Joints in parquet are nothing out of the ordinary and usually there is neither inferior material quality nor poorly executed laying work behind them. Nevertheless, parquet joints are often perceived as annoying. In the following article you can read why parquet joints are not bad in themselves and what you can use to fill joints in your parquet .

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

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What creates joints in the parquet?

The main cause of joints in the parquet is the natural swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the natural floor covering. Wood is a natural product that has hygroscopic properties.

This means, it binds water vapour from the air and releases it again, which changes both the wood moisture and the volume of the material depending on the room climate.

This behavior is called swelling and shrinkage – or colloquially formulated: The wood works.

The optimal conditions for parquet are at a room temperature of 20 to 22°C and a relative humidity of 55 to 60%.

In this indoor climate, professionally laid parquet hardly works and therefore has no joints.

Even if the annual average values are maintained, it is still inevitable that they will be exceeded in summer and undercut in winter. Because parquet always adapts to the ambient climate. The bonding of parquet with parquet adhesive can help a little. This somewhat reduces the swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Especially during the heating period, the air in heated rooms becomes drier, the moisture in the wood decreases, the parquet disappears and joints are created.

How pronounced these can be depends, among other things, on the type of laying: floating parquet works more strongly than glued parquet because the parquet panels only lie loosely on top of each other, whereas with full-surface gluing they are firmly connected to the subfloor.

However, the type of wood and the type of parquet also play a role: parquet made of beech or maple tends to have a higher swelling and shrinking behaviour than, for example, oak.

Are joints in the parquet a deficiency?

In general, joints in the parquet are quite their purpose in view of the inevitable source and shrinkage of the wood.

They give the parquet the necessary room for expansion without damaging the floor. However, a distinction must be made between intended and unintended joints.

By intentional joints are to be understood those joints, which were deliberately placed in order to achieve an optimal result in the laying of the parquet.

For example, when laying parquet in the edge areas or wherever the floor is applied to immovable elements such as doors, stair connections, heating pipes or heavy furniture, appropriate expansion joints must be taken into account in order to compensate for tensions of the parquet .

However, if joints occur between the individual parquet elements, these are often not wanted.

Nevertheless, these can hardly be completely avoided – especially with solid parquet there will always be fugue formation.

Accordingly, joints with a width of between 0.1 and 0.5 mm (for parquet on underfloor heating systems up to 0.8 mm) are considered perfectly normal.

If the joint width is between 0.5 and 1 mm, this can be considered a conspicuity, joints over 1 mm are ultimately outside the tolerance range.

However, it is always necessary to take into account the circumstances in which the joints occurred.

In most cases, a expert is consulted in these cases, who clarifies in an expert opinion whether the exceeding of the tolerance limit was caused by the laying work or by other influencing factors, such as lack of measures to control or regulate the air humidity or incorrect heating and ventilation behaviour.

The dimensional tolerances are regulated in the standards ATV DIN 18356 Parquet work and DIN 18202 Tolerances in building construction.

Should parquet joints be filled?

While expansion joints in the edge areas usually disappear behind skirting boards, joints remain visible on the surface of the parquet.

Older parquet, in particular, often has relatively large joints, which is due on the one hand to the previously usual laying distances and on the other hand to the factor time.

However, even relatively newly laid parquet can, for the reasons mentioned above, lead to more joints, especially in winter.

These can not only negatively affect the appearance of the parquet, but sometimes develop into dirt traps that are difficult to clean or – with the appropriate width – to annoying stumbling blocks.

It is therefore perfectly sensible to repair and fill parquet joints. If there are only small dents or scratches in the parquet, these can be repaired with a parquet repair set and melting wax.

Which parquet joint fillers are available?

For filling joints in the parquet floor, there are basically different options that are used depending on the joint width to be able to.

Fugue kitt for parquet

For narrow joints, fugue kit is a proven option. This can also be easily made from wood glue and sawdust itself by mixing both components into a tough mass.

The paste is then applied to the joints with a spatula and, after complete drying, sanded down with a sanding machine or sandpaper and resealed.

It is optimal if the joints are repaired within the scope of the parquet renovation.

The grinding dust caused by the grinding process is excellently suited for the production of joint putty and also has the same colour as the parquet.

Alternatively, special joint fillers in different colours can be purchased from specialist retailers. For example, joints can also be deliberately filled in a contrasting colour to give the parquet a new look.

As joint filler is relatively liquid, it is in principle only recommended for joints up to a maximum width of 5 mm, as it can otherwise run out of the joints.

Acrylic-based joint fillers

If wider joints are to be repaired, special acrylic-based joint fillers are the better choice. These are also available in different colour variants and remain permanently elastic even after filling the joints.

This preserves the necessary flexibility so that the parquet can continue to work.

In principle, these properties also apply to silicone. Acrylic joint fillers are still preferred.

This is because, in contrast to silicone joint sealing compound, acrylic joint sealing compound can also be sanded down and painted or oiled without any problems. Due to its brittle consistency, hard or melting wax is also recommended only for removing defects in hardwood flooring and not for filling joints.

In order to achieve an optimal result of the acrylic joint fillers, the joints should first be carefully cleaned.

In doing so, any remaining joint fillings must be removed completely and the joint must be made dust-free with a parquet vacuum cleaner.

In order to work cleanly, it is recommended to glue the edges of the joints with painter’s crepe. This gives the joints an exact closure and avoids unnecessary contamination of the parquet.

For the application of the joint filler, a cartridge press is best used, with which the joint mass is inserted into the joint up to about 1 – 2 mm via plank level, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If the joint filler is dry, this supernade can be cut off or sanded and the joint sealed. Care must be taken to ensure that the products used are compatible with the joint mass.

Filling joints with wooden strips

Regardless of the composition, joint fillers generally have a limited service life of around 10 years.

After that, the joints should be refilled. However, if you want to fill joints for longer, you can also repair them with wooden strips. However, this method involves significantly more work.

In the first step, the joints must be brought to the same width with a knife or planer. Afterwards, the cut and adapted wooden strips with wood glue and wooden hammer are inserted into the joint. Any supernatry is then sanded and the surface sealed.

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

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A floor is exposed to high loads every day. Due to its robust and resistant material properties, parquet is therefore one of the most popular floor coverings.

However, in order for your parquet to withstand these stresses over a long period of time, it needs the correct cleaning and care. In this article you will learn how to maintain the different types of parquet properly and what is important in this respect.

What is the surface of the parquet?

Its surface is decisive for the optimal cleaning and maintenance of parquet.

Various types of surface finishing protect parquet from dirt, moisture and wear.

Parquet can either be oiled or waxed or lacquered .

Depending on the method, the parquet has differences in its resistance and therefore requires different care.

For oiled or waxed parquet, the surface of the floor is protected by applying parquet oil or wax.

The natural raw materials do not form an additional layer on the parquet, but penetrate into the wood and the surface is impregnated.

This keeps the pores of the wood open and breathable, which largely preserves the naturalness of the parquet and has a positive effect on the room climate.

However, loads on oiled or waxed soils can act directly, increasing the need for care.

In the case of lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the surface is completely sealed by applying parquet lacquer.

The additional protective layer makes the floor more robust and resistant to stress and is easier to maintain compared to oiled or waxed floors.

Initial maintenance of parquet

If parquet has been newly laid or freshly sanded, an appropriate initial care is recommended for oiled surfaces.

