They are two varieties of flooring that can provide your home with the natural appeal, charm, and sophistication of solid hardwood at a fraction of the cost. However, they couldn’t be more different.

Engineered hardwood comes with an upper layer that is actually made of real hardwood and can thus provide an added touch of authenticity, as well as an enhanced degree of stability compared to solid hardwood.

Vinyl plank floors happen to be a subcategory of vinyl flooring which has been designed to resemble real wood as closely as possible and is even manufactured in the form of planks that can be clicked together. Also referred to as luxury vinyl flooring, it is considered to be more prestigious than laminate flooring and is several times thicker than standard vinyl flooring.

Which option should you choose? To find out the right answer, both floor types have been examined in detail with comparisons drawn up between them using key qualities that should be taken into consideration during the process of selecting a flooring surface. Examining them according to your preferences will enable you to make the best choice for your dream home.

Engineered HardwoodVinyl Plank
LifespanWill last between 30 – 50 yearsWill last between 5 – 25 years
Cleaning and maintenanceRequires special products and itemsEasier to clean and maintain
Water resistanceWater-resistant but not waterproofIs waterproof
Susceptibility to sunlightWill fade with continued exposure over timeWill fade with continued exposure over time
CostMore expensiveRelatively cheaper
Ease of installationSlightly complexEasy
Refinishing optionsCan be sanded and refinishedCannot be sanded or refinished
VarietyA wide range of colors, species, stains, and finishes are availableAn extensive range of colors and styles is available
Suitable for petsYes (high Janka rating, distressed finish recommended)Yes
Overall valueMay raise the value of your home significantlyMay not raise the value of your home significantly

Durability

This quality is one of the most important you will need to take into consideration when selecting a flooring option for your home. This is because selecting a durable surface can save you the extra cost and effort involved in shopping for new flooring and having to install it all over again.

Engineered hardwood

Engineered hardwood is pretty durable and also comes with added stability owing to its multilayered core. High-quality varieties can last for up to 50 years. However, because it is made from wood which is a porous material, it is by no means waterproof.

It is also susceptible to scratching and unlike solid hardwood cannot be refinished several times to get rid of extensive damage (high-quality products are the exception in this case).

Vinyl plank flooring

Vinyl plank flooring is also considered to be one of the more durable flooring options available however it does not last as long as engineered hardwood flooring since its lifespan does not exceed 25 years.

Yet, one of its key advantages over the former is its resistance to wear and tear and to scratching in particular; these qualities make it especially child or pet-friendly.

Another is its water resistance. Newer models which are made from polymers are fully waterproof making them ideal for mudrooms, kitchens, and bathrooms.

Verdict

In terms of longevity, engineered hardwood wins overall, yet in terms of water and scratch resistance and all the daily concerns they entail, vinyl plank flooring is the preferable option.

Cleaning And Maintenance

Different types of flooring surfaces have different types of cleaning and maintenance requirements. Some can be cleaned using general cleaning materials and do not require any special kind of maintenance. Others can only be cleaned using approved materials and their maintenance may involve considerable expense. 

Engineered Hardwood

The refined beauty engineered hardwood floors can provide requires special care to be maintained. Reaching for any available brush or broom and using a very wet mop or even a steam cleaner might simply ruin your floors with scratches from hard bristles or from buckling, crowning, or cupping due to water damage.

To clean your engineered hardwood floors effectively, you will need to ensure you use manufacturer-approved products and avoid harsh cleaning solutions which may also cause damage to the finish. You will also need to endeavor to use soft-bristled brushes and brooms when sweeping to avoid scratching the surface.

This surface is also susceptible to blemishes. Depending on their severity and number it may be possible to repair scratches on engineered hardwood floors with a clear coat or colored markers, wax pencils, or filler and a stain.

Alternatively, you may need to refinish the entire surface. However, unlike solid hardwood floors which can be refinished several times, it may only be possible to refinish your engineered hardwood surface once. The only exceptions are products that have a veneer layer of over 3mm.

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Despite vinyl plank flooring’s impressive resistance to moisture and scratching, you should still aim to use soft-bristled brushes when sweeping and should clean it with a microfiber mop which must be squeezed properly to eliminate as much moisture from it as possible during the process.

You will also need to ensure you avoid harsh cleaning products such as ammonia, bleach, or high pH detergents (mild dish soap is best) and avoid steam cleaning it as well.

The use of wax on surfaces in this category must also be avoided since doing so may cause buildup rather than providing them with an alluring sheen.

Vinyl plank flooring cannot be refinished and you will need to replace the damaged part of the floor using extra planks from the batch you have purchased.

Verdict

Both surfaces require the use of soft-bristled brushes and microfiber mops during cleaning. Neither take kindly to harsh cleaning products and require approved solutions or mild soap. However, vinyl plank floors are generally low maintenance compared to engineered hardwood floors.

Ease Of Installation

Flooring which is easy to install can enable you to save on cost and even time. Several homeowners now prefer to install their flooring themselves rather than relying on professional assistance. However, depending on the level of skill required, hiring the services of a contractor may be the more prudent and cost-effective option in the long run.

Engineered Hardwood

In terms of hardwood floors, engineered hardwood is considered to be an easier option compared to solid hardwood. Homeowners who are rather savvy with home renovation projects will be likely to find the floating installation or the nail-down installation methods easier than the glue-down method. The third option is to install engineered hardwood flooring over a concrete slab.

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Flooring surfaces in this category are even easier to install compared to engineered hardwood floors and are considered one of the most convenient in this regard.

The procedure may either involve locking them together if they have a tongue and groove design or gluing them down if they happen to be of the peel and glue variety, and do not require the services of a professional.

Verdict

If you prefer to save on time and avoid complexity, vinyl plank flooring will be preferable to engineered hardwood since you will be able to install it yourself. The simplicity of the process means that you will be able to complete it promptly compared to the latter option. It also means you will be able to spend less money since you would not need to hire a contractor.

Susceptibility To Sunlight

Sunlight can add a touch of natural magic to our surroundings bathing them in the warmth and glow of summer or spring. 

And yet it can also fade organic and non-organic materials. As a result, the susceptibility of your flooring of choice to damage from the sun’s rays is also another factor that you will need to take into consideration as well as protective measures you may need to take to preserve its charm for as long as possible.

