A spilled glass or a bucket that has fallen over – water can quickly get onto the hardwood flooring due to minor inattention and cause unsightly water stains. This article will show you how best to remove them.

How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Prolonged water exposure does not be good for the parquet.

Because the soil from the natural raw material wood reacts to moisture. In order to avoid damage in the parquet, water laughter should therefore be avoided in general.

Should an accident nevertheless occur, the following applies: The faster the water is wiped up, the better.

If it is removed in a timely manner, no undesirable consequences can be feared due to the wetness.

However, if water remains on the parquet for a longer period of time, it can penetrate into the joints and lead to increased swelling of the floor. Water stains also only occur if the wetness can penetrate the parquet.

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Water stains on the parquet are annoying because they affect the appearance of the floor.

The good news is, however, that damage caused by water spots in the parquet can be repaired relatively well. Depending on whether it is a bright or a dark water stain or oiled or lacquered parquet, there are different approaches.

Remove bright water stains

Bright water spots are only superficial – the water has not penetrated into the interior of the parquet.

Bright water stains can be easily removed from both painted and oiled parquet floors.

No aggressive cleaners are necessary, simple household remedies are completely sufficient in most cases:

Simply apply water-dissolved baking soda or salt, white toothpaste, lubricating soap or paint gasoline to the bright water stain in the parquet and remove with a soft cloth.

The cleaned area can then be treated with oil or sealed sealed.

Remove dark water stains

Dark water stains indicate that the water has penetrated the parquet and reacted with the tannic acid contained in the wood (for oak parquet and acacia). This is why the removal of dark water stains in hardwood flooring is different from the removal of light-coloured stains. The actual cost depends on whether the parquet has been oiled or varnished.

Oiled parquet

In the case of oiled parquet, it is possible to treat the water stain with special tannic acid stain sprays even without pre-treatment and to remove light water edges with it.

The more complex, but also more reliable method is to grind down the affected area and re-oil it. In the case of very small stains, it is also possible to cut out the area with a cutter knife and then repair it with a parquet repair kit.

The oil layer must first be removed – this works best with coarse sanding paper.

When the water stain is reached, use fine sandpaper to avoid sanding too much of the surface. The water stain can be treated with even sanding movements until it is no longer visible. Afterwards, the fine dust produced is removed with a vacuum cleaner and a new layer of oil is applied. Visible transitions/gloss differences between old and new oil layer can sometimes be adjusted with steel wool. Often the colour differences disappear after a few years by themselves, through the regular use of parquet care. Finally, the entire parquet should be treated with suitable care products.

Painted parquet

In principle, this method is also possible to remove water stains from lacquered parquet. However, partial sanding always leads to colour differences in the parquet, as the floor darkens over time. Therefore, in such cases the complete parquet floor must actually be sanded down. This is the only way to avoid differences in colour and gloss.

parquet is a robust and durable floor covering. Nevertheless, it can happen that a new floor is desired in the course of renovation or remodelling and laminate is chosen. The question then arises as to the correct procedure for laying laminate on hardwood flooring.

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

In general, it should be noted that laminate can not be laid on every type of parquet.

Only fully glued parquet is suitable as a subfloor for the new floor – in this case there is nothing to prevent direct installation.

Laying laminate on floating parquet is not recommended. In this case the parquet should first be completely removed before the new floor can be laid.

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

Apart from the fact that the parquet must be fully glued, there are a number of other factors involved in the laying of laminate must be taken into account on parquet:

Just like the screed when laying a new floor, the parquet must be clean, dry and level before the laminate can be laid on it. Larger unevenness should be levelled in advance by sanding or filling with levelling compound. However, minor unevenness of approx. 1 to 2 mm can usually be compensated with a impact sound insulation for parquet .

The impact sound insulation is highly recommended for laminate on parquet because the combination of the two floor coverings would otherwise be very noisy.

Moisture-permeable insulating materials such as cork or cardboard are suitable. It is even easier if a laminate with integrated footfall sound insulation is used.

A vapour barrier, on the other hand, should not be used for laminate parquet always. Parquet is a wooden floor that absorbs or releases moisture. This could easily cause waterlogging under the PVC film, which would result in permanent damage to the floor.

In order to achieve more stability of the floor, the laminate should be laid crosswise to the existing parquet. It should be noted, however, that light incidence can cause a changed joint pattern.

The use of click laminate is recommended, as this is not only relatively easy to install without expert help, but can also be removed again without leaving any residue, as it does not have to be glued.

Since laminate expands and contracts again with temperature fluctuations, expansion joints should be taken into account when laying laminate on hardwood flooring. This gives the floor the necessary clearance without causing undesirable joint formation or dents.

If laminate is laid on hardwood flooring, this changes the construction height, or thickness of the flooring. It may therefore be necessary to shorten door frames or leaves accordingly. Height differences at transitions can be laminated with profiles.

Like any other floor, parquet wears off over time. Regular polishing not only restores parquet to new gloss, but also protects the floor better against dirt, dust and moisture.

Recommended polishing machines from this article:

How to polish your parquet in the best way and which polishing machines can be used for it, you will learn in the following article.

