There is no right or wrong for the laying direction of parquet.

However, it is crucial that the overall impression and atmosphere of the room are significantly influenced by this. The following article gives you an overview of how the laying direction of parquet affects a room – and what you should consider when making your decision.

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Basically, a distinction can be made between three variants in the laying direction of parquet:

  • Along
  • Across
  • or diagonal.

Depending on the size of the room, the structural conditions and the light incidence, a room acquires its own character.

Room size

The size of a room can be visually consciously influenced by the installation direction of parquet.

The laying of hardwood flooring on the long side emphasizes the room shape. So if the parquet is laid in the direction of the longer side of the room, the room looks even longer. By laying the parquet across the floor, however, rooms appear wider.

In itself, even wide spaces achieve more depth effect when transversely laid, while narrow, long corridors are optically shortened and widened – and thus appear more even. If, on the other hand, a installation takes place in the direction of space, the room is additionally “stretched”.

In addition to the laying direction, the dimensions of the parquet elements, or the parquet type also affect the visual size of the room.

The following principle applies: The larger the parquet parts, the smaller the room.

If a room is to be enlarged visually, it should therefore be used in return for small-format parquet.

If a room is not to be emphasized in either direction, cube patterns or cassette shelves are optimal. These appear neutral in any room, regardless of whether they are laid parallel to the walls or at a certain angle.

The classic herringbone parquet is also suitable if neither longitudinal nor transversely laid parquet is desired.

Light

In living rooms with windows, the interplay of natural light incidence and installation direction of the parquet also plays a role in terms of the spatial effect.

If the parquet is laid in the direction of the primary light source, the light is optically directed to the centre of the room and refracts less, so that joints in the parquet are hardly visible.

If, in contrast, the parquet is laid transversely to the light source, these not only appear wider, but also joints, shocks and graining of the wood are more pronounced by the refraction of light.

If the characteristic appearance of the parquet is to be consciously underlined, it is therefore recommended to cross-laying, if it is to remain more discreet, longitudinal laying is the better choice. It should also be noted that when the parquet is laid across, not only the texture of the wood is underlined, but also unevenness or possible signs of wear and tear become more visible.

Building conditions

Walls and ceilings as well as the direction of support beams can also have an effect on the optimal installation direction of parquet.

If differently laid room elements cross, the room appears restless, which in turn can have a negative effect on the living atmosphere. Therefore, different directions of laying should be avoided as a matter of principle.

In addition, in nailed dressing floors, such as they are often used in very large rooms, longitudinal direction is preferred, as this meets the spring and shrinkage behavior of the parquet.

In order to be able to allow for the expansion joints required for floating installation, care should also be taken when choosing the direction of installation to ensure that the parquet does not extend beyond door thresholds, but is laid individually in each room.

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Unless special structural conditions make a particular installation direction necessary, design aspects and personal preferences are in the foreground of the decision.

However, since the laying direction of parquet is of great importance in terms of the character and atmosphere of a room, as mentioned above, the final decision should be taken by the owner.

In addition, it can be quite helpful to test the effect of the laying direction on site using several wooden strips or parquet samples before parquet laying or to simulate this virtually on the computer using special interior design programs.

If the decision has been made in favour of parquet as a floor covering, it is not only the design and decor of the parquet that is important. The necessary attention should also be paid to the appropriate footfall sound insulation.

In this article we have summarised why this is so important, what its tasks are and what is important when choosing the best impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring. We have already written an article elsewhere on the subject of impact sound insulation for vinyl floors.

Why is footfall sound insulation so important for parquet?

The most important task of footfall sound insulation in parquet is primarily an acoustic one, because every strain on the parquet causes a noise.

A distinction is made between walking sound and impact sound. While walking sound is only perceived in the room itself, footfall sound is also transmitted over walls and floor to surrounding premises.

Whether steps, armchair backs or the vibration of the washing machine – without appropriate footfall sound insulation, any use of the parquet would also be heard in rooms adjacent to the respective room with hardwood flooring by the way, above or below.

For this reason, footfall sound insulation as a minimum requirement for sound insulation is now also mandatory.

Regulated in the DIN 4109 “Noise insulation in building construction”, the regulations on impact sound insulation serve to protect people in surrounding living and working spaces from unacceptable sound transmission.

However, this regulation only applies to new buildings, old buildings are currently excluded from the requirements for sound insulation.

However, footfall sound insulation is useful in all rooms, so that not every step can be heard throughout the house.

Above all floating parquet vibrates with every movement and thus behaves like a resonance body that transmits the impact sound to the screed underneath and thus amplifies it even further.

However, even without any clearance between the parquet and the subfloor – as is the case with parquet glued over the entire surface parquet – a noise is generated which can be counteracted with impact sound insulation.

Other functions of impact sound insulation under parquet

In addition to sound insulation, footfall sound insulation under parquet fulfils other tasks.

Depending on the material used, unevenness in the subfloor can thus be compensated to a certain extent, which ultimately ensures a more even result when laying parquet.

Furthermore, parquet insulation also protects against rising cold from the subfloor and therefore has an additional thermal insulation effect, although impact sound insulation cannot replace adequate insulation .

What materials are available for parquet footfall sound insulation?

In the search for impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring, there are various solutions that are often referred to in the trade as impact sound insulation mats or parquet underlays .

All products have in common that the parquet is protected by the impact sound insulation and that it can be laid floating without any problems.

