Hardwood Flooring Archive - Page 7 of 9

Hardwood flooring adhesive/glue

The full-surface gluing of parquet forms the basis for a stable and durable floor, because the fixed connection with the subfloor provides significant advantages.

However, gluing hardwood flooring involves considerable effort. What is important when gluing parquet and which parquet adhesive is the right one, you will learn in this article.

Parquet adhesive recommendations from this article:

35 Reviews

Bostik GreenForce 0 VOC Adhesive, 4 Gallons*

What are the advantages of sticking parquet?

In recent years, the parquet floor seems to have lost some of its importance.

Because many house and apartment owners prefer the floating installation of modern pre-finished parquet, which is faster and less complicated and also usually more cost-effective.

However, if you want to benefit from the advantages of a high-quality and stable floor in the long term, you should still stick the parquet.

Because the gluing of parquet has some decisive advantages:

Due to the fixed connection, parquet adheres firmly to the subfloor for decades, which also makes it easier to sand down and renovate more than once.

Furthermore, glued parquet is also quieter:

impact sound and other noises when using the floor are transmitted less.

Another decisive advantage over floating installation is particularly relevant for parquet on underfloor heating systems:

the gluing process does not create air cushions between the parquet and the subfloor, which improves the thermal conductivity It should be noted, however, that glued parquet cannot be removed so easily if the floor is to be replaced at some point.

What parquet adhesives are there?

The right parquet adhesive is of course decisive for an optimum result when laying glued parquet.

Not every glue is equally suitable for every type of parquet. When purchasing the parquet adhesive, therefore, it is first and foremost important to ensure that the product is matched to both the substrate and the parquet floor to be used.

Manufacturer’s instructions and installation instructions provide important information about this and should therefore be closely monitored.

Due to the continuous development of the adhesive industry, parquet adhesives have improved in recent years.

Most of the products available in specialist shops have not only become more user-friendly in handling and higher quality in terms of adhesion, but also pass the eco-test.

253 Reviews

ROBERTS 1407-1 Engineered Wood Flooring Adhesive, 1 Gallon , Beige*

While until a few years ago the proportion of solvents and other controversial ingredients in many parquet adhesives was still very high, there are now a number of ecological products that are equally harmless to humans and the environment.

Well-known manufacturers of parquet adhesives, who are also test winners in various independent product comparisons, are, for example:

Retol
Ponal
Brücol
Wakol
Sika
Stauf
Haro
Uzin
Ardex
Schönox
Bona
Bostik
Thomsit
u. from above

In general, a distinction can be made between the following parquet adhesives Be:

Silane-based adhesives

The most modern type of parquet adhesives are hybrid adhesives made of MS polymer (modified silane). They are free of solvents, water and isocyanate and are also weather and UV resistant.

This is why they are becoming more and more important and are increasingly replacing solvent adhesives, which are now banned. Silane parquet adhesives are distinguished above all by the fact that they remain permanently elastic after curing and offer the parquet a corresponding scope for swelling and shrinkage. This is why MS parquet adhesives are also universally applicable and suitable for gluing almost all parquet types as well as for use on underfloor heating systems.

Reaction resin adhesives

Reaction resin adhesives also belong to the universally applicable parquet adhesives. These are available both as 1-component PUR adhesives and as 2-component PUR adhesives. While 1-component parquet adhesives remain elastic after curing and are therefore also suitable for bonding stress-bearing parquet, 2-component PUR adhesives cure inelastically and are therefore mainly recommended for shear-resistant parquet laying.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion parquet adhesives are also still widely used – especially for the shear-resistant bonding of solid parquet, as they do not give the floor any more room to move after curing. They are mainly water-based and use little or no solvents. However, dispersion adhesives are not quite so easy to use. When laying the parquet, for example, a certain time window must be observed in which the adhesive shows its optimum adhesive properties. It should also be noted that the water content in the adhesive may possibly lead to increased swelling of the parquet.

1 Reviews

DriTac 7900 Super Grab - Wood Flooring Adhesive with Moisture Control - 4-Gallon*

Powder adhesives

These parquet adhesives consisting of plastic powder or plaster or cement as well as various fillers are also solvent-free adhesives. The powder to be mixed with water is suitable for the laying of low-stress parquet types such as mosaic or multi-layer finished parquet.

Parquet glue with solvents

In addition to the above-mentioned modern parquet adhesives without solvents, there are also some solvent-based products on the market. However, these should – if at all – only be used in individual exceptional cases. In principle, the use of such parquet adhesives is not recommended.

Beware of old parquet adhesives!

Particular care should be taken with older parquet, as the parquet adhesives used at the time may contain harmful ingredients.

Until the 1970s, for example, black parquet adhesive made of coal tar was frequently used , which can contain demonstrably carcinogenic substances such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) or polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).

Parquet glued in this way can be dangerous, for example because of a defective sealant:

Because the harmful substances contained therein, such as benzo(a)pyrene, enter the room air via fine cracks in the parquet surface and bind to dust.

However, it is not immediately necessary to remove the floor if there is black glue under the parquet.

However, regular and careful inspection of the parquet surface and a dust test should be carried out to prevent the release of the substance.

However, if you want to be on the safe side, not only must the parquet be completely removed, but also the screed underneath must be chiseled out completely, since abrasive of the black adhesive is not possible due to the dust formation.

In addition to PAH and PCBs, old parquet adhesives may also contain asbestos, which can be released, in particular by demolition or grinding work. Renovation of hardwood flooring with asbestos-containing adhesive should therefore only be carried out by specialist companies, which have been trained accordingly in handling harmful substances.

Gluing parquet: That’s what matters

The basic requirements for gluing parquet are a dry, clean and even substrate as well as optimum room conditions with a temperature of at least 16°C and 40 to 60% humidity.

Before actually starting to glue the parquet, the first three rows of the parquet should first be fitted without parquet adhesive.

In this way, the individual elements can be cut to size and any changes made to the direction of installation.

It is also advisable to become familiar with the application of the parquet adhesive before on a chipboard. In principle, modern parquet adhesives are easy to apply, but handling the putty requires a little practice.

When the parquet is bonded, step by step should be taken.

Since most parquet adhesives have a certain processing time (usually about 30 minutes) in which they have the optimum adhesive strength, only the section should be coated with adhesive on which parquet can also be laid during this time.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the adhesive will decrease and the parquet adhesive will have to be removed again.