Why is parquet polishing useful?

parquet is exposed to more or less high loads every day, which leave their marks over time. In addition to the daily cleaning, parquet therefore also needs regular care to keep it beautiful and to increase its lifespan. Although the service life can be considerably extended by protective measures such as support for office chairs, at some point even this no longer helps.

Polishing parquet is a proven method of freshening up the floor. First and foremost, polishing parquet achieves a visual effect, but at the same time it also makes the floor more resistant to dirt, dust and moisture. In addition, polishing small scratches or signs of wear and tear can be removed from the hardwood flooring without having to sand the entire floor.

When and how often is parquet to polish?

At what intervals parquet is to be polished is related to the degree of stress.

With average wear, parquet should be polished once or twice a year. However, it may also be necessary more often if the parquet is exposed to heavy loads, normal cleaning is no longer sufficient to remove contaminants or if the floor simply does not like any more. Especially before winter, polishing the parquet is recommended, as the floor is better protected from the impending increased load of wet and dirty shoes.

Can any parquet be polished?

The surface of parquet can be either varnished, oiled or waxed – any parquet can be polished.

However, there may be some differences in effort. With oiled and waxed parquet, the floor is only impregnated and the pores of the wood remain open. As a result, the oil or wax dissens over time and the gloss of the parquet decreases.

Therefore oiled or waxed parquet needs more care than lacquered parquet.

In this variant, the surface is completely sealed by the paint. The protective layer also decreases over time, but usually primarily in places with heavy stress. Sealed parquet is therefore sometimes less frequent polishing or it may be sufficient to merely partially repolish the claimed areas.

Polishing parquet: How it works

The preparation

Before polishing the parquet can begin, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is best to remove furniture and carpets from the room so that the parquet is completely clear. Afterwards, all dust and dirt must be thoroughly removed from the hardwood flooring with the vacuum cleaner or broom; cleaning with a damp cloth should also be carried out.

Before the polishing process is also the optimal time to carry out repair work on the parquet. Small scratches, cracks or holes can be treated with a repair kit and then polished. It is important that the processed areas are completely dry before the polishing process starts.

The polishing process

Earlier on, polishing hardwood flooring was a time-consuming and laborious process. Heated floor wax was applied to the parquet by hand or with bulky and heavy floor polishing machines. This resulted in a wax layer covering the entire surface during each polishing process, which sometimes chipped off in places with little wear and tear, e.g. under furniture, thus necessitating extensive basic cleaning or even the abrasive removal of the entire floor.

What polishing with?

Nowadays liquid polish is mainly used for polishing parquet.

It consists, among other things, of plastics or synthetic resin, which makes it particularly well adhered and tear-resistant and also easier to process.

Modern parquet polishes are commercially available as a ready-to-use mixture or for enriching with water and in a glossy or matt finish. When buying the polish, make sure that it does not contain silicone oils or derivatives of mineral oils, as these can damage the parquet.

Many manufacturers also offer special polishes for their parquet – therefore, the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations should be observed when polishing.

How the polish is applied to the parquet depends on the respective product. There are polishing agents in spray bottles that can be sprayed onto the floor.

Others, on the other hand, must first be diluted with water and applied to the parquet with a mop or cloth. Only now does the actual polishing begin.

If parquet is polished by hand, the polish is uniformly incorporated into the parquet with a wool or polishing cloth in fast, circular movements until the desired gloss effect is created.

Especially with unsealed parquet, a second polishing process may be necessary.

Polishing machines for parquet

However, manual polishing of parquet is very force- and time-consuming.

The polishing process works much more easily with special polishing machines for parquet – also called bohner machines or blockers.

These are equipped with various polishing pads, which can be used, depending on the application, for removing dirt, for basic cleaning, for re-oiling parquet or for incorporateing the polish.

The dead weight of the polishing machine generates considerably more pressure on the polishing pad than would be possible with manual polishing, and this not only makes the polishing process easier and faster, but also ensures a more efficient result.

In principle A car polishing machine can also be used for polishing parquet. However, this is only recommended in the marginal areas, polishing the entire floor surface would be much too complicated.

In most DIY stores or specialist retailers there are polishing machines for parquet to rent or rent – the cost is around 20 to 30 euros per day plus deposit.

Of course, polishing machines are also available for purchase, although the acquisition costs are usually relatively high.

However, with regular use, the investment can still be worthwhile. Polishing machines for private use are usually not only suitable for refreshing parquet, but also for growing and polishing other floors.

Oiled parquet has many advantages, but also needs the right care.

Regularly re-oiling not only makes wear and tear disappear and the hardwood flooring shines in all its glory again, but the floor also receives care and protection. In this article you will learn how to oil your hardwood flooring best and which parquet oils are suitable for this purpose.

What is oiled parquet?

At the same time as the laying of parquet, the question of the optimum surface finish also arises.

This protects the parquet from dirt and moisture and preserves its characteristic appearance.

Parquet can either be lacquered lacquered or oiled or waxed, whereby the latter has become less and less common in recent years. Which surface finish is the best cannot be said in general terms – it depends on the individual demands on the floor. There are certain differences, especially with regard to appearance and care requirements.

Pros and cons of oiled parquet

While lacquered parquet is fully sealed by the lacquer, oiled parquet is “only” impregnated.

