Joints in parquet are nothing out of the ordinary and usually there is neither inferior material quality nor poorly executed laying work behind them. Nevertheless, parquet joints are often perceived as annoying. In the following article you can read why parquet joints are not bad in themselves and what you can use to fill joints in your parquet .

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

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What creates joints in the parquet?

The main cause of joints in the parquet is the natural swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the natural floor covering. Wood is a natural product that has hygroscopic properties.

This means, it binds water vapour from the air and releases it again, which changes both the wood moisture and the volume of the material depending on the room climate.

This behavior is called swelling and shrinkage – or colloquially formulated: The wood works.

The optimal conditions for parquet are at a room temperature of 20 to 22°C and a relative humidity of 55 to 60%.

In this indoor climate, professionally laid parquet hardly works and therefore has no joints.

Even if the annual average values are maintained, it is still inevitable that they will be exceeded in summer and undercut in winter. Because parquet always adapts to the ambient climate. The bonding of parquet with parquet adhesive can help a little. This somewhat reduces the swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Especially during the heating period, the air in heated rooms becomes drier, the moisture in the wood decreases, the parquet disappears and joints are created.

How pronounced these can be depends, among other things, on the type of laying: floating parquet works more strongly than glued parquet because the parquet panels only lie loosely on top of each other, whereas with full-surface gluing they are firmly connected to the subfloor.

However, the type of wood and the type of parquet also play a role: parquet made of beech or maple tends to have a higher swelling and shrinking behaviour than, for example, oak.

Are joints in the parquet a deficiency?

In general, joints in the parquet are quite their purpose in view of the inevitable source and shrinkage of the wood.

They give the parquet the necessary room for expansion without damaging the floor. However, a distinction must be made between intended and unintended joints.

By intentional joints are to be understood those joints, which were deliberately placed in order to achieve an optimal result in the laying of the parquet.

For example, when laying parquet in the edge areas or wherever the floor is applied to immovable elements such as doors, stair connections, heating pipes or heavy furniture, appropriate expansion joints must be taken into account in order to compensate for tensions of the parquet .

However, if joints occur between the individual parquet elements, these are often not wanted.

Nevertheless, these can hardly be completely avoided – especially with solid parquet there will always be fugue formation.

Accordingly, joints with a width of between 0.1 and 0.5 mm (for parquet on underfloor heating systems up to 0.8 mm) are considered perfectly normal.

If the joint width is between 0.5 and 1 mm, this can be considered a conspicuity, joints over 1 mm are ultimately outside the tolerance range.

However, it is always necessary to take into account the circumstances in which the joints occurred.

In most cases, a expert is consulted in these cases, who clarifies in an expert opinion whether the exceeding of the tolerance limit was caused by the laying work or by other influencing factors, such as lack of measures to control or regulate the air humidity or incorrect heating and ventilation behaviour.

The dimensional tolerances are regulated in the standards ATV DIN 18356 Parquet work and DIN 18202 Tolerances in building construction.

Should parquet joints be filled?

While expansion joints in the edge areas usually disappear behind skirting boards, joints remain visible on the surface of the parquet.

Older parquet, in particular, often has relatively large joints, which is due on the one hand to the previously usual laying distances and on the other hand to the factor time.

However, even relatively newly laid parquet can, for the reasons mentioned above, lead to more joints, especially in winter.

These can not only negatively affect the appearance of the parquet, but sometimes develop into dirt traps that are difficult to clean or – with the appropriate width – to annoying stumbling blocks.

It is therefore perfectly sensible to repair and fill parquet joints. If there are only small dents or scratches in the parquet, these can be repaired with a parquet repair set and melting wax.

Which parquet joint fillers are available?

For filling joints in the parquet floor, there are basically different options that are used depending on the joint width to be able to.

Fugue kitt for parquet

For narrow joints, fugue kit is a proven option. This can also be easily made from wood glue and sawdust itself by mixing both components into a tough mass.

The paste is then applied to the joints with a spatula and, after complete drying, sanded down with a sanding machine or sandpaper and resealed.

It is optimal if the joints are repaired within the scope of the parquet renovation.

The grinding dust caused by the grinding process is excellently suited for the production of joint putty and also has the same colour as the parquet.

Alternatively, special joint fillers in different colours can be purchased from specialist retailers. For example, joints can also be deliberately filled in a contrasting colour to give the parquet a new look.

As joint filler is relatively liquid, it is in principle only recommended for joints up to a maximum width of 5 mm, as it can otherwise run out of the joints.

Acrylic-based joint fillers

If wider joints are to be repaired, special acrylic-based joint fillers are the better choice. These are also available in different colour variants and remain permanently elastic even after filling the joints.

This preserves the necessary flexibility so that the parquet can continue to work.

In principle, these properties also apply to silicone. Acrylic joint fillers are still preferred.

This is because, in contrast to silicone joint sealing compound, acrylic joint sealing compound can also be sanded down and painted or oiled without any problems. Due to its brittle consistency, hard or melting wax is also recommended only for removing defects in hardwood flooring and not for filling joints.

In order to achieve an optimal result of the acrylic joint fillers, the joints should first be carefully cleaned.

In doing so, any remaining joint fillings must be removed completely and the joint must be made dust-free with a parquet vacuum cleaner.

In order to work cleanly, it is recommended to glue the edges of the joints with painter’s crepe. This gives the joints an exact closure and avoids unnecessary contamination of the parquet.

For the application of the joint filler, a cartridge press is best used, with which the joint mass is inserted into the joint up to about 1 – 2 mm via plank level, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If the joint filler is dry, this supernade can be cut off or sanded and the joint sealed. Care must be taken to ensure that the products used are compatible with the joint mass.

Filling joints with wooden strips

Regardless of the composition, joint fillers generally have a limited service life of around 10 years.

After that, the joints should be refilled. However, if you want to fill joints for longer, you can also repair them with wooden strips. However, this method involves significantly more work.

In the first step, the joints must be brought to the same width with a knife or planer. Afterwards, the cut and adapted wooden strips with wood glue and wooden hammer are inserted into the joint. Any supernatry is then sanded and the surface sealed.

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

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A floor is exposed to high loads every day. Due to its robust and resistant material properties, parquet is therefore one of the most popular floor coverings.

However, in order for your parquet to withstand these stresses over a long period of time, it needs the correct cleaning and care. In this article you will learn how to maintain the different types of parquet properly and what is important in this respect.