For this purpose, the parquet is treated with special parquet care oils after careful cleaning from dust and dirt (office chair mats, carpets or similar must be removed beforehand).

These ensure that the wood pores open completely and tannic acid in the wood is neutralised, making the parquet less susceptible to stains and scratches.

In the case of painted parquet, initial maintenance is not necessary in principle. However, in order to make the floor even more robust and resistant, a special parquet Polish can still be applied to the surface.

Regular cleaning of parquet

The basis for a long beautiful looking and well-kept parquet is the regular cleaning, which is basically the same for all parquet surfaces.

Ideally, parquet parquet should be cleaned dry in the first place. To remove loose dust or dirt, it is best to use a broom or a dry cotton cloth. When cleaning with a vacuum cleaner, it is essential to ensure that it is equipped with a parquet-compatible brush , otherwise scratches can easily occur.

For more thorough cleaning, the parquet should be wiped moist regularly.

It is important that not too much water is used, but that the parquet is only cleaned damply .

Carefully wrensed wipe covers made of pure cotton are optimally suited – a slinging system or a wipe press prove to be very helpful.

For oiled parquet, a small amount of wood floor soap should be added to the mopping water.

Due to the regreasing ingredients contained therein, such as coconut or soy fats, not only coarser dirt can be removed more easily, but the parquet is also additionally maintained during every swipe process.

For wiping with wooden floor soap, besides a bucket with the soapy water, a second bucket with clear water should be ready by flushing out the dirt.

As an alternative to wood floor soap, a oil fresher can be used at regular intervals (approx. every fifth wipe) to refresh the protection of the initial care.

The moist cleaning of painted parquet basically works the same as with oiled parquet. Only special paint soap is used as a cleaning agent instead of the wood floor soap.

Refreshment of parquet care

Even with careful cleaning, the daily stress leaves traces on the parquet floor over time.

Whether oiled or sealed parquet – unsightly signs of wear or minor damage such as scratches or stains can not be completely avoided on any surface.

Depending on the intensity of the stress, intensive cleaning and a refreshof of the parquet care are therefore required sooner or later.

Oiled Maintaining parquet

In order to maintain the protective oil layer as long as possible, the oiled parquet should be thoroughly cleaned regularly with an intensive cleaner and a single disc machine with black pad.

The surface of the parquet is then refreshed with care oil. Parquet care oil is available in both natural and different shades.

By refreshing the oil treatment, the wood becomes saturated and dulled parquet looks as if freshly laid again. The maintenance of oiled parquet should be repeated in living spaces every 2 to 4 years, or more often in the case of heavy use.

Sealed Maintaining parquet

In order to slow down the abrasion of the paint layer by dirt and dust particles, a temporary refresh is also necessary for painted parquet.

For this purpose, the parquet is first thoroughly cleaned with a suitable intensive cleaner and then applied a layer of undiluted paint care. The special care products contain polymer dispersion that reduces abrasion, refreshes the floor and masks minor scratches.

Parquet Care against scratches and stains

One of the most important differences between oiled and painted parquet is the handling in case of damage.

For stubborn stains, undiluted special cleaners are used for oiled surfaces, for varnished floors there are special intensive cleaners or stain removers. Turpentine or methylated spirits are also very useful for stains on sealed parquet.

In the case of scratches in the parquet, the effort is greater with painted parquet.

While fine scratches or cracks in the lacquer can be repaired with special repair kits, deeper scratches or other major damage requires sanding and resealing the entire parquet surface.

In the case of oiled parquet, however, this is not necessary. Even larger scratches or other damage can be partially repaired with relatively little effort.

For this purpose, only the affected area is sanded and a new layer of oil is applied. Fine scratches can also be removed with care oils or furniture polish.

Care products for parquet: This is what matters

Care products for parquet are available from numerous manufacturers in a wide variety of designs in DIY stores and specialist retailers.

The most well-known brands include

  • Dr. Schutz
  • Poliboy
  • Tilo
  • Haro
  • Woca
  • u. from above

Which products is best suited for the respective parquet always depends on the coating used. When purchasing the care product, care must be taken to ensure that it is suitable for the respective parquet surface. In addition, the product should not contain silicone oils or mineral oil derivatives if possible.

Better are care products with water-soluble and regreasing polymers or waxes.

Decisive for the selection of the appropriate parquet care is always the manufacturer’s care instructions. In most cases, it also contains specific product recommendations or is their own product series from the manufacturer.

The best tips for protecting, care and cleaning Parquet

  • Protect the parquet against too much dirt by placing protective mats in front of the door and not entering the floor with street shoes. It is best to use slippers or walk barefoot.
  • In particular, sharp, hard objects, such as small stones and sand, or shoe heels can quickly damage the parquet. Therefore, coarse dirt should be removed as soon as possible.
  • Fasten felt gliders to furniture, armchairs and table legs or use suitable floor protection mats in places subject to heavy use, such as desks. This will prevent pressure marks or scratches.
  • In order to protect the parquet floor from water or too much moisture, you should preferably not place houseplants directly on the floor. Use waterproof pots or plant rollers instead.
  • A balanced indoor climate also protects the parquet floor. Therefore, make sure that a humidity between 35 and 45 % and a constant room temperature between 20 and 22°C.
  • It is best to clean your parquet mainly dry with a soft broom or a dry cotton cloth. If you are using a vacuum cleaner, make sure you have a parquet-compatible brush.
  • It is essential that you only wipe the parquet with a damp cloth – preferably with a lint-free cotton mop. If water puddles appear, they must be dried as quickly as possible so that the moisture cannot penetrate the wood.
  • Use only special cleaning and care products that are explicitly suitable for your parquet. This applies to regular cleaning as well as intensive cleaning and care.
  • When cleaning your parquet floor, completely avoid microfibre cloths and aggressive cleaners or abrasive cleaners. Also steam cleaners are rather not suitable for parquet and may – if at all – only be used for fully glued, hard sealed parquet.
  • Get expert advice about the special requirements of your hardwood flooring in terms of cleaning and care. In addition, it is essential that you follow the care instructions of the manufacturer and keep the instructions of your parquet manufacturer carefully.

The full-surface gluing of parquet forms the basis for a stable and durable floor, because the fixed connection with the subfloor provides significant advantages.

However, gluing hardwood flooring involves considerable effort. What is important when gluing parquet and which parquet adhesive is the right one, you will learn in this article.

Parquet adhesive recommendations from this article:

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What are the advantages of sticking parquet?

In recent years, the parquet floor seems to have lost some of its importance.

Because many house and apartment owners prefer the floating installation of modern pre-finished parquet, which is faster and less complicated and also usually more cost-effective.

However, if you want to benefit from the advantages of a high-quality and stable floor in the long term, you should still stick the parquet.

Because the gluing of parquet has some decisive advantages:

Due to the fixed connection, parquet adheres firmly to the subfloor for decades, which also makes it easier to sand down and renovate more than once.

Furthermore, glued parquet is also quieter:

impact sound and other noises when using the floor are transmitted less.

Another decisive advantage over floating installation is particularly relevant for parquet on underfloor heating systems:

the gluing process does not create air cushions between the parquet and the subfloor, which improves the thermal conductivity It should be noted, however, that glued parquet cannot be removed so easily if the floor is to be replaced at some point.

What parquet adhesives are there?