This means that the pores remain open and the wood can continue to breathe, which has a positive effect on the indoor climate. The oil gives the parquet its typical silky matte appearance and underlines the characteristic feel of the wood, which improves the naturalness of the floor.

On the other hand, however, oiled parquet has no additional protective layer. Accordingly, loads and daily stresses act directly on the surface of the floor, which is why wear and tear or damage can occur more quickly.

However, any repair work on oiled parquet can be carried out relatively easily – and also partially – on oiled parquet. Even in the case of major damage, it is often not necessary to sand down the entire floor – re-oiling the affected parquet is sufficient in most cases. Overall, the maintenance and cleaning requirement is nevertheless higher for oiled parquet compared to lacquered surfaces.

What oil is available for parquet?

For the treatment of oiled parquet there are various special parquet oils, which saturate the wood surface and provide protection against moisture and dirt.

When purchasing parquet oil care should be taken to ensure that it is as solvent-free a product as possible, as this is better for the parquet and the room climate as well as for the environment.

In principle, between curing and non-curing oils. Curing oils – also known as 2-component oils – contain synthetic resins that allow the oil to dry faster on the one hand and on the other hand, provide more resistance to the treated surface. Many of these parquet oils offer almost the same protection as a sealing of the soil.

Non-hardening oils or hard oils, on the other hand, usually consist of a mixture of different oils, e.g. linseed oil and walnut oil, and are regarded as particularly natural.

The pores of the wood remain completely open, whereby a parquet floor oiled with hard oil ensures a particularly good exchange of air in the room and also absorbs odours.

However, the surface of the parquet remains more sensitive to dirt and damage, which is why the floor should be additionally waxed afterwards.

Alternatively, hard wax oils can also be used, which are now increasingly produced without solvents on a purely natural basis.

The combination of certain oils and waxes forms a thin layer on the parquet, which closes the wood pores to a certain degree and accordingly in the basic features comes close to a sealing.

Thus, the air exchange between wood and indoor air is restricted, but parquet treated with hard wax oil is also easier to maintain.

The range of different parquet oils is very diverse. The differences between the individual products lie in their composition and their life span.

In contrast to lacquer, oil cannot change the gloss level of the parquet – oiled floors are always matt – but the wood can be stained with special coloured oils in a wide variety of nuances.

In general, the color of the parquet becomes a trace darker or richer due to the oiling.

However, parquet can be oiled also white with specially pigmented products, which makes the floor slightly lighter and makes it look as if it has been freshly sanded.

An impregnation of the parquet – and the associated protection against moisture and dirt – is achieved with coloured oils just as with conventional colourless parquet oils.

Many parquet manufacturers either offer their own coordinated parquet oils or make product recommendations for suitable oils. Therefore, before re-oiling parquet, the manufacturer’s instructions for the respective parquet should be observed.

Oils or waxes?

Rubbing wooden floors with beeswax to protect it from dirt and damage has previously been a proven method.

Pure waxed parquet has become increasingly important in recent years. However, the combination of oil and wax is still very popular with parquet in order to underline the naturalness of the parquet in the best possible way and to provide the wood with appropriate protection.

This is because the surface of purely oiled parquet remains relatively sensitive and receives additional protection through the wax .

Both warm and cold wax can be used after the parquet oil has completely dried. While cold wax can sometimes also be rubbed evenly into the wood by hand with a sponge, warm wax requires a special wax machine with which the wax is heated and applied to the parquet at a constant temperature. After the parquet has grown, the parquet must be polished – preferably with a polishing machine.

Parquet oiling: How it works

Regardless of which parquet oil the floor is treated with, should be done when oiling parquet according to the following instructions:

Reworking the parquet

Before the parquet can be re-oiled, it must be completely sanded down. This is usually necessary even with newly laid parquet, if only to remove possible residues of the parquet adhesive. It is important to proceed extremely evenly and carefully and to work your way from coarse to fine on the raw wood in several passes. Only in this way can the oil penetrate deep into the pores of the wood and achieve the desired result.

Since sanding down the parquet is quite demanding, this should only be carried out by experienced do-it-yourselfers on their own.

2. Thorough cleaning

Sanding the hardwood flooring produces a lot of fine dust. Since parquet oil binds it, all surfaces in the room must be thoroughly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, so that a completely dust-free environment is guaranteed.

3. Ensuring proper room conditions

The oiling of parquet requires certain room conditions. For example, the parquet should not be exposed to direct sunlight, so that it does not heat up too much. The room temperature should be between 18 and 25 degrees when the parquet oil is applied.

4. Filling joints

The dust produced by sanding the parquet is also ideal for repairing smaller, damaged joints when mixed with joint filler. For larger joints, however, the use of special joint sealing compound is recommended.

5. Apply parquet oil

Once the preparations have been completed, the actual oiling of the parquet can be started.

First stir the parquet oil thoroughly and then apply it evenly and systematically to the parquet. It is best to start in a corner and work towards the exit. Surfaces with more than 30 m2 should be oiled in sections so that the oil does not dry too quickly.

A scooter or a brush suitable for wooden floors can be used to distribute the oil.

It works even easier when a small amount of oil is carefully poured onto the parquet and smeared with a rubber scraper or a stainless steel smoothing. For corners and edges, it is recommended to use a brush.

As an alternative to applying the parquet oil by hand, polishing machines can also be used. The white/beige polishing pad is used to distribute and massage the oil on the parquet.