What is the surface of the parquet?

Its surface is decisive for the optimal cleaning and maintenance of parquet.

Various types of surface finishing protect parquet from dirt, moisture and wear.

Parquet can either be oiled or waxed or lacquered .

Depending on the method, the parquet has differences in its resistance and therefore requires different care.

For oiled or waxed parquet, the surface of the floor is protected by applying parquet oil or wax.

The natural raw materials do not form an additional layer on the parquet, but penetrate into the wood and the surface is impregnated.

This keeps the pores of the wood open and breathable, which largely preserves the naturalness of the parquet and has a positive effect on the room climate.

However, loads on oiled or waxed soils can act directly, increasing the need for care.

In the case of lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the surface is completely sealed by applying parquet lacquer.

The additional protective layer makes the floor more robust and resistant to stress and is easier to maintain compared to oiled or waxed floors.

Initial maintenance of parquet

If parquet has been newly laid or freshly sanded, an appropriate initial care is recommended for oiled surfaces.

For this purpose, the parquet is treated with special parquet care oils after careful cleaning from dust and dirt (office chair mats, carpets or similar must be removed beforehand).

These ensure that the wood pores open completely and tannic acid in the wood is neutralised, making the parquet less susceptible to stains and scratches.

In the case of painted parquet, initial maintenance is not necessary in principle. However, in order to make the floor even more robust and resistant, a special parquet Polish can still be applied to the surface.

Regular cleaning of parquet

The basis for a long beautiful looking and well-kept parquet is the regular cleaning, which is basically the same for all parquet surfaces.

Ideally, parquet parquet should be cleaned dry in the first place. To remove loose dust or dirt, it is best to use a broom or a dry cotton cloth. When cleaning with a vacuum cleaner, it is essential to ensure that it is equipped with a parquet-compatible brush , otherwise scratches can easily occur.

For more thorough cleaning, the parquet should be wiped moist regularly.

It is important that not too much water is used, but that the parquet is only cleaned damply .

Carefully wrensed wipe covers made of pure cotton are optimally suited – a slinging system or a wipe press prove to be very helpful.

For oiled parquet, a small amount of wood floor soap should be added to the mopping water.

Due to the regreasing ingredients contained therein, such as coconut or soy fats, not only coarser dirt can be removed more easily, but the parquet is also additionally maintained during every swipe process.

For wiping with wooden floor soap, besides a bucket with the soapy water, a second bucket with clear water should be ready by flushing out the dirt.

As an alternative to wood floor soap, a oil fresher can be used at regular intervals (approx. every fifth wipe) to refresh the protection of the initial care.

The moist cleaning of painted parquet basically works the same as with oiled parquet. Only special paint soap is used as a cleaning agent instead of the wood floor soap.

Refreshment of parquet care

Even with careful cleaning, the daily stress leaves traces on the parquet floor over time.

Whether oiled or sealed parquet – unsightly signs of wear or minor damage such as scratches or stains can not be completely avoided on any surface.

Depending on the intensity of the stress, intensive cleaning and a refreshof of the parquet care are therefore required sooner or later.

Oiled Maintaining parquet

In order to maintain the protective oil layer as long as possible, the oiled parquet should be thoroughly cleaned regularly with an intensive cleaner and a single disc machine with black pad.

The surface of the parquet is then refreshed with care oil. Parquet care oil is available in both natural and different shades.

By refreshing the oil treatment, the wood becomes saturated and dulled parquet looks as if freshly laid again. The maintenance of oiled parquet should be repeated in living spaces every 2 to 4 years, or more often in the case of heavy use.

Sealed Maintaining parquet

In order to slow down the abrasion of the paint layer by dirt and dust particles, a temporary refresh is also necessary for painted parquet.

For this purpose, the parquet is first thoroughly cleaned with a suitable intensive cleaner and then applied a layer of undiluted paint care. The special care products contain polymer dispersion that reduces abrasion, refreshes the floor and masks minor scratches.

Parquet Care against scratches and stains

One of the most important differences between oiled and painted parquet is the handling in case of damage.

For stubborn stains, undiluted special cleaners are used for oiled surfaces, for varnished floors there are special intensive cleaners or stain removers. Turpentine or methylated spirits are also very useful for stains on sealed parquet.

In the case of scratches in the parquet, the effort is greater with painted parquet.

While fine scratches or cracks in the lacquer can be repaired with special repair kits, deeper scratches or other major damage requires sanding and resealing the entire parquet surface.

In the case of oiled parquet, however, this is not necessary. Even larger scratches or other damage can be partially repaired with relatively little effort.

For this purpose, only the affected area is sanded and a new layer of oil is applied. Fine scratches can also be removed with care oils or furniture polish.

Care products for parquet: This is what matters

Care products for parquet are available from numerous manufacturers in a wide variety of designs in DIY stores and specialist retailers.

The most well-known brands include

  • Dr. Schutz
  • Poliboy
  • Tilo
  • Haro
  • Woca
  • u. from above

Which products is best suited for the respective parquet always depends on the coating used. When purchasing the care product, care must be taken to ensure that it is suitable for the respective parquet surface. In addition, the product should not contain silicone oils or mineral oil derivatives if possible.

Better are care products with water-soluble and regreasing polymers or waxes.

Decisive for the selection of the appropriate parquet care is always the manufacturer’s care instructions. In most cases, it also contains specific product recommendations or is their own product series from the manufacturer.

The best tips for protecting, care and cleaning Parquet

  • Protect the parquet against too much dirt by placing protective mats in front of the door and not entering the floor with street shoes. It is best to use slippers or walk barefoot.
  • In particular, sharp, hard objects, such as small stones and sand, or shoe heels can quickly damage the parquet. Therefore, coarse dirt should be removed as soon as possible.
  • Fasten felt gliders to furniture, armchairs and table legs or use suitable floor protection mats in places subject to heavy use, such as desks. This will prevent pressure marks or scratches.
  • In order to protect the parquet floor from water or too much moisture, you should preferably not place houseplants directly on the floor. Use waterproof pots or plant rollers instead.
  • A balanced indoor climate also protects the parquet floor. Therefore, make sure that a humidity between 35 and 45 % and a constant room temperature between 20 and 22°C.
  • It is best to clean your parquet mainly dry with a soft broom or a dry cotton cloth. If you are using a vacuum cleaner, make sure you have a parquet-compatible brush.
  • It is essential that you only wipe the parquet with a damp cloth – preferably with a lint-free cotton mop. If water puddles appear, they must be dried as quickly as possible so that the moisture cannot penetrate the wood.
  • Use only special cleaning and care products that are explicitly suitable for your parquet. This applies to regular cleaning as well as intensive cleaning and care.
  • When cleaning your parquet floor, completely avoid microfibre cloths and aggressive cleaners or abrasive cleaners. Also steam cleaners are rather not suitable for parquet and may – if at all – only be used for fully glued, hard sealed parquet.
  • Get expert advice about the special requirements of your hardwood flooring in terms of cleaning and care. In addition, it is essential that you follow the care instructions of the manufacturer and keep the instructions of your parquet manufacturer carefully.