What is the best way to apply parquet adhesive?

The parquet adhesive is applied fully and evenly to the respective floor section.

Applying the parquet adhesive works best with a serrated trowel with triangular teeth. Which serration the trowel should have depends on the type of parquet adhesive and the parquet to be laid.

The required thickness of the parquet adhesive and the recommended trowel notch size is normally indicated in the adhesive application instructions.

In addition, there are also generally valid recommendations as to which tooth fillers should be used for the different types of parquet.

These are as follows:

B3: Mosaic parquet, 8 mm parquet

B5: 2-layer parquet up to 60 cm length, Lamparkett

B9: Finished parquet, 10-mm parquet, multi-layer parquet

B11: strip parquet up to 120 cm long, multi-layer parquet up to 60 cm long

B12: Boarded parquet, planks up to 60 cm, multi-layer parquet over 60 cm long

B15: Wooden paving, solid floorboards from 120 cm length and 12 cm width

How much parquet glue is needed?

To calculate the consumption of parquet adhesive, the common recommendation is to calculate with 1.2 kg per square metre.

However, the exact consumption can vary considerably depending on the product and type of parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the thickness of the parquet adhesive to be applied should be checked before purchase.

A further calculation basis is to multiply the order quantity of the tooth filler by the number of square meters of the parquet to be laid.

How much do parquet adhesives cost?

Actual costs for the calculated amount of parquet adhesive also depend on the respective product. For example, low-cost dispersion adhesives are available for as low as 3.50 euros per kilo, synthetic resin adhesives cost an average of around 7 euros per kilo, while high-quality parquet adhesives made of reaction resin cost more than 10 euros per kilo.

1,794 Reviews

DAP 2-Pack 00141 Multi-Purpose Floor Adhesive, 1-Quart*

Remove parquet glue

If parquet is laid glued, sooner or later it is also the removal of the parquet adhesive. How much effort is involved depends on the parquet adhesive used and the type of parquet.

In order to remove smaller adhesive residues from the freshly laid parquet, simple cleaning cloths with a small amount of solvents are usually sufficient.

Alternatively, the residues – possibly previously warmed with a hair dryer – can also be treated with conventional cooking oil.

Furniture polish, erasers made of natural rubber or pure orange oil can also help, as can special adhesive removers, brake cleaners, acetone or spirits.

Larger quantities of parquet adhesivecan to be sanded with a grinding machine. It is important to remove the excess parquet adhesive as soon as possible during installation, because after a maximum of 12 hours most adhesives are completely cured.

However, if full-surface adhesive residues are to be removed after the removal of glued parquet, the procedure is much more complex.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Filling joints in hardwood floors correctly

Joints in parquet are nothing out of the ordinary and usually there is neither inferior material quality nor poorly executed laying work behind them. Nevertheless, parquet joints are often perceived as annoying. In the following article you can read why parquet joints are not bad in themselves and what you can use to fill joints in your parquet .

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

Bestseller Nr. 1

10 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Light Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

Bestseller Nr. 2

34 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Dark Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

Bestseller Nr. 3

8 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Red Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

What creates joints in the parquet?

The main cause of joints in the parquet is the natural swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the natural floor covering. Wood is a natural product that has hygroscopic properties.

This means, it binds water vapour from the air and releases it again, which changes both the wood moisture and the volume of the material depending on the room climate.

This behavior is called swelling and shrinkage – or colloquially formulated: The wood works.

The optimal conditions for parquet are at a room temperature of 20 to 22°C and a relative humidity of 55 to 60%.

In this indoor climate, professionally laid parquet hardly works and therefore has no joints.

Even if the annual average values are maintained, it is still inevitable that they will be exceeded in summer and undercut in winter. Because parquet always adapts to the ambient climate. The bonding of parquet with parquet adhesive can help a little. This somewhat reduces the swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Especially during the heating period, the air in heated rooms becomes drier, the moisture in the wood decreases, the parquet disappears and joints are created.

How pronounced these can be depends, among other things, on the type of laying: floating parquet works more strongly than glued parquet because the parquet panels only lie loosely on top of each other, whereas with full-surface gluing they are firmly connected to the subfloor.

However, the type of wood and the type of parquet also play a role: parquet made of beech or maple tends to have a higher swelling and shrinking behaviour than, for example, oak.

Are joints in the parquet a deficiency?

In general, joints in the parquet are quite their purpose in view of the inevitable source and shrinkage of the wood.

They give the parquet the necessary room for expansion without damaging the floor. However, a distinction must be made between intended and unintended joints.

By intentional joints are to be understood those joints, which were deliberately placed in order to achieve an optimal result in the laying of the parquet.

For example, when laying parquet in the edge areas or wherever the floor is applied to immovable elements such as doors, stair connections, heating pipes or heavy furniture, appropriate expansion joints must be taken into account in order to compensate for tensions of the parquet .

However, if joints occur between the individual parquet elements, these are often not wanted.

Nevertheless, these can hardly be completely avoided – especially with solid parquet there will always be fugue formation.

Accordingly, joints with a width of between 0.1 and 0.5 mm (for parquet on underfloor heating systems up to 0.8 mm) are considered perfectly normal.

If the joint width is between 0.5 and 1 mm, this can be considered a conspicuity, joints over 1 mm are ultimately outside the tolerance range.

However, it is always necessary to take into account the circumstances in which the joints occurred.

In most cases, a expert is consulted in these cases, who clarifies in an expert opinion whether the exceeding of the tolerance limit was caused by the laying work or by other influencing factors, such as lack of measures to control or regulate the air humidity or incorrect heating and ventilation behaviour.

The dimensional tolerances are regulated in the standards ATV DIN 18356 Parquet work and DIN 18202 Tolerances in building construction.

Should parquet joints be filled?

While expansion joints in the edge areas usually disappear behind skirting boards, joints remain visible on the surface of the parquet.

Older parquet, in particular, often has relatively large joints, which is due on the one hand to the previously usual laying distances and on the other hand to the factor time.

However, even relatively newly laid parquet can, for the reasons mentioned above, lead to more joints, especially in winter.

These can not only negatively affect the appearance of the parquet, but sometimes develop into dirt traps that are difficult to clean or – with the appropriate width – to annoying stumbling blocks.

