Like any other floor, parquet wears off over time. Regular polishing not only restores parquet to new gloss, but also protects the floor better against dirt, dust and moisture.

Recommended polishing machines from this article:

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How to polish your parquet in the best way and which polishing machines can be used for it, you will learn in the following article.

Why is parquet polishing useful?

parquet is exposed to more or less high loads every day, which leave their marks over time. In addition to the daily cleaning, parquet therefore also needs regular care to keep it beautiful and to increase its lifespan. Although the service life can be considerably extended by protective measures such as support for office chairs, at some point even this no longer helps.

Polishing parquet is a proven method of freshening up the floor. First and foremost, polishing parquet achieves a visual effect, but at the same time it also makes the floor more resistant to dirt, dust and moisture. In addition, polishing small scratches or signs of wear and tear can be removed from the hardwood flooring without having to sand the entire floor.

When and how often is parquet to polish?

At what intervals parquet is to be polished is related to the degree of stress.

With average wear, parquet should be polished once or twice a year. However, it may also be necessary more often if the parquet is exposed to heavy loads, normal cleaning is no longer sufficient to remove contaminants or if the floor simply does not like any more. Especially before winter, polishing the parquet is recommended, as the floor is better protected from the impending increased load of wet and dirty shoes.

Can any parquet be polished?

The surface of parquet can be either varnished, oiled or waxed – any parquet can be polished.

However, there may be some differences in effort. With oiled and waxed parquet, the floor is only impregnated and the pores of the wood remain open. As a result, the oil or wax dissens over time and the gloss of the parquet decreases.

Therefore oiled or waxed parquet needs more care than lacquered parquet.

In this variant, the surface is completely sealed by the paint. The protective layer also decreases over time, but usually primarily in places with heavy stress. Sealed parquet is therefore sometimes less frequent polishing or it may be sufficient to merely partially repolish the claimed areas.

Polishing parquet: How it works

The preparation

Before polishing the parquet can begin, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is best to remove furniture and carpets from the room so that the parquet is completely clear. Afterwards, all dust and dirt must be thoroughly removed from the hardwood flooring with the vacuum cleaner or broom; cleaning with a damp cloth should also be carried out.

Before the polishing process is also the optimal time to carry out repair work on the parquet. Small scratches, cracks or holes can be treated with a repair kit and then polished. It is important that the processed areas are completely dry before the polishing process starts.

The polishing process

Earlier on, polishing hardwood flooring was a time-consuming and laborious process. Heated floor wax was applied to the parquet by hand or with bulky and heavy floor polishing machines. This resulted in a wax layer covering the entire surface during each polishing process, which sometimes chipped off in places with little wear and tear, e.g. under furniture, thus necessitating extensive basic cleaning or even the abrasive removal of the entire floor.

What polishing with?

Nowadays liquid polish is mainly used for polishing parquet.

It consists, among other things, of plastics or synthetic resin, which makes it particularly well adhered and tear-resistant and also easier to process.

Modern parquet polishes are commercially available as a ready-to-use mixture or for enriching with water and in a glossy or matt finish. When buying the polish, make sure that it does not contain silicone oils or derivatives of mineral oils, as these can damage the parquet.

Many manufacturers also offer special polishes for their parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations should be observed when polishing.

How the polish is applied to the parquet depends on the respective product. There are polishing agents in spray bottles that can be sprayed onto the floor.

Others, on the other hand, must first be diluted with water and applied to the parquet with a mop or cloth. Only now does the actual polishing begin.

If parquet is polished by hand, the polish is uniformly incorporated into the parquet with a wool or polishing cloth in fast, circular movements until the desired gloss effect is created.

Especially with unsealed parquet, a second polishing process may be necessary.

Polishing machines for parquet

However, manual polishing of parquet is very force- and time-consuming.

The polishing process works much more easily with special polishing machines for parquet – also called bohner machines or blockers.

These are equipped with various polishing pads, which can be used, depending on the application, for removing dirt, for basic cleaning, for re-oiling parquet or for incorporateing the polish.

The dead weight of the polishing machine generates considerably more pressure on the polishing pad than would be possible with manual polishing, and this not only makes the polishing process easier and faster, but also ensures a more efficient result.

In principle A car polishing machine can also be used for polishing parquet. However, this is only recommended in the marginal areas, polishing the entire floor surface would be much too complicated.

In most DIY stores or specialist retailers there are polishing machines for parquet to rent or rent – the cost is around 20 to 30 euros per day plus deposit.

Of course, polishing machines are also available for purchase, although the acquisition costs are usually relatively high.

However, with regular use, the investment can still be worthwhile. Polishing machines for private use are usually not only suitable for refreshing parquet, but also for growing and polishing other floors.

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Berlin profile

Hamburg profile

Maple skirting board

Beech skirting board

Oak skirting board

Grey skirting board

Walnut skirting board

Walnut skirting board

White skirting boards

The color of your base

To find the right bar for your floor, it’s best to look at some patterns in direct comparison. The color plays a very important role in the selection. Thus, the skirting board can be selected e.g. in the color of the floor. In small rooms, however, this can quickly have a narrowing effect.

A skirting board in the color of the wall (usually white), on the other hand, makes a room look wider (more generous than any other option).

The shape of the skirting boards

The shape of the footboard is a far underestimated factor when it comes to the spatial effect. Both the “style” of your bar and the width of the bar can greatly change the spatial effect.