6. Allow oil to act

The thinly applied parquet oil then requires around 15 minutes to be able to move into the wood. If parquet is oiled with too much oil, you can stains are created. Therefore, it is important to ensure that there are no oil puddles on the parquet.

7. Remove oil residues

After the start-up time, the excess oil is removed with dry, lint-free cotton cloths.

The oil-soaked cloths should then be placed in a bucket of water, otherwise there is a risk of spontaneous combustion. Please take this very seriously. Whole houses have burned down just because a cloth soaked in oil ignited itself.

8. Let oil dry

If sufficient ventilation is provided, the surface is then Night completely dried. If the colour result is not yet intensive enough, the operation can be repeated again.

When is parquet accessible again after oiling?

Parquet flooring can be walked on again carefully around 24 hours after oiling, but furniture should only be set up after 48 hours and carpets should only be laid after one week.

If the parquet has been committed too early, footprints may remain in the surface.

If this occurs, the oil should be wiped away as soon as possible. If the oil has already dried, the place can be rubbed again with oil or sanded slightly.

Even with the mopping of the parquet should be waited at least one week. desk mats, or chair mats should only be re-applied after approx. 14 days.

Parquet re-oiling – how often?

Freshly sanded parquet should in principle be 2 times thoroughly treated with high-quality parquet oil. The time interval to the next After-oiling depends on the type of parquet oil used, the degree of stress and also according to the type of wood.

While oxidative curing oils have to be re-oiled after 1 to 2 years – and even earlier in the case of heavy loads – two-component oils offer longer protection due to the additional chemical reaction and usually only have to be re-oiled every 3 to 5 years.

In order to maintain the protection of the oiled parquet for as long as possible and to delay the need for grinding, especially unwaxed floors should be refreshed at regular intervals with special care oils.

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

  • strip parquet:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • ship bottom:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • mosaic parquet:
    8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • lamp parquet:
    6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • panel parquet:
    approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.

If parquet is arched or swollen, excessive moisture is often the reason.

While superficial water damage can be detected quickly and easily, the cause can also be hidden under the floor. In this article you will learn what causes excessive moisture under the parquet and how to proceed in case of water damage.

How does parquet react to moisture?

As a natural wooden floor, parquet always reacts to water.

What is of great advantage in terms of indoor climate and feel-good atmosphere on the one hand can lead to damage in the parquet floor on the other hand.

Too high humidity leads to an increased swelling behavior of the parquet – unsightly deformations are the result.

A different image is created depending on where the water comes from:

  • Moisture spreads from below, parquet forms convex – it swells up and the middle of the rods curves upwards or comes up.
  • If moisture enters from above, the deformations are concave – the so-called “bowl” occurs, the parquet deforms like a bowl, with the edges facing upwards.

Causes of water damage in the parquet

Water damage in the parquet can have many causes. While a fallen water bucket or a room flooded by an leaking washing machine is quickly discovered, there are a number of water damage that is not so obvious.

Thus, the damage is often not noticed until the parquet is swelled or curves. Then it is said to get to the bottom of the matter quickly in order to limit the damage as much as possible.

There are the following options:

Too moist screed

If it is a new building, the parquet may have been on a screed that was too damp.

In order for a newly erected screed to be suitable for laying parquet, it must be completely dry.

As a guideline, a drying time of approx. one week per cm of screed – a classic cement screed is therefore usually sufficiently dried after about 4 weeks. In order to be certain, a residual moisture determination must be carried out using the CM method before laying the hardwood flooring, which determines exactly whether the values are within the approved standard.

Defective water pipes or heating pipes

If there are water or heating pipes – for example from a underfloor heating system – under the hardwood flooring, the water damage may also have been caused by a leak in these pipes. In this case, moisture penetrates into the parquet from below, but this can go unnoticed for a while.

Too high humidity

Particularly with floating parquet laid , bulging can also be caused by excessive humidity. If, in addition, too little space has been left around the edges or at door thresholds to give the parquet the necessary room to swell and shrink, it will mainly come up at the joints.

Water damage in the parquet – what to do?

No matter what the cause is – in case of water damage in the parquet, the motto applies:

The quicker the damage is repaired, the smaller are the consequences and the more likely it is that the parquet can be repaired.

As soon as a water damage has been detected in the parquet, the therefore be acted upon as soon as possible. In this way, it is not only avoid irreparable damage, but it also prevents mold formation, which could sometimes spread to the entire floor construction.

Parquet has the great advantage that it can be easily repaired in most cases with slight to moderate water damage.

A real wood floor is completely destroyed only if the water is on the floor for a long time or the parquet elements in it “float”.

In contrast to other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet can therefore usually be easily renovated – even the repair of individual damaged areas is possible.

The cost of repairing or remediation measures depends accordingly on the extent of the water damage.

Eliminate superficial water damage in the parquet

Water damage to the surface of the parquet is best repaired by first wiping the water as quickly as possible.

Afterwards, the parquet must dry completely.

If the floor was only in contact with the water for a short time – for example, because a bucket was spilled – it is sufficient to provide the necessary draught in the room by aeration. The affected area can then be treated with a suitable care product.