Engineered Hardwood

Wood is sensitive to sunlight and will fade over time as a result of continued exposure to it. This is mostly due to its ultraviolet rays although infrared and visible light also plays a role. The change to your hardwood floors will depend on the nature of the wood used and certain species will lighten as a result of exposure while others will darken.

For example, cherry will darken rather quickly to a reddish color and jarrah will also develop a more intense color over time. On the other hand, walnut and hickory will lighten after a while. 

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Despite its impressive resistance to factors such as scratching and moisture, vinyl plank flooring is also susceptible to fading as a result of prolonged exposure to sunlight. As a result, you may need to rely on tinted windows or the use of window treatments to protect it.

Verdict

Both engineered hardwood and vinyl plank flooring are susceptible to damage from sunlight over time. It is worth noting that it is possible to find engineered hardwood that comes with UV protection in its finish or certain varieties of vinyl plank flooring which have been manufactured with wear layers that have UV protection.

Alternatively, you may also need to use window films to filter out UV light or rely on low-e coated glass.

Cost

Quite often when embarking on a reflooring project, a tradeoff will have to be made between your set budget and your preferences. Factors worth considering will not only include the cost of the flooring but also the cost of installation.

Engineered Hardwood

Surfaces in this category are generally considered to be cheaper compared to solid hardwood and often cost $4 – $10 per square foot. However, depending on the installation method you are choosing, you may also have to consider the cost of hiring a professional which may cost you between $3 – $8 per square foot.

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Luxury vinyl plank costs even less than engineered hardwood with prices ranging between $2.50 – $5 per square foot. Installation is pretty cheap compared to engineered hardwood and ranges between $1 – $3 per square foot. However as noted above, this is one of the easier flooring options to install and you may be able to cut costs even further if you install it yourself.

Verdict   

If you intend to enjoy the aesthetic appeal of one of the more expensive flooring surfaces for a fraction of the cost, vinyl plank flooring may be the preferable option given that it is considerably cheaper compared to engineered hardwood.

Variety

Availability of a wide selection of options increases the likelihood of you being able to obtain the style and color of flooring which perfectly suits your preferred esthetic for your home. Certain types of surfaces can be especially versatile in this regard.

Engineered Hardwood

If you select this option, you will find that you will have an extensive selection to choose from. Regardless of your preferred species, grain, finish, and grade, you will be able to find just what you need.

Vinyl Plank Flooring

Because luxury vinyl plank flooring is printed, the variety on offer is practically limitless. As a result, you will be able to have access to an even greater selection of colors and styles.

Verdict

While vinyl plank flooring offers a truly impressive range of options, engineered hardwood can provide you with all the choices you need to imbue your home with the natural appeal of real wood.

Which Is Better: Engineered Hardwood vs Vinyl Plank Flooring

If you are interested in obtaining the authenticity of hardwood which comes with enhanced moisture resistance and stability at a lower price than solid hardwood, then engineered hardwood will be an excellent choice. The fact that it is also sustainable and will add to the value of your home are added benefits for selecting this flooring option.

However, if you prefer a more child-friendly surface that is low maintenance, has an enhanced resistance to moisture and scratching, and can also be very budget-friendly, you may prefer vinyl plank flooring.

vinyl floor and underfloor heating – a combination that is becoming increasingly popular. Nevertheless, it is a topic that always raises questions. In this article you can find out which vinyl flooring is suitable for underfloor heating systems and what you should bear in mind when laying , so that you can benefit from the advantages of your vinyl floor on underfloor heating in the long term.

A wide range of applications, attractive appearance, easy installation, resistant material properties and much more – the advantages of a vinyl floor are obvious.

Underfloor heating also impresses with numerous advantages such as cost-effectiveness, cleanliness and environmental friendliness.

In single and multi-family houses, the proportion of underfloor heating as a heating system is now just under 50 percent.

It is therefore not surprising that the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is also becoming increasingly popular.

That’s all that matters:

Criteria for vinyl flooring on underfloor heating

While there was a lot of discussion about the suitability of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating in the past, the combination has now proven itself through predominantly positive experiences.

In principle, there is absolutely no objection to the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating, provided that certain conditions are taken into account in advance:

Exact Temperature

The most decisive criterion for laying vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is whether the chosen heating system ensures reliable temperature control.

Unlike other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet or tiles, a vinyl floor reacts primarily to heat.

If the temperature rises, the material expands strongly, the heat decreases, it tightens again.

Strong temperature fluctuations or too fast temperature rises can lead to unsightly joint formation or permanent damage to the vinyl floor.

Therefore, it is important that the underfloor heating does not heat the vinyl floor too much or too quickly.

The maximum surface temperature of vinyl floor heating should not exceed 27° C.

Hot water underfloor heating vs. electric underfloor heating

The classic version of hot water underfloor heating generates heat by flowing warm water through plastic or copper pipes.

What is often seen as a disadvantage has a positive effect for vinyl floors:

The sluggish lead time of a hot water underfloor heating ensures a slow heating of the vinyl floor and thus protects the material.

In addition, the temperature in the pipes remains relatively constant between 26 and 28° C throughout the heating period.

The flow temperature – i.e. the temperature at which the water circulates through the pipes – has no influence on the vinyl floor and can therefore be quite higher.

Especially with modern low-temperature underfloor heating systems, the surface temperature can be precisely regulated by built-in thermostats.

It should be noted, however, that the installation of a hot water underfloor heating system involves relatively high effort and a certain height must be maintained for the final floor ingesis. Especially in the case of renovation work on existing buildings, the building conditions must therefore be carefully checked in advance.

Otherwise, however, hot water underfloor heating must be used without hesitation for vinyl floors.

Caution is required with electric floor heating systems.

In this variant, the heat is generated by the combination of current and voltage, which leads to a significantly faster and sometimes higher temperature increase than with hot water underfloor heating.

Although modern models also have the necessary technical requirements for temperature control, the installation of vinyl flooring on electric underfloor heating systems has not been recommended before.

Expert Heating installation

In general, the installation of underfloor heating under a vinyl floor exclusively should be carried out by a specialist.