It is therefore perfectly sensible to repair and fill parquet joints. If there are only small dents or scratches in the parquet, these can be repaired with a parquet repair set and melting wax.

Which parquet joint fillers are available?

For filling joints in the parquet floor, there are basically different options that are used depending on the joint width to be able to.

Fugue kitt for parquet

For narrow joints, fugue kit is a proven option. This can also be easily made from wood glue and sawdust itself by mixing both components into a tough mass.

The paste is then applied to the joints with a spatula and, after complete drying, sanded down with a sanding machine or sandpaper and resealed.

Bestseller Nr. 1

10 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Light Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

Bestseller Nr. 2

34 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Dark Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

Bestseller Nr. 3

8 Reviews

LOBA ElastoParkett Red Wood Species - Joint and Gap Filler for Hard Surface Floor Covering*

It is optimal if the joints are repaired within the scope of the parquet renovation.

The grinding dust caused by the grinding process is excellently suited for the production of joint putty and also has the same colour as the parquet.

Alternatively, special joint fillers in different colours can be purchased from specialist retailers. For example, joints can also be deliberately filled in a contrasting colour to give the parquet a new look.

As joint filler is relatively liquid, it is in principle only recommended for joints up to a maximum width of 5 mm, as it can otherwise run out of the joints.

Acrylic-based joint fillers

If wider joints are to be repaired, special acrylic-based joint fillers are the better choice. These are also available in different colour variants and remain permanently elastic even after filling the joints.

This preserves the necessary flexibility so that the parquet can continue to work.

In principle, these properties also apply to silicone. Acrylic joint fillers are still preferred.

This is because, in contrast to silicone joint sealing compound, acrylic joint sealing compound can also be sanded down and painted or oiled without any problems. Due to its brittle consistency, hard or melting wax is also recommended only for removing defects in hardwood flooring and not for filling joints.

In order to achieve an optimal result of the acrylic joint fillers, the joints should first be carefully cleaned.

In doing so, any remaining joint fillings must be removed completely and the joint must be made dust-free with a parquet vacuum cleaner.

In order to work cleanly, it is recommended to glue the edges of the joints with painter’s crepe. This gives the joints an exact closure and avoids unnecessary contamination of the parquet.

For the application of the joint filler, a cartridge press is best used, with which the joint mass is inserted into the joint up to about 1 – 2 mm via plank level, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If the joint filler is dry, this supernade can be cut off or sanded and the joint sealed. Care must be taken to ensure that the products used are compatible with the joint mass.

Filling joints with wooden strips

Regardless of the composition, joint fillers generally have a limited service life of around 10 years.

After that, the joints should be refilled. However, if you want to fill joints for longer, you can also repair them with wooden strips. However, this method involves significantly more work.

In the first step, the joints must be brought to the same width with a knife or planer. Afterwards, the cut and adapted wooden strips with wood glue and wooden hammer are inserted into the joint. Any supernatry is then sanded and the surface sealed.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

What thickness should hardwood floors have?

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

strip parquet:
14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
ship bottom:
14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
mosaic parquet:
8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
lamp parquet:
6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
panel parquet:
approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Oiling hardwood floors – the ultimate guide

Oiled parquet has many advantages, but also needs the right care.

Regularly re-oiling not only makes wear and tear disappear and the hardwood flooring shines in all its glory again, but the floor also receives care and protection. In this article you will learn how to oil your hardwood flooring best and which parquet oils are suitable for this purpose.

Bestseller Nr. 1

479 Reviews

OSMO Polyx Hard Wax Oil .75 L (25.3 Fl. Oz.)*

Bestseller Nr. 2

90 Reviews

Osmo - TopOil - 3045 Clear Satin - 0.5 Liter*

Bestseller Nr. 3

95 Reviews

Osmo - Polyx-Oil - 3054 Clear Satin - 2.5 Liters*

What is oiled parquet?

At the same time as the laying of parquet, the question of the optimum surface finish also arises.

This protects the parquet from dirt and moisture and preserves its characteristic appearance.

Parquet can either be lacquered lacquered or oiled or waxed, whereby the latter has become less and less common in recent years. Which surface finish is the best cannot be said in general terms – it depends on the individual demands on the floor. There are certain differences, especially with regard to appearance and care requirements.

Pros and cons of oiled parquet

While lacquered parquet is fully sealed by the lacquer, oiled parquet is “only” impregnated.

This means that the pores remain open and the wood can continue to breathe, which has a positive effect on the indoor climate. The oil gives the parquet its typical silky matte appearance and underlines the characteristic feel of the wood, which improves the naturalness of the floor.

On the other hand, however, oiled parquet has no additional protective layer. Accordingly, loads and daily stresses act directly on the surface of the floor, which is why wear and tear or damage can occur more quickly.

However, any repair work on oiled parquet can be carried out relatively easily – and also partially – on oiled parquet. Even in the case of major damage, it is often not necessary to sand down the entire floor – re-oiling the affected parquet is sufficient in most cases. Overall, the maintenance and cleaning requirement is nevertheless higher for oiled parquet compared to lacquered surfaces.

What oil is available for parquet?

For the treatment of oiled parquet there are various special parquet oils, which saturate the wood surface and provide protection against moisture and dirt.

When purchasing parquet oil care should be taken to ensure that it is as solvent-free a product as possible, as this is better for the parquet and the room climate as well as for the environment.

In principle, between curing and non-curing oils. Curing oils – also known as 2-component oils – contain synthetic resins that allow the oil to dry faster on the one hand and on the other hand, provide more resistance to the treated surface. Many of these parquet oils offer almost the same protection as a sealing of the soil.

Non-hardening oils or hard oils, on the other hand, usually consist of a mixture of different oils, e.g. linseed oil and walnut oil, and are regarded as particularly natural.

The pores of the wood remain completely open, whereby a parquet floor oiled with hard oil ensures a particularly good exchange of air in the room and also absorbs odours.

However, the surface of the parquet remains more sensitive to dirt and damage, which is why the floor should be additionally waxed afterwards.

Alternatively, hard wax oils can also be used, which are now increasingly produced without solvents on a purely natural basis.

The combination of certain oils and waxes forms a thin layer on the parquet, which closes the wood pores to a certain degree and accordingly in the basic features comes close to a sealing.

