vinyl floors are easy to install – and almost as easy to remove again.

However, depending on the age, condition and installation technique of the floor, there are a few things to consider. Learn below how best to remove your vinyl floor and dispose of the residue properly.

What is important when removing vinyl floors

If a room is to be redesigned or renovated, this often includes the replacement of the floor covering.

Vinyl floors are relatively easy to remove yourself, as long as a few important aspects are taken into account.

Laying technique

How time-consuming the removal of a vinyl floor is depends primarily on how it is laid.

Floating or loose laid vinyl floors are easier to remove than glued .

And again, it makes a difference whether the vinyl is fully bonded or self-adhesive.

Age and condition of the soil

The age and condition of the floor also play a role, as the materials used and installation techniques have changed over the years.

While vinyl flooring adhesives used today are becoming more and more efficient and are therefore harder to separate from the substrate, older floor coverings are usually already more worn and brittle, which makes them more easily tear/break when removed.

Special care should be taken with vinyl floors (actually PVC floors) from the 70s and 80s: These may contain asbestos and should therefore only be removed with appropriate protective equipment.

Work preparation

Before starting the dismantling process, it is therefore essential to find out the date of origin of the vinyl floor and how it is attached to the subfloor.

Suitable work clothing as well as any necessary protective equipment (mouthguards, goggles, etc.) – and above all the right tools (cutter knife, spatula, etc.) should also be prepared in advance.

Remove floating vinyl floor

Floating vinyl flooring is very easy to remove as it is not fixed to the subfloor.

In the first – and at the same time most complex – work step the (glued, nailed or screwed) skirting boards are dismantled. Afterwards, the removal of the floor can be started.

Relatively little effort is required for vinyl planks with click system. These can easily be removed row by row and – with the appropriate care – even reused if necessary.

If necessary, the footfall sound insulation and the vinyl floor underlay is removed in a final step, provided that this is no longer required for the new floor covering.

Remove glued vinyl floor

It is a little more complicated when removing glued vinyl flooring.

Although this can also be removed with relatively little effort, adhesive residues usually stick to the substrate and must be removed additionally.

Subdivide floor into individual pieces

If it is vinyl flooring (actually PVC flooring), the floor should be cut into even, narrow strips with a sharp knife or cutter.

If the vinyl consists of individual planks, it can be removed again without prior subdivision.

The individual elements can be grasped more easily with a lever tool or spatula and lifted or detached with less effort.

Ideally, you should start to remove the flooring at the corners by pushing a spatula under the flooring and removing the floor.

It is quite possible that the vinyl will crack again and again and the putty must be reapplied.

Stubborn adhesions can be loosened more easily by heating them with a hair dryer, but electrical spatulas or machine carpet strippers also make the work much easier (ask at the hardware store / rental park).

In addition, special multi-milling machines can also be hired from DIY stores. These are particularly suitable for particularly old coverings and substrates that have been filled several times, as they not only completely remove the vinyl floor including the adhesive layer, but also work their way up to the firm base layer of the subfloor.

Remove vinyl floor from tiles

Often there is already a floor covering underneath the vinyl surface, which is to be uncovered again in the course of renovation.

If, for example, you want to remove a vinyl floor from tiles, a particularly careful procedure is required to avoid damaging them.

Remove adhesive layer

Once the vinyl floor has been completely removed, in most cases an adhesive layer remains.

If a new flooring is laid on top of it, it is sufficient to roughly remove the adhesive residues and then grind it down with a single-disc machine.

If a new bought vinyl flooring is then to be laid, the usual procedure for the preparation of the subfloor is necessary.

However, if the vinyl has been removed to reveal the underlying flooring, the adhesive must be thoroughly removed.

It works best with an electric spatula and a hot-air dryer, which is used to warm up the adhesive residues.

Alternatively, the adhesive can also be moistened and scrubbed with methylated spirit or a turpentine substitute solution.

Dispose of vinyl flooring

Once the vinyl floor has been successfully removed, the remaining residues raise one last crucial question: Where to dispose of?

As vinyl floors are made of artificially produced PVC, they must not be thrown into normal household waste, but disposed of properly.

This is especially true if the material in question is old and contains asbestos.

Vinyl waste can either be delivered directly to material yards or taken away from bulky waste collection.

In both cases, it is advisable to contact the responsible disposal company in good time to find out any restrictions that may apply (size or quantity of vinyl residues) and to arrange a date for delivery or collection.

In addition, the respective waste recycler will provide information on the costs of disposing of the vinyl flooring.

Slicone sealants for sealing joints in vinyl floors

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Joints in vinyl flooring are not only unattractive to look at, but sometimes also carry the risk of permanent damage. In the following, you will learn what you should therefore already consider when laying vinyl flooring and what you can do if joints in the vinyl floor open up.

What causes joints in the vinyl floor to fall apart

Like many floor coverings, a vinyl floor reacts to different room conditions.