This ensures that the substrate is prepared professionally and that any moisture in the screed has been sufficiently baked out before laying the vinyl floor.

In addition, not only must the construction height on the entire floor area be precise, but also the pipes of the underfloor heating must be installed in such a way that a uniform distribution of heat on the vinyl floor is guaranteed. Even spot heat nests can cause damage to the vinyl floor.

Special Footfall sound insulation

To ensure that the heat from the underfloor heating is ultimately transferred to the surface of the vinyl floor in an energy-efficient manner, the lowest possible thermal resistance of maximum 0.15 m2K/W is required.

In addition to the thickness of the floor and the thermal conductivity of the material, the impact sound insulation or vapour barrier used also affects this value.

For underfloor heating systems on which a vinyl floor is to be laid, special footfall sound insulation is available.

The quartz sand most contained in it stores heat and releases it to the room.

Other insulating materials such as polystyrene, cork or foam, on the other hand, prevent the heat from spreading and are therefore unsuitable for use with vinyl floors on underfloor heating .

Contrary to its previous reputation, vinyl floors achieve excellent results in terms of energy efficiency and heat performance.

Due to the low heat transfer resistance and the good thermal conductivity, rooms with vinyl flooring can be effectively heated by underfloor heating.

Which vinyl floor is designed for installation on Underfloor heating suitable?

If an adequate underfloor heating system has been found and the necessary preparations have been made, the crucial question arises as to the right vinyl flooring.

All vinyl floors suitable for installation on underfloor heating systems are specially marked.

If a vinyl floor does not have a corresponding label, a written confirmation of suitability for underfloor heating from the vinyl floor manufacturer should be obtained prior to installation.

The extent to which a vinyl floor is suitable for use on underfloor heating also depends on the design and the type of installation.

Basically, a distinction is made between vinyl on HDF carrier plates and solid or full vinyl.

Vinyl on HDF is similar to laminate and is floating using a click system. There are also click systems that are made entirely of vinyl.

The thinner full vinyl, on the other hand, consists of homogeneous planks and is only glued to the screed on a full surface.

Types of laying from vinyl flooring to underfloor heating

Basically, all types of laying work to install a vinyl floor on hot water underfloor heating systems.

However, there are differences in energy efficiency, albeit mostly minor.

Solid or full vinyl flooring, which is glued to the surface, is best suited for installation on underfloor heating.

The direct connection between the vinyl floor and the substrate using suitable adhesives and the relatively low material thickness of maximum 5 – 6 mm ensure optimum thermal conductivity.

But also the floating laying of vinyl floors on underfloor heating is possible.

However, in this type of laying, in contrast to the fully bonded installation, a thin air layer forms between the substrate and the vinyl floor, which impairs the thermal conductivity.

In addition, in the case of floating vinyl floors on underfloor heating, a footfall sound insulation is necessary, which additionally affects the heat transmission resistance.

Vinyl floors on HDF substrates, which are usually much thicker than solid vinyl floors, are particularly suitable for installation on underfloor heating less optimal.

In addition to the impact sound insulation, which is already integrated in many vinyl floorboards, an additional vapour barrier is also required for mineral substrates (e.g. cement screed or anhydrite screed) so that rising damp cannot damage the substrate material of the vinyl floor.

In any case, when laying vinyl flooring over underfloor heating, it is essential to follow the manufacturer’s specifications and installation instructions. You will also need a orderly vinyl cutter to place clean cuts.

Laying vinyl floor on tiles with underfloor heating

Often a vinyl floor is also laid on existing tiles, under which there is already underfloor heating.

This also applies in this case:

Even if it is basically possible to lay a floating (click) vinyl floor, it is recommended to use a fully glued full vinyl floor to prevent heat loss.

Is a vinyl floor on underfloor heating Harmful?

A question that until a few years ago was quite justified:

Vinyl floors used to contain harmful plasticizers, which developed toxic fumes when heated, for example by underfloor heating.

Today, however, vinyl floors in Europe are subject to strict conditions, which ensure that the use of harmful phthalates is dispensed with.

Therefore, unless an old vinyl floor is used, the laying of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating has no negative health effects.

A vinyl floor is not only convincing because of its appearance, but is also robust and easy to clean.

The quick and easy cleaning of a vinyl floor works best with a vacuum cleaner. In this article you will learn what is important for a vacuum cleaner for vinyl flooring.

Vacuum cleaner for vinyl floor (with cable):

As simple as the laying of a vinyl floor is, as robust and resistant is the surface. The material is hard-wearing and withstands even heavy use.

Nevertheless, a vinyl floor – like any other floor – must be cleaned and maintained regularly in order to maintain its long-term lifespan. Stones, sand or other dirt can permanently damage the sealed protective layer of the vinyl floor, scratch the surface or make it blunt.

Dry cleaning of vinyl floors

One of the great advantages of a vinyl floor is that it can be cleaned with relatively little effort.

Especially in daily cleaning, vinyl floors are not very demanding: Dry cleaning with a soft brace, a mop or a vacuum cleaner keeps the vinyl floor clean again in no time.

Unlike a broom or mop, the vacuum cleaner whirls up fewer fine dust particles when cleaning.

Even coarser dirt can be removed quickly and effectively with the vacuum cleaner – which is especially important in households with animals or children.

Very coarse dirt, such as stones, should be removed with the vacuum cleaner anyway, otherwise the vinyl floor could be scratched during sweeping.

Which vacuum cleaner is suitable for vinyl flooring?

Vinyl floors have a softer surface compared to laminate or tiles, which can easily cause unsightly scratches if the vacuum cleaner is handled incorrectly.

Therefore, when selecting the vacuum cleaner for vinyl floors, care must be taken first and foremost to ensure that there are no metal plates or sharp edges at the bottom of the nozzle.

Vacuum cleaners with special brush attachments are best used for cleaning the vinyl floor.

Thus, the vacuum cleaner nozzle glides gently over the vinyl floor without scratching the surface. These special attachments are available in different sizes and finishes, making it easy to reach corners and other hard-to-reach areas.

If you want to be on the safe side, use a vacuum cleaner with parquet nozzle for cleaning the vinyl floor – these are softer and also have longer bristles, which reliably prevents scratches in the vinyl floor.