The right parquet adhesive is of course decisive for an optimum result when laying glued parquet.

Not every glue is equally suitable for every type of parquet. When purchasing the parquet adhesive, therefore, it is first and foremost important to ensure that the product is matched to both the substrate and the parquet floor to be used.

Manufacturer’s instructions and installation instructions provide important information about this and should therefore be closely monitored.

Due to the continuous development of the adhesive industry, parquet adhesives have improved in recent years.

Most of the products available in specialist shops have not only become more user-friendly in handling and higher quality in terms of adhesion, but also pass the eco-test .

While until a few years ago the proportion of solvents and other controversial ingredients in many parquet adhesives was still very high, there are now a number of ecological products that are equally harmless to humans and the environment.

Well-known manufacturers of parquet adhesives, who are also test winners in various independent product comparisons, are, for example:

  • Retol
  • Ponal
  • Brücol
  • Wakol
  • Sika
  • Stauf
  • Haro
  • Uzin
  • Ardex
  • Schönox
  • Bona
  • Bostik
  • Thomsit
  • u. from above

In general, a distinction can be made between the following parquet adhesives Be:

Silane-based adhesives

The most modern type of parquet adhesives are hybrid adhesives made of MS polymer (modified silane). They are free of solvents, water and isocyanate and are also weather and UV resistant.

This is why they are becoming more and more important and are increasingly replacing solvent adhesives, which are now banned. Silane parquet adhesives are distinguished above all by the fact that they remain permanently elastic after curing and offer the parquet a corresponding scope for swelling and shrinkage. This is why MS parquet adhesives are also universally applicable and suitable for gluing almost all parquet types as well as for use on underfloor heating systems.

Reaction resin adhesives

Reaction resin adhesives also belong to the universally applicable parquet adhesives. These are available both as 1-component PUR adhesives and as 2-component PUR adhesives. While 1-component parquet adhesives remain elastic after curing and are therefore also suitable for bonding stress-bearing parquet, 2-component PUR adhesives cure inelastically and are therefore mainly recommended for shear-resistant parquet laying.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion parquet adhesives are also still widely used – especially for the shear-resistant bonding of solid parquet, as they do not give the floor any more room to move after curing. They are mainly water-based and use little or no solvents. However, dispersion adhesives are not quite so easy to use. When laying the parquet, for example, a certain time window must be observed in which the adhesive shows its optimum adhesive properties. It should also be noted that the water content in the adhesive may possibly lead to increased swelling of the parquet.

Powder adhesives

These parquet adhesives consisting of plastic powder or plaster or cement as well as various fillers are also solvent-free adhesives. The powder to be mixed with water is suitable for the laying of low-stress parquet types such as mosaic or multi-layer finished parquet.

Parquet glue with solvents

In addition to the above-mentioned modern parquet adhesives without solvents, there are also some solvent-based products on the market. However, these should – if at all – only be used in individual exceptional cases. In principle, the use of such parquet adhesives is not recommended.

Beware of old parquet adhesives!

Particular care should be taken with older parquet, as the parquet adhesives used at the time may contain harmful ingredients.

Until the 1970s, for example, black parquet adhesive made of coal tar was frequently used , which can contain demonstrably carcinogenic substances such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) or polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).

Parquet glued in this way can be dangerous, for example because of a defective sealant:

Because the harmful substances contained therein, such as benzo(a)pyrene, enter the room air via fine cracks in the parquet surface and bind to dust.

However, it is not immediately necessary to remove the floor if there is black glue under the parquet.

However, regular and careful inspection of the parquet surface and a dust test should be carried out to prevent the release of the substance.

However, if you want to be on the safe side, not only must the parquet be completely removed, but also the screed underneath must be chiseled out completely, since abrasive of the black adhesive is not possible due to the dust formation.

In addition to PAH and PCBs, old parquet adhesives may also contain asbestos, which can be released, in particular by demolition or grinding work. Renovation of hardwood flooring with asbestos-containing adhesive should therefore only be carried out by specialist companies, which have been trained accordingly in handling harmful substances.

Gluing parquet: That’s what matters

The basic requirements for gluing parquet are a dry, clean and even substrate as well as optimum room conditions with a temperature of at least 16°C and 40 to 60% humidity.

Before actually starting to glue the parquet, the first three rows of the parquet should first be fitted without parquet adhesive.

In this way, the individual elements can be cut to size and any changes made to the direction of installation.

It is also advisable to become familiar with the application of the parquet adhesive before on a chipboard. In principle, modern parquet adhesives are easy to apply, but handling the putty requires a little practice.

When the parquet is bonded, step by step should be taken.

Since most parquet adhesives have a certain processing time (usually about 30 minutes) in which they have the optimum adhesive strength, only the section should be coated with adhesive on which parquet can also be laid during this time.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the adhesive will decrease and the parquet adhesive will have to be removed again.

What is the best way to apply parquet adhesive?

The parquet adhesive is applied fully and evenly to the respective floor section.

Applying the parquet adhesive works best with a serrated trowel with triangular teeth. Which serration the trowel should have depends on the type of parquet adhesive and the parquet to be laid.

The required thickness of the parquet adhesive and the recommended trowel notch size is normally indicated in the adhesive application instructions.

In addition, there are also generally valid recommendations as to which tooth fillers should be used for the different types of parquet.

These are as follows:

B3: Mosaic parquet, 8 mm parquet

B5: 2-layer parquet up to 60 cm length, Lamparkett

B9: Finished parquet, 10-mm parquet, multi-layer parquet

B11: strip parquet up to 120 cm long, multi-layer parquet up to 60 cm long

B12: Boarded parquet, planks up to 60 cm, multi-layer parquet over 60 cm long

B15: Wooden paving, solid floorboards from 120 cm length and 12 cm width

How much parquet glue is needed?

To calculate the consumption of parquet adhesive, the common recommendation is to calculate with 1.2 kg per square metre.

However, the exact consumption can vary considerably depending on the product and type of parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the thickness of the parquet adhesive to be applied should be checked before purchase.

A further calculation basis is to multiply the order quantity of the tooth filler by the number of square meters of the parquet to be laid.

How much do parquet adhesives cost?

Actual costs for the calculated amount of parquet adhesive also depend on the respective product. For example, low-cost dispersion adhesives are available for as low as 3.50 euros per kilo, synthetic resin adhesives cost an average of around 7 euros per kilo, while high-quality parquet adhesives made of reaction resin cost more than 10 euros per kilo.

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Remove parquet glue

If parquet is laid glued, sooner or later it is also the removal of the parquet adhesive. How much effort is involved depends on the parquet adhesive used and the type of parquet.

In order to remove smaller adhesive residues from the freshly laid parquet, simple cleaning cloths with a small amount of solvents are usually sufficient.

Alternatively, the residues – possibly previously warmed with a hair dryer – can also be treated with conventional cooking oil.

Furniture polish, erasers made of natural rubber or pure orange oil can also help, as can special adhesive removers, brake cleaners, acetone or spirits.

Larger quantities of parquet adhesivecan to be sanded with a grinding machine. It is important to remove the excess parquet adhesive as soon as possible during installation, because after a maximum of 12 hours most adhesives are completely cured.

However, if full-surface adhesive residues are to be removed after the removal of glued parquet, the procedure is much more complex.