For example, everyone can immediately recognise the typical skirting boards used for laminate flooring in the low-cost sector. Such a skirting board should never be laid to a high-quality parquet floor.

Traditionally contrazy & no-frills

In most cases, people find traditional profiles, such as the ones described below (Berliner & Hamburger Profile) to be more suitable when it is a plank floor with a rustic effect. Modern floorboards or prefabricated parquet with chamfer / emphasis on the plank look, on the other hand, are usually provided with a simple, white skirting board.

Find the right skirting boards

When selecting the bars, it is important that the cover width is sufficient to cover the edge joint of the parquet. In the case of solid parquet, the edge joint may have been chosen relatively large as a preventive measure due to the swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the wood. In most cases, a width of at least 20 mm must be maintained. A width of just under 16 mm is usually sufficient for finished parquet.

The purpose of a skirting board

Skirting boards should usually cover the joint between the floor and the wall. For wood and laminate floors, this joint is usually up to 15mm – quite a lot. In addition, the skirting board should of course protect the wall from damage during parquet maintenance. It is not for nothing that the noble pieces used to be called “scrubbing bars”.

Massive or veneer skirting boards?

A distinction is also made between solid and veneered skirtings. Both are made of real wood, whereby the “veneer version” is somewhat cheaper due to the low hardwood content. Both variants can be either nailed or mounted with screws. Most skirting boards available as standard oak plinth and beech plinth variants. Always worth considering are aluminium skirtings and the variants listed below.

Possible shapes of your new skirting board

Below we have listed a short overview of the other possible skirting board profiles. Profiles such as the Berliner profile or the Hamburger profile appear to be of the highest quality. Both are available in natural colours as well as in white. The “Berliner” but also the “Hamburger” profile are completely different in their appearance from conventional bases.
In the past they were used in villas, castles and mansions.

Today, these “beautifully ornate” profiles can also be found in old apartments in city centres. The style is particularly suitable for wooden floors such as the plank pattern. Of course, we also have simple profiles in our program, which do not stand out optically and simply cover the edge joint.

Baseboards made of solid wood

The advantage of solid wood skirting boards is their natural appearance. Baseboards made of solid wood also contain once “wilder” areas of wood grain. Thus, a solid bar made of beech wood can also contain very dark stripes or even small branch holes. In contrast to veneered or even “foiled” skirting boards, the massive design also fits rustic floors, which by nature already seem more “uneasy”.

Why solid wood base should be screwed

However, a solid wood footboard tends to change its shape slightly. Just like any piece of wood, the solid skirting board changes its dimensions in the event of fluctuations in humidity. Therefore, they should always be mounted with plugs & screws. This requires a little more effort during assembly, but is the better solution in the long term.

Sockets made of MDF / HDF

The cheapest option is to buy MDF, HDF skirtings. These are pressed wood fibres, which are covered with a foil. Just like laminate floors, the film has the look of a wooden surface. Because only fibres and not whole wooden slats are required for production, this type of skirting board is particularly favourable.

Advantages of plinths & skirting boards made of MDF

]MDF sockets convince not only by their low price. Since they are not made of solid wood, they do not change their dimensions like solid wood. They can therefore be easily fixed with nails or wire pins in the wall. As they are also very flexible, they are also suitable for bridging or laminating slight unevenness in the soil. To do this, simply bend the groin over the floor shaft in question and fix it in the wall at the same time with nails.

Disadvantages of MDF skirting boards

The only known drawback of MDF strips is that the film can easily burst in case of damage. This occurs, for example, when the skirting board is fastened with nails and the hammer slips off. However, it can also happen in hindsight that, for example, a cat or other pets damage the groin with its claws.

MDF Laminate Skirting boards

MDF skirting boards actually come from the laminate manufacturing sector, as they are based on the same material. MDF laminate skirting boards can, however, also be used on parquet floors without hesitation. Only with very “wild” grades with many knots or stripes, the artificial grain of an MDF strip could look unsuitable. For example, if you decide on white bases, this problem does not occur.

Interesting facts about aluminium skirting boards

Aluminium (aluminium) skirting boards are often installed in representative buildings, e.g. bank houses, insurance companies, etc.

Alu footboards also fit perfectly with high-quality parquet floors or epoxy resin floors. The matte appearance of the aluminium strip harmonizes e.g. with the matt surface of an oiled walnut floor.

Important for the assembly of aluminium skirting boards

Alu skirting boards cannot be mounted like ordinary bases. Neither the screwing nor the assembly with nails is possible. Therefore, aluminium skirting boards are mounted with a special “underrail”. This is used for snapping the actual skirting board and is screwed onto the wall beforehand. Then you just click the bar on the rail. You also have to do things differently when cutting the aluminium strips. A special saw blade should be installed in the “cut/miter saw” so that clean cuts succeed and the saw blade does not become blunt. The substrate should also be particularly flat, as real aluminium is not so easy to bend. In old buildings, therefore, better attention should be paid to “hybrid” solutions.

The “Hybrid” – wooden base with aluminium optics

Alu skirting boards are available on wood as a kind of mixed product. This is a deceptively real replica of aluminium, which is pulled over a wooden base as a foil. The advantage: Both the assembly by means of nails/screws as well as the sawing with a normal wood saw blade are possible. In addition, the price is much more attractive than with “real” aluminium skirting boards.

Assemble skirting boards correctly

Because there are various possibilities for the assembly of skirting boards, which do not always have to be suitable in your case, we have described here the most well-known methods.