The material works – joints are created or dissolved.

In most cases the reasons for joints in the vinyl floor are either heat or moisture.


While parquet and laminate floors are primarily sensitive to moisture, vinyl floors primarily react to heat.

The material expands strongly when the heat is affected and reassembles when the temperature drops. The result is diverging joints.

Especially often joints are created in the vinyl floor in rooms with large windows or direct light. The sun’s irradiation leads to a sharp increase in the temperature on the surface – and consequently to the expansion of the vinyl floor.

With darker soils this effect is even more obvious than with brighter soils, as these reflect sunlight better.

But even with underfloor heating systems, the vinyl floor expands more, which is why it is essential to ensure that the surface is not heated too quickly or too highly.


Incoming moisture and subsequent drying also cause joints to rise in the vinyl floor.

Especially in rooms with high humidity or direct contact with water (e.g. B. with vinyl flooring in the bathroom) this can cause permanent damage or mould growth.

Which avoids joints in the vinyl floor

Due to its material properties, the vinyl floor needs sufficient leeway to work.

Therefore, it is important to insert a expansion joint at the time of installation. This applies wherever the vinyl floor meets immovable components (e.g. walls, pipes, columns, built-in furniture) or other floor coverings.

This expansion joint serves to compensate for the elongation and pulling of the material and to allow joints to diverge only where it is intended.

The rule of thumb for the edge distance is at least 5 mm or, in large rooms, 1 mm per metre of length.

Vinyl floor gets joints – what to do?

There are several ways to close joints in the vinyl floor. Various products are available from specialist retailers to fill, glue or seal joints.

Elastic materials – e.g. silicone – are best suited to fill joints in the vinyl floor. They remain permanently flexible, which allows the soil to expand accordingly and contract again.

Corresponding joint fillers are available in numerous different colours and compositions. Therefore, they are versatile and are ideal for closing joints in the edge area.

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It can also be used to seal transitions to connection joints in doors, skirting boards or stairs.

Sealing joints waterproof is particularly important for vinyl floors in wet rooms to prevent moisture from entering.

Massively laid vinyl can be easily sealed with silicone, e.g. in the edges and connections to tiles, but this is not recommended for floating floors.

Whether or not impact sound insulation is necessary for Click vinyl flooring depends on various factors, but in general this question can be answered with a clear “yes”.

Finally, the vinyl floor underlay should provide the necessary peace, warmth and stability.

But what about the insulation with vinyl on underfloor heating? How are the documents suitably laid? And are there any alternatives to the classic vinyl floor underlay?

Why use a vinyl floor for footfall sound insulation?

Vinyl floors can be laid floating or laid with the subfloor using adhesive.

In the case of a floating installation, an underlay for the vinyl floor is also absolutely essential.

Anyone who does without suitable insulation here risks so-called walking noise, an unpleasant “clacking” when walking.

The underlays also insulate the floor from the substrate. Just as they can even out (slight) unevenness in subfloors without having to carry out more complex levelling work beforehand.

Further functions at a glance

Not only are the neighbours underneath you grateful for an improvement in footfall sound, but the room acoustics in your own rooms can also be improved.

The quieter the floor is when walking on it, the more pleasant the acoustics of the room.

Find the right underlay for vinyl flooring

Impact sound insulation for vinyl flooring is therefore indispensable. Lay the vinyl floor without underlay? Not such a good idea.

The laying of an underlay for the vinyl floor is essential for a comfortable walking experience and the prevention of clicking noises.

The different types of vinyl floor underlays

Relatively common are insulations made of PU low expansion foam. They consist of mineral fillers and polyurethane.

The comparatively heavy rolls are best suited as a vinyl floor underlay for underfloor heating, as they have a relatively low thermal resistance.

Due to their heaviness there is also a significant improvement in the sound values.

The polystyrene sheets, a kind of polystyrene, are inexpensive to buy.

They are easy to install, but reduce sound only moderately well. Furthermore, they are rather not suitable for underfloor heating.

Latex insulating underlays also have poor heat conduction. Anyone who does not have underfloor heating but still wants heat-insulating properties could take a look at the material cork.

When can a vinyl floor also be installed without impact sound insulation?

If a vinyl floor is to be installed floating, it is imperative that an insulation mat is placed between prepared subfloor and the vinyl floor.

If, on the other hand, the floor is made of solid vinyl and is to be glued to the subfloor, no additional footfall sound insulation is required as an underlay. Because in this case, the impact sound insulation under the screed already ensures sufficient absorption of walking and impact sound.

Since the vinyl floor is bonded to the screed with adhesive, nothing can rattle and therefore no insulation is necessary.

Old carpets as a substitute for footfall sound?

A carpet already laid as a vinyl floor underlay is not a good idea and is not approved as suitable by any vinyl floor manufacturer.