Thus, the air exchange between wood and indoor air is restricted, but parquet treated with hard wax oil is also easier to maintain.

The range of different parquet oils is very diverse. The differences between the individual products lie in their composition and their life span.

Bestseller Nr. 1

479 Reviews

OSMO Polyx Hard Wax Oil .75 L (25.3 Fl. Oz.)*

Bestseller Nr. 2

90 Reviews

Osmo - TopOil - 3045 Clear Satin - 0.5 Liter*

Bestseller Nr. 3

95 Reviews

Osmo - Polyx-Oil - 3054 Clear Satin - 2.5 Liters*

In contrast to lacquer, oil cannot change the gloss level of the parquet – oiled floors are always matt – but the wood can be stained with special coloured oils in a wide variety of nuances.

In general, the color of the parquet becomes a trace darker or richer due to the oiling.

However, parquet can be oiled also white with specially pigmented products, which makes the floor slightly lighter and makes it look as if it has been freshly sanded.

An impregnation of the parquet – and the associated protection against moisture and dirt – is achieved with coloured oils just as with conventional colourless parquet oils.

Many parquet manufacturers either offer their own coordinated parquet oils or make product recommendations for suitable oils. Therefore, before re-oiling parquet, the manufacturer’s instructions for the respective parquet should be observed.

Oils or waxes?

Rubbing wooden floors with beeswax to protect it from dirt and damage has previously been a proven method.

Pure waxed parquet has become increasingly important in recent years. However, the combination of oil and wax is still very popular with parquet in order to underline the naturalness of the parquet in the best possible way and to provide the wood with appropriate protection.

This is because the surface of purely oiled parquet remains relatively sensitive and receives additional protection through the wax .

Both warm and cold wax can be used after the parquet oil has completely dried. While cold wax can sometimes also be rubbed evenly into the wood by hand with a sponge, warm wax requires a special wax machine with which the wax is heated and applied to the parquet at a constant temperature. After the parquet has grown, the parquet must be polished – preferably with a polishing machine.

Parquet oiling: How it works

Regardless of which parquet oil the floor is treated with, should be done when oiling parquet according to the following instructions:

Reworking the parquet

Before the parquet can be re-oiled, it must be completely sanded down. This is usually necessary even with newly laid parquet, if only to remove possible residues of the parquet adhesive. It is important to proceed extremely evenly and carefully and to work your way from coarse to fine on the raw wood in several passes. Only in this way can the oil penetrate deep into the pores of the wood and achieve the desired result.

Since sanding down the parquet is quite demanding, this should only be carried out by experienced do-it-yourselfers on their own.

2. Thorough cleaning

Sanding the hardwood flooring produces a lot of fine dust. Since parquet oil binds it, all surfaces in the room must be thoroughly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, so that a completely dust-free environment is guaranteed.

3. Ensuring proper room conditions

The oiling of parquet requires certain room conditions. For example, the parquet should not be exposed to direct sunlight, so that it does not heat up too much. The room temperature should be between 18 and 25 degrees when the parquet oil is applied.

4. Filling joints

The dust produced by sanding the parquet is also ideal for repairing smaller, damaged joints when mixed with joint filler. For larger joints, however, the use of special joint sealing compound is recommended.

5. Apply parquet oil

Once the preparations have been completed, the actual oiling of the parquet can be started.

First stir the parquet oil thoroughly and then apply it evenly and systematically to the parquet. It is best to start in a corner and work towards the exit. Surfaces with more than 30 m2 should be oiled in sections so that the oil does not dry too quickly.

A scooter or a brush suitable for wooden floors can be used to distribute the oil.

It works even easier when a small amount of oil is carefully poured onto the parquet and smeared with a rubber scraper or a stainless steel smoothing. For corners and edges, it is recommended to use a brush.

As an alternative to applying the parquet oil by hand, polishing machines can also be used. The white/beige polishing pad is used to distribute and massage the oil on the parquet.

6. Allow oil to act

The thinly applied parquet oil then requires around 15 minutes to be able to move into the wood. If parquet is oiled with too much oil, you can stains are created. Therefore, it is important to ensure that there are no oil puddles on the parquet.

7. Remove oil residues

After the start-up time, the excess oil is removed with dry, lint-free cotton cloths.

The oil-soaked cloths should then be placed in a bucket of water, otherwise there is a risk of spontaneous combustion. Please take this very seriously. Whole houses have burned down just because a cloth soaked in oil ignited itself.

8. Let oil dry

If sufficient ventilation is provided, the surface is then Night completely dried. If the colour result is not yet intensive enough, the operation can be repeated again.

When is parquet accessible again after oiling?

Parquet flooring can be walked on again carefully around 24 hours after oiling, but furniture should only be set up after 48 hours and carpets should only be laid after one week.

If the parquet has been committed too early, footprints may remain in the surface.

If this occurs, the oil should be wiped away as soon as possible. If the oil has already dried, the place can be rubbed again with oil or sanded slightly.

Even with the mopping of the parquet should be waited at least one week. desk mats, or chair mats should only be re-applied after approx. 14 days.

Parquet re-oiling – how often?

Freshly sanded parquet should in principle be 2 times thoroughly treated with high-quality parquet oil. The time interval to the next After-oiling depends on the type of parquet oil used, the degree of stress and also according to the type of wood.

While oxidative curing oils have to be re-oiled after 1 to 2 years – and even earlier in the case of heavy loads – two-component oils offer longer protection due to the additional chemical reaction and usually only have to be re-oiled every 3 to 5 years.

In order to maintain the protection of the oiled parquet for as long as possible and to delay the need for grinding, especially unwaxed floors should be refreshed at regular intervals with special care oils.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Instructions: Polishing hardwood floors – how to do it right

Like any other floor, parquet wears off over time. Regular polishing not only restores parquet to new gloss, but also protects the floor better against dirt, dust and moisture.

Why is parquet polishing useful?

parquet is exposed to more or less high loads every day, which leave their marks over time. In addition to the daily cleaning, parquet therefore also needs regular care to keep it beautiful and to increase its lifespan. Although the service life can be considerably extended by protective measures such as support for office chairs, at some point even this no longer helps.

Polishing parquet is a proven method of freshening up the floor. First and foremost, polishing parquet achieves a visual effect, but at the same time it also makes the floor more resistant to dirt, dust and moisture. In addition, polishing small scratches or signs of wear and tear can be removed from the hardwood flooring without having to sand the entire floor.