Mounting skirting boards screwed – Quick Start Guide

The screwed mounting of skirting boards is widely used and very popular, especially because of its durability. In the event of a renovation, the strips can be easily removed and, for example, reassembled without complications after painting. For this, the assembly is a little more complex than, for example, the attachment with nails.

First, the skirting board is cut to the right angle with a miter saw or “crosscut saw”. Then you mark the punch marks at regular intervals. The distance between the holes should always be about 50-60 cm. If too little distance is left, the optics are impaired – if one leaves too much distance, the skirting board is usually not uniform everywhere.

Mounting skirting boards with nails – Quick Start Guide

The much simpler method is the assembly with nails or “wire pins”. Here, after cutting, simply press the skirting board to the wall and put on a nail. The nail is now driven through the groin. One should set tighter distances than with the screwed assembly. A nail should be attached approximately every 20 cm.

If you are not yet so experienced with a hammer and nails, you can also simply place the groin on a hard surface and put all nails on already, or drive some milimeters into the skirting board. This makes the subsequent installation on the wall much easier, because the nail can no longer slip off.

Video: Attach skirting boards with nails

With a hardwood flooring in the living room, a wide range of possibilities in interior design are opened up. Floors made of the natural raw material wood are not only robust and durable, but also ensure a healthy room climate and a pleasant living atmosphere. The personal requirements are decisive for the choice of the optimal parquet. Find out in this article which parquet is optimal for living rooms and how the parquet can significantly influence the overall impression of the room.

how Parquet in the living room works

The floor is the most important element in the interior design. Depending on its appearance, colour and texture, parquet in combination with the furnishings gives the living room a very individual character. Therefore, the decision for the optimal parquet should be carefully considered and some influencing factors should be taken into account.

Wood

Which wood is suitable for the hardwood flooring in the living room depends, among other things, on the stress to which the floor is exposed. In general, the harder the wood, the more robust the floor is. For heavy-duty applications, hardwoods such as oak, ash or walnut are therefore particularly suitable, as are medium-hard wood types such as pear and birch, maple or cherry are optimal for average loads, while soft woods such as spruce or pine are more recommended for living rooms with low frequency.

Parquet art

An essential feature of parquet is the construction.

Parquet can generally be divided into solid or single-layer parquet and finished or multi-layer parquet (2- or 3-layer parquet). The various parquet types differ not only with regard to the recommended type of installation, but also in their thickness and thus in their service life. This is because the thickness of the parquet is essential when it comes to how often the floor can be renovated by abrasive sanding.

Laying type

In general, hardwood flooring in the living room can either be glued full-surface or laid floating . The type of installation depends on the type of parquet and the room conditions. For example, in living rooms with underfloor heating parquet glued over the entire surface (with parquet glue) should always be preferred, as it has better thermal conductivity.

Color

Parquet is available in a wide range of colors and shades – from light to dark, from yellowish to reddish to brown.

Various surface treatments can also be used to change the natural colour of the wood. Dark floors absorb the light but also add warmth to the room, while light floors reflect the light and make the room appear larger. On the other hand, stains and smaller damages are more quickly and easily visible on light-coloured floors in the living room than on dark parquet.

Sorting

Since each wood differs in grain, colour and structure, there are also parquet floors for living rooms in different sortings. The parquet elements are available in order to standardise guidelines with regard to astone closures, cracks, cinden growths, colour and grain in order to achieve the overall uniform result of the soil.

The sorting has no effect on the quality of the parquet, but on the overall appearance of the living room. So it makes a difference whether the parquet in the living room is quiet and discreet, lively or rustic with many visible branch holes or corresponding patina sorted.

Formats and optics

The different formats of parquet also give the living room an individual appearance and also influence how large a room looks.

In the classic Landhausdiele look, the characteristic properties of the respective wood species are retained thanks to the large format and uniform surface of the parquet floorboards. It makes a room appear elegant and optically larger.

A livelier and more dynamic spatial image can be achieved, for example, through the offset arrangement of short bar elements in the ship floor look. In general, the recommendation is to use wide, long planks or 1- or 2-plank parquet in large living rooms, whereas 3-plank parquet gives a more optimal picture in smaller living rooms.

Laying direction

The visual effect of the living room can also be significantly influenced by the laying direction of the parquet.

While longitudinally laid parquet emphasizes the room shape of the living room and stretches it optically, transversely laid parquet makes the room appear wider. In addition to the installation direction itself, however, natural light sources, such as large window fronts in the living room, must also be taken into account. Thus, when the light is moved in the direction of the window, the light is optically directed into the center of the room – parquet laid across the light source, on the other hand, accentuates the characteristic appearance of the parquet.

Surface treatment

The nature of the surface of the hardwood flooring in the living room mainly affects the resistance and care requirements of the floor.

Oiled or waxed parquet is merely impregnated and the pores of the wood remain open, while the surface of lacquered parquet is sealed over the entire surface sealed. Accordingly, sealed hardwood flooring in the living room is even more robust and less susceptible to dirt and damage than oiled or waxed parquet.

Surface finishing

Its final appearance is given to parquet different techniques of surface finishing. The parquet surface can be brushed, shaded or planed, leached or limed. Depending on the The type of finishing results in a characteristic structure of the parquet or can consciously produce different color variants within a wood type to become.