Although a full-surface bonding of the parquet is accordingly not required, the footfall sound insulation in the parquet, however, further reduces the sound unwinding.

Commercially available footfall sound insulation for parquet can be different materials.

Plastic

Plastic impact sound insulation is made of PE foam (polyethylene foam) and is available in sheets or films in different thicknesses and finishes.

In principle, a footfall sound insulation made of PE foam can be used under all floors, the differences lie in the thickness of the insulation material as well as in its insulation value.

For hard, noisy parquet, the use of stronger PE foam panels is recommended, as they better insulate the impact sound, while for softer and quieter floors, thinner aluminium films with glued-on PE layer also serve good.

Not to be confused is a footfall sound insulation made of PE film with the conventional PE film, which is used for the insertion of vapour barriers.

Cork

The natural product cork not only has tread-sound-insulating properties, but is also known for its thermally insulating effect.

A footfall sound insulation made of cork is available as panels or on rolls and can be cut easily and individually, which makes the laying work much easier.

Wood fibre

Panels made of debarked and crushed into wood fibres residual wood are also well suited as footfall sound insulation for parquet.

Due to the size of the panels, a fast, comprehensive installation is possible. Footfall sound insulation made of wood fibre panels not only has a sound proofing effect, but also heat insulating and moisture-regulating.

Hemp felt

Available as different widths and long rolls, hemp felt offers not only protection against noise, but also from cold.

In addition, the material properties make it easy to compensate for unevenness in the soil.

Otherwise, alternative materials such as:

  • Styrofoam (EPS)
  • Ripple board
  • Coconut fibre
  • Expanded clay spill

What is the best footfall sound insulation for parquet?

Which footfall sound insulation is the best depends on the underbody.

Whereas in the case of impact sound insulation the principle used to apply, the denser or thicker, the better, the differences between the different materials in terms of sound insulation are relatively small nowadays.

In contrast to most products used in building and living, there is no published test for impact sound insulation.

In order to be able to compare the different impact sound insulations, certain characteristic values and standardized test methods have been developed, which are based on the different requirements for impact sound insulation.

Constructive requirements

The design requirements for footfall sound insulation for Parquet essentially comprises three factors:

Moisture protection

If parquet is laid on a mineral substrate such as screed, the moisture protection of the impact sound insulation plays a decisive role.

In order to be able to block residual moisture from the substrate, a steam barrier or steam brake is necessary. Modern impact sound insulation is now often already equipped with an integrated moisture film, so that no additional film has to be laid. The key figure is the SD value, which should be at least 75 m.

It is important that impact sound insulation with an integrated steam barrier must not be used if it is a wooden substrate.

Any residual moisture would then remain trapped in the substructure and could not escape upwards, resulting in permanent damage to the substructure.

Compensation of unevenness

The PC value defines the balancing capacity of the impact sound insulation – i.e. how high spot bumps in the underbody can be. Since the subsurfaces erected in accordance with the norm have a maximum of 1 mm high spot unevenness, a PC value of 0.5 mm is usually sufficient for the impact sound insulation for parquet.

Coarser unevenness of more than 3 mm must in any case be levelled out in advance by grinding or filling with levelling compound.

Thermal insulation value or heat flow behaviour

The thermal insulation value is particularly important if the parquet footfall sound insulation is laid on underfloor heating systems with parquet.

This is because the floor is heated – or cooled – the material should have as little thermal insulation as possible, while unheated floors should have the highest possible heat transfer resistance.

The recommended thermal insulation values for impact sound insulation for Parquet are:

  • 0,06 m2K/W bei Böden mit Fußbodenheizung
  • 0.04m2K/W for cooled floors
  • 0.075m2K/W for unheated floors

However, the decisive factor for impact sound insulation on parquet with underfloor heating is that the thermal resistance for the entire floor structure must not exceed 0.15 m2K/W. Accordingly, not only the value of the footfall sound insulation alone is decisive, but must always be considered in combination with the value of the floor covering.

Requirements for resilience

The degree of stress on the floor also plays a role in the selection of the footfall sound insulation for parquet is a role. Because the parquet underlay must be can withstand different loads described by means of key figures. to become.

Dynamic loads

These recurring loads, such as walking the parquet or moving armchairs or other pieces of furniture, are expressed in cycles – the longer the characteristics of the impact sound insulation remain unchanged under load, the higher the specified value.

The minimum requirement at normal level of stress, as is the case in residential areas, is 10,000 cycles.

Permanent / temporary loads

Heavy pieces of furniture lead to permanent or temporary Impact sound insulation loads for parquet. While the minimum requirement of 10kPA (1t/m2) for temporary loads mostly absolute is sufficient, the value of 2kPA (200 kg/m2) can be used for permanent loads from kitchen furniture or large cabinets, for example, can be reached quickly, which is primarily important for thin footfall sound insulation.

Protection against heavy falling objects

The RLB value indicates the height from which an item is floor may fall without damaging the impact sound insulation Suffers. The minimum requirement here is 50 cm, but the value should be significantly higher.

Acoustic requirements

As already mentioned, a distinction is made between walking sound and footfall sound when making noises.

The acoustic requirements for impact sound insulation for parquet basically cover both. However, there are still no concrete reference values with regard to the reduction of walking noise .

However, the situation is different when it comes to impact sound minimization: For example, the volume of impact sound with appropriate parquet insulation should be at least 14 db lower by than without, with good impact sound insulation achieving values of 20 db and more.