Parquet lacquer effectively equips the parquet for the daily influences. The parquet surface is sealed by the applied lacquer layer and receives the necessary protection. What is important when lacquering parquet, what types and manufacturers of parquet lacquer there are and what needs to be taken into account when sealing parquet can be found in the following guide.

Recommended parquet sealants from this article:

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What is painted parquet?

In order for parquet to receive the necessary protection against external influences, a corresponding surface finish is required.

It makes the wooden floor more resistant and robust, protects it from dirt, moisture or wear and tear and also gives the parquet the final touch to its appearance.

Parquet can either be finished with oil, wax or lacquer – which method is best depends on the degree of wear and tear and the personal demands on the parquet.

Pros and cons of lacquered parquet

In contrast to the refinement with oil or wax, which merely impregnates the parquet surface, the wood is fully sealed with parquet lacquer full surface .

The applied lacquer forms an additional protective layer on the parquet floor, which effectively protects the floor from dirt, abrasion and moisture.

Accordingly, painted parquet is considered to be more robust than oiled parquet.

Also with regard to parquet cleaning and parquet care, sealed parquet scores higher than impregnated parquet.

The painted surface is generally easier to clean and requires less post-treatment.

However, damage to the parquet varnish due to the full-surface sealing is not so easy to repair.

In contrast to oiled parquet, it is more often necessary to sand down the parquet and re-varnish it.

In addition, some of the naturalness of the floor is lost due to the parquet lacquer: the painted protective layer closes the pores of the wood and – unlike with oiled parquet – can no longer “breathe”.

In terms of the indoor climate, an oiled floor sometimes proves to be more advantageous, but the pleasant living atmosphere is maintained even with painted parquet.

What types of parquet lacquer are there?

Whereas parquet varnish used to have the reputation of being highly solvent-containing and therefore harmful to health and the environment, this is no longer the case today with parquet sealants not anymore.

Most modern parquet lacquers are water-based with a very low solvent content of up to 15%.

The term water-based paint refers to the high water content of around 55 to 70 % in which the paint components are dissolved.

Water-based parquet varnish means, however, that the varnish is water-soluble or that the parquet sealant reacts more sensitively to water.

Water varnishes are also particularly recommended because they are easy to process and apply and also have a very high resistance to abrasion and chemicals.

According to the composition and protection intensity, the water-based parquet lacquers as follows:

1-component parquet lacquer

Conventional 1-component parquet lacquer usually consists of plastic (acrylate) or synthetic resin dispersion. The 1K parquet sealant offers the floor a solid basic protection. However, acrylates can become brittle and, especially in places exposed to strong light or permanent water exposure, they can flake off or crack after a few years.

2-component parquet lacquer

Parquet varnish of the 2-component sealing is additionally enriched with a so-called hardening component before application, which reacts chemically with the varnish. By curing the two components, the parquet sealant becomes considerably more resistant and more robust against abrasion or scratches. However, 2K lacquer not only offers higher quality protection, but also hardens more quickly, which means that the parquet can be walked on earlier.

3-component parquet lacquer

In addition to parquet varnish and hardness components, a 3-component parquet sealant also contains additional UV protection, which protects the parquet from UVA radiation – similar to the principle of a sun cream. This prevents the parquet from yellowing or darkening excessively, which is why 3K Parquet Varnish is particularly recommended for light floors.

Alternative parquet seals

Also as 1K and 2K parquet lacquers, lacquers are polyurethane base. These are also referred to as pur or DD coatings However, seals are highly solvent-containing and lose less harmful water-based parquet lacquers. The previously widely used oil-resin parquet sealing: these too oil-based method was characterized by the high proportion of solvents have now been completely replaced by water paints.

How does parquet sealing work?

No matter which parquet lacquer is used – the sealing works for all by evaporation of the ingredients in different order.

In the case of water varnishes, first the water and then the binder evaporates, creating the paint layer. In polyurethane parquet coatings, the protective layer is formed by evaporation of the solvents and chemical reaction of the residual synthetic resins, which is sometimes associated with a biting smell that evaporates only slowly.

Shiny or matte?

Compared to oil, varnish offers a slightly different design leeway in terms of the appearance of the parquet.

Because parquet lacquer is hardly coloured, only occasionally manufacturers offer parquet lacquer in white.

However, you can vary how shiny the parquet should be: Most parquet lacquers are available in matt, silk matt or high gloss. However, if the floor is to be changed in colour, e.g. to refresh old parquet that has yellowed , the parquet must first be stained with stain or oil coloured . Only then can it be sealed with parquet lacquer.

Best parquet lacquer: This is what matters

The differences between the individual products lie in their exact composition, the intensity of protection and of course the price. Accordingly, the area of application also plays a role when it comes to buying the suitable parquet lacquer.

The cheapest variant is 1K parquet lacquer. They are easy to apply and provide adequate protection for low-stress parquet against damage. However, they are limited in their service life and are therefore not particularly suitable for rooms with high stress, exposure to water or solar radiation.

Due to the faster hardening and higher resistance to scratches, 2K parquet lacquers are optimally suited for hardwood flooring subject to average wear and tear, such as in living rooms.

The higher costs are compensated for by the longer service life and better protection.

For rooms with high solar radiation and heavy use as well as for stairs, high-quality stair and parquet lacquer on a 3-component basis should be used. Although this is relatively expensive, it not only protects the parquet from yellowing or darkening, but also constantly withstands the constant loads, e.g. from climbing stairs.

Buy parquet lacquer – Manufacturer at a glance

Well-known manufacturers of parquet lacquers, which are also used in various tests with a good price-performance ratio, are Such as:

  • Bona
  • Highlight
  • Remmers
  • Wilckens
  • Renovo
  • Loba
  • Pallmann
  • Baufix
  • Zweihorn
  • Brillux
  • u. from above

How much parquet varnish is required for the sealing depends on the parquet or wood species in question.

More varnish must be applied for parquet made of raw wood than on a floor with a primer.

Even hard wood types require less parquet lacquer than soft wood, as it sucks more strongly.

In principle, a guideline value of approx. 1.2 litres of parquet lacquer for 10 m2 parquet per lacquer layer applies. However, in order to ensure optimum protection, the parquet varnish should not only be applied once, but ideally three times.

It should be noted that the parquet lacquer represents only a small part of the total cost of the parquet sealing.

The major part of the price for parquet sealing – provided it is carried out by a specialist – is accounted for by the working time which is incurred due to the necessary sanding of the parquet.

Saving on parquet varnish therefore makes relatively little sense – above all, because products of lower quality increase the risk that the protective layer will wear out or be worn out more quickly, making it necessary to apply a new parquet sealant earlier.

Parquet painting: step by step

In the course of a renovation, a new layer of parquet varnish will bring out the full splendour of the wooden floor. It may also be necessary to apply parquet varnish when laying a new floor. It is essential to ensure that the parquet adhesive is fully cured beforehand.

Varnishing hardwood flooring is certainly a demanding task, but with a little practice and skill it can also be carried out by do-it-yourselfers themselves.

For an optimal result of the parquet sealing, following instructions should be followed.

Preparation: Grinding and cleaning the parquet

Before the parquet can be repainted, it must be completely sanded.

Prior to this, furniture and skirting boards must be removed from the room so that the entire surface can be worked on unhindered.