In contrast to surface treatment, the surface finish of hardwood flooring in the living room has pure optical effects.

Furnishing style and personal taste

A expert advice on the different effects of the many different types of parquet should always form the basis of any decision. In addition, the respective style of furnishing or the interior of the living room also plays a role. Ultimately, however, personal taste is still the decisive factor in choosing the ideal parquet for the living room.

When a new floor is laid, additional height is usually to be expected.

For example, if a carpet flooring is removed and replaced by a hardwood flooring, the subfloor structure grows from 4 mm to 15 mm. To ensure that the doors can continue to be used, the door must be shortened.

In addition, the door frames should be trimmed to a suitable height before the laying of the wooden floor.

Instead of defacing the transition with unsightly silicone joints, the parquet can then be simply pushed under the frame (only partially recommended for click parquet).

Tool list

  • Diving circular saw
  • Fine multimaster or door trimmer
  • Fine sanding paper
  • Stechbeitel & Hammer

Adapt the door frames to the parquet

Video: How to shorten the door frame (door lining)

To find the right height for the door frame, all you need is a piece of the top covering (e.g. a single bar oak parquet).

This piece will not be used later, as it usually gets some scratches.

The parquet rod is now placed directly on the screed on the door frame.

It is important that the parquet rod is directly attached to the frame. If there is a distance between them, the saw blade likes to deviate downwards and the frame is cut off at an angle.

If you don’t have a Multimaster or similar, you can also use a Japanese saw and a little bit of hand feeling.

Once the frame has been sawn through, remove the loose parts with a chisel (“stemmeisen”) and a hammer.

One should be careful not to damage the veneer, for example.

Once the excess is removed, the parquet rod is pushed under the frame for a sample. If everything fits, it goes to the next frame.

Machines for shortening the door frame (door lining)

Shorten the door: Bring the door leaf to parquet height

In order to use the door leaf as usual and so that it does not swipe on the parquet floor, it is facilitated by the additional flooring height.

In most cases, it is only a few millimetres of the door that need to be shortened.

The most common problems with shorten door are

  • Finding the right height
  • Prevent the guide rail from slipping
  • Finding a safe stand for the door leaf
  • Prevent the “diswelling” on the saw cut

So that the above problems are no longer any more, proceed as follows:

  1. When the parquet floor has been installed, the door is hung briefly. The door hinge now measures how many millimetres the door protrudes. This is the height, which must be shortened at least on the door leaf. If the parquet floor or the subfloor is uneven, several adjustments should be expected.
  2. To prevent the door leaf from slipping, we set up two sufficiently wide folding stands. These must be the same height and should be wrapped with a blanket or similar (to avoid scratches).
  3. To shorten the door we use not a jigsaw. A plunge-circular saw with guide rail should always be used here. The guide rail of a good dipping circular saw (e.g. Festo, Bosch etc.) can be fixed with a screw clamp. This means that we place the guide rail on the door leaf and then fix it with one screw clamp each on the left and right.

Shortening the door – video guide

To prevent the door leaf fraying out when sawing with the plunge-circular saw, the following possibilities exist:

  1. Glue the place with a Tesa adhesive tape beforehand (dangerous with painted doors, as the paint can be removed with)
  2. “Scratching” with a sharp cutter knife, along the rail
  3. Place the diving circular saw on the rail and start. Then dip the saw blade very easily (2-3mm) and first drive along the rail with the saw. This has a similar effect to scribbled with the cutter, but in any case hits exactly the cutting line. Now the cut can be performed in the second gear and full depth.

Once steps 1 to 4 have been completed, it is necessary to test whether the door leaf is still swiping on the parquet floor. If so, steps 1 to 4 must be performed again.

If not, place the door leaf on the painting blocks one last time anyway. In order to prevent the veneer from fraying or tearing off later, you should now break both cut edges with a fine sandpaper.

That’s it – the door is shortened and now it can be hooked up again.

Machines for shortening the door (door leaf)

parquet is a robust and durable floor covering. Nevertheless, it can happen that a new floor is desired in the course of renovation or remodelling and laminate is chosen. The question then arises as to the correct procedure for laying laminate on hardwood flooring.

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

In general, it should be noted that laminate can not be laid on every type of parquet.

Only fully glued parquet is suitable as a subfloor for the new floor – in this case there is nothing to prevent direct installation.

Laying laminate on floating parquet is not recommended. In this case the parquet should first be completely removed before the new floor can be laid.

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

Apart from the fact that the parquet must be fully glued, there are a number of other factors involved in the laying of laminate must be taken into account on parquet:

Just like the screed when laying a new floor, the parquet must be clean, dry and level before the laminate can be laid on it. Larger unevenness should be levelled in advance by sanding or filling with levelling compound. However, minor unevenness of approx. 1 to 2 mm can usually be compensated with a impact sound insulation for parquet .

The impact sound insulation is highly recommended for laminate on parquet because the combination of the two floor coverings would otherwise be very noisy.

Moisture-permeable insulating materials such as cork or cardboard are suitable. It is even easier if a laminate with integrated footfall sound insulation is used.

A vapour barrier, on the other hand, should not be used for laminate parquet always. Parquet is a wooden floor that absorbs or releases moisture. This could easily cause waterlogging under the PVC film, which would result in permanent damage to the floor.

In order to achieve more stability of the floor, the laminate should be laid crosswise to the existing parquet. It should be noted, however, that light incidence can cause a changed joint pattern.