As a natural floor covering made of wood, parquet has many advantages. However, its naturalness also has an effect in that the parquet works. So in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and intact parquet floor in the long term, expansion joints must be taken into account. In the following you will find out how to proceed best in this respect when laying parquet parquet .

Elongation joints at parquet – why?

Parquet is made of wood and wood works.

In the event of temperature fluctuations or changes in humidity, parquet reacts accordingly with swells and dwindling. This means that it expands depending on the room conditions and pulls back together.

In order to give the parquet the necessary leeway, expansion joints must be observed as soon as they are laid, as they compensate for the spring and shrinkage behaviour of the parquet.

In addition, appropriate expansion joints ensure reduced sound transmission and therefore additionally optimise the result of the required impact sound insulation.

Where do you need expansion joints for parquet?

In the first place, expansion joints must be taken into account when laying parquet in the edge areas of the room.

The basic rule is a wall distance of at least 2 mm per metre of floor – so if the room is 4 m wide, 8 mm expansion joint is required.

With the usually recommended distance of 10 to 15 mm one is on the safe side in rooms of average size, in very large rooms the expansion joint should be correspondingly wider.

From a room dimension of 8 m width and 12 m length, an additional expansion joint is required by leaving out a gap between the parquet elements.

If an elongation joint is already included in the screed, one must also be inserted in the same place in the parquet.

It is well known that parquet all around requires expansion joints on the walls.

However, expansion joints for parquet must be taken into account not only where, but also in other places, where the floor can encounter immovable elements.

These include door frames, stairs, radiator pipes, end profiles e.g. for transitions to other floor coverings and much more.

In the case of heavy furniture, such as kitchens or built-in cupboards, it is advisable to install them before laying the hardwood flooring and then take into account the corresponding expansion joint under the plinth.

If this is not possible, the hardwood flooring under the built-in furniture on the other side requires twice the distance to the wall, as it can only work in one direction.

Is there a difference between bonded and floating laid parquet?

Expansion joints are always necessary for all hardwood flooring, regardless of whether it is glued over the entire surface or installed as a floating installation.

The difference, however, is that glued parquet works less, as it is fixed to the subfloor.

The smallest extent occurs with glued floorparquet, as it is not only connected to the screed, but the material is also glued transversely to each other.

Correspondingly, the expansion joints may be smaller when the parquet is glued, depending on the recommended manufacturer’s instructions. Even with head joints, less distance is sufficient, as the hardwood flooring unfolds its greatest expansion in width here.

Different, on the other hand, with floating parquet. Here, the parquet panels are only loosely laid on the substrate and accordingly have high spring and shrinkage behaviour.

Therefore, in this case, it is strongly advisable to maintain a greater distance in the expansion joints.

What happens if parquet has no expansion joints?

If parquet is laid without paying attention to the correspondingly large expansion joints, the wood cannot work sufficiently.

The parquet panels collide when they are expanded or stand by fixed room elements and begin to bulge.

This not only looks ugly, but can even lead to permanent damage to the parquet.

For example, when individual parquet panels break out of the gluing or the click system breaks.

Floating parquet can still bulge even if the ground is only on one side.

If no expansion joints have been adhered to as part of the parquet laying, you can also install them afterwards.

This involves a certain amount of effort, but it is always worthwhile compared to the inconvenience of a damaged parquet.

Tips for erecting expansion joints

Observance of expansion joints is particularly challenging for laymen.

The use of spacers, which are placed between the wall and the parquet when laying and removed after the laying work has been completed, has therefore proved to be successful.

This ensures that a uniform expansion joint is maintained. In commercially available laying sets for parquet, such wedges or blocks are usually already included or can be retrofitted in the DIY store.

For protection – and of course also because of the more attractive appearance – the expansion joints can be covered accordingly at the end: With skirting boards in the wall areas, rails or profiles at transitions or doors or pipe rosettes or similar covers for heating pipes etc.

Of course, expansion joints can also be filled with joint sealing compound. Here, however, it is essential to ensure that it is a suitable, permanently elastic material, otherwise the parquet will not be able to work.

Recommended repair sets in this article:

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Even the most robust parquet is not immune to damage.

Daily wear and tear or minor mishaps can quickly cause scratches, holes or dents in the parquet. Learn in this article how to best repair various damage in the parquet.

One of the great advantages of parquet is its durability and durability.

Nevertheless parquet is not indestructible. However, minor damage to hardwood flooring is usually relatively easy to repair without having to renovate the entire floor. How best to repair defects in hardwood flooring, depends on the type of damage.

Remove scratches in the parquet

Scratches in hardwood flooring are only an optical defect with waxed or oiled floors.

With lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the damaged surface sealant can cause damage in the long term if dirt or moisture penetrates under the protective layer.

To eliminate scratches in the parquet, there are various possibilities that achieve very good results depending on the depth of the scratches.

Superficial scratches or sanding marks in the parquet can be removed in most cases by polishing.

This method works for oiled or waxed parquet as well as for painted parquet.

For this purpose, furniture polish or repair wax or oil is applied to a soft, lint-free cloth and the scratch is rubbed in until it has disappeared.

However, it is important to note the material compatibility with the parquet, as the damaged areas can otherwise discolor when the agent penetrates into the wood.

Especially with painted parquet, the damaged area can also be easily sanded and then provided with a new layer of diluted lacquer. However, it will hardly be possible to repair the paint without transitions, which can be seen more or less depending on the light incidence.