When sanding the parquet, care must be taken to ensure a uniform and careful procedure – the surface should be sanded down to the raw wood. Smaller dents can be repaired with parquet joint filler or with a parquet repair kit.

Then the fine dust that has accumulated must be thoroughly removed from all surfaces – preferably with a vacuum cleaner or broom.

The parquet must be completely free of dust particles.

The sanding dust can, however, be used to repair scratches or joints in the hardwood flooring: To do this, simply mix the dust with joint cement to a mushy mass, fill in any damage, allow to dry and then treat with a sanding machine or sandpaper until no more joint cement is visible.

2. Apply the primer

A parquet primer must first be applied to the sanded raw wood.

For this purpose, the parquet lacquer is carefully stirred and applied uniformly and systematically with a roll on the parquet.

When applying the parquet lacquer, direct sunlight should generally be avoided and the room temperature should be between 18 and 25 degrees.

In order not to obstruct the work process, it is best to start in the rear part of the room opposite the exit and work in even sections of about 2 m to the door.

In order to create a smooth and even coating layer, the primer is distributed once against the laying direction on the parquet and the same section without additional absorption of parquet varnish is coated again in the direction of the boards (so-called “finishing”) .

The individual sections should overlap slightly. Beware of lug marks when starting and stopping the roll!

If the entire floor surface is painted, the primer must first dry for about 2 to 3 hours. Now you can start applying the paint layers.

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3. Apply parquet varnish in several layers

The procedure is the same as the one used in the primer. When applying the paint, it should be done quickly so that the paint cannot dry too quickly.

Two coats of lacquer are sufficient for hardwood flooring subjected to average wear and tear, while for more heavily used areas three coats of parquet lacquer should be applied to provide additional protection. The parquet should also be sanded before each subsequent coat of lacquer if it has been dried for more than 24 hours. On this point, however, the manufacturer’s instructions must be observed and are binding for every seal.

When can the furniture be repositioned after painting the parquet?

After a drying phase of the parquet varnish of approx. 8 hours, the floor can be walked on again, furniture can be set up after 24 hours. The parquet lacquer is completely hardened after approx. one week – solid furniture or carpets should therefore be waited until then. You should wait up to 14 days before applying carpets or office chair pads.

As a natural floor covering made of wood, parquet has many advantages. However, its naturalness also has an effect in that the parquet works. So in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and intact parquet floor in the long term, expansion joints must be taken into account. In the following you will find out how to proceed best in this respect when laying parquet parquet .

Elongation joints at parquet – why?

Parquet is made of wood and wood works.

In the event of temperature fluctuations or changes in humidity, parquet reacts accordingly with swells and dwindling. This means that it expands depending on the room conditions and pulls back together.

In order to give the parquet the necessary leeway, expansion joints must be observed as soon as they are laid, as they compensate for the spring and shrinkage behaviour of the parquet.

In addition, appropriate expansion joints ensure reduced sound transmission and therefore additionally optimise the result of the required impact sound insulation.

Where do you need expansion joints for parquet?

In the first place, expansion joints must be taken into account when laying parquet in the edge areas of the room.

The basic rule is a wall distance of at least 2 mm per metre of floor – so if the room is 4 m wide, 8 mm expansion joint is required.

With the usually recommended distance of 10 to 15 mm one is on the safe side in rooms of average size, in very large rooms the expansion joint should be correspondingly wider.

From a room dimension of 8 m width and 12 m length, an additional expansion joint is required by leaving out a gap between the parquet elements.

If an elongation joint is already included in the screed, one must also be inserted in the same place in the parquet.

It is well known that parquet all around requires expansion joints on the walls.

However, expansion joints for parquet must be taken into account not only where, but also in other places, where the floor can encounter immovable elements.

These include door frames, stairs, radiator pipes, end profiles e.g. for transitions to other floor coverings and much more.

In the case of heavy furniture, such as kitchens or built-in cupboards, it is advisable to install them before laying the hardwood flooring and then take into account the corresponding expansion joint under the plinth.

If this is not possible, the hardwood flooring under the built-in furniture on the other side requires twice the distance to the wall, as it can only work in one direction.

Is there a difference between bonded and floating laid parquet?

Expansion joints are always necessary for all hardwood flooring, regardless of whether it is glued over the entire surface or installed as a floating installation.

The difference, however, is that glued parquet works less, as it is fixed to the subfloor.

The smallest extent occurs with glued floorparquet, as it is not only connected to the screed, but the material is also glued transversely to each other.

Correspondingly, the expansion joints may be smaller when the parquet is glued, depending on the recommended manufacturer’s instructions. Even with head joints, less distance is sufficient, as the hardwood flooring unfolds its greatest expansion in width here.

Different, on the other hand, with floating parquet. Here, the parquet panels are only loosely laid on the substrate and accordingly have high spring and shrinkage behaviour.

Therefore, in this case, it is strongly advisable to maintain a greater distance in the expansion joints.

What happens if parquet has no expansion joints?

If parquet is laid without paying attention to the correspondingly large expansion joints, the wood cannot work sufficiently.

The parquet panels collide when they are expanded or stand by fixed room elements and begin to bulge.

This not only looks ugly, but can even lead to permanent damage to the parquet.

For example, when individual parquet panels break out of the gluing or the click system breaks.

Floating parquet can still bulge even if the ground is only on one side.

If no expansion joints have been adhered to as part of the parquet laying, you can also install them afterwards.

This involves a certain amount of effort, but it is always worthwhile compared to the inconvenience of a damaged parquet.

Tips for erecting expansion joints

Observance of expansion joints is particularly challenging for laymen.

The use of spacers, which are placed between the wall and the parquet when laying and removed after the laying work has been completed, has therefore proved to be successful.

This ensures that a uniform expansion joint is maintained. In commercially available laying sets for parquet, such wedges or blocks are usually already included or can be retrofitted in the DIY store.

For protection – and of course also because of the more attractive appearance – the expansion joints can be covered accordingly at the end: With skirting boards in the wall areas, rails or profiles at transitions or doors or pipe rosettes or similar covers for heating pipes etc.

Of course, expansion joints can also be filled with joint sealing compound. Here, however, it is essential to ensure that it is a suitable, permanently elastic material, otherwise the parquet will not be able to work.

Recommended repair sets in this article:

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Even the most robust parquet is not immune to damage.

Daily wear and tear or minor mishaps can quickly cause scratches, holes or dents in the parquet. Learn in this article how to best repair various damage in the parquet.

One of the great advantages of parquet is its durability and durability.

Nevertheless parquet is not indestructible. However, minor damage to hardwood flooring is usually relatively easy to repair without having to renovate the entire floor. How best to repair defects in hardwood flooring, depends on the type of damage.

Remove scratches in the parquet

Scratches in hardwood flooring are only an optical defect with waxed or oiled floors.

With lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the damaged surface sealant can cause damage in the long term if dirt or moisture penetrates under the protective layer.

To eliminate scratches in the parquet, there are various possibilities that achieve very good results depending on the depth of the scratches.

Superficial scratches or sanding marks in the parquet can be removed in most cases by polishing.

This method works for oiled or waxed parquet as well as for painted parquet.

For this purpose, furniture polish or repair wax or oil is applied to a soft, lint-free cloth and the scratch is rubbed in until it has disappeared.

However, it is important to note the material compatibility with the parquet, as the damaged areas can otherwise discolor when the agent penetrates into the wood.