When and how often is parquet to polish?

At what intervals parquet is to be polished is related to the degree of stress.

With average wear, parquet should be polished once or twice a year. However, it may also be necessary more often if the parquet is exposed to heavy loads, normal cleaning is no longer sufficient to remove contaminants or if the floor simply does not like any more. Especially before winter, polishing the parquet is recommended, as the floor is better protected from the impending increased load of wet and dirty shoes.

Can any parquet be polished?

The surface of parquet can be either varnished, oiled or waxed – any parquet can be polished.

However, there may be some differences in effort. With oiled and waxed parquet, the floor is only impregnated and the pores of the wood remain open. As a result, the oil or wax dissens over time and the gloss of the parquet decreases.

Therefore oiled or waxed parquet needs more care than lacquered parquet.

In this variant, the surface is completely sealed by the paint. The protective layer also decreases over time, but usually primarily in places with heavy stress. Sealed parquet is therefore sometimes less frequent polishing or it may be sufficient to merely partially repolish the claimed areas.

Polishing parquet: How it works

The preparation

Before polishing the parquet can begin, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is best to remove furniture and carpets from the room so that the parquet is completely clear. Afterwards, all dust and dirt must be thoroughly removed from the hardwood flooring with the vacuum cleaner or broom; cleaning with a damp cloth should also be carried out.

Before the polishing process is also the optimal time to carry out repair work on the parquet. Small scratches, cracks or holes can be treated with a repair kit and then polished. It is important that the processed areas are completely dry before the polishing process starts.

The polishing process

Earlier on, polishing hardwood flooring was a time-consuming and laborious process. Heated floor wax was applied to the parquet by hand or with bulky and heavy floor polishing machines. This resulted in a wax layer covering the entire surface during each polishing process, which sometimes chipped off in places with little wear and tear, e.g. under furniture, thus necessitating extensive basic cleaning or even the abrasive removal of the entire floor.

What polishing with?

Nowadays liquid polish is mainly used for polishing parquet.

It consists, among other things, of plastics or synthetic resin, which makes it particularly well adhered and tear-resistant and also easier to process.

Modern parquet polishes are commercially available as a ready-to-use mixture or for enriching with water and in a glossy or matt finish. When buying the polish, make sure that it does not contain silicone oils or derivatives of mineral oils, as these can damage the parquet.

Many manufacturers also offer special polishes for their parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations should be observed when polishing.

How the polish is applied to the parquet depends on the respective product. There are polishing agents in spray bottles that can be sprayed onto the floor.

Others, on the other hand, must first be diluted with water and applied to the parquet with a mop or cloth. Only now does the actual polishing begin.

If parquet is polished by hand, the polish is uniformly incorporated into the parquet with a wool or polishing cloth in fast, circular movements until the desired gloss effect is created.

Especially with unsealed parquet, a second polishing process may be necessary.

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Polishing machines for parquet

However, manual polishing of parquet is very force- and time-consuming.

The polishing process works much more easily with special polishing machines for parquet – also called bohner machines or blockers.

These are equipped with various polishing pads, which can be used, depending on the application, for removing dirt, for basic cleaning, for re-oiling parquet or for incorporateing the polish.

The dead weight of the polishing machine generates considerably more pressure on the polishing pad than would be possible with manual polishing, and this not only makes the polishing process easier and faster, but also ensures a more efficient result.

In principle A car polishing machine can also be used for polishing parquet. However, this is only recommended in the marginal areas, polishing the entire floor surface would be much too complicated.

In most DIY stores or specialist retailers there are polishing machines for parquet to rent or rent – the cost is around 20 to 30 euros per day plus deposit.

Of course, polishing machines are also available for purchase, although the acquisition costs are usually relatively high.

However, with regular use, the investment can still be worthwhile. Polishing machines for private use are usually not only suitable for refreshing parquet, but also for growing and polishing other floors.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Can laminate be laid on hardwood floors?

parquet is a robust and durable floor covering. Nevertheless, it can happen that a new floor is desired in the course of renovation or remodelling and laminate is chosen. The question then arises as to the correct procedure for laying laminate on hardwood flooring.

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

In general, it should be noted that laminate can not be laid on every type of parquet.

Only fully glued parquet is suitable as a subfloor for the new floor – in this case there is nothing to prevent direct installation.

Laying laminate on floating parquet is not recommended. In this case the parquet should first be completely removed before the new floor can be laid.

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

Apart from the fact that the parquet must be fully glued, there are a number of other factors involved in the laying of laminate must be taken into account on parquet:

Just like the screed when laying a new floor, the parquet must be clean, dry and level before the laminate can be laid on it. Larger unevenness should be levelled in advance by sanding or filling with levelling compound. However, minor unevenness of approx. 1 to 2 mm can usually be compensated with a impact sound insulation for parquet .

The impact sound insulation is highly recommended for laminate on parquet because the combination of the two floor coverings would otherwise be very noisy.

Moisture-permeable insulating materials such as cork or cardboard are suitable. It is even easier if a laminate with integrated footfall sound insulation is used.

A vapour barrier, on the other hand, should not be used for laminate parquet always. Parquet is a wooden floor that absorbs or releases moisture. This could easily cause waterlogging under the PVC film, which would result in permanent damage to the floor.

In order to achieve more stability of the floor, the laminate should be laid crosswise to the existing parquet. It should be noted, however, that light incidence can cause a changed joint pattern.

The use of click laminate is recommended, as this is not only relatively easy to install without expert help, but can also be removed again without leaving any residue, as it does not have to be glued.

Since laminate expands and contracts again with temperature fluctuations, expansion joints should be taken into account when laying laminate on hardwood flooring. This gives the floor the necessary clearance without causing undesirable joint formation or dents.

If laminate is laid on hardwood flooring, this changes the construction height, or thickness of the flooring. It may therefore be necessary to shorten door frames or leaves accordingly. Height differences at transitions can be laminated with profiles.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Removing water stains from hardwood floor: Here’s how it works

A spilled glass or a bucket that has fallen over – water can quickly get onto the hardwood flooring due to minor inattention and cause unsightly water stains. This article will show you how best to remove them.

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How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Prolonged water exposure does not be good for the parquet.