Even with a walnut slight scratches in the parquet can be treated well. By rubbing the nut kernel into the surface, the scratch does not disappear completely, but it becomes much less visible. Suitable parquet maintenance also helps against small scratches in the floor.

In addition, there are also special Retouching pins in different colours, with which the scratches in the parquet can be concealed.

Repairing deep scratches and holes in the parquet

Major damage in the parquet, such as deep scratches or holes, can be easily filled with wooden putty.

To do this, the parquet must first be thoroughly cleaned with a parquet vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

In particular, the damaged site must be clean and completely dry before repair can begin. Subsequently, the wood putty is mixed accordingly, applied to the scratch or hole with a plastic spatula in several layers and smooth coated.

For an optimal colour result, sawdust matched to the parquet floor can be added to the wood putty. Once the wood putty is completely dried – the drying time is between 12 and 24 hours, depending on the product – the repaired area is sanded with sandpaper until the surface is as much as possible aligned with the rest of the parquet.

Eliminate damage in the parquet with repair kit

For deeper scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet, special parquet repair kits are also a good alternative.

These are available in different versions and price categories in DIY stores or specialist retailers.

The most significant difference with repair sets is the melting wax contained in them.

While the cheaper variants usually contain relatively soft melting wax, which deforms even at low temperatures – such as sunlight – , more expensive repair kits contain high-quality hard wax and are also available in numerous colour shades.

For such a professional parquet repair set, you can expect costs of about 100,- Euro. An investment that is, however, definitely worthwhile in view of the result.

To repair the damage in the parquet, the hard wax of the parquet repair set is heated and the scratch or hole is filled with it.

In order to get as close as possible to the wood structure, hard wax should be used in various shades of colour.

With some repair kits, the wax can also be mixed with a wood paste until the colour tone corresponds as closely as possible to that of the parquet. Scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet can then be filled with this compound. However, the wax is not suitable for filling joints in hardwood flooring. This is because the material is brittle and therefore unsuitable.

Remaining wax residues can then be removed with a plastic spatula or a plastic card. Finally, the repaired area is cleaned with a dry, soft cloth and re-treated with care products suitable for the respective parquet (polish, oil, sealing varnish).

Repair kits for parquet only achieve an optimal result if the damage in the floor is deep enough.

Because only if the macke in the parquet is correspondingly large, the filling with the hard wax gets the necessary support.

If the damage is too slight, it should therefore be extended accordingly with a cutter or similar tool if a repair set is used.

Remove dents in the parquet

If the parquet has a dent, it is sometimes sufficient to moisten it.

Due to the moisture, the parquet swells slightly and the dent is removed.

With more stubborn dents, the iron can also help: Simply place a damp cloth on the appropriate place and gently slide over it with the hot iron.

Thus, the moisture from the hot water vapor can penetrate even better into the wood, the parquet expands and the dent disappears again.

However, this method requires very careful handling to prevent the parquet from swelling too much due to excessive moisture.

In addition, especially in the case of lacquered hardwood flooring, you should test in advance on an inconspicuous spot whether the lacquer can withstand the high temperatures of the iron without damage.

If the dents have been caused by water damage, the dents are Repair, however, is not so easy. In this case, the special procedures for the elimination of water damage.

Partially replace the parquet

If a damage cannot be repaired by the various repair methods, hardwood flooring also offers the possibility of replacing individual elements. To do this, the damaged parquet is either cut out with a chisel, for example, or a single plank is removed and replaced with a suitably adapted, new element.

Partial replacement of parquet is particularly advantageous if there is loose parquet, for example because the parquet adhesive has come loose or the click system is damaged.

Grinding the parquet

In the case of extensive or more serious damage, it may be necessary to sand down the parquet in the course of repair.

With the exception of untreated parquet, this is also partially possible in most cases. However, it should be borne in mind that the sanded area will always differ from the rest of the floor, as the parquet changes its color over time.

Corresponding color differences between repaired and original parquet should therefore be compensated so that the repair is as little visible as possible.

This is often possible by treating the surface with polish, oil or sealing wax. However, if this is not the case, the entire parquet floor must ultimately be sanded down. In places subject to heavy loads, e.g. in offices under the desk, you should always use a floor protection mat.

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In order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and well-kept hardwood flooring for as long as possible, regular cleaning and care is essential.

For dry cleaning of hardwood flooring, vacuum cleaners are the ideal tool.

You can find out what is important for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet and which products are available on the market in this article.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (with cable):

Dry clean parquet: Vacuum cleaner vs. breviews

Parquet is robust and easy to care for – but it is still not possible without regular cleaning.

For the daily removal of superficial dirt, dry cleaning is usually sufficient. Best with a vacuum cleaner.

Because of the material condition of the parquet, dust and dirt do not stick to the surface, but lie only loosely on top.

While the dust is partly only stirred up by sweeping with a broom, in order to settle again throughout the room, dust and dirt particles are removed more thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner.

However, there are a few things to consider when using vacuum cleaners for parquet.

Best vacuum cleaner for parquet: criteria and Requirements

The range of vacuum cleaners for parquet is varied – numerous manufacturers offer a wide variety of models in all price ranges.

Among the most well-known and popular vacuum cleaner manufacturers are:

  • Dyson
  • Miele
  • Bosch
  • Siemens
  • Philips
  • Rowenta
  • Aeg
  • and many more

In order to facilitate the decision, it is advisable to to pay attention to different characteristics from the trade mark:

Suction

An essential criterion in the search for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet is its suction power.