Especially with painted parquet, the damaged area can also be easily sanded and then provided with a new layer of diluted lacquer. However, it will hardly be possible to repair the paint without transitions, which can be seen more or less depending on the light incidence.

Even with a walnut slight scratches in the parquet can be treated well. By rubbing the nut kernel into the surface, the scratch does not disappear completely, but it becomes much less visible. Suitable parquet maintenance also helps against small scratches in the floor.

In addition, there are also special Retouching pins in different colours, with which the scratches in the parquet can be concealed.

Repairing deep scratches and holes in the parquet

Major damage in the parquet, such as deep scratches or holes, can be easily filled with wooden putty.

To do this, the parquet must first be thoroughly cleaned with a parquet vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

In particular, the damaged site must be clean and completely dry before repair can begin. Subsequently, the wood putty is mixed accordingly, applied to the scratch or hole with a plastic spatula in several layers and smooth coated.

For an optimal colour result, sawdust matched to the parquet floor can be added to the wood putty. Once the wood putty is completely dried – the drying time is between 12 and 24 hours, depending on the product – the repaired area is sanded with sandpaper until the surface is as much as possible aligned with the rest of the parquet.

Eliminate damage in the parquet with repair kit

For deeper scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet, special parquet repair kits are also a good alternative.

These are available in different versions and price categories in DIY stores or specialist retailers.

The most significant difference with repair sets is the melting wax contained in them.

While the cheaper variants usually contain relatively soft melting wax, which deforms even at low temperatures – such as sunlight – , more expensive repair kits contain high-quality hard wax and are also available in numerous colour shades.

For such a professional parquet repair set, you can expect costs of about 100,- Euro. An investment that is, however, definitely worthwhile in view of the result.

To repair the damage in the parquet, the hard wax of the parquet repair set is heated and the scratch or hole is filled with it.

In order to get as close as possible to the wood structure, hard wax should be used in various shades of colour.

With some repair kits, the wax can also be mixed with a wood paste until the colour tone corresponds as closely as possible to that of the parquet. Scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet can then be filled with this compound. However, the wax is not suitable for filling joints in hardwood flooring. This is because the material is brittle and therefore unsuitable.

Remaining wax residues can then be removed with a plastic spatula or a plastic card. Finally, the repaired area is cleaned with a dry, soft cloth and re-treated with care products suitable for the respective parquet (polish, oil, sealing varnish).

Repair kits for parquet only achieve an optimal result if the damage in the floor is deep enough.

Because only if the macke in the parquet is correspondingly large, the filling with the hard wax gets the necessary support.

If the damage is too slight, it should therefore be extended accordingly with a cutter or similar tool if a repair set is used.

Remove dents in the parquet

If the parquet has a dent, it is sometimes sufficient to moisten it.

Due to the moisture, the parquet swells slightly and the dent is removed.

With more stubborn dents, the iron can also help: Simply place a damp cloth on the appropriate place and gently slide over it with the hot iron.

Thus, the moisture from the hot water vapor can penetrate even better into the wood, the parquet expands and the dent disappears again.

However, this method requires very careful handling to prevent the parquet from swelling too much due to excessive moisture.

In addition, especially in the case of lacquered hardwood flooring, you should test in advance on an inconspicuous spot whether the lacquer can withstand the high temperatures of the iron without damage.

If the dents have been caused by water damage, the dents are Repair, however, is not so easy. In this case, the special procedures for the elimination of water damage.

Partially replace the parquet

If a damage cannot be repaired by the various repair methods, hardwood flooring also offers the possibility of replacing individual elements. To do this, the damaged parquet is either cut out with a chisel, for example, or a single plank is removed and replaced with a suitably adapted, new element.

Partial replacement of parquet is particularly advantageous if there is loose parquet, for example because the parquet adhesive has come loose or the click system is damaged.

Grinding the parquet

In the case of extensive or more serious damage, it may be necessary to sand down the parquet in the course of repair.

With the exception of untreated parquet, this is also partially possible in most cases. However, it should be borne in mind that the sanded area will always differ from the rest of the floor, as the parquet changes its color over time.

Corresponding color differences between repaired and original parquet should therefore be compensated so that the repair is as little visible as possible.

This is often possible by treating the surface with polish, oil or sealing wax. However, if this is not the case, the entire parquet floor must ultimately be sanded down. In places subject to heavy loads, e.g. in offices under the desk, you should always use a floor protection mat.

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In order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and well-kept hardwood flooring for as long as possible, regular cleaning and care is essential.

For dry cleaning of hardwood flooring, vacuum cleaners are the ideal tool.

You can find out what is important for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet and which products are available on the market in this article.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (with cable):

Dry clean parquet: Vacuum cleaner vs. breviews

Parquet is robust and easy to care for – but it is still not possible without regular cleaning.

For the daily removal of superficial dirt, dry cleaning is usually sufficient. Best with a vacuum cleaner.

Because of the material condition of the parquet, dust and dirt do not stick to the surface, but lie only loosely on top.

While the dust is partly only stirred up by sweeping with a broom, in order to settle again throughout the room, dust and dirt particles are removed more thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner.

However, there are a few things to consider when using vacuum cleaners for parquet.

Best vacuum cleaner for parquet: criteria and Requirements

The range of vacuum cleaners for parquet is varied – numerous manufacturers offer a wide variety of models in all price ranges.

Among the most well-known and popular vacuum cleaner manufacturers are:

  • Dyson
  • Miele
  • Bosch
  • Siemens
  • Philips
  • Rowenta
  • Aeg
  • and many more

In order to facilitate the decision, it is advisable to to pay attention to different characteristics from the trade mark:

Suction

An essential criterion in the search for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet is its suction power.

On the one hand, a high suction effect reduces the time required for cleaning, as the dust is already sucked in from a greater distance and even larger dirt particles, such as stones or crumbs, disappear quickly and reliably in the vacuum cleaner.

On the other hand, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power is also more versatile and is therefore also suitable for use on tiles and carpet in addition to parquet. In addition, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power also reduces the risk of dirt getting caught in the brush and causing scratches in the hardwood flooring.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (without cable):

Floor nozzle

The use of a suitable nozzle is essential for a gentle suction process on parquet.

This should be geared to the texture of the parquet and have a dense, soft brush that glides easily and without loss of suction force over the parquet. Commercially available vacuum cleaners are usually equipped with a universal nozzle, in which the brush can be folded in or out depending on the floor covering.

These have the advantage that they can be used for vacuuming both parquet and tiles or carpets.

In some cases, special parquet nozzles are also available for the vacuum cleaner, which have been specially adapted to the requirements of hardwood flooring and have a soft, large-area insert (e.g. made of felt or natural hair). However, these are rarely included in the scope of delivery of the vacuum cleaner, but can be retrofitted in addition to the normal nozzle.

Wheels

Most vacuum cleaners have wheels that pull them through the room. If these wheels block, e.g. by a wedged stone, scratches or scratches can occur in the parquet. Therefore, when purchasing a vacuum cleaner for parquet, attention should be paid to the quality of the wheels, axles and bearings.

Rubber wheels are gentler for the parquet and leave fewer traces than plastic wheels. In addition, the wheels should have as large a diameter as possible and be easily pulled by manoeuvrable joints.

Weight

Basically, the weight of the vacuum cleaner for parquet is rather incidental – much more important is the quality and the execution of the wheels. However, when vacuuming on multiple floors or stairs, the weight can affect ease of use.