The full-surface gluing of parquet forms the basis for a stable and durable floor, because the fixed connection with the subfloor provides significant advantages.

However, gluing hardwood flooring involves considerable effort. What is important when gluing parquet and which parquet adhesive is the right one, you will learn in this article.

Parquet adhesive recommendations from this article:

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What are the advantages of sticking parquet?

In recent years, the parquet floor seems to have lost some of its importance.

Because many house and apartment owners prefer the floating installation of modern pre-finished parquet, which is faster and less complicated and also usually more cost-effective.

However, if you want to benefit from the advantages of a high-quality and stable floor in the long term, you should still stick the parquet.

Because the gluing of parquet has some decisive advantages:

Due to the fixed connection, parquet adheres firmly to the subfloor for decades, which also makes it easier to sand down and renovate more than once.

Furthermore, glued parquet is also quieter:

impact sound and other noises when using the floor are transmitted less.

Another decisive advantage over floating installation is particularly relevant for parquet on underfloor heating systems:

the gluing process does not create air cushions between the parquet and the subfloor, which improves the thermal conductivity It should be noted, however, that glued parquet cannot be removed so easily if the floor is to be replaced at some point.

What parquet adhesives are there?

The right parquet adhesive is of course decisive for an optimum result when laying glued parquet.

Not every glue is equally suitable for every type of parquet. When purchasing the parquet adhesive, therefore, it is first and foremost important to ensure that the product is matched to both the substrate and the parquet floor to be used.

Manufacturer’s instructions and installation instructions provide important information about this and should therefore be closely monitored.

Due to the continuous development of the adhesive industry, parquet adhesives have improved in recent years.

Most of the products available in specialist shops have not only become more user-friendly in handling and higher quality in terms of adhesion, but also pass the eco-test .

While until a few years ago the proportion of solvents and other controversial ingredients in many parquet adhesives was still very high, there are now a number of ecological products that are equally harmless to humans and the environment.

Well-known manufacturers of parquet adhesives, who are also test winners in various independent product comparisons, are, for example:

  • Retol
  • Ponal
  • Brücol
  • Wakol
  • Sika
  • Stauf
  • Haro
  • Uzin
  • Ardex
  • Schönox
  • Bona
  • Bostik
  • Thomsit
  • u. from above

In general, a distinction can be made between the following parquet adhesives Be:

Silane-based adhesives

The most modern type of parquet adhesives are hybrid adhesives made of MS polymer (modified silane). They are free of solvents, water and isocyanate and are also weather and UV resistant.

This is why they are becoming more and more important and are increasingly replacing solvent adhesives, which are now banned. Silane parquet adhesives are distinguished above all by the fact that they remain permanently elastic after curing and offer the parquet a corresponding scope for swelling and shrinkage. This is why MS parquet adhesives are also universally applicable and suitable for gluing almost all parquet types as well as for use on underfloor heating systems.

Reaction resin adhesives

Reaction resin adhesives also belong to the universally applicable parquet adhesives. These are available both as 1-component PUR adhesives and as 2-component PUR adhesives. While 1-component parquet adhesives remain elastic after curing and are therefore also suitable for bonding stress-bearing parquet, 2-component PUR adhesives cure inelastically and are therefore mainly recommended for shear-resistant parquet laying.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion parquet adhesives are also still widely used – especially for the shear-resistant bonding of solid parquet, as they do not give the floor any more room to move after curing. They are mainly water-based and use little or no solvents. However, dispersion adhesives are not quite so easy to use. When laying the parquet, for example, a certain time window must be observed in which the adhesive shows its optimum adhesive properties. It should also be noted that the water content in the adhesive may possibly lead to increased swelling of the parquet.

Powder adhesives

These parquet adhesives consisting of plastic powder or plaster or cement as well as various fillers are also solvent-free adhesives. The powder to be mixed with water is suitable for the laying of low-stress parquet types such as mosaic or multi-layer finished parquet.

Parquet glue with solvents

In addition to the above-mentioned modern parquet adhesives without solvents, there are also some solvent-based products on the market. However, these should – if at all – only be used in individual exceptional cases. In principle, the use of such parquet adhesives is not recommended.

Beware of old parquet adhesives!

Particular care should be taken with older parquet, as the parquet adhesives used at the time may contain harmful ingredients.

Until the 1970s, for example, black parquet adhesive made of coal tar was frequently used , which can contain demonstrably carcinogenic substances such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) or polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).

Parquet glued in this way can be dangerous, for example because of a defective sealant:

Because the harmful substances contained therein, such as benzo(a)pyrene, enter the room air via fine cracks in the parquet surface and bind to dust.

However, it is not immediately necessary to remove the floor if there is black glue under the parquet.

However, regular and careful inspection of the parquet surface and a dust test should be carried out to prevent the release of the substance.

However, if you want to be on the safe side, not only must the parquet be completely removed, but also the screed underneath must be chiseled out completely, since abrasive of the black adhesive is not possible due to the dust formation.

In addition to PAH and PCBs, old parquet adhesives may also contain asbestos, which can be released, in particular by demolition or grinding work. Renovation of hardwood flooring with asbestos-containing adhesive should therefore only be carried out by specialist companies, which have been trained accordingly in handling harmful substances.

Gluing parquet: That’s what matters

The basic requirements for gluing parquet are a dry, clean and even substrate as well as optimum room conditions with a temperature of at least 16°C and 40 to 60% humidity.

Before actually starting to glue the parquet, the first three rows of the parquet should first be fitted without parquet adhesive.

In this way, the individual elements can be cut to size and any changes made to the direction of installation.