On the one hand, a high suction effect reduces the time required for cleaning, as the dust is already sucked in from a greater distance and even larger dirt particles, such as stones or crumbs, disappear quickly and reliably in the vacuum cleaner.

On the other hand, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power is also more versatile and is therefore also suitable for use on tiles and carpet in addition to parquet. In addition, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power also reduces the risk of dirt getting caught in the brush and causing scratches in the hardwood flooring.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (without cable):

Floor nozzle

The use of a suitable nozzle is essential for a gentle suction process on parquet.

This should be geared to the texture of the parquet and have a dense, soft brush that glides easily and without loss of suction force over the parquet. Commercially available vacuum cleaners are usually equipped with a universal nozzle, in which the brush can be folded in or out depending on the floor covering.

These have the advantage that they can be used for vacuuming both parquet and tiles or carpets.

In some cases, special parquet nozzles are also available for the vacuum cleaner, which have been specially adapted to the requirements of hardwood flooring and have a soft, large-area insert (e.g. made of felt or natural hair). However, these are rarely included in the scope of delivery of the vacuum cleaner, but can be retrofitted in addition to the normal nozzle.

Wheels

Most vacuum cleaners have wheels that pull them through the room. If these wheels block, e.g. by a wedged stone, scratches or scratches can occur in the parquet. Therefore, when purchasing a vacuum cleaner for parquet, attention should be paid to the quality of the wheels, axles and bearings.

Rubber wheels are gentler for the parquet and leave fewer traces than plastic wheels. In addition, the wheels should have as large a diameter as possible and be easily pulled by manoeuvrable joints.

Weight

Basically, the weight of the vacuum cleaner for parquet is rather incidental – much more important is the quality and the execution of the wheels. However, when vacuuming on multiple floors or stairs, the weight can affect ease of use.

Volume

Even the volume of the vacuum cleaner hardly affects whether the vacuum cleaner is suitable for parquet. In view of the fact that however, it makes it possible for the user to there is quite a difference in the noise he makes when vacuuming parquet exposed.

Different types of vacuum cleaners for parquet

Whether floor vacuum cleaners, hand vacuum cleaners or vacuum cleaners, whether Cable or battery, with bag or without – in principle there is for every type of vacuum cleaner Models suitable for parquet.

Vacuum cleaner

The classic among vacuum cleaners for parquet scores points with its consistently high suction force. Strong motors ensure that dust and Dirt reliably disappear. Floor vacuum cleaners are available with different technologies:

With conventional floor vacuum cleaners – such as the Bosch BGL35MON13, the Siemens VS06B1110 or the Miele S 8340 PowerLine – the dirt is sucked into a bag that needs to be replaced regularly.

In contrast, bagless cyclone vacuum cleaners – such as the Philips FC9332/09 PowerPro Compact or the Dyson Big Ball Parquet 2 – transport dust and dirt particles directly into the collecting container through air and rotation.

This eliminates follow-up costs for new vacuum cleaner bags and also reduces the loss of suction power.

Alternatively, vacuum cleaners for parquet are also available, which by the use of water filters for a dust-free exhaust air during the suction process example of this is the Kärcher DS 6.

Hand vacuum cleaner

Wireless cordless vacuum cleaners – such as the Dyson V11 absolute – rely on space-saving compactness – suction tube and motor form a unit, there is no housing that needs to be pulled behind. In addition, they can be used flexibly, as they do not need to be connected to the power supply. To the face of the battery life limited operating time and the heavier weight that is dust ing in your hand.

Suction robots

vacuum cleaners robots are particularly convenient because they vacuum the parquet floor independently. However, the purchase costs are also much higher than for conventional vacuum cleaners for hardwood flooring.

Which product is ultimately most convincing often depends on your personal preferences. Because every vacuum cleaner for parquet has its advantages and disadvantages, as can be seen from various product tests and comparisons.

Tips and tricks for vacuuming parquet

  • Choose a vacuum cleaner for parquet that best meets your requirements. If you have parquet floors and tiles or parquet and carpet in your home, the vacuum cleaner should be as universally usable as possible.
  • Use only a floor nozzle that is suitable for use on parquet.
  • When sucking parquet, be sure to fold out the brush with a universal nozzle. This way, you not only prevent scratches, but also the dust is sucked in directly and not – as would be the case with a flattened nozzle – just pushed over the ground.
  • Make sure that the nozzle does not bend and that there is no coarse dirt (e.g. stones or sand) in the brush that could scratch the parquet.
  • Check the wheels of the parquet vacuum cleaner regularly for their functionality before suction. Dirt should always be removed immediately to avoid streaks or damage in the parquet.
  • Avoid the vacuum cleaner tipping over on the parquet floor – it not only interferes with the operation, but can also lead to damage.
  • Always remove desk chair pads and carpets before vacuuming. In the peripheral areas of these, dirt often accumulates that would otherwise not be removed properly.
  • For floor vacuum cleaners that need to be plugged into the power outlet, make sure that they have a sufficiently long cable or are replugged accordingly. This not only facilitates vacuuming, but also prevents the vacuum cleaner from being pushed sideways over the parquet floor, leaving traces on the parquet floor.
  • For cordless vacuum cleaners for parquet, keep in mind that the device must be charged continuously to be ready for use at all times.

Steam cleaners have increasingly established themselves in recent years as an alternative to wiper mop and buckets in households.