Carpets are too soft – regardless of their thickness. This usually leads to excessive yielding of the floor when it is laid and walked on. As a result, the click connections wear out over time and the floor starts to “move”.

Almost worse: Those who lay vinyl flooring on carpet usually forfeit the warranty on the floor. This is an area where savings should not be made under any circumstances!

In addition, a carpet is always susceptible to bacteria and germs if it no longer comes into direct contact with the air in the room.

Therefore, unpleasant odours often occur when the old carpet is used as footfall sound insulation for the vinyl floor.

What footfall sound insulation for a vinyl floor on underfloor heating?

Owners of underfloor heating should pay attention to the special properties of the insulation mat used.

The most important factors are heat resistance and an appropriate thermal resistance.

Especially with older underfloor heating systems, the material must be able to bear the heat, as these usually become much warmer than modern systems.

Another important property is durability and resistance to moisture.

Tip for the purchase: The thermal resistance according to DIN 12667 in the unit m2 K/W is usually stated on the product. The lower this value, the better the heat transfer.

Does it need an additional vinyl floor foil?

Whether at all and especially which insulation underlay is required depends on the substrate. Anyone who wants to lay vinyl flooring on a floating screed needs a so-called vapour barrier.

This is available in the form of a PE film and protects the floor from rising damp from the subsoil or damp rooms below.

Ultimately, the moisture could lead to considerable damage to the material.

Laying vinyl flooring Impact sound insulation

A Klick vinyl floor underlay is relatively easy to install. Especially if the floor does not have any major unevenness.

If this is the case, however, unevenness must first be levelled with a cementitious levelling compound. Otherwise, preparation includes cleaning with a broom and a vacuum cleaner.

The impact sound insulation is then rolled out in strips. It is important to start at the longitudinal wall and always work parallel.

The individual webs must not overlap, as this can later lead to unevenness in the floor. In this context, one speaks of a “butt-to- butt transfer”.

To make it easier to lay the insulation mats, the sheets can be fixed to the floor at certain points. Now all further courses follow. At the longitudinal joints, the sheets can be easily joined with adhesive tape. Then continue with the laid vinyl flooring using the vinyl cutter.

The range of vinyl bases is diverse – they are available not only in countless colours and designs, but also in various thicknesses.

It is not so easy to keep an overview and to make the right choice, especially not.

The following summary of commercially available vinyl flooring thicknesses and their areas of application should help you to make a decision.

What does the vinyl floor thickness depend on?

With regard to the thickness of vinyl floors, two factors must be taken into account: the substrate and the wear layer.

Thickness of the carrier material

As regards the carrier material, a basic distinction is made between vinyl on HDF carrier boards and solid or solid vinyl.

Vinyl on HDF has a structure similar to laminate and is equipped with a click system.

Such a vinyl floor can only be laid floating and has a thickness of approx. 10 mm.

In contrast, solid or full vinyl only between 2 and 5 mm thick, is available with and without click system and is suitable for both floating and glued installation.

The thickness of the base material has an effect on the construction height of the floor, which is particularly important when renovating existing buildings.

If the vinyl floor is laid on an existing floor covering, such as on tiles, thinner variants are particularly suitable.

However, even if the old vinyl floor is removed, the overall height of the existing floor must be taken into account in order to avoid difficulties in tricky places (e.g. door sills). If in doubt, the door must otherwise be shortened.

Thickness of the wear layer

What is commonly understood by the thickness of the vinyl floor refers mainly to the top layer.

This surface, which is usually made of polyurethane, not only determines the appearance of the floor due to the incorporated decoration, but also protects the vinyl primarily against external influences such as wear, damage, moisture, e.g. with vinyl flooring in the bathroom or dirt.

The fact that the vinyl flooring is basically all the more hard-wearing and durable, the stronger this protective wear layer is, seems hardly surprising.

But which strengths are suitable in practice for which areas of application?

Vinyl flooring in practice: Which thickness for which room?

The thickness of the wear layer has a decisive influence on the resistance and robustness of the soil.

Commercially available vinyl floors are available in four different designs:

  • 0.2 mm
  • 0.3 mm
  • 0.55 mm
  • 0.7 mm.

When selecting a suitable floor, the daily stress and strain of the respective room plays a decisive role.

In living areas with low levels of wear and tear, such as bedrooms or offices, floor coverings with a 0.2 mm or 0.3 mm wear layer are completely sufficient.

If the floor is exposed to higher loads, as is the case in corridors, kitchens, living rooms and children’s rooms, but especially also in damp rooms such as bathrooms, the use of vinyl floors with 0.55 mm wear layer is recommended.

These are not only easier to clean, but are also more durable and more resistant to moisture.

Vinyl floors with a wear layer of 0.7 mm are ideal for the contract sector in particular.