It is also advisable to become familiar with the application of the parquet adhesive before on a chipboard. In principle, modern parquet adhesives are easy to apply, but handling the putty requires a little practice.

When the parquet is bonded, step by step should be taken.

Since most parquet adhesives have a certain processing time (usually about 30 minutes) in which they have the optimum adhesive strength, only the section should be coated with adhesive on which parquet can also be laid during this time.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the adhesive will decrease and the parquet adhesive will have to be removed again.

What is the best way to apply parquet adhesive?

The parquet adhesive is applied fully and evenly to the respective floor section.

Applying the parquet adhesive works best with a serrated trowel with triangular teeth. Which serration the trowel should have depends on the type of parquet adhesive and the parquet to be laid.

The required thickness of the parquet adhesive and the recommended trowel notch size is normally indicated in the adhesive application instructions.

In addition, there are also generally valid recommendations as to which tooth fillers should be used for the different types of parquet.

These are as follows:

B3: Mosaic parquet, 8 mm parquet

B5: 2-layer parquet up to 60 cm length, Lamparkett

B9: Finished parquet, 10-mm parquet, multi-layer parquet

B11: strip parquet up to 120 cm long, multi-layer parquet up to 60 cm long

B12: Boarded parquet, planks up to 60 cm, multi-layer parquet over 60 cm long

B15: Wooden paving, solid floorboards from 120 cm length and 12 cm width

How much parquet glue is needed?

To calculate the consumption of parquet adhesive, the common recommendation is to calculate with 1.2 kg per square metre.

However, the exact consumption can vary considerably depending on the product and type of parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the thickness of the parquet adhesive to be applied should be checked before purchase.

A further calculation basis is to multiply the order quantity of the tooth filler by the number of square meters of the parquet to be laid.

How much do parquet adhesives cost?

Actual costs for the calculated amount of parquet adhesive also depend on the respective product. For example, low-cost dispersion adhesives are available for as low as 3.50 euros per kilo, synthetic resin adhesives cost an average of around 7 euros per kilo, while high-quality parquet adhesives made of reaction resin cost more than 10 euros per kilo.

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Remove parquet glue

If parquet is laid glued, sooner or later it is also the removal of the parquet adhesive. How much effort is involved depends on the parquet adhesive used and the type of parquet.

In order to remove smaller adhesive residues from the freshly laid parquet, simple cleaning cloths with a small amount of solvents are usually sufficient.

Alternatively, the residues – possibly previously warmed with a hair dryer – can also be treated with conventional cooking oil.

Furniture polish, erasers made of natural rubber or pure orange oil can also help, as can special adhesive removers, brake cleaners, acetone or spirits.

Larger quantities of parquet adhesivecan to be sanded with a grinding machine. It is important to remove the excess parquet adhesive as soon as possible during installation, because after a maximum of 12 hours most adhesives are completely cured.

However, if full-surface adhesive residues are to be removed after the removal of glued parquet, the procedure is much more complex.

Parquet lacquer effectively equips the parquet for the daily influences. The parquet surface is sealed by the applied lacquer layer and receives the necessary protection. What is important when lacquering parquet, what types and manufacturers of parquet lacquer there are and what needs to be taken into account when sealing parquet can be found in the following guide.

Recommended parquet sealants from this article:

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What is painted parquet?

In order for parquet to receive the necessary protection against external influences, a corresponding surface finish is required.

It makes the wooden floor more resistant and robust, protects it from dirt, moisture or wear and tear and also gives the parquet the final touch to its appearance.

Parquet can either be finished with oil, wax or lacquer – which method is best depends on the degree of wear and tear and the personal demands on the parquet.

Pros and cons of lacquered parquet

In contrast to the refinement with oil or wax, which merely impregnates the parquet surface, the wood is fully sealed with parquet lacquer full surface .

The applied lacquer forms an additional protective layer on the parquet floor, which effectively protects the floor from dirt, abrasion and moisture.

Accordingly, painted parquet is considered to be more robust than oiled parquet.

Also with regard to parquet cleaning and parquet care, sealed parquet scores higher than impregnated parquet.

The painted surface is generally easier to clean and requires less post-treatment.

However, damage to the parquet varnish due to the full-surface sealing is not so easy to repair.

In contrast to oiled parquet, it is more often necessary to sand down the parquet and re-varnish it.

In addition, some of the naturalness of the floor is lost due to the parquet lacquer: the painted protective layer closes the pores of the wood and – unlike with oiled parquet – can no longer “breathe”.

In terms of the indoor climate, an oiled floor sometimes proves to be more advantageous, but the pleasant living atmosphere is maintained even with painted parquet.

What types of parquet lacquer are there?

Whereas parquet varnish used to have the reputation of being highly solvent-containing and therefore harmful to health and the environment, this is no longer the case today with parquet sealants not anymore.

Most modern parquet lacquers are water-based with a very low solvent content of up to 15%.

The term water-based paint refers to the high water content of around 55 to 70 % in which the paint components are dissolved.

Water-based parquet varnish means, however, that the varnish is water-soluble or that the parquet sealant reacts more sensitively to water.

Water varnishes are also particularly recommended because they are easy to process and apply and also have a very high resistance to abrasion and chemicals.

According to the composition and protection intensity, the water-based parquet lacquers as follows:

1-component parquet lacquer

Conventional 1-component parquet lacquer usually consists of plastic (acrylate) or synthetic resin dispersion. The 1K parquet sealant offers the floor a solid basic protection. However, acrylates can become brittle and, especially in places exposed to strong light or permanent water exposure, they can flake off or crack after a few years.

2-component parquet lacquer

Parquet varnish of the 2-component sealing is additionally enriched with a so-called hardening component before application, which reacts chemically with the varnish. By curing the two components, the parquet sealant becomes considerably more resistant and more robust against abrasion or scratches. However, 2K lacquer not only offers higher quality protection, but also hardens more quickly, which means that the parquet can be walked on earlier.

3-component parquet lacquer

In addition to parquet varnish and hardness components, a 3-component parquet sealant also contains additional UV protection, which protects the parquet from UVA radiation – similar to the principle of a sun cream. This prevents the parquet from yellowing or darkening excessively, which is why 3K Parquet Varnish is particularly recommended for light floors.