Vacuum cleaner for vinyl floor (without cable):

Scratches by vacuum cleaner – what to do?

And if the vinyl floor has been slightly scratched by vacuuming, suitable vinyl floor repair kits or special PU cleaners can help. Fine scratches in the vinyl floor can also be polished out with cooking oil. To protect against scratches, you should also think of a floor protection mat. Even dust-sweeping robots usually leave fewer scratches, which makes them work completely differently.

vinyl flooring is known for its simple installation. However, in order for it to be optimally adapted to the spatial conditions, it is often necessary to cut the vinyl floor. How to cut the vinyl floor quickly and exactly and what is important for a vinyl cutter, you can find out here.

Bestseller in the category vinyl cutters:

Vinyl flooring is not only available in different decors and finishes, vinyl floorboards or planks are also available in different dimensions.

Nevertheless, it is hardly possible to lay a new vinyl floor without adapting it there or there.

Room dimensions, corners or cut-outs for heating pipes require the vinyl floor to be cut to size accordingly.

How can vinyl flooring be cut?

Most vinyl floors can generally be cut with little effort – even without special tools.

Regardless of whether it is a solid or solid vinyl floor with a relatively low material thickness between 2 mm and 5 mm or a click vinyl floor on HDF carriers with a thickness of approx. 6 mm to 10 mm.

Cut solid or solid vinyl flooring

A simple, sharp cutter knife, a pen and a cutting rail or an angle are sufficient to cut a vinyl floor made of full vinyl.

Cut vinyl floor with the cutter knife

For this purpose, the cutting edge is simply marked with a pen and the surface of the vinyl floor is cut with the cutter.

The rail ensures that both the marking and the cut are made straight and at the right angle.

With correspondingly low material thickness and a little force, a cut is usually sufficient to cut the vinyl floor exactly.

Click vinyl floor cutting

Even click vinyl floors can be cut quickly and precisely with a commercially available cutter or carpet knife – even vinyl floors with HDF carrier plates or cork.

After the interface has been marked with a pen and an angle or rail, the surface of the vinyl floor is easily carved with the knife.

If the ends of the vinyl floor plank are then pressed down – preferably at a table edge or above the knee – the click vinyl breaks at the set point and a clean edge is created.

For short fringe pieces, which can no longer be broken well by hand, it helps to bend the short side with the help of pliers.

Vinyl floor sawing

If you are not so comfortable with the cutter, you can also saw the vinyl floor in most cases.

A crosscut saw is just as suitable for straight cuts as a jigsaw.

A jigsaw can also be used to cut corners from a vinyl floor, as is required for laying on doors.

Vinyl floor sawing

Likewise, to cut holes for pipes or to set non-straight or round cuts.

However, the use of a saw is not necessary: corners, holes and curves can be cut just as well with the cutter.

Vinyl cutter – the comfortable alternative

It is even easier to customize vinyl floors with a vinyl cutter.

The practical, versatile devices, also known as laminate cutters, ensure exact cuts in no time at all, thus saving time and making work much easier.

Vinyl cutters are suitable for both adhesive vinyl and click vinyl and can cut thick and thin vinyl floors with a material thickness of 2 mm to 11 mm depending on the model.

Straight cuts are just as possible as angle cuts – most devices also have additional functions to be able to cut skirting boards or corners, for example.

Only cut-outs – such as for heating pipes – are not possible with a vinyl cutter not possible.

In principle, vinyl cutters in two versions Differences:

Manual vinyl cutters

In the case of manual vinyl cutters, the vinyl floor is cut by a blade, which is operated with a lever.

Depending on the model and the thickness of the panel, the vinyl floor can be cut precisely and without material wear by lever action with more or less effort.

Non-slip rubber feet ensure a secure grip of the device, and one hand is always free to fix the vinyl floor element in addition – moving or slipping the cutting edge is therefore virtually impossible.

Another advantage of manual vinyl cutters is that they can be operated wirelessly. They do not require power supply, can therefore be used on the go and do not cause noise or dirt.

Electric vinyl cutters

As an alternative to manual vinyl cutters, there are electric models.

These are equipped with a motor to cut the vinyl floor.

An electric vinyl cutter is especially recommended if physical exertion is to be avoided as far as possible or if large areas of vinyl flooring are to be laid in the shortest possible time.

However, the appropriate power supply must be guaranteed for motor-powered vinyl cutters – in addition, higher noise and dust generation is also created.

Vinyl cutters at a glance

Vinyl cutters are available in a wide variety of designs from a wide range of manufacturers – from the practical basic model for do-it-yourselfers to the comprehensive all-in-one device for professional use.

The models differ on the one hand naturally in price, but on the other hand also in their technical characteristics, equipment and functions.

What to look for in a vinyl cutter

The wide range of different vinyl cutters makes the decision is often not easy. However, there are some criteria that are based on the selection of the appropriate model.

  • For example, there are models that are only suitable for cutting vinyl panels or tiles, while other models are more versatile and are also suitable for laminate, parquet or precious wood.
  • There are also glaring differences in the cutting width: depending on the model, this can vary from just under 20 cm to a maximum of 46.5 cm.
  • The same applies to the thickness of the material: ideally, the vinyl cutter should be able to cut materials up to at least 10 mm.
  • Especially with adhesive vinyl it is advantageous if the vinyl cutter is equipped with a non-stick coated blade to avoid an impairment of the cut by sticky adhesive.
  • Features, such as an integrated dust bag or laser, can add value to the vinyl cutter.

The best vinyl cutters in comparison

There are many manufacturers of vinyl cutters, models even more.

Among the most famous brands of vinyl cutters are for example

  • Wolfcraft
  • Logoclic
  • Master
  • Wolf
  • Lux
  • X4 Tools
  • Kwb
  • Qteck
  • Batavia
  • Güde
  • Gmc

All manufacturers offer certain advantages to their models – be it in terms of quality, price-performance ratio, functionality or user-friendliness.

Guidance is provided by regularly carried out product tests and comparisons from various – more or less – independent portals, such as Stiftung Warentest or similar.

If that’s the way it goes, Wolfcraft is right at the top of the bestseller list with its VLC 300, VLC 800 and VNC 250 models.

But also models such as the Logoclick LE 210 or the X4-Tools laminate vinyl cutter receive best marks in ratings and price-performance ratio.