Because the soil from the natural raw material wood reacts to moisture. In order to avoid damage in the parquet, water laughter should therefore be avoided in general.

Should an accident nevertheless occur, the following applies: The faster the water is wiped up, the better.

If it is removed in a timely manner, no undesirable consequences can be feared due to the wetness.

However, if water remains on the parquet for a longer period of time, it can penetrate into the joints and lead to increased swelling of the floor. Water stains also only occur if the wetness can penetrate the parquet.

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Water stains on the parquet are annoying because they affect the appearance of the floor.

The good news is, however, that damage caused by water spots in the parquet can be repaired relatively well. Depending on whether it is a bright or a dark water stain or oiled or lacquered parquet, there are different approaches.

Remove bright water stains

Bright water spots are only superficial – the water has not penetrated into the interior of the parquet.

Bright water stains can be easily removed from both painted and oiled parquet floors.

No aggressive cleaners are necessary, simple household remedies are completely sufficient in most cases:

Simply apply water-dissolved baking soda or salt, white toothpaste, lubricating soap or paint gasoline to the bright water stain in the parquet and remove with a soft cloth.

The cleaned area can then be treated with oil or sealed sealed.

Remove dark water stains

Dark water stains indicate that the water has penetrated the parquet and reacted with the tannic acid contained in the wood (for oak parquet and acacia). This is why the removal of dark water stains in hardwood flooring is different from the removal of light-coloured stains. The actual cost depends on whether the parquet has been oiled or varnished.

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Oiled parquet

In the case of oiled parquet, it is possible to treat the water stain with special tannic acid stain sprays even without pre-treatment and to remove light water edges with it.

The more complex, but also more reliable method is to grind down the affected area and re-oil it. In the case of very small stains, it is also possible to cut out the area with a cutter knife and then repair it with a parquet repair kit.

The oil layer must first be removed – this works best with coarse sanding paper.

When the water stain is reached, use fine sandpaper to avoid sanding too much of the surface. The water stain can be treated with even sanding movements until it is no longer visible. Afterwards, the fine dust produced is removed with a vacuum cleaner and a new layer of oil is applied. Visible transitions/gloss differences between old and new oil layer can sometimes be adjusted with steel wool. Often the colour differences disappear after a few years by themselves, through the regular use of parquet care. Finally, the entire parquet should be treated with suitable care products.

Painted parquet

In principle, this method is also possible to remove water stains from lacquered parquet. However, partial sanding always leads to colour differences in the parquet, as the floor darkens over time. Therefore, in such cases the complete parquet floor must actually be sanded down. This is the only way to avoid differences in colour and gloss.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Can hardwood floors be laid on tiles?

If an existing floor covering of tiles is to be replaced with parquet, this is generally possible without removing the old tiles.

However, there are a number of important aspects to consider when laying parquet on tiles. The following article will tell you what these are.

Which parquet is for laying on tiles Suitable?

Multilayer parquet is best suited for laying on tiles.

Due to its construction in several layers, less tension is transferred from the parquet to the underlying tiles.

But also the laying of solid parquet is possible in principle. However, in this case it is advisable to use a decoupling pad (e.g. fleece) as a transition between tiles and parquet, as this reduces the voltages occurring.

The best choice for solid parquet is oak, as this type of parquet has relatively low swelling and shrinkage behaviour compared to other parquet types – even in damp conditions – and works correspondingly less.

What is to be done in the preparation of the tiled floor Note?

With the tiled floor itself, it is advantageous if it is as large, stable tiles as possible. Mosaic tiles are suitable for laying of parquet less good, as the many joints make it easy to deformations of the parquet.

Before parquet can be laid on tiles, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is necessary to clean the tiles thoroughly in the first step and remove all dirt and residues of care products, otherwise a separating layer may form and the parquet adhesive may not hold properly.

Furthermore, the substrate for laying parquet on tiles must be flat and solid.

Therefore, it is necessary to check carefully whether the existing tiles still adhere accordingly to the substrate.

The best way to find out is to tap every single tile. If hollow-sounding or loose tiles are discovered during this process, they should be removed together with tile adhesive seam and the resulting gaps in the floor filled with filler.

The tiled floor is then sanded and – if necessary – a 2-component epoxy resin primer is applied as an adhesion bridge. This is too smooth on its own after drying to absorb a levelling compound. Therefore the primer must be sprinkled with quartz sand directly during application. This is the only way to ensure mechanical bonding of the filler to be applied afterwards.

The final and decisive step in laying parquet on tiles is theapplication of a suitable levelling compound, with which joints and other unevenness in the tiled floor are levelled.

Only when the substrate is completely dry, flat and solid can the parquet be laid on the tiles. The prepared work requires the greatest care, so that there are no undesirable problems when laying the parquet.

It is therefore generally advisable to have parquet laid on tiles by a specialist.

Parquet on tiles: fully glued or floating Moved?

Basically, parquet can be laid on tiles both full-surface glued as well as floating . In both cases, dismantling is not possible, as the tiles are severely affected by the preceding preparations and are no longer visually appealing.

In general, experts recommend full-surface gluing of parquet to tiles using parquet adhesive, as this type of installation has certain advantages:

Due to the fixed connection with the substrate, fully glued parquet ensures a pleasant kicking feeling and also prevents sound transmission.

Therefore, in this case, footfall sound insulation is not necessary. With floating installation, on the other hand, the parquet only lies loosely on the tiles and thus amplifies the sound. Accordingly, it is essential to ensure effective impact sound insulation for this type of installation.

In addition, a vapour barrier is required for floating parquet on tiles in order to be able to absorb any moisture on the substrate.

It should be noted that the floor construction with floating laid parquet on tiles becomes considerably higher due to the required steam barrier and impact sound insulation than with fully glued parquet.

As a result, there may be unsightly height differences at transitions to other floor coverings or doors may have to be shortened.

In rooms with floor heating, floating parquet on tiles is not recommended. The additional layers have a strong thermal insulation effect and lead to a reduced thermal conductivity of the floor.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Laying direction of hardwood flooring: something you should consider

There is no right or wrong for the laying direction of parquet.

However, it is crucial that the overall impression and atmosphere of the room are significantly influenced by this. The following article gives you an overview of how the laying direction of parquet affects a room – and what you should consider when making your decision.