In the case of larger or longer floods – e.g. due to leaking washing machines or floods – the residual moisture from the parquet and the air must be removed over a longer period of time by a dehumidifier.

It is important to keep windows and doors closed during the entire drying phase – with the exception of impulse ventilation – windows and doors.

Suitable equipment can be rented at DIY stores or specialist companies, the costs for this are usually covered by the insurance.

In addition, in the case of major surface damage, the water may also have penetrated into the joints of the parquet and thus spread moisture under the floor.

If this risk exists, a expert or expert should definitely be consulted, who will examine the water damage in detail and plan further measures if necessary.

Repair water damage below the parquet

If the source of the water damage is below the parquet, has probably already passed some time, which is the expense of the Damage is eliminated.

The most important thing is to eliminate the cause of water ingress. To do this, it is usually necessary to remove the parquet at the affected area. Later the parquet can be fixed again with parquet adhesive.

Once the damage has been repaired, the entire underbody – especially the screed – must first completely dry up before the hole can be closed again.

The use of a drying device is also recommended for this purpose.

In addition, any existing bulk material should be removed. Only when the soil has completely dried out and there are no signs of mold formation, the affected area can be filled with new bulk material and the hole can be closed with new parquet elements.

The old hardwood flooring will probably be too damaged by the effects of water to be reused. Colour differences in the decor can be compensated for by special oils or lacquers or a new parquet sealing.

Signs of mold infestation

If a musty, fashionable or earthy smell goes out after a water damage, this is usually an indication that mold has formed under the parquet.

The extent of the infestation and the possible spread to the dwelling can be investigated by means of an appropriate expert opinion.

If mould is actually found, the parquet must be completely removed and often also the screed underneath must be renovated.

A new screed may only be introduced if the residual moisture in the room is below 4 percent – after that, the corresponding drying time must be observed before a new parquet can be laid.

Since the highest care is required in the refurbishment of parquet after a water damage with mould infestation, the measures should be carried out by a specialist.

Whether parquet, carpet or laminate – excessive load is not good for the floor.

Especially at workplaces with desk and office chair, the floor is heavily stressed.

A floor protection mat as a chair mat prevents damage and protects the floor covering.

Office chair pads – the optimal floor protection

Desk chairs with castors can quickly leave marks on the floor – carpets are rubbed off, hard floors such as parquet or laminate are defaced by scratches or nicks.

Floor protection mats should therefore not be missing under any office chair, as parquet savers or carpet protectors offer effective protection against damage.

Office chair pads are available in a wide variety of designs, colours, sizes and materials.

Which floor saver is best suited depends on several criteria:

On which floor ingesenator is the floor protection used?

There is the right protective mat for every floor.

The offer includes floor protection mats for carpet as well as floor protection mats for hard flooring and parquet.

The surfaces all have a non-slip underside, the surface is often even coated with an antibacterial coating, so that dirt and bacteria have no chance.

Floor protection mats for carpet

As a chair pad for textile floor coverings, the special carpet floor protection mats are equipped with blunt anchor tops on the underside of the mat. These ensure a secure grip so that the protective mat cannot slip.

How long the anchors should be depends on the height of the carpet.

Thanks to the carpet saver, the carpet is neither flattened nor soiled by the rollers of the desk chair and the floor remains beautiful for longer.

Soil protection mats for hard flooring

Hard floors include flooring such as wood, parquet, laminate, tiles, stone, PVC, vinyl and cork.

In contrast to floor protection mats for carpets, floor protectors for hard floors do not have bumps, but have a special non-slip profile.

It is smooth and protects the floor without the underlay slipping.

Floor protection mats for parquet

Hard-floor office chair mats are also suitable as parquet savers.

Its smooth underside has proven to be parquet protection.

The protective mats not only prevent scratches or sanding marks, but also protect the parquet from stains and moisture in case something falls to the floor.

Which material is used as a chair pad for the respective application?

Soil protection mats can be made of different materials, all of which have certain properties and advantages.

Apart from the flooring, personal preferences and requirements for the office chair base are also decisive for the material decision.

PET (polyethylene terephthalate)

Pet floor savers are partly made from recycled bottles and are therefore environmentally friendly.

They also score points for their durability and are highly translucent. They have an effect footfall sound insulation and are also suitable for use on underfloor heating systems.

Polypropylene

Also suitable for underfloor heating and in addition odourless and skin-friendly are floor protection mats made of polypropylene.

They withstand high loads, are scratch-resistant and water-repellent.

Polycarbonate

Due to the properties of polycarbonate, desk chair pads made of this material have a very long service life.

They are not only extremely resilient and hard-wearing, but also resistant to weather, heat and radiation. Also plasticizers or solvents are not contained in these mats.

Natural rubber

Floor protection mats made of the renewable raw material natural rubber are water-repellent and very elastic. The material is also tear-resistant and has an antistatic effect.

What shape or colour should the floor protection mat have?

Due to different designs and colours, the office chair underlay can become quite an eye-catcher.

Those who attach importance to discreet floor protection are well advised with transparent chair documents.

They are barely visible and still offer the desired effect.

The form of the office chair pad depends primarily on the arrangement of the desk.

It is important that the shape of the floor protection mat covers the entire workplace as far as possible.

Lips on the mats provide additional protection against wetness and dirt on shoe soles.