Due to the power of steam, even stubborn dirt can be effectively removed without additional cleaning agents. But are steam cleaners also suitable for use on parquet?

The answer is basically yes – but not for every parquet.

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For which parquet are steam cleaners suitable?

Steam cleaners may only be used on fully bonded, hard-sealed parquet surfaces – for all other types of parquet, steam cleaners not suitable.

With unsealed, but also oiled or waxed parquet the surface remains open-pored, so that the moisture of the steam would penetrate into the floor and cause permanent damage to the parquet.

The natural wood floor reacts to excessive contact with water with increased swelling behaviour – due to the moisture content during steam cleaning, this would sooner or later result in unattractive dents or bulges.

What should be considered when cleaning the steam of parquet floors?

But even with sealed or varnished parquet care must be taken when using steam cleaners:

It is important that the surface is fully intact and does not have any damage that could penetrate moisture. Therefore, before steam cleaning, the parquet should be thoroughly applied to cracks or scratches can be checked.

Before steam cleaning is started, the parquet should be carefully vacuumed with a vacuum cleaner, as coarser dirt and dust particles can cause scratches in the surface.

The lowest amount of steam and the lowest pressure should be set on the steam cleaner for the cleaning of parquet , in order to be able to wipe only with a damp cloth.

Therefore, only devices that can be regulated continuously or those that are clearly declared by the manufacturer as suitable for wooden floors are recommended. Steam cleaners without regulation possibilities are not recommended for hardwood flooring.

The cleaning process itself should be carried out as quickly and evenly as possible.

In order to keep the water film on the parquet as low as possible, it is best to use multilayer wipe covers.

Pausing too long in one place is best avoided. If, however, there is increased moisture, it is necessary to dry the parquet with a dry cloth.

A slight residual moisture, on the other hand, dries up by itself and leaves no streaks or streaks on the parquet floor due to the elimination of cleaning agent residues during steam cleaning.

An even, firm and dry screed is an absolute requirement for the professional laying of parquet and a durable, high-quality floor. In this article you will learn what is important for the professional installation of the subfloor and how long screed for parquet must dry.

Testing of the subsoil

In principle, it is possible to lay parquet on various floors (also existing floor coverings such as PVC, felt or stone) provided they are flat, firm and dry.

The corresponding requirements for the substrate are precisely defined in DIN 18365 for floor covering work and DIN 18356 for parquet work.

If parquet is laid by a specialist, it is subject to a test obligation in accordance with these standards.

Should parquet be inserted on a newly built screed important aspects need to be taken into account in order to meet the conditions for a successful installation.

Flatness

Only a flat surface ensures an optimal result when laying the parquet floor.

Therefore, the flatness of the screed should be checked. This works best with a straight object, such as a straightening bar, a measuring wedge, or a water scale.

If the subfloor does not comply with the standard, the screed must be repaired accordingly before laying parquet.

Strength

In order for the underbody to achieve the necessary level of load-bearing capacity, it must have the appropriate strength.

In particular for the full-surface bonding of parquet using parquet adhesive, a solid screed is the decisive criterion for proper installation.

The condition of the substrate is checked by means of a lattice-scratch test.

For this purpose, diamond-shaped lines are carved into the screed with a pointed object or a special scratching device. There must be no eruptions or seds, otherwise it is not firm enough.

Drying time of the screed

Too much moisture in the subfloor is quite likely to cause damage to the floor covering sooner or later – regardless of whether it is hardwood flooring, vinyl flooring- or cork flooring.

If a new floor is not laid sufficiently dry, it can lead to increased swelling behavior, especially for wooden floors or coverings with support material made of wood fibreboards.

Unattractive dents and bulges, especially in the impact areas, are the result.

Caution is also required with barrier primers, as although moisture penetrates more slowly, it still remains in the house.

Receipt maturity of the screed

Careful procedure, sufficient drying time and exact residual moisture measurement are therefore basic requirements for the readiness of the screed for laying – only then is the subfloor suitable for laying parquet.

Screed is available in various versions, which are reflected in their composition and their drying time. Among the most common species Count:

Cement screed

The most commonly used cement screed consists of sand, cement (as binder) and water – and is therefore one of the flow screeds.

Supplied as a dry mixture, flow screed is mixed directly on site with the addition of water and introduced via a screed pump.

Cement screed is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use due to its moisture resistance and has stable strength values.

During installation and during the drying phase, the ambient temperature must not be below 5°C, draughts and humidity must be avoided – otherwise the surface may become uneven or even cracked.

When is cement screed accessible?

After 2 to 3 days the cement screed can be walked on, after approx. 10 days it can be fully loaded, the readiness for laying is reached after approx. 4 weeks drying phase.

Anhydrite screed

The anhydrite screed, which is also one of the flow screeds, is also enjoying increasing popularity, as the contained binder anhydrite shortens the drying phase.

Due to its good thermal conductivity, anhydrite screed is ideally suited for underfloor heating systems, but on the other hand it is not suitable for outdoor use, as the screed becomes unusable on contact with water.

Dry screed

There is no drying time when dry screed is used. Prefabricated panels made of plasterboard, wood-based material or cement-bound chipboard glued or screwed on the raw floor. Unevenness or too low construction heights must be balanced with granules or be piled up.

In addition, there are other, less common screed screeds such as magnesite screed, cast asphalt screed or synthetic resin screed.

Residual moisture determination

When drying ledges, approximately 1 cm of screed per week is generally considered to be a guideline.