Whether office, doctor’s surgery, salesroom or warehouse – floorings with a very high wear layer withstand even heavy loads and street dirt, brisk customer traffic or punctual loads from heavy shelves or desk chairs do not leave marks so quickly. Nevertheless, you should use a office chair underlay.

The most important thing for successful vinyl floor laying, is the substrate preparation. In the following we will discuss the most important points – resinifying cracks, applying the correct primer and levelling the substrate.

Vinyl flooring Substrate: resinify cracks in the screed

Cracks in the subfloor of our vinyl floor (screed) are completely normal. These often occur with freshly laid screeds as a side effect of drying.

However, cracks in the screed also occur during the renovation of old buildings – e.g. after the removal of an old carpet – cracks in the screed. However, a finished substrate for vinyl floors must not have any more cracks.Cracks in the vinyl floor Substrate must be sealed with a special resin before laying a vinyl floor – otherwise the two separate parts of the screed will move and the filler applied later will flake off. Not a good base for a vinyl floor. In order to close the cracks in the substrate, they must be cut open with a cutting tool (e.g. Flex) and then sealed with a so-called “casting resin”.

Attention: It is essential to determine beforehand whether the screed is a heated screed. If so, under no circumstances should the Flex be unpacked. This should only be done by an absolute expert who has consulted a specialist for heated screeds beforehand. Otherwise the screed will be flooded faster than we would like.

Vinyl floor substrate: Resinize cracks – checklist:

  • An angle grinder angle grinder/cutter (so-called “flex”) with concrete cutting disc (alternatively a concrete milling machine)
  • A very good extraction for the angle grinder
  • shaft connector (or steel nails à 100 mm)
  • A casting resin for screed renovation
  • Some quartz sand
  • A steady hand

So far, so good – away with the cracks in the ground

In order to close the cracks once and for all (and to finally be able to use the base for our vinyl floor), we first have to unpack the good old flex.

Now we mill along the complete crack once with the flex and a concrete cutting disc. A Flex with extraction is recommended, because otherwise the whole room will be too dusty from top to bottom.

Create cross connections in the underground

Then we mill cross to the crack in the subfloor, approx. every 50 cm a small separating cut into the screed (length approx. 15 cm). The whole thing should look something like a badly sewn scar 🙂

Now we cleanly suck out the complete, separated crack including the cross cuts.

We then place so-called shaft connectors (usually made of sheet metal) or alternatively one steel nail of 10 cm each in each of the cross cuts of the substrate.

The sense: The synthetic resin alone is not sufficient to join the two halves of the screed. Metal must be brought in for reinforcement. The synthetic resin is later only intended for fixing and as a filling material for the crack in the vinyl floor substrate.

Mix the synthetic resin for the vinyl floor substrate.

In any case, it is recommended to use a special casting resin for screeds. Polyester putty is rarely used for this purpose. However, this is not liquid enough to completely fill the crack in the substrate. It is therefore not advisable.

The casting resin is usually a so-called 2-component casting resin. It is therefore mixed from 2 components, which then carry out a chemical reaction. You usually have about 20 minutes time to process the brew – after that it becomes tough and then hard.

Attention: Mixed casting resin becomes very hot during curing. The surplus in the can/bottle must therefore be stored outdoors – away from flammable objects.

Now we pour the casting resin into the previously sucked out crack and into all cross cuts.

There, almost done. Now quickly scatter quartz sand over the freshly resinified crack. Otherwise the filler will not hold later, because the casting resin is eel-smooth after hardening.

Priming vinyl floor substrate

Before we can lay the vinyl floor on the subfloor, the vinyl floor must be levelled out subfloor. And before we can do this, the substrate must be primed. As a rule, two scenarios are possible:

  1. We have an absorbent substrate (e.g. screed) for our vinyl floor
  2. We do not have an absorbent substrate (e.g. tiles) for our vinyl floor

Correct reading. Tiles can be leveled over (and can thus serve as a base also as a substrate for vinyl floors) – if the correct primer is used.

We mix the primer and apply it with a foam roller over the entire surface of the substrate. Done.

Priming vinyl floor substrate

Levelling vinyl floor substrate

Now the substrate must be completely leveled or leveled. This means: remove any unevenness from the substrate so that it does not matter.

For this purpose, a cementitious levelling compound is mixed. This should then be applied to the substrate later with a strength of approx. 3-5 mm.

We need to prepare the substrate for the vinyl floor:

  • A good stirrer (If necessary, a powerful drill with stirring attachment)
  • putty, bag by bag
  • Water in large buckets (calculate the water requirement beforehand!)
  • A (toothed) squeegee for spreading the filler
  • One spiked roller for deaerating the filler

It is best to use two people to fill the substrate. Otherwise you will start to sweat a lot, because you are constantly busy fetching water, but at the same time you should actually stir again, so that the putty does not dry up.

In addition, the power of the drilling machine must not be overestimated . Many a drill has given up the ghost when mixing putty.