How big should the underlay be?

Like the shape, the size of the desk chair underlay depends on the workstation.

In accordance with the workplace regulation, the freedom of movement must be at least 1.5 m2.

With regard to the dimensions of the floor protection mat, the larger the floor protection.

In addition to the standard sizes, many manufacturers also offer custom-made floor savers.

Attaching and cleaning floor protection mats

In order to protect the floor effectively and sustainably, care must be taken to properly attach the office chair pad.

For floor protection mats for carpets, the smooth side represents the surface, the toped side represents the underside.

In contrast, floor protection mats for hard floors or floor protection mats for parquet have the smooth side at the bottom and the rough side at the top.

The cleaning of floor savers is best done with pure water and subsequent re-drying with a soft cloth.

In the case of heavy contamination, household general-purpose cleaners can be added, sharp or corrosive agents as well as alcohol- and salmiak-holding cleaners should be dispensed with altogether.

When should parquet be sanded?

parquet is sanded down during renovation. There is no standard time period for this.

Under normal use, a interval of ten to fifteen years is sufficient. The decisive factor is wear and tear. Depending on how worn out the parquet looks, sanding can be necessary more or less frequently. Often it is also sufficient to repair individual scratches with a parquet repair set.

Most of the water stains and scratches can be reliably removed with it. However, one should bear in mind that wood is removed during each grinding process.

Depending on the parquet type and the respective thickness of the wear layer the parquet floor can be in use for decades. A stronger parquet made of a harder wood species is generally more robust, but can also be sanded more often.

After sanding, the parquet must be freshly sealed again – either with oil, wax or varnish.

Even after new parquet has been laid, it must be sanded down if it is untreated. This removes residues from the parquet adhesive, for example.

When should parquet be resealed?

A new seal is always due when the floor has been sanded down.

The first choice for sealing is a protective, transparent varnish layer. One should apply a primer before painting. This minimizes edge gluing caused by the subsequent application of varnish. It also allows the wood colour tone to be changed.

During renovation, holes, cracks and scratches can also be filled and repaired with wood putty.

The varnish for parquet sealing is available in various versions. You have the choice between glossy, silky gloss or silk matt.

Coloured lacquers are also possible, with which the colour of the parquet can be changed. After sealing with varnish, the floor must dry well before it can be walked on again.

Some parquet types are delivered without sealing. Then, of course, the sealing process is due after the laying. Apart from lacquer, oil or wax can be used. The floor then retains its particularly natural appearance, but is more sensitive to moisture.

Why do you have to prime hardwood flooring?

Parquet should be primed before applying the varnish for sealing.

The process is not absolutely necessary, but often makes sense. When the parquet is primed, it is possible to influence or change the colour of the wood.

In addition, the primer reduces the so-called “edge gluing” of the sealant to be applied afterwards. With a water-based primer, the surface will also become a little brighter.

However, you can also make the wood darker with an appropriate primer or emphasize the natural color more.

After a primer, which is applied with a brush or roller, the paint also holds better.

Why should parquet be primed as well? Special primers with special properties play an important role.

There are primers with ingredients that isolate old oil or wax residues. This is useful in the case of renovation. A special primer is used when processing parquet made of exotic woods. This prevents discoloration or other damage to the surface caused by certain substances that may be present in the wood.

Can I sand the parquet myself?

Even if it looks very simple in different videos, you should leave parquet sanding to the professionals. There are just too many things that can go wrong with it. In addition, handling the machines requires a lot of practice and experience. It is not without reason that the profession of hardwood flooring installer is an apprenticeship with a regular training period of 3 years.

parquet floors are fully in line with the trend in Germany.

This can be seen not least in the offers of the parquet manufacturers. The focus is increasingly on exclusive and individual types of parquet and flooring, which above all rely on the original character of the wood.

A natural surface finish and new interpretations of well-known classics – such as the traditional herringbone parquet – are the trends of the hour for the parquet types.

Overview of the most popular types of parquet

Prefabricated parquet floorboards

Landhaus floorboards are usually made of solid wood.

Alternatively, they are also available as multi-layer planks. Country house floorboards in the form of a 3-layer parquet are sold a lot and are an excellent alternative to “real” solid wood floorboards.

This type of parquet is cheaper. In addition, you save a lot of time thanks to the final treatment already carried out. In addition, the three-layer structure reduces the work of the wood. Only rarely do joints occur between the individual planks joints; and if they do, then only to a very small extent

Popular parquet types: Plank
Popular parquet types: Plank

Solid floorboards

This type of parquet is one of the oldest and most traditional types of wooden floor used in buildings.

Modern solid wood planks – for example made of oak, pine or larch – give a wooden floor a natural character.

As a rule, this type of parquet is laid raw and then sanded down before the surface is treated, for example, with floor oil, wax or parquet lacquer.

In the specialised trade, however, “finished” solid parquet is also available, which has an already applied surface treatment.

Types of parquet: Solid flooring
Types of parquet: Solid flooring

Ship floor planks

Floorboards of this type give your premises a robust look and conjure up a touch of nostalgia in your own home.

ship flooring planks spread a natural comfort and promote an attractive living ambience.

Typically, the ship’s floor boards are arranged irregularly and staggered, whereby three bars placed next to each other always characterize the ship’s floor structure.