The use of click laminate is recommended, as this is not only relatively easy to install without expert help, but can also be removed again without leaving any residue, as it does not have to be glued.

Since laminate expands and contracts again with temperature fluctuations, expansion joints should be taken into account when laying laminate on hardwood flooring. This gives the floor the necessary clearance without causing undesirable joint formation or dents.

If laminate is laid on hardwood flooring, this changes the construction height, or thickness of the flooring. It may therefore be necessary to shorten door frames or leaves accordingly. Height differences at transitions can be laminated with profiles.

A spilled glass or a bucket that has fallen over – water can quickly get onto the hardwood flooring due to minor inattention and cause unsightly water stains. This article will show you how best to remove them.

How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Prolonged water exposure does not be good for the parquet.

Because the soil from the natural raw material wood reacts to moisture. In order to avoid damage in the parquet, water laughter should therefore be avoided in general.

Should an accident nevertheless occur, the following applies: The faster the water is wiped up, the better.

If it is removed in a timely manner, no undesirable consequences can be feared due to the wetness.

However, if water remains on the parquet for a longer period of time, it can penetrate into the joints and lead to increased swelling of the floor. Water stains also only occur if the wetness can penetrate the parquet.

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Water stains on the parquet are annoying because they affect the appearance of the floor.

The good news is, however, that damage caused by water spots in the parquet can be repaired relatively well. Depending on whether it is a bright or a dark water stain or oiled or lacquered parquet, there are different approaches.

Remove bright water stains

Bright water spots are only superficial – the water has not penetrated into the interior of the parquet.

Bright water stains can be easily removed from both painted and oiled parquet floors.

No aggressive cleaners are necessary, simple household remedies are completely sufficient in most cases:

Simply apply water-dissolved baking soda or salt, white toothpaste, lubricating soap or paint gasoline to the bright water stain in the parquet and remove with a soft cloth.

The cleaned area can then be treated with oil or sealed sealed.

Remove dark water stains

Dark water stains indicate that the water has penetrated the parquet and reacted with the tannic acid contained in the wood (for oak parquet and acacia). This is why the removal of dark water stains in hardwood flooring is different from the removal of light-coloured stains. The actual cost depends on whether the parquet has been oiled or varnished.

Oiled parquet

In the case of oiled parquet, it is possible to treat the water stain with special tannic acid stain sprays even without pre-treatment and to remove light water edges with it.

The more complex, but also more reliable method is to grind down the affected area and re-oil it. In the case of very small stains, it is also possible to cut out the area with a cutter knife and then repair it with a parquet repair kit.

The oil layer must first be removed – this works best with coarse sanding paper.

When the water stain is reached, use fine sandpaper to avoid sanding too much of the surface. The water stain can be treated with even sanding movements until it is no longer visible. Afterwards, the fine dust produced is removed with a vacuum cleaner and a new layer of oil is applied. Visible transitions/gloss differences between old and new oil layer can sometimes be adjusted with steel wool. Often the colour differences disappear after a few years by themselves, through the regular use of parquet care. Finally, the entire parquet should be treated with suitable care products.

Painted parquet

In principle, this method is also possible to remove water stains from lacquered parquet. However, partial sanding always leads to colour differences in the parquet, as the floor darkens over time. Therefore, in such cases the complete parquet floor must actually be sanded down. This is the only way to avoid differences in colour and gloss.

If an existing floor covering of tiles is to be replaced with parquet, this is generally possible without removing the old tiles.

However, there are a number of important aspects to consider when laying parquet on tiles. The following article will tell you what these are.

Which parquet is for laying on tiles Suitable?

Multilayer parquet is best suited for laying on tiles.

Due to its construction in several layers, less tension is transferred from the parquet to the underlying tiles.

But also the laying of solid parquet is possible in principle. However, in this case it is advisable to use a decoupling pad (e.g. fleece) as a transition between tiles and parquet, as this reduces the voltages occurring.

The best choice for solid parquet is oak, as this type of parquet has relatively low swelling and shrinkage behaviour compared to other parquet types – even in damp conditions – and works correspondingly less.

What is to be done in the preparation of the tiled floor Note?

With the tiled floor itself, it is advantageous if it is as large, stable tiles as possible. Mosaic tiles are suitable for laying of parquet less good, as the many joints make it easy to deformations of the parquet.

Before parquet can be laid on tiles, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is necessary to clean the tiles thoroughly in the first step and remove all dirt and residues of care products, otherwise a separating layer may form and the parquet adhesive may not hold properly.

Furthermore, the substrate for laying parquet on tiles must be flat and solid.

Therefore, it is necessary to check carefully whether the existing tiles still adhere accordingly to the substrate.

The best way to find out is to tap every single tile. If hollow-sounding or loose tiles are discovered during this process, they should be removed together with tile adhesive seam and the resulting gaps in the floor filled with filler.

The tiled floor is then sanded and – if necessary – a 2-component epoxy resin primer is applied as an adhesion bridge. This is too smooth on its own after drying to absorb a levelling compound. Therefore the primer must be sprinkled with quartz sand directly during application. This is the only way to ensure mechanical bonding of the filler to be applied afterwards.

The final and decisive step in laying parquet on tiles is theapplication of a suitable levelling compound, with which joints and other unevenness in the tiled floor are levelled.

Only when the substrate is completely dry, flat and solid can the parquet be laid on the tiles. The prepared work requires the greatest care, so that there are no undesirable problems when laying the parquet.