Which model is ultimately best depends on the individual requirements and the actual field of application.

Bestseller in the category vinyl cutters:

Rent vinyl cutters

If a vinyl cutter is only needed for a single use, it often does not stand for buying a new device.

Do-it-yourself stores such as Hornbach, Obi or Hellweg therefore usually also offer the possibility of borrowing a vinyl cutter.

But do-it-yourself flea markets as well as portals such as Shpock or ebay are also a good alternative: Vinyl cutters can also be bought cheaply.

vinyl flooring is considered to be a robust and resistant flooring that offers numerous advantages.

However, the laying of a vinyl floor in outdoor areas is not recommended in principle.

Find out in this article why this is the case – and which floor coverings are better suited for outdoors than vinyl floors.

While vinyl floors are absolutely convincing indoors and almost can be installed in any room, there are essential outdoor areas Influencing factors that add too much to the material:

Why is vinyl flooring not suitable for outdoor use?

Vinyl floors primarily react to heat.

When the temperature rises, the material expands considerably, and when the temperature drops, it tightens massively.

The interplay of wetness and dryness can also cause permanent damage to the vinyl floor.

In the outdoor sector, neither strong temperature fluctuations nor alternating wet and dry periods can be avoided.

Direct sunlight and extreme heat followed by the cloud-breaking thunderstorm in summer, sizzling cold, freezing fog or snowfall in winter – due to its pronounced shrinkage and stretching behavior, the vinyl floor would change the weather conditions outside, on the terrace or balcony in the long run.

Also for outdoor installation in covered plants, a vinyl floor is not provided for.

Thus, the sun can heat the ground in a conservatory to over 50° degrees, which leads to the swelling of the vinyl floor. Even the high temperature differences between summer and winter in garden houses would not be long withstand the vinyl flooring.

Even if manufacturers are repeatedly launching vinyl floor coverings on the market that have also been approved for outdoor installation, there are still alternatives that are more suitable for outdoor use.

Alternative Outdoor flooring

Floor ingescent outdoors must meet special requirements.

The different variants of outdoor floors differ in terms of appearance, required base and type of installation, as well as properties in terms of weather resistance, frost-freeness or resistance.

In addition to tried-and-tested materials such as ceramic tiles, natural stone, concrete or real wood, there are also modern surfaces made of plastic, which promise a long-lasting and easy-care flooring outdoors.

Especially artificial stone slabs or floor coverings made of WPC (Wood Polymer Composite) – a mixture of wood fibres and thermoplastic plastic – are enjoying increasing popularity. Visually and haptically, WPC boards hardly differ from their natural competitors, but are easier to install and are characterized above all by their higher resistance compared to real wood.

Contact adhesive for fixing vinyl floors to the wall

Gluing a vinyl floor to the wall is a novel and increasingly popular alternative in interior design.

This article explains what is important when installing vinyl floors on the wall.

Until now, vinyl was primarily known and proven for laying on floors.

But modern vinyl floors can also be attached to the wall.

Due to the advantageous material properties and the limitless selection of different decors, they open up a wide range of possibilities in the design of the room. However, in order to achieve a lastingly beautiful result, there are some important aspects to consider.

Which vinyl floor can be mounted on the wall?

As the demand for vinyl floors for the wall has risen sharply in recent years, the vinyl flooring market has responded.

Since the world’s leading trade fair Domotex 2018, more and more manufacturers have been offering vinyl floors that are also specially designed for the design of walls.

These products, marketed under the term Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT for short), are a cost-effective and user-friendly alternative to laminate and parquet, but especially to ceramic tiles.

Vinyl floors are generally available in two versions:

  • as solid or solid vinyl
  • or as a ready-made vinyl with click system on HDF carriers.

In principle, all vinyl floors can be attached to the wall.

Also those that are actually intended for conventional use as flooring. However, there are differences in the preparation of the substrate and in the assembly.

Glue full vinyl floor to the wall

The material of full vinyl floors is much thinner than vinyl on HDF.

If a full vinyl floor is to be fixed to the wall, the substrate must therefore be completely flat and smooth.

Otherwise, bumps would penetrate the wall, resulting in unsightly dents in the vinyl floor.

However, the thinner material also has advantages: it is easy to process and easily cut against the wall with a sharp knife.

A full vinyl floor is usually mounted in planks that are attached to the wall.

In order to ensure long-term durability, the full-surface bonding with a suitable adhesive is most suitable.

The use of a double-sided adhesive tape or the attachment of the vinyl floor to the wall with nails is not recommended.

Joints and transitions can be filled and sealed with silicone. This also makes the vinyl floor on the wall water resistant, making it suitable for use in bathrooms.

Fixing click vinyl floor ingtotheis on the wall

Unlike full vinyl floors, click vinyl floors forgivable minor bumps in the underground due to their higher strength.

If a click vinyl floor is to be attached to the wall, it is therefore not absolutely necessary to spat it absolutely smoothly beforehand – dry and even the substrate must still be.

The assembly of click vinyl floors requires some practice:

The boards can be connected relatively easily by the click system, but still have to be attached to the wall with a suitable adhesive at the same time.

It is best to glue the click vinyl floor from bottom to top on the wall so that the boards can support each other.

In addition, the expansion and shrinkage behaviour of the Click vinyl floor must be taken into account:

In the edge area, so-called expansion joints must be released so that the material can work accordingly.

These joints play a crucial role, especially in click vinyl floors on HDF carriers, as otherwise unsightly joint or dent formation can occur during moisture or heat exposure due to e.g. solar exposure.

Is a vinyl floor on the wall also possible in the bathroom?

A major advantage of vinyl flooring on the wall is that it is water-resistant and can be applied to almost any existing substrate.

Accordingly, it is particularly popular with the renovation of bathrooms, because the elaborate, noise- and dirt-causing removal of existing tiles can be dispensed with.

When selecting the vinyl floor for the wall, care must be taken to ensure that it is specifically approved for use in wet rooms.

In addition, it must be ensured that the substrate is sealed against water and moisture.

However, this should already be the case with existing tiles on the wall, so that a new sealing is not required. With fully glued vinyl flooring on the wall, the joints can be easily sealed with silicone.