If the screed is over 4 cm thick, two additional weeks should be taken into account, as it has an extended binding time.

In the case of underfloor heating, it is also recommended to heat the screed completely afterwards.

For this purpose, the flow temperature of the underfloor heating system is increased to two thirds of the heating load in 5°C increments and then lowered again. A detailed heating protocol should be kept for control.

After the drying or heating phase, an exact test of the residual moisture is necessary.

Measuring points that have already been set when the screed is applied facilitate the process and ensure a reliable result. Fast binders can affect the values and should therefore be disclosed.

The permissible residual moisture depends on both the type of as well as whether or not underfloor heating is available. Depending on the screed, the standard values are as follows:

  • cement screed: 2 % without floor heating / 1.8 % with floor heating
  • anhydrite screed: 0.5 % without underfloor heating / 0.3 % with underfloor heating
  • magnesite line: max. 4 %

Some parquet adhesives are already approved for higher residual moisture. However, the manufacturer’s information should always be treated with caution.

Moisture measurement with CM method

For residual moisture determination, the measurement is recommended using the CM method (calcium carbide method).

For this purpose, the pressure pressure of a crushed and shaken with calcium carbide is measured with a special device and determined as a value for the residual moisture using a conversion table.

Since the measurement is in principle very complex – and also the only approved test procedure for the publisher’s stiffener – it is recommended to contact a specialist.

Whether parquet, carpet or laminate – excessive load is not good for the floor.

Especially at workplaces with desk and office chair, the floor is heavily stressed.

A floor protection mat as a chair mat prevents damage and protects the floor covering.

Office chair pads – the optimal floor protection

Desk chairs with castors can quickly leave marks on the floor – carpets are rubbed off, hard floors such as parquet or laminate are defaced by scratches or nicks.

Floor protection mats should therefore not be missing under any office chair, as parquet savers or carpet protectors offer effective protection against damage.

Office chair pads are available in a wide variety of designs, colours, sizes and materials.

Which floor saver is best suited depends on several criteria:

On which floor ingesenator is the floor protection used?

There is the right protective mat for every floor.

The offer includes floor protection mats for carpet as well as floor protection mats for hard flooring and parquet.

The surfaces all have a non-slip underside, the surface is often even coated with an antibacterial coating, so that dirt and bacteria have no chance.

Floor protection mats for carpet

As a chair pad for textile floor coverings, the special carpet floor protection mats are equipped with blunt anchor tops on the underside of the mat. These ensure a secure grip so that the protective mat cannot slip.

How long the anchors should be depends on the height of the carpet.

Thanks to the carpet saver, the carpet is neither flattened nor soiled by the rollers of the desk chair and the floor remains beautiful for longer.

Soil protection mats for hard flooring

Hard floors include flooring such as wood, parquet, laminate, tiles, stone, PVC, vinyl and cork.

In contrast to floor protection mats for carpets, floor protectors for hard floors do not have bumps, but have a special non-slip profile.

It is smooth and protects the floor without the underlay slipping.

Floor protection mats for parquet

Hard-floor office chair mats are also suitable as parquet savers.

Its smooth underside has proven to be parquet protection.

The protective mats not only prevent scratches or sanding marks, but also protect the parquet from stains and moisture in case something falls to the floor.

Which material is used as a chair pad for the respective application?

Soil protection mats can be made of different materials, all of which have certain properties and advantages.

Apart from the flooring, personal preferences and requirements for the office chair base are also decisive for the material decision.

PET (polyethylene terephthalate)

Pet floor savers are partly made from recycled bottles and are therefore environmentally friendly.

They also score points for their durability and are highly translucent. They have an effect footfall sound insulation and are also suitable for use on underfloor heating systems.

Polypropylene

Also suitable for underfloor heating and in addition odourless and skin-friendly are floor protection mats made of polypropylene.

They withstand high loads, are scratch-resistant and water-repellent.

Polycarbonate

Due to the properties of polycarbonate, desk chair pads made of this material have a very long service life.

They are not only extremely resilient and hard-wearing, but also resistant to weather, heat and radiation. Also plasticizers or solvents are not contained in these mats.

Natural rubber

Floor protection mats made of the renewable raw material natural rubber are water-repellent and very elastic. The material is also tear-resistant and has an antistatic effect.

What shape or colour should the floor protection mat have?

Due to different designs and colours, the office chair underlay can become quite an eye-catcher.

Those who attach importance to discreet floor protection are well advised with transparent chair documents.

They are barely visible and still offer the desired effect.

The form of the office chair pad depends primarily on the arrangement of the desk.

It is important that the shape of the floor protection mat covers the entire workplace as far as possible.

Lips on the mats provide additional protection against wetness and dirt on shoe soles.

How big should the underlay be?

Like the shape, the size of the desk chair underlay depends on the workstation.

In accordance with the workplace regulation, the freedom of movement must be at least 1.5 m2.

With regard to the dimensions of the floor protection mat, the larger the floor protection.

In addition to the standard sizes, many manufacturers also offer custom-made floor savers.

Attaching and cleaning floor protection mats

In order to protect the floor effectively and sustainably, care must be taken to properly attach the office chair pad.

For floor protection mats for carpets, the smooth side represents the surface, the toped side represents the underside.

In contrast, floor protection mats for hard floors or floor protection mats for parquet have the smooth side at the bottom and the rough side at the top.

The cleaning of floor savers is best done with pure water and subsequent re-drying with a soft cloth.