If in doubt, better use an agitator.

Filling of vinyl floor surface

The most important thing:

  • The levelling compound must be stirred properly – otherwise granules will form on the surface
  • The levelling compound must be evenly distributed
  • avoid “piles”
  • “wet in wet” work. Under no circumstances should the filler material dry on the edges.
  • The amount of water must be kept to 100% – simply read/comply with the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging

Prepare the vinyl floor substrate: Smoothly sand down the levelling compound

When the entire surface has been filled and then allowed to dry through, it must still be sanded clean.

To do this, we take a single-disc machine (with suction) and place a coarse grinding disc underneath (grain 24 or 36). Now we drive the complete screed with it and remove last unevenness as well as granules etc.

A good single disc machine costs well over 1000,- Euro. It is therefore advisable to borrow them from the local DIY market. As a washer you need a grinding wheel with very coarse grit – K24 or K36. This can also be purchased from the rental service.

Afterwards everything still has to be sucked off. The substrate for our vinyl floor is finished.

Continue with the laid vinyl flooring using the vinyl cutter.

The most important question first:
Floating vinyl flooring or better to glue?

On the basis of our relevant experience, we advise against a floating installation of vinyl flooring in almost all cases.

A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations
A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations 😀

Many manufacturers of vinyl floors write in their installation guidelines that the floor must not be installed under windows with strong light incidence or rooms with high temperatures.

What has this fact to do with the question “floating or glued installation“?

Most (click) vinyl floors for floating installation are made of solid vinyl, which can deform even at summer temperatures. Under windows with a lot of light, this happens particularly quickly.

This manifests itself in the formation of “hills” (convex deformation) and can push the ground upwards in the middle of the room.

This can cause doors to no longer open (!) or the floor to become irreversibly deformed. In our experience, therefore, in almost all cases floating installation is to be avoided.

If one also considers the Prices for vinyl floors, incl. Laying coststhe floating installation offers no price advantage compared to the much higher quality and more durable glued version.

Laying vinyl floor floating: advantages

  • fast installation
  • also feasible for laymen
  • very cheap for self-publishers

Floating installation of vinyl flooring: disadvantages

  • High susceptibility to heat
  • Danger of jointing
  • Danger of setting up the individual elements
  • No price advantage over a (much higher-quality) bonded installation by a service provider

The glue vinyl flooring is not the easiest, but the best way to obtain a stable and durable floor covering. However, the preparatory work must be carried out very precisely so that the vinyl flooring can be perfectly glued to the substrate.

The following methods are available:

  1. a full-surface bonding by means of adhesive and tooth filler
  2. gluing with a self-adhesive covering

You can find out right away how vinyl flooring works and what the differences are between the two methods.

Floating vinyl floor piles up
Another floating vinyl floor that would have been better glued 🙂

Prerequisites for successful bonding

Certain conditions must be met in order to glue a vinyl floor in such a way that it lies evenly on the floor without leaving any marks. This includes a clean, cementitiously filled and smoothly sanded substrate. You can find out how to prepare the substrate perfectly here.

If the subfloor is not perfectly levelled and sanded, the vinyl floor may, in the worst case, have dents or waves after gluing.

Then all the effort was in vain… 🙁

The different types of bonding

1. Full-surface bonding

For full-surface bonding, is applied to the well-prepared substrate with a toothed trowel dispersion adhesive (a wet adhesive), on which the 2 to 4 millimetre thick vinyl planks are then laid.

With the so-called “full-surface gluing“, work is always carried out in paths that correspond to a multiple of the width of a plank. What exactly is meant by this, you can see in the following video.

For this purpose, the wet adhesive is applied to the substrate over a large area over the entire width with precision using a notched trowel and, after allowing the adhesive to flash off briefly, placed in the adhesive bed. When gluing full-surface vinyl flooring, work must be carried out quickly, as the wet adhesive no longer adheres properly after 30 to 40 minutes.

How much adhesive apply?

In addition, neither too much nor too little adhesive should be applied to the substrate to achieve optimum adhesion. If you glue a vinyl floor, you do this with a so-called toothed spatula. These are available in different versions. Depending on the size of the “teeth”, different amounts of adhesive are applied. You can find out exactly which tooth size you need from the manufacturer/dealer of your vinyl floor.

The advantages of a glued vinyl floor

Glued vinyl flooring offers numerous advantages, namely this:

  • Solid vinyl is firmly bonded to the substrate, making the floor covering very stable and resistant. This is also the reason why it is used in the shop building as well as in the fair– and event area, among others.
  • Even in the case of underfloor heating, the adhesive vinyl flooring is the best solution, as the low installation height and the firm connection of the floor covering to the substrate enable a direct heat transfer.
  • A glued vinyl floor satisfies the highest demands and offers good room acoustics.