For click vinyl floors, the groove and spring provide waterproof joints, but expansion joints must remain in the edge area.

Suitable vinyl floors are basically water-resistant, so that neither splash water nor prolonged water exposure damage the surface.

Appropriate sealing of the substrate also prevents mold formation under the vinyl floor on the wall due to penetrating moisture.

With what glue can the vinyl floor on the wall be fastened?

In order to glue vinyl flooring to the wall, it is recommended to use contact adhesive, which is applied to the substrate and vinyl floor. Contact adhesives are easy and safe to use – both planks made of full vinyl and click vinyl planks adhere immediately to the substrate and cannot slip.

As an alternative to the contact adhesive, special polymer adhesives can also be used.

Regardless of the product, the adhesive must in any case match the weight and thickness of the vinyl floor on the wall – and the adhesive strength must not be caused by evaporating ingredients such as water or solvents.

In wet rooms, the vinyl floor should only be attached to the wall on a polymer-based basis, as these can also be water exposure ensure long-lasting durability. From self-adhesive Vinyl floors on the wall are generally discouraged in the bathroom because the dry adhesive is not geared to this.

Regardless of which adhesive is used, make sure that the wall is dry, clean and level before the vinyl floor can be fixed to the wall.

Recommended repair sets from this article:

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vinyl floors are considered to be resistant and robust, but they are not indestructible.

Heavy furniture, excessive strain or small household accidents can leave their mark. In this article you will learn how best to repair damage to your vinyl floor.

How can damage be caused to the vinyl floor?

The typical damages of vinyl floors can basically be divided into three categories:

  • damage to the surface, such as scratches, grinding marks, cuts or holes
  • dents or bubbles and
  • Detachments at corners and edges.

While damage to the surface is often caused by carelessness or excessive stress, the causes of the other two types of damage are sometimes insufficient processing quality or moisture penetration.

How does the repair of vinyl floors work?

A major advantage of vinyl floors is that most damages can be repaired relatively easily – even without expert support.

The actual amount of repair work required depends on the type and severity of the damage.

In the case of minor damage, vinyl flooring can be repaired by treating only the affected area, while in the case of larger or more serious damage, the damaged flooring must be replaced.

Remove scratches and grinding marks

Whether by moving a heavy piece of furniture or a small stone in the sole of a shoe – punctual excessive stress can cause scratches, sanding marks or small cuts on the vinyl floor.

A suitable vinyl floor repair set helps with superficial damage: The repair fluid applied with a sponge or cloth fills and seals minor scratches or cuts in the vinyl floor.

The repair kit thus prevents the damage from spreading to deeper layers of the soil.

Sanding marks on the surface can also be retouched with special PU cleaners or care products – these act like a polish, making unsightly scratches paler.

In addition, the vinyl floor receives the necessary care.

It is important that the damaged area is thoroughly cleaned before repair so that the effect of the sealing or polishing is not impaired by dirt or dust.

fill in the hole

A hole in the vinyl floor not only impairs its appearance, but also carries the risk of mould growth due to moisture entering the floor. This is a problem especially with vinyl floors in the bath.

It is therefore essential that it be repaired quickly. To do this, the damaged area is best cut out of the floor and replaced with a precisely fitted counterpart made of leftover vinyl flooring.

It is essential to use a metal bar and a very sharp knife to ensure clean, smooth cuts.

It is even easier to use a punch, which simply punches out the damaged area.

Then the edges of the inserted repair piece are covered with adhesive tape and the resulting cracks are filled with cold welding agent. When this is dry, the seams are hardly visible.

TIPP: If there are no more remnants of the vinyl floor, the hole can also be sealed with repair wax (actually intended for wooden floors) or silicone in the appropriate colour.

Another alternative are special repair sticks available in specialist shops, which are welded to the floor.

Remove bubbles

If the vinyl floor throws bubbles, there can basically be two reasons for this: air pockets during installation or water damage.

In order to be able to repair the vinyl floor, the underlying cause should therefore first be determined.

To do this, the bladder is cut open with a sharp knife and lifted.

If the substrate of the vinyl floor is dry, the repair can be started immediately; if, on the other hand, it is damp, the area must be completely dry before taking any further steps.

To remove the bulged area, clean the subfloor and the raised vinyl floor plank, spread new vinyl floor adhesive evenly over it with a spatula and replace the plank.

After removing excess glue from the edges with a clean cloth, the repaired area is smoothed with a rolling pin so that it is fully bonded.

Until the adhesive is completely dry, the area is fixed with a heavy object (e.g. a stack of books).

Re-glue corners and edges

Loose corners and edges are basically repaired in a similar way to bubbles.

In this case, the vinyl floor is not cut open, but is instead opened up to the point where it is still completely stable.

However, care must be taken not to cause kinks. With the help of a hair dryer, old adhesive residue can be easily warmed and removed before applying new adhesive and pressing the vinyl floor firmly back on.

How can severely damaged vinyl floors be repaired?

In the event of extensive or more serious damage, it is recommended to replace the vinyl floor completely at this point.

With floating laid vinyl floors, individual planks can be removed very easily, as there is no fixed connection with the subfloor.

But even glued vinyl flooring can be replaced without any problems: To do this, the damaged vinyl plank is cut out evenly with a sharp knife and removed.

Lines in the decor or existing joint lines serve as orientation aids and facilitate the exact adjustment of the replacement part later.

For floor elements that are difficult to remove, the heating of the adhesive with a hair dryer is an effective remedy.

Unless an entire vinyl floor plank is replaced, the removed floor piece serves as a template for cutting the new element to size and shape, as well as for the decor and the colour.

This is particularly important for vinyl floors that have arched patterns.

In the next step (for floating floors) the longitudinal and transverse springs on the replacement plank are removed and the adhesive is applied evenly (see video above).

While the glue is drying, the repaired area should be weighted down so that the floor does not bend.

To protect the floor from scratches in future, you should also use a office chair underlay for chairs with castors .

Helpful household remedies for small damages

Even if the repair of vinyl floors is basically not an unsolvable task – it is even better if it can be avoided completely.