It is therefore generally advisable to have parquet laid on tiles by a specialist.

Parquet on tiles: fully glued or floating Moved?

Basically, parquet can be laid on tiles both full-surface glued as well as floating . In both cases, dismantling is not possible, as the tiles are severely affected by the preceding preparations and are no longer visually appealing.

In general, experts recommend full-surface gluing of parquet to tiles using parquet adhesive, as this type of installation has certain advantages:

Due to the fixed connection with the substrate, fully glued parquet ensures a pleasant kicking feeling and also prevents sound transmission.

Therefore, in this case, footfall sound insulation is not necessary. With floating installation, on the other hand, the parquet only lies loosely on the tiles and thus amplifies the sound. Accordingly, it is essential to ensure effective impact sound insulation for this type of installation.

In addition, a vapour barrier is required for floating parquet on tiles in order to be able to absorb any moisture on the substrate.

It should be noted that the floor construction with floating laid parquet on tiles becomes considerably higher due to the required steam barrier and impact sound insulation than with fully glued parquet.

As a result, there may be unsightly height differences at transitions to other floor coverings or doors may have to be shortened.

In rooms with floor heating, floating parquet on tiles is not recommended. The additional layers have a strong thermal insulation effect and lead to a reduced thermal conductivity of the floor.

There is no right or wrong for the laying direction of parquet.

However, it is crucial that the overall impression and atmosphere of the room are significantly influenced by this. The following article gives you an overview of how the laying direction of parquet affects a room – and what you should consider when making your decision.

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Basically, a distinction can be made between three variants in the laying direction of parquet:

  • Along
  • Across
  • or diagonal.

Depending on the size of the room, the structural conditions and the light incidence, a room acquires its own character.

Room size

The size of a room can be visually consciously influenced by the installation direction of parquet.

The laying of hardwood flooring on the long side emphasizes the room shape. So if the parquet is laid in the direction of the longer side of the room, the room looks even longer. By laying the parquet across the floor, however, rooms appear wider.

In itself, even wide spaces achieve more depth effect when transversely laid, while narrow, long corridors are optically shortened and widened – and thus appear more even. If, on the other hand, a installation takes place in the direction of space, the room is additionally “stretched”.

In addition to the laying direction, the dimensions of the parquet elements, or the parquet type also affect the visual size of the room.

The following principle applies: The larger the parquet parts, the smaller the room.

If a room is to be enlarged visually, it should therefore be used in return for small-format parquet.

If a room is not to be emphasized in either direction, cube patterns or cassette shelves are optimal. These appear neutral in any room, regardless of whether they are laid parallel to the walls or at a certain angle.

The classic herringbone parquet is also suitable if neither longitudinal nor transversely laid parquet is desired.

Light

In living rooms with windows, the interplay of natural light incidence and installation direction of the parquet also plays a role in terms of the spatial effect.

If the parquet is laid in the direction of the primary light source, the light is optically directed to the centre of the room and refracts less, so that joints in the parquet are hardly visible.

If, in contrast, the parquet is laid transversely to the light source, these not only appear wider, but also joints, shocks and graining of the wood are more pronounced by the refraction of light.

If the characteristic appearance of the parquet is to be consciously underlined, it is therefore recommended to cross-laying, if it is to remain more discreet, longitudinal laying is the better choice. It should also be noted that when the parquet is laid across, not only the texture of the wood is underlined, but also unevenness or possible signs of wear and tear become more visible.

Building conditions

Walls and ceilings as well as the direction of support beams can also have an effect on the optimal installation direction of parquet.

If differently laid room elements cross, the room appears restless, which in turn can have a negative effect on the living atmosphere. Therefore, different directions of laying should be avoided as a matter of principle.

In addition, in nailed dressing floors, such as they are often used in very large rooms, longitudinal direction is preferred, as this meets the spring and shrinkage behavior of the parquet.

In order to be able to allow for the expansion joints required for floating installation, care should also be taken when choosing the direction of installation to ensure that the parquet does not extend beyond door thresholds, but is laid individually in each room.

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Unless special structural conditions make a particular installation direction necessary, design aspects and personal preferences are in the foreground of the decision.

However, since the laying direction of parquet is of great importance in terms of the character and atmosphere of a room, as mentioned above, the final decision should be taken by the owner.

In addition, it can be quite helpful to test the effect of the laying direction on site using several wooden strips or parquet samples before parquet laying or to simulate this virtually on the computer using special interior design programs.

If the decision has been made in favour of parquet as a floor covering, it is not only the design and decor of the parquet that is important. The necessary attention should also be paid to the appropriate footfall sound insulation.

In this article we have summarised why this is so important, what its tasks are and what is important when choosing the best impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring. We have already written an article elsewhere on the subject of impact sound insulation for vinyl floors.

Why is footfall sound insulation so important for parquet?

The most important task of footfall sound insulation in parquet is primarily an acoustic one, because every strain on the parquet causes a noise.

A distinction is made between walking sound and impact sound. While walking sound is only perceived in the room itself, footfall sound is also transmitted over walls and floor to surrounding premises.

Whether steps, armchair backs or the vibration of the washing machine – without appropriate footfall sound insulation, any use of the parquet would also be heard in rooms adjacent to the respective room with hardwood flooring by the way, above or below.

For this reason, footfall sound insulation as a minimum requirement for sound insulation is now also mandatory.