Alternative parquet seals

Also as 1K and 2K parquet lacquers, lacquers are polyurethane base. These are also referred to as pur or DD coatings However, seals are highly solvent-containing and lose less harmful water-based parquet lacquers. The previously widely used oil-resin parquet sealing: these too oil-based method was characterized by the high proportion of solvents have now been completely replaced by water paints.

How does parquet sealing work?

No matter which parquet lacquer is used – the sealing works for all by evaporation of the ingredients in different order.

In the case of water varnishes, first the water and then the binder evaporates, creating the paint layer. In polyurethane parquet coatings, the protective layer is formed by evaporation of the solvents and chemical reaction of the residual synthetic resins, which is sometimes associated with a biting smell that evaporates only slowly.

Shiny or matte?

Compared to oil, varnish offers a slightly different design leeway in terms of the appearance of the parquet.

Because parquet lacquer is hardly coloured, only occasionally manufacturers offer parquet lacquer in white.

However, you can vary how shiny the parquet should be: Most parquet lacquers are available in matt, silk matt or high gloss. However, if the floor is to be changed in colour, e.g. to refresh old parquet that has yellowed , the parquet must first be stained with stain or oil coloured . Only then can it be sealed with parquet lacquer.

Best parquet lacquer: This is what matters

The differences between the individual products lie in their exact composition, the intensity of protection and of course the price. Accordingly, the area of application also plays a role when it comes to buying the suitable parquet lacquer.

The cheapest variant is 1K parquet lacquer. They are easy to apply and provide adequate protection for low-stress parquet against damage. However, they are limited in their service life and are therefore not particularly suitable for rooms with high stress, exposure to water or solar radiation.

Due to the faster hardening and higher resistance to scratches, 2K parquet lacquers are optimally suited for hardwood flooring subject to average wear and tear, such as in living rooms.

The higher costs are compensated for by the longer service life and better protection.

For rooms with high solar radiation and heavy use as well as for stairs, high-quality stair and parquet lacquer on a 3-component basis should be used. Although this is relatively expensive, it not only protects the parquet from yellowing or darkening, but also constantly withstands the constant loads, e.g. from climbing stairs.

Buy parquet lacquer – Manufacturer at a glance

Well-known manufacturers of parquet lacquers, which are also used in various tests with a good price-performance ratio, are Such as:

  • Bona
  • Highlight
  • Remmers
  • Wilckens
  • Renovo
  • Loba
  • Pallmann
  • Baufix
  • Zweihorn
  • Brillux
  • u. from above

How much parquet varnish is required for the sealing depends on the parquet or wood species in question.

More varnish must be applied for parquet made of raw wood than on a floor with a primer.

Even hard wood types require less parquet lacquer than soft wood, as it sucks more strongly.

In principle, a guideline value of approx. 1.2 litres of parquet lacquer for 10 m2 parquet per lacquer layer applies. However, in order to ensure optimum protection, the parquet varnish should not only be applied once, but ideally three times.

It should be noted that the parquet lacquer represents only a small part of the total cost of the parquet sealing.

The major part of the price for parquet sealing – provided it is carried out by a specialist – is accounted for by the working time which is incurred due to the necessary sanding of the parquet.

Saving on parquet varnish therefore makes relatively little sense – above all, because products of lower quality increase the risk that the protective layer will wear out or be worn out more quickly, making it necessary to apply a new parquet sealant earlier.

Parquet painting: step by step

In the course of a renovation, a new layer of parquet varnish will bring out the full splendour of the wooden floor. It may also be necessary to apply parquet varnish when laying a new floor. It is essential to ensure that the parquet adhesive is fully cured beforehand.

Varnishing hardwood flooring is certainly a demanding task, but with a little practice and skill it can also be carried out by do-it-yourselfers themselves.

For an optimal result of the parquet sealing, following instructions should be followed.

Preparation: Grinding and cleaning the parquet

Before the parquet can be repainted, it must be completely sanded.

Prior to this, furniture and skirting boards must be removed from the room so that the entire surface can be worked on unhindered.

When sanding the parquet, care must be taken to ensure a uniform and careful procedure – the surface should be sanded down to the raw wood. Smaller dents can be repaired with parquet joint filler or with a parquet repair kit.

Then the fine dust that has accumulated must be thoroughly removed from all surfaces – preferably with a vacuum cleaner or broom.

The parquet must be completely free of dust particles.

The sanding dust can, however, be used to repair scratches or joints in the hardwood flooring: To do this, simply mix the dust with joint cement to a mushy mass, fill in any damage, allow to dry and then treat with a sanding machine or sandpaper until no more joint cement is visible.

2. Apply the primer

A parquet primer must first be applied to the sanded raw wood.

For this purpose, the parquet lacquer is carefully stirred and applied uniformly and systematically with a roll on the parquet.

When applying the parquet lacquer, direct sunlight should generally be avoided and the room temperature should be between 18 and 25 degrees.

In order not to obstruct the work process, it is best to start in the rear part of the room opposite the exit and work in even sections of about 2 m to the door.

In order to create a smooth and even coating layer, the primer is distributed once against the laying direction on the parquet and the same section without additional absorption of parquet varnish is coated again in the direction of the boards (so-called “finishing”) .

The individual sections should overlap slightly. Beware of lug marks when starting and stopping the roll!

If the entire floor surface is painted, the primer must first dry for about 2 to 3 hours. Now you can start applying the paint layers.

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3. Apply parquet varnish in several layers

The procedure is the same as the one used in the primer. When applying the paint, it should be done quickly so that the paint cannot dry too quickly.

Two coats of lacquer are sufficient for hardwood flooring subjected to average wear and tear, while for more heavily used areas three coats of parquet lacquer should be applied to provide additional protection. The parquet should also be sanded before each subsequent coat of lacquer if it has been dried for more than 24 hours. On this point, however, the manufacturer’s instructions must be observed and are binding for every seal.

When can the furniture be repositioned after painting the parquet?

After a drying phase of the parquet varnish of approx. 8 hours, the floor can be walked on again, furniture can be set up after 24 hours. The parquet lacquer is completely hardened after approx. one week – solid furniture or carpets should therefore be waited until then. You should wait up to 14 days before applying carpets or office chair pads.