In the case of heavy contamination, household general-purpose cleaners can be added, sharp or corrosive agents as well as alcohol- and salmiak-holding cleaners should be dispensed with altogether.

If parquet is arched or swollen, excessive moisture is often the reason.

While superficial water damage can be detected quickly and easily, the cause can also be hidden under the floor. In this article you will learn what causes excessive moisture under the parquet and how to proceed in case of water damage.

How does parquet react to moisture?

As a natural wooden floor, parquet always reacts to water.

What is of great advantage in terms of indoor climate and feel-good atmosphere on the one hand can lead to damage in the parquet floor on the other hand.

Too high humidity leads to an increased swelling behavior of the parquet – unsightly deformations are the result.

A different image is created depending on where the water comes from:

  • Moisture spreads from below, parquet forms convex – it swells up and the middle of the rods curves upwards or comes up.
  • If moisture enters from above, the deformations are concave – the so-called “bowl” occurs, the parquet deforms like a bowl, with the edges facing upwards.

Causes of water damage in the parquet

Water damage in the parquet can have many causes. While a fallen water bucket or a room flooded by an leaking washing machine is quickly discovered, there are a number of water damage that is not so obvious.

Thus, the damage is often not noticed until the parquet is swelled or curves. Then it is said to get to the bottom of the matter quickly in order to limit the damage as much as possible.

There are the following options:

Too moist screed

If it is a new building, the parquet may have been on a screed that was too damp.

In order for a newly erected screed to be suitable for laying parquet, it must be completely dry.

As a guideline, a drying time of approx. one week per cm of screed – a classic cement screed is therefore usually sufficiently dried after about 4 weeks. In order to be certain, a residual moisture determination must be carried out using the CM method before laying the hardwood flooring, which determines exactly whether the values are within the approved standard.

Defective water pipes or heating pipes

If there are water or heating pipes – for example from a underfloor heating system – under the hardwood flooring, the water damage may also have been caused by a leak in these pipes. In this case, moisture penetrates into the parquet from below, but this can go unnoticed for a while.

Too high humidity

Particularly with floating parquet laid , bulging can also be caused by excessive humidity. If, in addition, too little space has been left around the edges or at door thresholds to give the parquet the necessary room to swell and shrink, it will mainly come up at the joints.

Water damage in the parquet – what to do?

No matter what the cause is – in case of water damage in the parquet, the motto applies:

The quicker the damage is repaired, the smaller are the consequences and the more likely it is that the parquet can be repaired.

As soon as a water damage has been detected in the parquet, the therefore be acted upon as soon as possible. In this way, it is not only avoid irreparable damage, but it also prevents mold formation, which could sometimes spread to the entire floor construction.

Parquet has the great advantage that it can be easily repaired in most cases with slight to moderate water damage.

A real wood floor is completely destroyed only if the water is on the floor for a long time or the parquet elements in it “float”.

In contrast to other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet can therefore usually be easily renovated – even the repair of individual damaged areas is possible.

The cost of repairing or remediation measures depends accordingly on the extent of the water damage.

Eliminate superficial water damage in the parquet

Water damage to the surface of the parquet is best repaired by first wiping the water as quickly as possible.

Afterwards, the parquet must dry completely.

If the floor was only in contact with the water for a short time – for example, because a bucket was spilled – it is sufficient to provide the necessary draught in the room by aeration. The affected area can then be treated with a suitable care product.

In the case of larger or longer floods – e.g. due to leaking washing machines or floods – the residual moisture from the parquet and the air must be removed over a longer period of time by a dehumidifier.

It is important to keep windows and doors closed during the entire drying phase – with the exception of impulse ventilation – windows and doors.

Suitable equipment can be rented at DIY stores or specialist companies, the costs for this are usually covered by the insurance.

In addition, in the case of major surface damage, the water may also have penetrated into the joints of the parquet and thus spread moisture under the floor.

If this risk exists, a expert or expert should definitely be consulted, who will examine the water damage in detail and plan further measures if necessary.

Repair water damage below the parquet

If the source of the water damage is below the parquet, has probably already passed some time, which is the expense of the Damage is eliminated.

The most important thing is to eliminate the cause of water ingress. To do this, it is usually necessary to remove the parquet at the affected area. Later the parquet can be fixed again with parquet adhesive.

Once the damage has been repaired, the entire underbody – especially the screed – must first completely dry up before the hole can be closed again.

The use of a drying device is also recommended for this purpose.

In addition, any existing bulk material should be removed. Only when the soil has completely dried out and there are no signs of mold formation, the affected area can be filled with new bulk material and the hole can be closed with new parquet elements.

The old hardwood flooring will probably be too damaged by the effects of water to be reused. Colour differences in the decor can be compensated for by special oils or lacquers or a new parquet sealing.

Signs of mold infestation

If a musty, fashionable or earthy smell goes out after a water damage, this is usually an indication that mold has formed under the parquet.

The extent of the infestation and the possible spread to the dwelling can be investigated by means of an appropriate expert opinion.

If mould is actually found, the parquet must be completely removed and often also the screed underneath must be renovated.

A new screed may only be introduced if the residual moisture in the room is below 4 percent – after that, the corresponding drying time must be observed before a new parquet can be laid.

Since the highest care is required in the refurbishment of parquet after a water damage with mould infestation, the measures should be carried out by a specialist.

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

  • strip parquet:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • ship bottom:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • mosaic parquet:
    8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • lamp parquet:
    6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • panel parquet:
    approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.