Regulated in the DIN 4109 “Noise insulation in building construction”, the regulations on impact sound insulation serve to protect people in surrounding living and working spaces from unacceptable sound transmission.

However, this regulation only applies to new buildings, old buildings are currently excluded from the requirements for sound insulation.

However, footfall sound insulation is useful in all rooms, so that not every step can be heard throughout the house.

Above all floating parquet vibrates with every movement and thus behaves like a resonance body that transmits the impact sound to the screed underneath and thus amplifies it even further.

However, even without any clearance between the parquet and the subfloor – as is the case with parquet glued over the entire surface parquet – a noise is generated which can be counteracted with impact sound insulation.

Other functions of impact sound insulation under parquet

In addition to sound insulation, footfall sound insulation under parquet fulfils other tasks.

Depending on the material used, unevenness in the subfloor can thus be compensated to a certain extent, which ultimately ensures a more even result when laying parquet.

Furthermore, parquet insulation also protects against rising cold from the subfloor and therefore has an additional thermal insulation effect, although impact sound insulation cannot replace adequate insulation .

What materials are available for parquet footfall sound insulation?

In the search for impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring, there are various solutions that are often referred to in the trade as impact sound insulation mats or parquet underlays .

All products have in common that the parquet is protected by the impact sound insulation and that it can be laid floating without any problems.

Although a full-surface bonding of the parquet is accordingly not required, the footfall sound insulation in the parquet, however, further reduces the sound unwinding.

Commercially available footfall sound insulation for parquet can be different materials.

Plastic

Plastic impact sound insulation is made of PE foam (polyethylene foam) and is available in sheets or films in different thicknesses and finishes.

In principle, a footfall sound insulation made of PE foam can be used under all floors, the differences lie in the thickness of the insulation material as well as in its insulation value.

For hard, noisy parquet, the use of stronger PE foam panels is recommended, as they better insulate the impact sound, while for softer and quieter floors, thinner aluminium films with glued-on PE layer also serve good.

Not to be confused is a footfall sound insulation made of PE film with the conventional PE film, which is used for the insertion of vapour barriers.

Cork

The natural product cork not only has tread-sound-insulating properties, but is also known for its thermally insulating effect.

A footfall sound insulation made of cork is available as panels or on rolls and can be cut easily and individually, which makes the laying work much easier.

Wood fibre

Panels made of debarked and crushed into wood fibres residual wood are also well suited as footfall sound insulation for parquet.

Due to the size of the panels, a fast, comprehensive installation is possible. Footfall sound insulation made of wood fibre panels not only has a sound proofing effect, but also heat insulating and moisture-regulating.

Hemp felt

Available as different widths and long rolls, hemp felt offers not only protection against noise, but also from cold.

In addition, the material properties make it easy to compensate for unevenness in the soil.

Otherwise, alternative materials such as:

  • Styrofoam (EPS)
  • Ripple board
  • Coconut fibre
  • Expanded clay spill

What is the best footfall sound insulation for parquet?

Which footfall sound insulation is the best depends on the underbody.

Whereas in the case of impact sound insulation the principle used to apply, the denser or thicker, the better, the differences between the different materials in terms of sound insulation are relatively small nowadays.

In contrast to most products used in building and living, there is no published test for impact sound insulation.

In order to be able to compare the different impact sound insulations, certain characteristic values and standardized test methods have been developed, which are based on the different requirements for impact sound insulation.

Constructive requirements

The design requirements for footfall sound insulation for Parquet essentially comprises three factors:

Moisture protection

If parquet is laid on a mineral substrate such as screed, the moisture protection of the impact sound insulation plays a decisive role.

In order to be able to block residual moisture from the substrate, a steam barrier or steam brake is necessary. Modern impact sound insulation is now often already equipped with an integrated moisture film, so that no additional film has to be laid. The key figure is the SD value, which should be at least 75 m.

It is important that impact sound insulation with an integrated steam barrier must not be used if it is a wooden substrate.

Any residual moisture would then remain trapped in the substructure and could not escape upwards, resulting in permanent damage to the substructure.

Compensation of unevenness

The PC value defines the balancing capacity of the impact sound insulation – i.e. how high spot bumps in the underbody can be. Since the subsurfaces erected in accordance with the norm have a maximum of 1 mm high spot unevenness, a PC value of 0.5 mm is usually sufficient for the impact sound insulation for parquet.

Coarser unevenness of more than 3 mm must in any case be levelled out in advance by grinding or filling with levelling compound.

Thermal insulation value or heat flow behaviour

The thermal insulation value is particularly important if the parquet footfall sound insulation is laid on underfloor heating systems with parquet.

This is because the floor is heated – or cooled – the material should have as little thermal insulation as possible, while unheated floors should have the highest possible heat transfer resistance.

The recommended thermal insulation values for impact sound insulation for Parquet are:

  • 0,06 m2K/W bei Böden mit Fußbodenheizung
  • 0.04m2K/W for cooled floors
  • 0.075m2K/W for unheated floors

However, the decisive factor for impact sound insulation on parquet with underfloor heating is that the thermal resistance for the entire floor structure must not exceed 0.15 m2K/W. Accordingly, not only the value of the footfall sound insulation alone is decisive, but must always be considered in combination with the value of the floor covering.

Requirements for resilience

The degree of stress on the floor also plays a role in the selection of the footfall sound insulation for parquet is a role. Because the parquet underlay must be can withstand different loads described by means of key figures. to become.