If you want to have a vinyl floor glued as a tenant, you should first obtain the permission of the landlord in order to be legally on the safe side.

2. Vinyl floor with self-adhesive underside

When bonded with a self-adhesive coating, the back of a module or plank is already prepared with adhesive, which is protected by a film. This is simply removed when the vinyl floor is glued, and the vinyl plank is applied to the previously primed underbody.

This technique, which is used for the vinyl floor ingeste, is popular with do-it-yourselfers, as it requires no skill with adhesive and tooth spatula. Nevertheless, extreme precision is required, o.g. when creating the first rows.

In order to lay a self-adhesive vinyl floor in a first-class manner , not only manual skill is required. It also takes a lot of time. Trained craftsmen can do the work very quickly. You will find one of our craftsman’s workshops also in your vicinity.

Laying of self-adhesive vinyl flooring

Before the vinyl floor can be glued to the already prepared substrate, it should acclimatize around 24 hours before bonding in the publishing room, so that it can adapt to the indoor climate.

Determining the direction of installation

Since the door is the main line of sight into the room, the laying process starts from here. The first step is the most important one, as it determines that the first row and the rows following it are laid exactly.

To create a straight line, a chalk line can be used:

Alternatively, a floor laser can also be used:

On the back of the plank there is (usually) an arrow indicating the installation direction.

This direction must be adhered to for all planks. The back slide is pulled off a bit and the first plank is placed exactly at the guide.

Then the rest of the film is removed and the plank is pressed to the floor.

Planks that need to be resized are scored with a sharp knife scored and then bent off. The second row of planks is then arranged at least one third offset from the first row.

For solid vinyl, usually no vinyl cutter or similar tool is necessary.

The holes required for the heating pipes are ideally made with a Forstner drill bit (for floating laid vinyl)

With glued solid vinyl, it is possible to square the holes with a cutter, or carpet knife, and break out. At the end, the skirting boards are screwed to the wall.

This is what we need to glue to the vinyl floor:

  • An adhesive spatula
  • Adhesive
  • A sharp cutter knife or a floor laying knife with trapezoidal blade
  • A bevel/angle or metal ruler
  • A line strike/chalk line or alternatively a line laser

Measuring the room before sticking

Before laying the vinyl floor, we have to think carefully about where we want to place our first 3-5 rows.

Typically, this is e.g. an exterior wall, which covers the entire length/width of the room.

We should also measure whether our wall of choice is at least reasonably parallel to the opposite wall. If this is not the case, the end result may be that you need to make diagonal cuts that do not look very nice.

In case of doubt, it is better to measure and average a little more.

Cut vinyl floor properly for installation

Vinyl floors can be cut with e.g. a large pair of scissors or a carpet knife. Professionals only scratch the surface with a sharp knife and break off the vinyl plank. This is the fastest way to install vinyl flooring.

Do not apply too much glue

The adhesive has a limited time in which it receives its adhesive strength.

If you wait too long, the adhesive must be laboriously scraped off the floor. It is therefore recommended to mark exactly beforehand how far the adhesive should be applied.


We want to relocate 5 rows at the same time. Let’s assume a plank has a width of exactly 17 cm. So we draw a marker that is 17 cm x 5 wide (85 cm).

So we apply the adhesive to a track of exactly 85 cm width.

We then lay our first 5 rows of the vinyl floor on the adhesive bed. Then we draw the next 85 cm and so on.

Bonus Tip #1:

After each track that was laid, the flooring should be pressed again.

For this purpose there are, for example, special metal rollers, which are also used for laying carpets. Such rollers can usually be rented from any hardware store.

Alternatively, a board can be wrapped with a towel, with which you can then rub the freshly laid vinyl floor “along“.

Bonus Tip #2:

Even professionals it happens during installation that some adhesive gets onto the vinyl floor.

However, instead of washing it off immediately, it is better to wait until the adhesive has dried.

When washed off, the adhesive only spreads more and is difficult to remove from the joints later. If, on the other hand, it is left to dry, it can usually be removed easily after the vinyl floor has been laid .

Bonus Tip #3

If you need to interrupt the vinyl floor laying for several hours or days, remove excess adhesive from the substrate.

To do this, it is best to take a wooden board with a straight edge and press the excess adhesive flattened on the floor.

This is particularly important in the area of the edges of the vinyl that has already been laid. Otherwise, the glue must be scraped off with a scraper the next day.

A vinyl floor in the kitchen must meet the high requirements of a floor covering in a busy room. Why vinyl flooring is becoming increasingly popular in the kitchen is due to its special properties.

You can find out here which properties bruno wpml characterise a vinyl flooring, what requirements it must meet, especially in the kitchen, and why it meets these requirements.