For example, through simple tricks or proven household remedies like these:

  • With cooking oil fine scratches in the surface can be polished out without much effort.
  • For dark vinyl floors, such as walnut, scratches can also be treated with dark shoe polish or special repair sticks.
  • Wax drops are best removed with a plastic spatula. Stubborn residues are being attacked by hairdryers and blotting paper or paper towels.
  • The hair dryer also serves its purpose in the case of dents or bumps: simply warm the affected area in the vinyl floor until the floor becomes soft, remove the bruise with a rolling pin or wallpaper roller or weigh down the heated area with a suitable object.
  • Rubber abrasion – for example from dark shoe soles – is best removed with PU cleaner.
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Whether new construction or renovation – the choice of suitable covering often does not only concern the floor area, but in many cases also includes the stairs.

A vinyl floor is a proven alternative to other materials when it’s covered with stairs, because it convinces in many ways.

The advantages of a vinyl floor staircase

Material

The material properties of the vinyl floor make stairs particularly robust and resistant, even when exposed to heavy loads.

Vinyl floors are abrasion-resistant, UV-resistant and easy to clean, which is particularly important for stairs in hallways or in households with children and pets.

Moreover, vinyl is very soft and elastic, which is easy on the joints when climbing stairs. Allergy sufferers also benefit from stairs made of vinyl floors, as these are antibacterial.

Applications

Vinyl flooring can be laid on any staircase, provided the substrate is clean, level and suitable for full-surface gluing.

The different material thicknesses of vinyl floors allow installation on stairs with different heights.

This is why a vinyl flooring is suitable both as a covering for newly built stairs made of concrete, as well as for the renovation of existing stair flooring made of wood, laminate or stone.

Single shortcoming: Vinyl floors are not weather-resistant and are therefore only suitable for indoor stairs.

Optics

Vinyl floors are available in a wide variety of looks and designs. The range of decors extends from light to dark, from single-coloured to marbled – also wood optics or stone optics are available.

As a result, vinyl floors offer correspondingly creative freedom to optimally integrate the stairs into the room image.

Lay vinyl flooring on stairs: What are the options?

Laying a vinyl floor on stairs requires relatively little effort.

With the appropriate equipment and the necessary craftsmanship, vinyl floor stairs can be quickly and easily renovated or manufactured on their own.

There are basically two possibilities:

  • The stairs to dress up with a classic vinyl floor
  • or special prefabricated stages.

Stairway with vinyl floor dressing

To give a room a harmonious overall picture, stairs can be clad with the same vinyl décor as the rest of the floor. This can consist of either vinyl on HDF carrier plates or full vinyl.

For installation on the stairs, ready-made vinyl floorboards or loose vinyl floor ingesses are tailored precisely to the dimensions of the individual steps (each viewing and treading surface).

Then the adapted vinyl floor elements are attached to the step surfaces.

In the case of full vinyl, a full-surface bonding is absolutely necessary.

Vinyl floors on HDF carriers can also be used with double-sided adhesive tape. Self-adhesive vinyl floors can of course also be attached to the stairs.

It is only important that the vinyl floor on stairs is always permanently connected to the ground, so that nothing can slip.

This applies in particular to vinyl floors, which are generally suitable for floating installation.

The edges, where the visible and tread surfaces collide, are finally clad with (mostly self-adhesive) angle profiles.

Special cover rails ensure visually attractive transitions to other floor coverings. For example, unclean edges caused by the vinyl cutter can be covered.

Vinyl flooring pre-stage systems

Various manufacturers offer various products as installation-friendly solutions for vinyl floor stairs.

Here are some examples:

Tilo

Tilo offers two solutions for vinyl floorstairs.

In the more flexible version, any vinyl floor boards are connected to a suitable step-edge profile by means of a practical click system. Step depth and length do not play a role here, as stair steps can be individually adapted and tailored to the corresponding stair dimension.

The maintenance-free stepped edge profiles are available in two versions (1 x or 2 x wrapped) as well as in all structured surfaces and decors and vinyl floor colours. With their low thickness of 10 mm, Tilo vinyl floorboards are particularly suitable for renovating existing stairs. With cork inlays on the underside of the planks, a vinyl floor impact sound insulation is also already integrated.

Tilo’s compact stair steps make installation even less effort.

Steps are compact for both renovations and new buildings, as they are available for different floor thicknesses and in two formats (for straight and curved stairs).

Hafa Stairs

Hafa has an optimal solution for renovation work on high-stress stairs.

Thanks to the usage class 43, vinyl steps from Hafa can withstand extreme loads and are therefore also suitable for business premises and public facilities.

The modular vinyl renovation stages are available in different decors and five widths, but only with a straight front edge. The vinyl floor stairs are mounted with stabilizing rails and special adhesive.

Primashop

Vinyl levels from Primashop also correspond to the usage class 43 and are accordingly robust.

Due to the high quality standards in cooperation with selected German premium manufacturers, Primashop pursues the motto “professional quality for self-making”.

Available in various design lines, decors and finishes, the stair steps can be configured and ordered online according to individual requirements.

The products in the online shops of Tresabo or Conceptfloor. are similarly structured

What costs can I expect for stairs with vinyl flooring?

No blanket statement can be made about the cost of a staircase with vinyl flooring.

The financial effort depends on the nature of the stairs and the substrate as well as the material or system used.

While the price of cladding stairs with a classic vinyl floor varies greatly depending on the manufacturer and design of the floor, when using a prefabricated system, it is possible to calculate a guideline value of at least 80 to 120 euros per stage.

vinyl floors are easy to install – and almost as easy to remove again.

However, depending on the age, condition and installation technique of the floor, there are a few things to consider. Learn below how best to remove your vinyl floor and dispose of the residue properly.

What is important when removing vinyl floors

If a room is to be redesigned or renovated, this often includes the replacement of the floor covering.

Vinyl floors are relatively easy to remove yourself, as long as a few important aspects are taken into account.

Laying technique

How time-consuming the removal of a vinyl floor is depends primarily on how it is laid.

Floating or loose laid vinyl floors are easier to remove than glued .

And again, it makes a difference whether the vinyl is fully bonded or self-adhesive.

Age and condition of the soil

The age and condition of the floor also play a role, as the materials used and installation techniques have changed over the years.

While vinyl flooring adhesives used today are becoming more and more efficient and are therefore harder to separate from the substrate, older floor coverings are usually already more worn and brittle, which makes them more easily tear/break when removed.