With a hardwood flooring in the living room, a wide range of possibilities in interior design are opened up. Floors made of the natural raw material wood are not only robust and durable, but also ensure a healthy room climate and a pleasant living atmosphere. The personal requirements are decisive for the choice of the optimal parquet. Find out in this article which parquet is optimal for living rooms and how the parquet can significantly influence the overall impression of the room.

how Parquet in the living room works

The floor is the most important element in the interior design. Depending on its appearance, colour and texture, parquet in combination with the furnishings gives the living room a very individual character. Therefore, the decision for the optimal parquet should be carefully considered and some influencing factors should be taken into account.

Wood

Which wood is suitable for the hardwood flooring in the living room depends, among other things, on the stress to which the floor is exposed. In general, the harder the wood, the more robust the floor is. For heavy-duty applications, hardwoods such as oak, ash or walnut are therefore particularly suitable, as are medium-hard wood types such as pear and birch, maple or cherry are optimal for average loads, while soft woods such as spruce or pine are more recommended for living rooms with low frequency.

Parquet art

An essential feature of parquet is the construction.

Parquet can generally be divided into solid or single-layer parquet and finished or multi-layer parquet (2- or 3-layer parquet). The various parquet types differ not only with regard to the recommended type of installation, but also in their thickness and thus in their service life. This is because the thickness of the parquet is essential when it comes to how often the floor can be renovated by abrasive sanding.

Laying type

In general, hardwood flooring in the living room can either be glued full-surface or laid floating . The type of installation depends on the type of parquet and the room conditions. For example, in living rooms with underfloor heating parquet glued over the entire surface (with parquet glue) should always be preferred, as it has better thermal conductivity.

Color

Parquet is available in a wide range of colors and shades – from light to dark, from yellowish to reddish to brown.

Various surface treatments can also be used to change the natural colour of the wood. Dark floors absorb the light but also add warmth to the room, while light floors reflect the light and make the room appear larger. On the other hand, stains and smaller damages are more quickly and easily visible on light-coloured floors in the living room than on dark parquet.

Sorting

Since each wood differs in grain, colour and structure, there are also parquet floors for living rooms in different sortings. The parquet elements are available in order to standardise guidelines with regard to astone closures, cracks, cinden growths, colour and grain in order to achieve the overall uniform result of the soil.

The sorting has no effect on the quality of the parquet, but on the overall appearance of the living room. So it makes a difference whether the parquet in the living room is quiet and discreet, lively or rustic with many visible branch holes or corresponding patina sorted.

Formats and optics

The different formats of parquet also give the living room an individual appearance and also influence how large a room looks.

In the classic Landhausdiele look, the characteristic properties of the respective wood species are retained thanks to the large format and uniform surface of the parquet floorboards. It makes a room appear elegant and optically larger.

A livelier and more dynamic spatial image can be achieved, for example, through the offset arrangement of short bar elements in the ship floor look. In general, the recommendation is to use wide, long planks or 1- or 2-plank parquet in large living rooms, whereas 3-plank parquet gives a more optimal picture in smaller living rooms.

Laying direction

The visual effect of the living room can also be significantly influenced by the laying direction of the parquet.

While longitudinally laid parquet emphasizes the room shape of the living room and stretches it optically, transversely laid parquet makes the room appear wider. In addition to the installation direction itself, however, natural light sources, such as large window fronts in the living room, must also be taken into account. Thus, when the light is moved in the direction of the window, the light is optically directed into the center of the room – parquet laid across the light source, on the other hand, accentuates the characteristic appearance of the parquet.

Surface treatment

The nature of the surface of the hardwood flooring in the living room mainly affects the resistance and care requirements of the floor.

Oiled or waxed parquet is merely impregnated and the pores of the wood remain open, while the surface of lacquered parquet is sealed over the entire surface sealed. Accordingly, sealed hardwood flooring in the living room is even more robust and less susceptible to dirt and damage than oiled or waxed parquet.

Surface finishing

Its final appearance is given to parquet different techniques of surface finishing. The parquet surface can be brushed, shaded or planed, leached or limed. Depending on the The type of finishing results in a characteristic structure of the parquet or can consciously produce different color variants within a wood type to become.

In contrast to surface treatment, the surface finish of hardwood flooring in the living room has pure optical effects.

Furnishing style and personal taste

A expert advice on the different effects of the many different types of parquet should always form the basis of any decision. In addition, the respective style of furnishing or the interior of the living room also plays a role. Ultimately, however, personal taste is still the decisive factor in choosing the ideal parquet for the living room.

When a new floor is laid, additional height is usually to be expected.

For example, if a carpet flooring is removed and replaced by a hardwood flooring, the subfloor structure grows from 4 mm to 15 mm. To ensure that the doors can continue to be used, the door must be shortened.

In addition, the door frames should be trimmed to a suitable height before the laying of the wooden floor.

Instead of defacing the transition with unsightly silicone joints, the parquet can then be simply pushed under the frame (only partially recommended for click parquet).

Tool list

  • Diving circular saw
  • Fine multimaster or door trimmer
  • Fine sanding paper
  • Stechbeitel & Hammer

Adapt the door frames to the parquet

Video: How to shorten the door frame (door lining)

To find the right height for the door frame, all you need is a piece of the top covering (e.g. a single bar oak parquet).

This piece will not be used later, as it usually gets some scratches.

The parquet rod is now placed directly on the screed on the door frame.

It is important that the parquet rod is directly attached to the frame. If there is a distance between them, the saw blade likes to deviate downwards and the frame is cut off at an angle.

If you don’t have a Multimaster or similar, you can also use a Japanese saw and a little bit of hand feeling.

Once the frame has been sawn through, remove the loose parts with a chisel (“stemmeisen”) and a hammer.

One should be careful not to damage the veneer, for example.

Once the excess is removed, the parquet rod is pushed under the frame for a sample. If everything fits, it goes to the next frame.

Machines for shortening the door frame (door lining)

Shorten the door: Bring the door leaf to parquet height

In order to use the door leaf as usual and so that it does not swipe on the parquet floor, it is facilitated by the additional flooring height.

In most cases, it is only a few millimetres of the door that need to be shortened.

The most common problems with shorten door are

  • Finding the right height
  • Prevent the guide rail from slipping
  • Finding a safe stand for the door leaf
  • Prevent the “diswelling” on the saw cut

So that the above problems are no longer any more, proceed as follows:

  1. When the parquet floor has been installed, the door is hung briefly. The door hinge now measures how many millimetres the door protrudes. This is the height, which must be shortened at least on the door leaf. If the parquet floor or the subfloor is uneven, several adjustments should be expected.
  2. To prevent the door leaf from slipping, we set up two sufficiently wide folding stands. These must be the same height and should be wrapped with a blanket or similar (to avoid scratches).
  3. To shorten the door we use not a jigsaw. A plunge-circular saw with guide rail should always be used here. The guide rail of a good dipping circular saw (e.g. Festo, Bosch etc.) can be fixed with a screw clamp. This means that we place the guide rail on the door leaf and then fix it with one screw clamp each on the left and right.