Volume

Even the volume of the vacuum cleaner hardly affects whether the vacuum cleaner is suitable for parquet. In view of the fact that however, it makes it possible for the user to there is quite a difference in the noise he makes when vacuuming parquet exposed.

Different types of vacuum cleaners for parquet

Whether floor vacuum cleaners, hand vacuum cleaners or vacuum cleaners, whether Cable or battery, with bag or without – in principle there is for every type of vacuum cleaner Models suitable for parquet.

Vacuum cleaner

The classic among vacuum cleaners for parquet scores points with its consistently high suction force. Strong motors ensure that dust and Dirt reliably disappear. Floor vacuum cleaners are available with different technologies:

With conventional floor vacuum cleaners – such as the Bosch BGL35MON13, the Siemens VS06B1110 or the Miele S 8340 PowerLine – the dirt is sucked into a bag that needs to be replaced regularly.

In contrast, bagless cyclone vacuum cleaners – such as the Philips FC9332/09 PowerPro Compact or the Dyson Big Ball Parquet 2 – transport dust and dirt particles directly into the collecting container through air and rotation.

This eliminates follow-up costs for new vacuum cleaner bags and also reduces the loss of suction power.

Alternatively, vacuum cleaners for parquet are also available, which by the use of water filters for a dust-free exhaust air during the suction process example of this is the Kärcher DS 6.

Hand vacuum cleaner

Wireless cordless vacuum cleaners – such as the Dyson V11 absolute – rely on space-saving compactness – suction tube and motor form a unit, there is no housing that needs to be pulled behind. In addition, they can be used flexibly, as they do not need to be connected to the power supply. To the face of the battery life limited operating time and the heavier weight that is dust ing in your hand.

Suction robots

vacuum cleaners robots are particularly convenient because they vacuum the parquet floor independently. However, the purchase costs are also much higher than for conventional vacuum cleaners for hardwood flooring.

Which product is ultimately most convincing often depends on your personal preferences. Because every vacuum cleaner for parquet has its advantages and disadvantages, as can be seen from various product tests and comparisons.

Tips and tricks for vacuuming parquet

  • Choose a vacuum cleaner for parquet that best meets your requirements. If you have parquet floors and tiles or parquet and carpet in your home, the vacuum cleaner should be as universally usable as possible.
  • Use only a floor nozzle that is suitable for use on parquet.
  • When sucking parquet, be sure to fold out the brush with a universal nozzle. This way, you not only prevent scratches, but also the dust is sucked in directly and not – as would be the case with a flattened nozzle – just pushed over the ground.
  • Make sure that the nozzle does not bend and that there is no coarse dirt (e.g. stones or sand) in the brush that could scratch the parquet.
  • Check the wheels of the parquet vacuum cleaner regularly for their functionality before suction. Dirt should always be removed immediately to avoid streaks or damage in the parquet.
  • Avoid the vacuum cleaner tipping over on the parquet floor – it not only interferes with the operation, but can also lead to damage.
  • Always remove desk chair pads and carpets before vacuuming. In the peripheral areas of these, dirt often accumulates that would otherwise not be removed properly.
  • For floor vacuum cleaners that need to be plugged into the power outlet, make sure that they have a sufficiently long cable or are replugged accordingly. This not only facilitates vacuuming, but also prevents the vacuum cleaner from being pushed sideways over the parquet floor, leaving traces on the parquet floor.
  • For cordless vacuum cleaners for parquet, keep in mind that the device must be charged continuously to be ready for use at all times.

Steam cleaners have increasingly established themselves in recent years as an alternative to wiper mop and buckets in households.

Due to the power of steam, even stubborn dirt can be effectively removed without additional cleaning agents. But are steam cleaners also suitable for use on parquet?

The answer is basically yes – but not for every parquet.

Recommended products from this article:

For which parquet are steam cleaners suitable?

Steam cleaners may only be used on fully bonded, hard-sealed parquet surfaces – for all other types of parquet, steam cleaners not suitable.

With unsealed, but also oiled or waxed parquet the surface remains open-pored, so that the moisture of the steam would penetrate into the floor and cause permanent damage to the parquet.

The natural wood floor reacts to excessive contact with water with increased swelling behaviour – due to the moisture content during steam cleaning, this would sooner or later result in unattractive dents or bulges.

What should be considered when cleaning the steam of parquet floors?

But even with sealed or varnished parquet care must be taken when using steam cleaners:

It is important that the surface is fully intact and does not have any damage that could penetrate moisture. Therefore, before steam cleaning, the parquet should be thoroughly applied to cracks or scratches can be checked.

Before steam cleaning is started, the parquet should be carefully vacuumed with a vacuum cleaner, as coarser dirt and dust particles can cause scratches in the surface.

The lowest amount of steam and the lowest pressure should be set on the steam cleaner for the cleaning of parquet , in order to be able to wipe only with a damp cloth.

Therefore, only devices that can be regulated continuously or those that are clearly declared by the manufacturer as suitable for wooden floors are recommended. Steam cleaners without regulation possibilities are not recommended for hardwood flooring.

The cleaning process itself should be carried out as quickly and evenly as possible.

In order to keep the water film on the parquet as low as possible, it is best to use multilayer wipe covers.

Pausing too long in one place is best avoided. If, however, there is increased moisture, it is necessary to dry the parquet with a dry cloth.

A slight residual moisture, on the other hand, dries up by itself and leaves no streaks or streaks on the parquet floor due to the elimination of cleaning agent residues during steam cleaning.

An even, firm and dry screed is an absolute requirement for the professional laying of parquet and a durable, high-quality floor. In this article you will learn what is important for the professional installation of the subfloor and how long screed for parquet must dry.

Testing of the subsoil

In principle, it is possible to lay parquet on various floors (also existing floor coverings such as PVC, felt or stone) provided they are flat, firm and dry.

The corresponding requirements for the substrate are precisely defined in DIN 18365 for floor covering work and DIN 18356 for parquet work.

If parquet is laid by a specialist, it is subject to a test obligation in accordance with these standards.

Should parquet be inserted on a newly built screed important aspects need to be taken into account in order to meet the conditions for a successful installation.

Flatness

Only a flat surface ensures an optimal result when laying the parquet floor.

Therefore, the flatness of the screed should be checked. This works best with a straight object, such as a straightening bar, a measuring wedge, or a water scale.

If the subfloor does not comply with the standard, the screed must be repaired accordingly before laying parquet.

Strength

In order for the underbody to achieve the necessary level of load-bearing capacity, it must have the appropriate strength.

In particular for the full-surface bonding of parquet using parquet adhesive, a solid screed is the decisive criterion for proper installation.

The condition of the substrate is checked by means of a lattice-scratch test.

For this purpose, diamond-shaped lines are carved into the screed with a pointed object or a special scratching device. There must be no eruptions or seds, otherwise it is not firm enough.

Drying time of the screed

Too much moisture in the subfloor is quite likely to cause damage to the floor covering sooner or later – regardless of whether it is hardwood flooring, vinyl flooring- or cork flooring.

If a new floor is not laid sufficiently dry, it can lead to increased swelling behavior, especially for wooden floors or coverings with support material made of wood fibreboards.

Unattractive dents and bulges, especially in the impact areas, are the result.