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Basically, a distinction can be made between three variants in the laying direction of parquet:

Along
Across
or diagonal.

Depending on the size of the room, the structural conditions and the light incidence, a room acquires its own character.

Room size

The size of a room can be visually consciously influenced by the installation direction of parquet.

The laying of hardwood flooring on the long side emphasizes the room shape. So if the parquet is laid in the direction of the longer side of the room, the room looks even longer. By laying the parquet across the floor, however, rooms appear wider.

In itself, even wide spaces achieve more depth effect when transversely laid, while narrow, long corridors are optically shortened and widened – and thus appear more even. If, on the other hand, a installation takes place in the direction of space, the room is additionally “stretched”.

In addition to the laying direction, the dimensions of the parquet elements, or the parquet type also affect the visual size of the room.

The following principle applies: The larger the parquet parts, the smaller the room.

If a room is to be enlarged visually, it should therefore be used in return for small-format parquet.

If a room is not to be emphasized in either direction, cube patterns or cassette shelves are optimal. These appear neutral in any room, regardless of whether they are laid parallel to the walls or at a certain angle.

The classic herringbone parquet is also suitable if neither longitudinal nor transversely laid parquet is desired.

Light

In living rooms with windows, the interplay of natural light incidence and installation direction of the parquet also plays a role in terms of the spatial effect.

If the parquet is laid in the direction of the primary light source, the light is optically directed to the centre of the room and refracts less, so that joints in the parquet are hardly visible.

If, in contrast, the parquet is laid transversely to the light source, these not only appear wider, but also joints, shocks and graining of the wood are more pronounced by the refraction of light.

If the characteristic appearance of the parquet is to be consciously underlined, it is therefore recommended to cross-laying, if it is to remain more discreet, longitudinal laying is the better choice. It should also be noted that when the parquet is laid across, not only the texture of the wood is underlined, but also unevenness or possible signs of wear and tear become more visible.

Building conditions

Walls and ceilings as well as the direction of support beams can also have an effect on the optimal installation direction of parquet.

If differently laid room elements cross, the room appears restless, which in turn can have a negative effect on the living atmosphere. Therefore, different directions of laying should be avoided as a matter of principle.

In addition, in nailed dressing floors, such as they are often used in very large rooms, longitudinal direction is preferred, as this meets the spring and shrinkage behavior of the parquet.

In order to be able to allow for the expansion joints required for floating installation, care should also be taken when choosing the direction of installation to ensure that the parquet does not extend beyond door thresholds, but is laid individually in each room.

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Unless special structural conditions make a particular installation direction necessary, design aspects and personal preferences are in the foreground of the decision.

However, since the laying direction of parquet is of great importance in terms of the character and atmosphere of a room, as mentioned above, the final decision should be taken by the owner.

In addition, it can be quite helpful to test the effect of the laying direction on site using several wooden strips or parquet samples before parquet laying or to simulate this virtually on the computer using special interior design programs.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Impact sound insulation for hardwood floors: An overview of the most important information

If the decision has been made in favour of parquet as a floor covering, it is not only the design and decor of the parquet that is important. The necessary attention should also be paid to the appropriate footfall sound insulation.

In this article we have summarised why this is so important, what its tasks are and what is important when choosing the best impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring. We have already written an article elsewhere on the subject of impact sound insulation for vinyl floors.

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Why is footfall sound insulation so important for parquet?

The most important task of footfall sound insulation in parquet is primarily an acoustic one, because every strain on the parquet causes a noise.

A distinction is made between walking sound and impact sound. While walking sound is only perceived in the room itself, footfall sound is also transmitted over walls and floor to surrounding premises.

Whether steps, armchair backs or the vibration of the washing machine – without appropriate footfall sound insulation, any use of the parquet would also be heard in rooms adjacent to the respective room with hardwood flooring by the way, above or below.

For this reason, footfall sound insulation as a minimum requirement for sound insulation is now also mandatory.

Regulated in the DIN 4109 “Noise insulation in building construction”, the regulations on impact sound insulation serve to protect people in surrounding living and working spaces from unacceptable sound transmission.

However, this regulation only applies to new buildings, old buildings are currently excluded from the requirements for sound insulation.

However, footfall sound insulation is useful in all rooms, so that not every step can be heard throughout the house.

Above all floating parquet vibrates with every movement and thus behaves like a resonance body that transmits the impact sound to the screed underneath and thus amplifies it even further.

However, even without any clearance between the parquet and the subfloor – as is the case with parquet glued over the entire surface parquet – a noise is generated which can be counteracted with impact sound insulation.

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Other functions of impact sound insulation under parquet

In addition to sound insulation, footfall sound insulation under parquet fulfils other tasks.

Depending on the material used, unevenness in the subfloor can thus be compensated to a certain extent, which ultimately ensures a more even result when laying parquet.

Furthermore, parquet insulation also protects against rising cold from the subfloor and therefore has an additional thermal insulation effect, although impact sound insulation cannot replace adequate insulation .

What materials are available for parquet footfall sound insulation?

In the search for impact sound insulation for hardwood flooring, there are various solutions that are often referred to in the trade as impact sound insulation mats or parquet underlays .

All products have in common that the parquet is protected by the impact sound insulation and that it can be laid floating without any problems.

Although a full-surface bonding of the parquet is accordingly not required, the footfall sound insulation in the parquet, however, further reduces the sound unwinding.

Commercially available footfall sound insulation for parquet can be different materials.

Plastic

Plastic impact sound insulation is made of PE foam (polyethylene foam) and is available in sheets or films in different thicknesses and finishes.

In principle, a footfall sound insulation made of PE foam can be used under all floors, the differences lie in the thickness of the insulation material as well as in its insulation value.

For hard, noisy parquet, the use of stronger PE foam panels is recommended, as they better insulate the impact sound, while for softer and quieter floors, thinner aluminium films with glued-on PE layer also serve good.

Not to be confused is a footfall sound insulation made of PE film with the conventional PE film, which is used for the insertion of vapour barriers.

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Cork

The natural product cork not only has tread-sound-insulating properties, but is also known for its thermally insulating effect.

A footfall sound insulation made of cork is available as panels or on rolls and can be cut easily and individually, which makes the laying work much easier.

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Wood fibre

Panels made of debarked and crushed into wood fibres residual wood are also well suited as footfall sound insulation for parquet.