For all those who are in a hurry, here are the advantages of having a vinyl floor in the kitchen

The advantages of vinyl flooring in the kitchen

Vinyl flooring in the kitchen is characterized by numerous advantages over other floor coverings:

  • Robust and hard-wearing
    The vinyl floor in the kitchen made of solid vinyl is very much more abrasion resistant than most other floors
  • Low noise
    A vinyl floor is particularly quiet and also warm to the feet. This makes working in the kitchen particularly pleasant
  • Moisture resistant
    A vinyl floor in the kitchen is resistant to water and also to other liquids used in a kitchen, which also applies to vapour formation, which cannot harm solid vinyl. If particularly high levels of moisture are to be expected – as in the bathroom – a sealing primer of PU (polyurethane) or epoxy resin can be applied before laying. This additionally prevents moisture from penetrating the substrate.
    Critical areas, for example door connections, are grouted with silicone for water resistance .
  • Easy to clean
    Thanks to the smooth surface vinyl floors are particularly easy to maintain. Drops can be quickly removed from the kitchen floor with a wipe. The vinyl floor is also quickly vacuumed and wiped. It is also possible to use a steam broom on vinyl without deforming your kitchen floor.
  • Flat construction
    Vinyl flooring for use in the kitchen is available in thicknesses from 5 millimetres upwards. It is therefore particularly suitable for renovation work and as a problem solver if there is little space for an additional structure so that doors do not have to be shortened.
  • Interchangeable
    If a floor is damaged or unsightly at one point, individual vinyl planks can be removed from above and replaced. This applies in particular to a vinyl floor in the kitchen made of solid vinyl which has been glued. This is not possible with click vinyl!
  • Harmless to health
    The German Institut für Bautechnik (DIBt), authorities and various testing institutes set very strict limits for vinyl floors in terms of pollutants and emissions. Their compliance is carefully monitored so that consumers have the desired product safety.
  • Design variety
    A vinyl floor for the kitchen is available as an artificial floor covering in all conceivable designs, colours and formats.
  • Installation types for every situation
    There is no floor covering that offers more variations in terms of installation than vinyl floor
Vinyl flooring in the kitchen
Vinyl floor laid in maple look in the kitchen

Vinyl floor in portrait: durable, abrasion-resistant and harmless to health

Today, vinyl flooring is a modern PVC flooring in an unprecedented variety. Different laying techniques and numerous decors make it a high-quality design floor that is excellent suitable for the kitchen.

Vinyl floors are characterized by a high durability and a very low wear and tear.

Solid vinyl in particular is water-resistant and is therefore also suitable for installation in wet rooms. It can even be cleaned wet or with a steam broom. Vinyl is polyvinyl chloride, which obtains its typical properties through various additives such as fillers, stabilizers :

  • Elastic
  • Durable
  • Abrasion

Phthalates were previously used as plasticizers, which was considered to be a concern and also posed a problem in terms of disposal. However, this has changed in the meantime.

Well-known vinyl floor manufacturers in Europe process harmless substances and refrain from using phthalates. This is also due to the strict requirements for floor coverings produced and certified in the EU. Today’s vinyl floors have also shed their dusty image from years past and are available in modern designs.

Requirements for flooring in a kitchen

A kitchen floor is exposed to a wide range of loads and must therefore meet high requirements.

When washing up quickly, doing the dishes and cooking, not only water drips onto the floor, but also other liquids such as red wine, cola, beer or fat splashes.

It is not always wiped off immediately, so that some things are trodden on the floor. It is therefore important that the floor covering in the kitchen is non-slip to prevent accidents. The same applies to cutlery and especially to edged objects such as knives, which may accidentally fall onto the kitchen floor and damage it.

The hygiene also plays a major role in the kitchen. Greasy liquids, scattered crumbs, pieces of vegetables and fruit that may fall onto the kitchen floor during processing must not be allowed to settle in grooves and cracks. The floor covering in a kitchen should therefore be easy to clean and dirt-repellent, so that things that have fallen down can be swept or wiped away quickly and easily.

The right floor covering for the kitchen must accordingly be waterproof, robust, dirt-repellent, non-slip and heat-resistant.

Vinyl floors for kitchens fulfil these properties, because they are practically indestructible, easy to clean, waterproof and, on top of that, comparatively priced. They are also warmer than a tiled floor, for example, and offer excellent footfall sound properties. Vinyl floors for the kitchen are available in various decors and shapes, as yard ware as well as in floorboard and tile form.

Vinyl flooring in the kitchen
Quickly something goes wrong in the kitchen next to it. Vinyl floors have to withstand this.

The right vinyl floor for the kitchen – robust, water-repellent and design-heavy

Vinyl floors are characterized by a particularly low height and are practical when it comes to the renovation of the kitchen floor.

In any case, we recommend full vinyl with a thickness of 3 to 5 millimeters, which is commonly referred to as “PVC strips”.

Vollvinyl has excellent resistance to moisture, so it is not possible to swell the floor, because full vinyl for the kitchen is 100 percent water-repellent plastic.