Caution is also required with barrier primers, as although moisture penetrates more slowly, it still remains in the house.

Receipt maturity of the screed

Careful procedure, sufficient drying time and exact residual moisture measurement are therefore basic requirements for the readiness of the screed for laying – only then is the subfloor suitable for laying parquet.

Screed is available in various versions, which are reflected in their composition and their drying time. Among the most common species Count:

Cement screed

The most commonly used cement screed consists of sand, cement (as binder) and water – and is therefore one of the flow screeds.

Supplied as a dry mixture, flow screed is mixed directly on site with the addition of water and introduced via a screed pump.

Cement screed is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use due to its moisture resistance and has stable strength values.

During installation and during the drying phase, the ambient temperature must not be below 5°C, draughts and humidity must be avoided – otherwise the surface may become uneven or even cracked.

When is cement screed accessible?

After 2 to 3 days the cement screed can be walked on, after approx. 10 days it can be fully loaded, the readiness for laying is reached after approx. 4 weeks drying phase.

Anhydrite screed

The anhydrite screed, which is also one of the flow screeds, is also enjoying increasing popularity, as the contained binder anhydrite shortens the drying phase.

Due to its good thermal conductivity, anhydrite screed is ideally suited for underfloor heating systems, but on the other hand it is not suitable for outdoor use, as the screed becomes unusable on contact with water.

Dry screed

There is no drying time when dry screed is used. Prefabricated panels made of plasterboard, wood-based material or cement-bound chipboard glued or screwed on the raw floor. Unevenness or too low construction heights must be balanced with granules or be piled up.

In addition, there are other, less common screed screeds such as magnesite screed, cast asphalt screed or synthetic resin screed.

Residual moisture determination

When drying ledges, approximately 1 cm of screed per week is generally considered to be a guideline.

If the screed is over 4 cm thick, two additional weeks should be taken into account, as it has an extended binding time.

In the case of underfloor heating, it is also recommended to heat the screed completely afterwards.

For this purpose, the flow temperature of the underfloor heating system is increased to two thirds of the heating load in 5°C increments and then lowered again. A detailed heating protocol should be kept for control.

After the drying or heating phase, an exact test of the residual moisture is necessary.

Measuring points that have already been set when the screed is applied facilitate the process and ensure a reliable result. Fast binders can affect the values and should therefore be disclosed.

The permissible residual moisture depends on both the type of as well as whether or not underfloor heating is available. Depending on the screed, the standard values are as follows:

  • cement screed: 2 % without floor heating / 1.8 % with floor heating
  • anhydrite screed: 0.5 % without underfloor heating / 0.3 % with underfloor heating
  • magnesite line: max. 4 %

Some parquet adhesives are already approved for higher residual moisture. However, the manufacturer’s information should always be treated with caution.

Moisture measurement with CM method

For residual moisture determination, the measurement is recommended using the CM method (calcium carbide method).

For this purpose, the pressure pressure of a crushed and shaken with calcium carbide is measured with a special device and determined as a value for the residual moisture using a conversion table.

Since the measurement is in principle very complex – and also the only approved test procedure for the publisher’s stiffener – it is recommended to contact a specialist.

Whether parquet, carpet or laminate – excessive load is not good for the floor.

Especially at workplaces with desk and office chair, the floor is heavily stressed.

A floor protection mat as a chair mat prevents damage and protects the floor covering.

Office chair pads – the optimal floor protection

Desk chairs with castors can quickly leave marks on the floor – carpets are rubbed off, hard floors such as parquet or laminate are defaced by scratches or nicks.

Floor protection mats should therefore not be missing under any office chair, as parquet savers or carpet protectors offer effective protection against damage.

Office chair pads are available in a wide variety of designs, colours, sizes and materials.

Which floor saver is best suited depends on several criteria:

On which floor ingesenator is the floor protection used?

There is the right protective mat for every floor.

The offer includes floor protection mats for carpet as well as floor protection mats for hard flooring and parquet.

The surfaces all have a non-slip underside, the surface is often even coated with an antibacterial coating, so that dirt and bacteria have no chance.

Floor protection mats for carpet

As a chair pad for textile floor coverings, the special carpet floor protection mats are equipped with blunt anchor tops on the underside of the mat. These ensure a secure grip so that the protective mat cannot slip.

How long the anchors should be depends on the height of the carpet.

Thanks to the carpet saver, the carpet is neither flattened nor soiled by the rollers of the desk chair and the floor remains beautiful for longer.

Soil protection mats for hard flooring

Hard floors include flooring such as wood, parquet, laminate, tiles, stone, PVC, vinyl and cork.

In contrast to floor protection mats for carpets, floor protectors for hard floors do not have bumps, but have a special non-slip profile.

It is smooth and protects the floor without the underlay slipping.

Floor protection mats for parquet

Hard-floor office chair mats are also suitable as parquet savers.

Its smooth underside has proven to be parquet protection.

The protective mats not only prevent scratches or sanding marks, but also protect the parquet from stains and moisture in case something falls to the floor.

Which material is used as a chair pad for the respective application?

Soil protection mats can be made of different materials, all of which have certain properties and advantages.

Apart from the flooring, personal preferences and requirements for the office chair base are also decisive for the material decision.

PET (polyethylene terephthalate)

Pet floor savers are partly made from recycled bottles and are therefore environmentally friendly.

They also score points for their durability and are highly translucent. They have an effect footfall sound insulation and are also suitable for use on underfloor heating systems.

Polypropylene

Also suitable for underfloor heating and in addition odourless and skin-friendly are floor protection mats made of polypropylene.

They withstand high loads, are scratch-resistant and water-repellent.

Polycarbonate

Due to the properties of polycarbonate, desk chair pads made of this material have a very long service life.

They are not only extremely resilient and hard-wearing, but also resistant to weather, heat and radiation. Also plasticizers or solvents are not contained in these mats.

Natural rubber

Floor protection mats made of the renewable raw material natural rubber are water-repellent and very elastic. The material is also tear-resistant and has an antistatic effect.

What shape or colour should the floor protection mat have?

Due to different designs and colours, the office chair underlay can become quite an eye-catcher.

Those who attach importance to discreet floor protection are well advised with transparent chair documents.

They are barely visible and still offer the desired effect.

The form of the office chair pad depends primarily on the arrangement of the desk.

It is important that the shape of the floor protection mat covers the entire workplace as far as possible.

Lips on the mats provide additional protection against wetness and dirt on shoe soles.

How big should the underlay be?

Like the shape, the size of the desk chair underlay depends on the workstation.

In accordance with the workplace regulation, the freedom of movement must be at least 1.5 m2.

With regard to the dimensions of the floor protection mat, the larger the floor protection.

In addition to the standard sizes, many manufacturers also offer custom-made floor savers.

Attaching and cleaning floor protection mats

In order to protect the floor effectively and sustainably, care must be taken to properly attach the office chair pad.

For floor protection mats for carpets, the smooth side represents the surface, the toped side represents the underside.

In contrast, floor protection mats for hard floors or floor protection mats for parquet have the smooth side at the bottom and the rough side at the top.

The cleaning of floor savers is best done with pure water and subsequent re-drying with a soft cloth.

In the case of heavy contamination, household general-purpose cleaners can be added, sharp or corrosive agents as well as alcohol- and salmiak-holding cleaners should be dispensed with altogether.