Here you can choose between numerous types of wood – such as beech, oak, cherry, birch, ash or walnut.

Popular parquet types: Ship's floor
Popular parquet types: Ship’s floor

mosaic parquet, parallel connection

The name is virtually the program here.

The lamellas always run parallel to each other. This gives the whole room a uniform, symmetrical and calm atmosphere.

Regardless of the wood used, the parallel bracing appears very geometric and orderly.

The mosaic parquet itself consists of thin and small wooden lamellas, which usually have a thickness of eight millimetres and edge lengths of twelve to 16 centimetres. Thanks to its low construction height, the mosaic parquet is ideally suited for laying over a underfloor heating system, because there is hardly any obstruction to the heat transfer.

Popular parquet types: mosaic parquet, parallel bond
Popular parquet types: mosaic parquet, parallel bond

mosaic parquet, English association

This is a type of hardwood flooring where the individual wooden lamellas are laid in the so called English bond.

They lie parallel to each other, but are offset by half of the plank bar. Thus the mosaic parquet always appears calm and visually harmonious. In addition, the mosaic parquet sets rustic accents and spreads a pleasant atmosphere.

Parquet type: Mosaic parquet, English association
Parquet type: Mosaic parquet, English association

Industrial parquet

This type of parquet is also known as upright lamella parquet.

The individual solid wood slats are extremely hard and resistant. This extreme robustness then also ensures a long service life.

But the industrial hardwood flooring with its upright lamellas can also score points in terms of design and appearance.

Architects all over Germany use the special laying optics and lay industrial parquet in commercial and public buildings as well as in modern residential projects.

The lamellae have a width of eight millimetres and a thickness of ten to 22 millimetres.

Industrial parquet is a by-product from the production of mosaic parquet. The slats from the mosaic parquet production are simply arranged upright. This results in the similar product dimensions.

Popular parquet type: Industrial parquet (vertical lamellas)
Popular parquet type: Industrial parquet (vertical lamellas)

Classic herringbone parquet

With the fishbone hardwood flooring thus designated, comparatively thin strips are laid at an angle (90 degrees).

Due to the special arrangement a good stress distribution can be guaranteed. The individual parquet strips for this type of laying are available both solid and in three layers, and can even be ordered with a surrounding fibre.

The method of laying is strongly reminiscent of the fishbones of a fish. Visually, the effect of the light incidence is particularly attractive.

The wood shimmers – depending on the angle of incidence – in different brightness levels.

Popular parquet type: Herringbone parquet
Popular parquet type: Herringbone parquet

French herringbone parquet

The French herringbone parquet, like the classic version, offers a laying pattern with an optically interesting play of light.

However, there is a special feature of this type of parquet: the individual parquet strips are bevelled on both sides by 30°, 45° or 52.5° and then lined up next to each other.

A continuous head joint runs between the respective braid rows in this special herringbone parquet.

Popular parquet type: French herringbone
Popular parquet type: French herringbone

Lamp parquet

There are small, large and so-called maxi-lamp parquet elements. Due to the low installation height, the Lamparkett is often used for renovations.

The individual bars are always glued to the substrate with parquet adhesive.

With the Parquet tapis – these are particularly large lamp parquet elements – the individual elements are nailed as well as glued.

The admissibility of the respective wood for this type of parquet must comply with the standards of DIN EN 13227 (tables one to six).

For example, the wood used must not show any cracks and the ratio of bar width to bar thickness must not fall below certain limit values. This is to ensure the dimensional stability of lamp parquet.

strip parquet

This type of parquet is characterised above all by extreme stability and durability.

This is a solid hardwood flooring with classic dimensions. Strip parquet is generally regarded as a traditional classic among parquet types.

In addition, the strip parquet is extremely versatile and can be laid in a wide variety of patterns to suit almost any style of interior design.

The individual bars are preferably 10 to 22 millimetres thick and around 60 to 100 millimetres wide.

The rod length varies according to individual taste.

Popular parquet types: strip parquet
Popular parquet types: strip parquet

Parquet types: Rough differentiation between solid and multilayer parquet

Basically, parquet is available – roughly speaking – in two different types of parquet: as solid parquet or as multi-layer parquet.

The first variant is made from a continuous and solid piece of wood. This variant can then be further subdivided into special types of parquet, such as industrial parquet, mosaic parquet or strip parquet.

If you want to lay such a hardwood flooring , you must always glue it over its entire surface and only then sand it down afterwards.

Laying is therefore rather difficult for laymen. In this case, it is recommended to commission a specialist to lay the parquet.

Many types of parquet are directly available as finished parquet

If, on the other hand, you want to lay planks , which are designed as multi-layer parquet, this is comparatively easier.

This is because parquet types from this group have already been sanded in advance by the parquet manufacturer.

Also the surface of the individual elements is usually already treated.

This is why these types of parquet are also known as finished parquet. In terms of structure, two to three layers of wood are firmly glued together for the respective parquet types, with only the visible layer consisting of the higher quality hardwood.

Parquet types in multi-layer construction can be laid via click connections

The top layer often covers large areas, as is the case with parquet types such as country house floorboards or industrial parquet.

Alternatively, the top layer can also be composed of individual bars.