Shortening the door – video guide

To prevent the door leaf fraying out when sawing with the plunge-circular saw, the following possibilities exist:

  1. Glue the place with a Tesa adhesive tape beforehand (dangerous with painted doors, as the paint can be removed with)
  2. “Scratching” with a sharp cutter knife, along the rail
  3. Place the diving circular saw on the rail and start. Then dip the saw blade very easily (2-3mm) and first drive along the rail with the saw. This has a similar effect to scribbled with the cutter, but in any case hits exactly the cutting line. Now the cut can be performed in the second gear and full depth.

Once steps 1 to 4 have been completed, it is necessary to test whether the door leaf is still swiping on the parquet floor. If so, steps 1 to 4 must be performed again.

If not, place the door leaf on the painting blocks one last time anyway. In order to prevent the veneer from fraying or tearing off later, you should now break both cut edges with a fine sandpaper.

That’s it – the door is shortened and now it can be hooked up again.

Machines for shortening the door (door leaf)

parquet is a robust and durable floor covering. Nevertheless, it can happen that a new floor is desired in the course of renovation or remodelling and laminate is chosen. The question then arises as to the correct procedure for laying laminate on hardwood flooring.

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

In general, it should be noted that laminate can not be laid on every type of parquet.

Only fully glued parquet is suitable as a subfloor for the new floor – in this case there is nothing to prevent direct installation.

Laying laminate on floating parquet is not recommended. In this case the parquet should first be completely removed before the new floor can be laid.

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

Apart from the fact that the parquet must be fully glued, there are a number of other factors involved in the laying of laminate must be taken into account on parquet:

Just like the screed when laying a new floor, the parquet must be clean, dry and level before the laminate can be laid on it. Larger unevenness should be levelled in advance by sanding or filling with levelling compound. However, minor unevenness of approx. 1 to 2 mm can usually be compensated with a impact sound insulation for parquet .

The impact sound insulation is highly recommended for laminate on parquet because the combination of the two floor coverings would otherwise be very noisy.

Moisture-permeable insulating materials such as cork or cardboard are suitable. It is even easier if a laminate with integrated footfall sound insulation is used.

A vapour barrier, on the other hand, should not be used for laminate parquet always. Parquet is a wooden floor that absorbs or releases moisture. This could easily cause waterlogging under the PVC film, which would result in permanent damage to the floor.

In order to achieve more stability of the floor, the laminate should be laid crosswise to the existing parquet. It should be noted, however, that light incidence can cause a changed joint pattern.

The use of click laminate is recommended, as this is not only relatively easy to install without expert help, but can also be removed again without leaving any residue, as it does not have to be glued.

Since laminate expands and contracts again with temperature fluctuations, expansion joints should be taken into account when laying laminate on hardwood flooring. This gives the floor the necessary clearance without causing undesirable joint formation or dents.

If laminate is laid on hardwood flooring, this changes the construction height, or thickness of the flooring. It may therefore be necessary to shorten door frames or leaves accordingly. Height differences at transitions can be laminated with profiles.

A spilled glass or a bucket that has fallen over – water can quickly get onto the hardwood flooring due to minor inattention and cause unsightly water stains. This article will show you how best to remove them.

How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Prolonged water exposure does not be good for the parquet.

Because the soil from the natural raw material wood reacts to moisture. In order to avoid damage in the parquet, water laughter should therefore be avoided in general.

Should an accident nevertheless occur, the following applies: The faster the water is wiped up, the better.

If it is removed in a timely manner, no undesirable consequences can be feared due to the wetness.

However, if water remains on the parquet for a longer period of time, it can penetrate into the joints and lead to increased swelling of the floor. Water stains also only occur if the wetness can penetrate the parquet.

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Water stains on the parquet are annoying because they affect the appearance of the floor.

The good news is, however, that damage caused by water spots in the parquet can be repaired relatively well. Depending on whether it is a bright or a dark water stain or oiled or lacquered parquet, there are different approaches.

Remove bright water stains

Bright water spots are only superficial – the water has not penetrated into the interior of the parquet.

Bright water stains can be easily removed from both painted and oiled parquet floors.

No aggressive cleaners are necessary, simple household remedies are completely sufficient in most cases:

Simply apply water-dissolved baking soda or salt, white toothpaste, lubricating soap or paint gasoline to the bright water stain in the parquet and remove with a soft cloth.

The cleaned area can then be treated with oil or sealed sealed.

Remove dark water stains

Dark water stains indicate that the water has penetrated the parquet and reacted with the tannic acid contained in the wood (for oak parquet and acacia). This is why the removal of dark water stains in hardwood flooring is different from the removal of light-coloured stains. The actual cost depends on whether the parquet has been oiled or varnished.

Oiled parquet

In the case of oiled parquet, it is possible to treat the water stain with special tannic acid stain sprays even without pre-treatment and to remove light water edges with it.

The more complex, but also more reliable method is to grind down the affected area and re-oil it. In the case of very small stains, it is also possible to cut out the area with a cutter knife and then repair it with a parquet repair kit.

The oil layer must first be removed – this works best with coarse sanding paper.

When the water stain is reached, use fine sandpaper to avoid sanding too much of the surface. The water stain can be treated with even sanding movements until it is no longer visible. Afterwards, the fine dust produced is removed with a vacuum cleaner and a new layer of oil is applied. Visible transitions/gloss differences between old and new oil layer can sometimes be adjusted with steel wool. Often the colour differences disappear after a few years by themselves, through the regular use of parquet care. Finally, the entire parquet should be treated with suitable care products.

Painted parquet

In principle, this method is also possible to remove water stains from lacquered parquet. However, partial sanding always leads to colour differences in the parquet, as the floor darkens over time. Therefore, in such cases the complete parquet floor must actually be sanded down. This is the only way to avoid differences in colour and gloss.

If an existing floor covering of tiles is to be replaced with parquet, this is generally possible without removing the old tiles.