Special care should be taken with vinyl floors (actually PVC floors) from the 70s and 80s: These may contain asbestos and should therefore only be removed with appropriate protective equipment.

Work preparation

Before starting the dismantling process, it is therefore essential to find out the date of origin of the vinyl floor and how it is attached to the subfloor.

Suitable work clothing as well as any necessary protective equipment (mouthguards, goggles, etc.) – and above all the right tools (cutter knife, spatula, etc.) should also be prepared in advance.

Remove floating vinyl floor

Floating vinyl flooring is very easy to remove as it is not fixed to the subfloor.

In the first – and at the same time most complex – work step the (glued, nailed or screwed) skirting boards are dismantled. Afterwards, the removal of the floor can be started.

Relatively little effort is required for vinyl planks with click system. These can easily be removed row by row and – with the appropriate care – even reused if necessary.

If necessary, the footfall sound insulation and the vinyl floor underlay is removed in a final step, provided that this is no longer required for the new floor covering.

Remove glued vinyl floor

It is a little more complicated when removing glued vinyl flooring.

Although this can also be removed with relatively little effort, adhesive residues usually stick to the substrate and must be removed additionally.

Subdivide floor into individual pieces

If it is vinyl flooring (actually PVC flooring), the floor should be cut into even, narrow strips with a sharp knife or cutter.

If the vinyl consists of individual planks, it can be removed again without prior subdivision.

The individual elements can be grasped more easily with a lever tool or spatula and lifted or detached with less effort.

Ideally, you should start to remove the flooring at the corners by pushing a spatula under the flooring and removing the floor.

It is quite possible that the vinyl will crack again and again and the putty must be reapplied.

Stubborn adhesions can be loosened more easily by heating them with a hair dryer, but electrical spatulas or machine carpet strippers also make the work much easier (ask at the hardware store / rental park).

In addition, special multi-milling machines can also be hired from DIY stores. These are particularly suitable for particularly old coverings and substrates that have been filled several times, as they not only completely remove the vinyl floor including the adhesive layer, but also work their way up to the firm base layer of the subfloor.

Remove vinyl floor from tiles

Often there is already a floor covering underneath the vinyl surface, which is to be uncovered again in the course of renovation.

If, for example, you want to remove a vinyl floor from tiles, a particularly careful procedure is required to avoid damaging them.

Remove adhesive layer

Once the vinyl floor has been completely removed, in most cases an adhesive layer remains.

If a new flooring is laid on top of it, it is sufficient to roughly remove the adhesive residues and then grind it down with a single-disc machine.

If a new bought vinyl flooring is then to be laid, the usual procedure for the preparation of the subfloor is necessary.

However, if the vinyl has been removed to reveal the underlying flooring, the adhesive must be thoroughly removed.

It works best with an electric spatula and a hot-air dryer, which is used to warm up the adhesive residues.

Alternatively, the adhesive can also be moistened and scrubbed with methylated spirit or a turpentine substitute solution.

Dispose of vinyl flooring

Once the vinyl floor has been successfully removed, the remaining residues raise one last crucial question: Where to dispose of?

As vinyl floors are made of artificially produced PVC, they must not be thrown into normal household waste, but disposed of properly.

This is especially true if the material in question is old and contains asbestos.

Vinyl waste can either be delivered directly to material yards or taken away from bulky waste collection.

In both cases, it is advisable to contact the responsible disposal company in good time to find out any restrictions that may apply (size or quantity of vinyl residues) and to arrange a date for delivery or collection.

In addition, the respective waste recycler will provide information on the costs of disposing of the vinyl flooring.

Slicone sealants for sealing joints in vinyl floors

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Joints in vinyl flooring are not only unattractive to look at, but sometimes also carry the risk of permanent damage. In the following, you will learn what you should therefore already consider when laying vinyl flooring and what you can do if joints in the vinyl floor open up.

What causes joints in the vinyl floor to fall apart

Like many floor coverings, a vinyl floor reacts to different room conditions.

The material works – joints are created or dissolved.

In most cases the reasons for joints in the vinyl floor are either heat or moisture.

Heat

While parquet and laminate floors are primarily sensitive to moisture, vinyl floors primarily react to heat.

The material expands strongly when the heat is affected and reassembles when the temperature drops. The result is diverging joints.

Especially often joints are created in the vinyl floor in rooms with large windows or direct light. The sun’s irradiation leads to a sharp increase in the temperature on the surface – and consequently to the expansion of the vinyl floor.

With darker soils this effect is even more obvious than with brighter soils, as these reflect sunlight better.

But even with underfloor heating systems, the vinyl floor expands more, which is why it is essential to ensure that the surface is not heated too quickly or too highly.

Moisture

Incoming moisture and subsequent drying also cause joints to rise in the vinyl floor.

Especially in rooms with high humidity or direct contact with water (e.g. B. with vinyl flooring in the bathroom) this can cause permanent damage or mould growth.

Which avoids joints in the vinyl floor

Due to its material properties, the vinyl floor needs sufficient leeway to work.

Therefore, it is important to insert a expansion joint at the time of installation. This applies wherever the vinyl floor meets immovable components (e.g. walls, pipes, columns, built-in furniture) or other floor coverings.

This expansion joint serves to compensate for the elongation and pulling of the material and to allow joints to diverge only where it is intended.

The rule of thumb for the edge distance is at least 5 mm or, in large rooms, 1 mm per metre of length.

Vinyl floor gets joints – what to do?

There are several ways to close joints in the vinyl floor. Various products are available from specialist retailers to fill, glue or seal joints.

Elastic materials – e.g. silicone – are best suited to fill joints in the vinyl floor. They remain permanently flexible, which allows the soil to expand accordingly and contract again.

Corresponding joint fillers are available in numerous different colours and compositions. Therefore, they are versatile and are ideal for closing joints in the edge area.

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It can also be used to seal transitions to connection joints in doors, skirting boards or stairs.

Sealing joints waterproof is particularly important for vinyl floors in wet rooms to prevent moisture from entering.

Massively laid vinyl can be easily sealed with silicone, e.g. in the edges and connections to tiles, but this is not recommended for floating floors.