This can be observed, for example, especially with parquet types such as the ship floor parquet. All types of parquet with multi-layer construction can usually be laid quickly and easily with the appropriate click connections.

Solid wood parquet types are more resistant and durable

Types of parquet made of solid wood are generally much more robust and durable.

This is due to the much thicker layer of wood, which on the one hand is extremely resistant and resilient and on the other hand can be renovated much more often than parquet types with thinner multi-layer construction.

An example illustrates this. Multi-layer parquet types preferably have wear layers of about 2.5 millimetres thickness. Since a sanding process alone removes 0.5 millimetres of wood, the respective types of parquet can therefore only be processed two to three times with the sanding machine at most.

The prices often differ considerably

The parquet prices vary depending on the production method and quality.

Click- or finished parquet types are usually much cheaper than solid wood parquet types. If you want to buy solid parquet and have a rather small budget available, you should take a close look at the industrial parquet designated in this way. Compared to other types of solid wood parquet this is usually cheaper.

When fitting out the interior of an apartment or house, but also during renovation work, the question of the right floor covering always arises.

The decision is usually made between hardwood flooring and carpeting, especially when it comes to living room, bedroom and children’s room.

Both floor coverings have specific advantages, but the respective disadvantages must also be taken into account.

In addition, the choice of soil will be permanent for years to come. It is therefore important to choose a floor covering with which one is still satisfied even after a long time.

Basic questions as to whether parquet or carpet is the better choice

Personal taste is usually paramount. Other considerations also play a role:

  • What budget is available? parquet prices are often higher than the price of a carpet.
  • How durable is the flooring?
  • How easy to maintain is the floor, can it be thoroughly cleaned or even renovated if necessary?
  • Is it possible to lay parquet by yourself or do you need professional help?
  • Is parquet or carpet more practical?
  • Is the floor warm and comfortable, what is the footfall sound insulation?
  • What is the condition of the substrate, is there possibly a underfloor heating? Sometimes an old floor covering must be removed before you can lay planks.

The main advantages of parquet over carpet

Wood is a natural material that has a positive effect on the living climate. In addition, floorboards and parquet are available in countless variations. This allows you to create a room design as you wish.

A noble, exclusive and elegant floor covering is just as possible as a more rustic look. Depending on which type of wood you choose when buying parquet, the floor is very durable and robust.

The following advantages can be seen in detail if the choice between parquet or carpet is to be made:

The optical effect of parquet is usually more noble than that of a carpet.

There are indeed very high-quality carpets, but a parquet floor convinces already at first sight.

Depending on the type of wood or parquet type chosen and the surface treatment, parquet is suitable as a complement to classic or modern furnishings.

Parquet is flexible in design: such a floor fits the Scandinavian style as well as an ambience in a rural look.

Parquet has an extremely good influence on the room climate.

The material can absorb odours and neutralise them over time. A wooden floor feels moderately warm, but is naturally harder than a carpet.

The cleaning is simple and problem-free. Depending on the surface treatment, parquet can be cleaned with the brush attachment of the vacuum cleaner.

When cleaning the wet, care must be taken to ensure that the floor cloth is only fog-moist. Afterwards, however, the floor is spotlessly clean again.

In comparison between parquet or carpet, parquet performs better in terms of cleaning results. For allergy sufferers, a parquet floor covering good is suitable.

The maintenance effort is relatively low. Surface treatment plays a role here again: Oiled and waxed parquet needs good surface care every now and then.

In the case of a sealed or lacquered parquet , the lacquer only needs to be renewed when renovating.

If a fundamental renovation of the floor covering is necessary, this is much more successful with a parquet floor.

Parquet can be sanded down several times and resealed. Even if the appearance no longer appeals to you, the parquet can be coloured during renovation. In this way, the visual effect can be adapted to the furnishings as desired.

Both coverings should be protected with a floor protection mat in stressed areas, e.g. under desks.

The main advantages of carpet over parquet

An important criterion in the decision between parquet or carpet is the measures taken during installation.

A carpet floor has a lower installation height than a parquet floor. This means: When renovating or new laying with parquet adhesive, neither doors nor door frames need to be shortened. A thicker parquet floor, on the other hand, requires that doors and frames be adapted must.

The foot feeling is very pleasant with a carpeted floor. The floor covering feels comfortable and soft.

If you still prefer parquet, you can choose a good solution: The flooring consists of parquet, on top of which lies a decorative carpet.

Carpets also have a positive influence on the indoor climate. However, this is only the case if they are genuine natural fibres such as sisal or goat hair (Tredford) carpets, wool or coconut. Synthetic fibres at best cause unpleasant odours over the years, for example when house dust mites and the like settle in the carpet.

Cleaning a carpet is relatively easy. Dust, lint or animal hair can be easily removed with the vacuum cleaner.

The stain removal is more problematic, here it depends on the material. Deep cleaning is possible, but after a few passes the carpet will no longer have its original purity and colour intensity. The more often intensive cleaning is carried out, the faster the carpet becomes dirty.

When a renovation is due, carpet is easier to remove than parquet . For the removal of glued parquet, the use of heavy machinery is necessary.

A carpet that is only fixed with double tape can be removed very easily. A fully glued carpet can be cut into strips and torn off by hand. Adhesive residues can be sanded off with a single disc machine.