However, there are a number of important aspects to consider when laying parquet on tiles. The following article will tell you what these are.

Which parquet is for laying on tiles Suitable?

Multilayer parquet is best suited for laying on tiles.

Due to its construction in several layers, less tension is transferred from the parquet to the underlying tiles.

But also the laying of solid parquet is possible in principle. However, in this case it is advisable to use a decoupling pad (e.g. fleece) as a transition between tiles and parquet, as this reduces the voltages occurring.

The best choice for solid parquet is oak, as this type of parquet has relatively low swelling and shrinkage behaviour compared to other parquet types – even in damp conditions – and works correspondingly less.

What is to be done in the preparation of the tiled floor Note?

With the tiled floor itself, it is advantageous if it is as large, stable tiles as possible. Mosaic tiles are suitable for laying of parquet less good, as the many joints make it easy to deformations of the parquet.

Before parquet can be laid on tiles, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is necessary to clean the tiles thoroughly in the first step and remove all dirt and residues of care products, otherwise a separating layer may form and the parquet adhesive may not hold properly.

Furthermore, the substrate for laying parquet on tiles must be flat and solid.

Therefore, it is necessary to check carefully whether the existing tiles still adhere accordingly to the substrate.

The best way to find out is to tap every single tile. If hollow-sounding or loose tiles are discovered during this process, they should be removed together with tile adhesive seam and the resulting gaps in the floor filled with filler.

The tiled floor is then sanded and – if necessary – a 2-component epoxy resin primer is applied as an adhesion bridge. This is too smooth on its own after drying to absorb a levelling compound. Therefore the primer must be sprinkled with quartz sand directly during application. This is the only way to ensure mechanical bonding of the filler to be applied afterwards.

The final and decisive step in laying parquet on tiles is theapplication of a suitable levelling compound, with which joints and other unevenness in the tiled floor are levelled.

Only when the substrate is completely dry, flat and solid can the parquet be laid on the tiles. The prepared work requires the greatest care, so that there are no undesirable problems when laying the parquet.

It is therefore generally advisable to have parquet laid on tiles by a specialist.

Parquet on tiles: fully glued or floating Moved?

Basically, parquet can be laid on tiles both full-surface glued as well as floating . In both cases, dismantling is not possible, as the tiles are severely affected by the preceding preparations and are no longer visually appealing.

In general, experts recommend full-surface gluing of parquet to tiles using parquet adhesive, as this type of installation has certain advantages:

Due to the fixed connection with the substrate, fully glued parquet ensures a pleasant kicking feeling and also prevents sound transmission.

Therefore, in this case, footfall sound insulation is not necessary. With floating installation, on the other hand, the parquet only lies loosely on the tiles and thus amplifies the sound. Accordingly, it is essential to ensure effective impact sound insulation for this type of installation.

In addition, a vapour barrier is required for floating parquet on tiles in order to be able to absorb any moisture on the substrate.

It should be noted that the floor construction with floating laid parquet on tiles becomes considerably higher due to the required steam barrier and impact sound insulation than with fully glued parquet.

As a result, there may be unsightly height differences at transitions to other floor coverings or doors may have to be shortened.

In rooms with floor heating, floating parquet on tiles is not recommended. The additional layers have a strong thermal insulation effect and lead to a reduced thermal conductivity of the floor.

There is no right or wrong for the laying direction of parquet.

However, it is crucial that the overall impression and atmosphere of the room are significantly influenced by this. The following article gives you an overview of how the laying direction of parquet affects a room – and what you should consider when making your decision.

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Basically, a distinction can be made between three variants in the laying direction of parquet:

  • Along
  • Across
  • or diagonal.

Depending on the size of the room, the structural conditions and the light incidence, a room acquires its own character.

Room size

The size of a room can be visually consciously influenced by the installation direction of parquet.

The laying of hardwood flooring on the long side emphasizes the room shape. So if the parquet is laid in the direction of the longer side of the room, the room looks even longer. By laying the parquet across the floor, however, rooms appear wider.

In itself, even wide spaces achieve more depth effect when transversely laid, while narrow, long corridors are optically shortened and widened – and thus appear more even. If, on the other hand, a installation takes place in the direction of space, the room is additionally “stretched”.

In addition to the laying direction, the dimensions of the parquet elements, or the parquet type also affect the visual size of the room.

The following principle applies: The larger the parquet parts, the smaller the room.

If a room is to be enlarged visually, it should therefore be used in return for small-format parquet.

If a room is not to be emphasized in either direction, cube patterns or cassette shelves are optimal. These appear neutral in any room, regardless of whether they are laid parallel to the walls or at a certain angle.

The classic herringbone parquet is also suitable if neither longitudinal nor transversely laid parquet is desired.

Light

In living rooms with windows, the interplay of natural light incidence and installation direction of the parquet also plays a role in terms of the spatial effect.

If the parquet is laid in the direction of the primary light source, the light is optically directed to the centre of the room and refracts less, so that joints in the parquet are hardly visible.

If, in contrast, the parquet is laid transversely to the light source, these not only appear wider, but also joints, shocks and graining of the wood are more pronounced by the refraction of light.

If the characteristic appearance of the parquet is to be consciously underlined, it is therefore recommended to cross-laying, if it is to remain more discreet, longitudinal laying is the better choice. It should also be noted that when the parquet is laid across, not only the texture of the wood is underlined, but also unevenness or possible signs of wear and tear become more visible.

Building conditions

Walls and ceilings as well as the direction of support beams can also have an effect on the optimal installation direction of parquet.

If differently laid room elements cross, the room appears restless, which in turn can have a negative effect on the living atmosphere. Therefore, different directions of laying should be avoided as a matter of principle.

In addition, in nailed dressing floors, such as they are often used in very large rooms, longitudinal direction is preferred, as this meets the spring and shrinkage behavior of the parquet.

In order to be able to allow for the expansion joints required for floating installation, care should also be taken when choosing the direction of installation to ensure that the parquet does not extend beyond door thresholds, but is laid individually in each room.

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Unless special structural conditions make a particular installation direction necessary, design aspects and personal preferences are in the foreground of the decision.

However, since the laying direction of parquet is of great importance in terms of the character and atmosphere of a room, as mentioned above, the final decision should be taken by the owner.

In addition, it can be quite helpful to test the effect of the laying direction on site using several wooden strips or parquet samples before parquet laying or to simulate this virtually on the computer using special interior design programs.