Dynamic loads

These recurring loads, such as walking the parquet or moving armchairs or other pieces of furniture, are expressed in cycles – the longer the characteristics of the impact sound insulation remain unchanged under load, the higher the specified value.

The minimum requirement at normal level of stress, as is the case in residential areas, is 10,000 cycles.

Permanent / temporary loads

Heavy pieces of furniture lead to permanent or temporary Impact sound insulation loads for parquet. While the minimum requirement of 10kPA (1t/m2) for temporary loads mostly absolute is sufficient, the value of 2kPA (200 kg/m2) can be used for permanent loads from kitchen furniture or large cabinets, for example, can be reached quickly, which is primarily important for thin footfall sound insulation.

Protection against heavy falling objects

The RLB value indicates the height from which an item is floor may fall without damaging the impact sound insulation Suffers. The minimum requirement here is 50 cm, but the value should be significantly higher.

Acoustic requirements

As already mentioned, a distinction is made between walking sound and footfall sound when making noises.

The acoustic requirements for impact sound insulation for parquet basically cover both. However, there are still no concrete reference values with regard to the reduction of walking noise .

However, the situation is different when it comes to impact sound minimization: For example, the volume of impact sound with appropriate parquet insulation should be at least 14 db lower by than without, with good impact sound insulation achieving values of 20 db and more.

As a natural floor covering made of wood, parquet has many advantages. However, its naturalness also has an effect in that the parquet works. So in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and intact parquet floor in the long term, expansion joints must be taken into account. In the following you will find out how to proceed best in this respect when laying parquet parquet .

Elongation joints at parquet – why?

Parquet is made of wood and wood works.

In the event of temperature fluctuations or changes in humidity, parquet reacts accordingly with swells and dwindling. This means that it expands depending on the room conditions and pulls back together.

In order to give the parquet the necessary leeway, expansion joints must be observed as soon as they are laid, as they compensate for the spring and shrinkage behaviour of the parquet.

In addition, appropriate expansion joints ensure reduced sound transmission and therefore additionally optimise the result of the required impact sound insulation.

Where do you need expansion joints for parquet?

In the first place, expansion joints must be taken into account when laying parquet in the edge areas of the room.

The basic rule is a wall distance of at least 2 mm per metre of floor – so if the room is 4 m wide, 8 mm expansion joint is required.

With the usually recommended distance of 10 to 15 mm one is on the safe side in rooms of average size, in very large rooms the expansion joint should be correspondingly wider.

From a room dimension of 8 m width and 12 m length, an additional expansion joint is required by leaving out a gap between the parquet elements.

If an elongation joint is already included in the screed, one must also be inserted in the same place in the parquet.

It is well known that parquet all around requires expansion joints on the walls.

However, expansion joints for parquet must be taken into account not only where, but also in other places, where the floor can encounter immovable elements.

These include door frames, stairs, radiator pipes, end profiles e.g. for transitions to other floor coverings and much more.

In the case of heavy furniture, such as kitchens or built-in cupboards, it is advisable to install them before laying the hardwood flooring and then take into account the corresponding expansion joint under the plinth.

If this is not possible, the hardwood flooring under the built-in furniture on the other side requires twice the distance to the wall, as it can only work in one direction.

Is there a difference between bonded and floating laid parquet?

Expansion joints are always necessary for all hardwood flooring, regardless of whether it is glued over the entire surface or installed as a floating installation.

The difference, however, is that glued parquet works less, as it is fixed to the subfloor.

The smallest extent occurs with glued floorparquet, as it is not only connected to the screed, but the material is also glued transversely to each other.

Correspondingly, the expansion joints may be smaller when the parquet is glued, depending on the recommended manufacturer’s instructions. Even with head joints, less distance is sufficient, as the hardwood flooring unfolds its greatest expansion in width here.

Different, on the other hand, with floating parquet. Here, the parquet panels are only loosely laid on the substrate and accordingly have high spring and shrinkage behaviour.

Therefore, in this case, it is strongly advisable to maintain a greater distance in the expansion joints.

What happens if parquet has no expansion joints?

If parquet is laid without paying attention to the correspondingly large expansion joints, the wood cannot work sufficiently.

The parquet panels collide when they are expanded or stand by fixed room elements and begin to bulge.

This not only looks ugly, but can even lead to permanent damage to the parquet.

For example, when individual parquet panels break out of the gluing or the click system breaks.

Floating parquet can still bulge even if the ground is only on one side.

If no expansion joints have been adhered to as part of the parquet laying, you can also install them afterwards.

This involves a certain amount of effort, but it is always worthwhile compared to the inconvenience of a damaged parquet.

Tips for erecting expansion joints

Observance of expansion joints is particularly challenging for laymen.

The use of spacers, which are placed between the wall and the parquet when laying and removed after the laying work has been completed, has therefore proved to be successful.

This ensures that a uniform expansion joint is maintained. In commercially available laying sets for parquet, such wedges or blocks are usually already included or can be retrofitted in the DIY store.

For protection – and of course also because of the more attractive appearance – the expansion joints can be covered accordingly at the end: With skirting boards in the wall areas, rails or profiles at transitions or doors or pipe rosettes or similar covers for heating pipes etc.

Of course, expansion joints can also be filled with joint sealing compound. Here, however, it is essential to ensure that it is a suitable, permanently elastic material, otherwise the parquet will not be able to work.