Due to the size of the panels, a fast, comprehensive installation is possible. Footfall sound insulation made of wood fibre panels not only has a sound proofing effect, but also heat insulating and moisture-regulating.

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Hemp felt

Available as different widths and long rolls, hemp felt offers not only protection against noise, but also from cold.

In addition, the material properties make it easy to compensate for unevenness in the soil.

Otherwise, alternative materials such as:

Styrofoam (EPS)
Ripple board
Coconut fibre
Expanded clay spill

What is the best footfall sound insulation for parquet?

Which footfall sound insulation is the best depends on the underbody.

Whereas in the case of impact sound insulation the principle used to apply, the denser or thicker, the better, the differences between the different materials in terms of sound insulation are relatively small nowadays.

In contrast to most products used in building and living, there is no published test for impact sound insulation.

In order to be able to compare the different impact sound insulations, certain characteristic values and standardized test methods have been developed, which are based on the different requirements for impact sound insulation.

Constructive requirements

The design requirements for footfall sound insulation for Parquet essentially comprises three factors:

Moisture protection

If parquet is laid on a mineral substrate such as screed, the moisture protection of the impact sound insulation plays a decisive role.

In order to be able to block residual moisture from the substrate, a steam barrier or steam brake is necessary. Modern impact sound insulation is now often already equipped with an integrated moisture film, so that no additional film has to be laid. The key figure is the SD value, which should be at least 75 m.

It is important that impact sound insulation with an integrated steam barrier must not be used if it is a wooden substrate.

Any residual moisture would then remain trapped in the substructure and could not escape upwards, resulting in permanent damage to the substructure.

Compensation of unevenness

The PC value defines the balancing capacity of the impact sound insulation – i.e. how high spot bumps in the underbody can be. Since the subsurfaces erected in accordance with the norm have a maximum of 1 mm high spot unevenness, a PC value of 0.5 mm is usually sufficient for the impact sound insulation for parquet.

Coarser unevenness of more than 3 mm must in any case be levelled out in advance by grinding or filling with levelling compound.

Thermal insulation value or heat flow behaviour

The thermal insulation value is particularly important if the parquet footfall sound insulation is laid on underfloor heating systems with parquet.

This is because the floor is heated – or cooled – the material should have as little thermal insulation as possible, while unheated floors should have the highest possible heat transfer resistance.

The recommended thermal insulation values for impact sound insulation for Parquet are:

0,06 m²K/W bei Böden mit Fußbodenheizung
0.04m²K/W for cooled floors
0.075m²K/W for unheated floors

However, the decisive factor for impact sound insulation on parquet with underfloor heating is that the thermal resistance for the entire floor structure must not exceed 0.15 m²K/W. Accordingly, not only the value of the footfall sound insulation alone is decisive, but must always be considered in combination with the value of the floor covering.

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Requirements for resilience

The degree of stress on the floor also plays a role in the selection of the footfall sound insulation for parquet is a role. Because the parquet underlay must be can withstand different loads described by means of key figures. to become.

Dynamic loads

These recurring loads, such as walking the parquet or moving armchairs or other pieces of furniture, are expressed in cycles – the longer the characteristics of the impact sound insulation remain unchanged under load, the higher the specified value.

The minimum requirement at normal level of stress, as is the case in residential areas, is 10,000 cycles.

Permanent / temporary loads

Heavy pieces of furniture lead to permanent or temporary Impact sound insulation loads for parquet. While the minimum requirement of 10kPA (1t/m²) for temporary loads mostly absolute is sufficient, the value of 2kPA (200 kg/m²) can be used for permanent loads from kitchen furniture or large cabinets, for example, can be reached quickly, which is primarily important for thin footfall sound insulation.

Protection against heavy falling objects

The RLB value indicates the height from which an item is floor may fall without damaging the impact sound insulation Suffers. The minimum requirement here is 50 cm, but the value should be significantly higher.

Acoustic requirements

As already mentioned, a distinction is made between walking sound and footfall sound when making noises.

The acoustic requirements for impact sound insulation for parquet basically cover both. However, there are still no concrete reference values with regard to the reduction of walking noise .

However, the situation is different when it comes to impact sound minimization: For example, the volume of impact sound with appropriate parquet insulation should be at least 14 db lower by than without, with good impact sound insulation achieving values of 20 db and more.

26. January 2021/0 Comments/by Leon Baum

Parquet adhesive recommendations from this article:

What are the advantages of sticking parquet?

What parquet adhesives are there?

Silane-based adhesives

Reaction resin adhesives

Dispersion adhesives

Powder adhesives

Parquet glue with solvents

Beware of old parquet adhesives!

Gluing parquet: That’s what matters

What is the best way to apply parquet adhesive?

How much parquet glue is needed?

How much do parquet adhesives cost?

Remove parquet glue

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

What creates joints in the parquet?

Are joints in the parquet a deficiency?

Should parquet joints be filled?

Which parquet joint fillers are available?

Fugue kitt for parquet

Acrylic-based joint fillers

Filling joints with wooden strips

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

3-layer hardwood flooring:

Special shape: veneer parquet

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

What is oiled parquet?

Pros and cons of oiled parquet

What oil is available for parquet?

Oils or waxes?

Parquet oiling: How it works

Reworking the parquet

2. Thorough cleaning

3. Ensuring proper room conditions

4. Filling joints

5. Apply parquet oil

6. Allow oil to act

7. Remove oil residues

8. Let oil dry

When is parquet accessible again after oiling?

Parquet re-oiling – how often?

Recommended polishing machines from this article:

Why is parquet polishing useful?

When and how often is parquet to polish?

Can any parquet be polished?

Polishing parquet: How it works

The preparation

The polishing process

What polishing with?

Polishing machines for parquet

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Remove bright water stains

Remove dark water stains

Oiled parquet

Painted parquet

Which parquet is for laying on tiles Suitable?

What is to be done in the preparation of the tiled floor Note?

Parquet on tiles: fully glued or floating Moved?

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Room size

Light

Building conditions

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Why is footfall sound insulation so important for parquet?

Other functions of impact sound insulation under parquet

What materials are available for parquet footfall sound insulation?

Plastic

Cork

Wood fibre

Hemp felt

What is the best footfall sound insulation for parquet?

Constructive requirements

Moisture protection