Another possibility is click vinyl. These are solid vinyl elements with a thickness of eight to twelve millimeters with “groove and spring” for easy clicking, which are also suitable as floor coverings for the kitchen. Click vinyl is not glued to the substrate, but laid loosely on a foam pad or other type of impact sound insulation. Klickvinyl is also available as a full vinyl, which is at least insensitive to water.

Vinyl floors not suitable for the kitchen:

Ready-made vinyl floors on HDF carrier boards are rather unsuitable for the kitchen. These are highly compacted wood fibreboards, the top layer of which is coated with a very thin vinyl layer. The principle is similar to that of laminate floors. HDF carriers are sensitive to water and high humidity, which can cause them to deform.

One of the special advantages of a vinyl floor in the kitchen is the extraordinary variety of design. Vinyl floors for the kitchen are available in wood designs as replicas of oak, beech or maple, but also as ship flooring, in plank look, in herringbone pattern and in stone look. Even those who favour a tile design in the kitchen will get their money’s worth, because vinyl flooring for the kitchen is also available in a tile look.

Vinyl flooring in the kitchen
This retro vinyl floor can’t do anything.

Why a specialist should lay the vinyl floor in the kitchen

Vinyl floors must meet certain requirements in the kitchen. These can only be fulfilled if the flooring is laid by a specialist.

Among other things, the substrate and the barrier primer must be perfectly applied in order to be able to install the vinyl floor in the kitchen. Very precise work in the areas of the joints is extremely important, on the one hand to ensure the tightness and on the other hand for an excellent appearance with very thin silicone joints.

If a joint is applied too wide, the entire flooring appears inferior.

As a specialist company, we not only install your vinyl floor perfectly in the kitchen, but also support you in choosing the right design. Contact us today!

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With the right care, your vinyl floor will retain its original appearance for a long time. The maintenance effort is not high and can be done in a few steps.

What you need is a care product and a mop or another tool.

There are also certain behaviours and measures that help to remove scratches and pressure marks on the vinyl floor. With a desk chair pad you can also protect your vinyl floor from scratches. What you can do to take proper care of your vinyl floor – you can find out here.

Vinyl floor care: Initial care after laying the vinyl floor

After the laying of the vinyl floor it is advisable to carry out a vinyl floor maintenance immediately.

This basic care ensures that the floor covering is sealed so that it is less susceptible to soiling, dirt deposits and scratches.

After you have cleaned the floor of all impurities, carefully cleaned it and it is dry, you can start with the initial care for the vinyl floor.

Apply a care product suitable for vinyl floors in two work steps, between which at least two hours should be allowed.

To do this, spread the care product onto the floor in a wafer-thin layer using a mop or other tool and leave it to work for two hours.

This long exposure time is necessary so that the care product cannot form streaks.

When using vinyl floor care products, please also follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the label. Then repeat this step once again.

The maintenance film acts like a very thin varnish, which lies protectively over the floor covering. Some vinyl floors are already equipped with a special surface protection, so that initial maintenance after installation of the vinyl floor is unnecessary.

In principle, after each basic cleaning, you should also perform the so-called initial care on vinyl floors with surface protection.

In furnished rooms, you can make your work easier by working in several sections and temporarily removing or moving the furniture out of the way.

If large pieces of furniture are not pushed aside, you must expect that later gloss differences will be visible on the surface.

Maintaining vinyl flooring with the machine
Basic cleaning is an important step before the initial care is applied.

Vinyl floor care: basic cleaning to refresh the flooring

Basic cleaning is an important part of vinyl floor maintenance.

It is not only used to remove stubborn impurities. It is also recommended if your vinyl floor has lost its original shine.

For basic cleaning as a maintenance measure, mix all-purpose cleaner and water in the mixing ratio described on the label.

Apply this mixture to the floor with a mop, wiper or other tool and leave to work for about fifteen minutes.

Then remove residues of cleaning and maintenance products from the surface of the vinyl floor with a scrubbing brush with soft bristles and without a cloth.

Then carefully remove the dissolved dirt with a wipe or mop and wipe the floor covering again with clear water and let it dry.

You can shorten this procedure by using a single-disc machine for basic cleaning, which reliably removes residues of cleaning and care products.

For both variants, carry out the initial care described above, as you should apply a new care film after each basic cleaning to protect the vinyl floor. This is also the way to remove differences in gloss.

Vinyl floor care: How to protect your vinyl floor from damage

Vinyl floors are basically insensitive and easy to maintain. Nevertheless, it is pointed stones, dirt particles and pieces of furniture that can damage it.

But with certain measures you can avoid unpleasant scratches. For example, use protective glides or felt glides under tables, chairs and furniture, which allow smooth gliding without scratching or damaging the floor covering and which prevent pressure points in the floor.

Replace hard castors on office chairs with soft ones. Also, equip the entrance area with sisal, coconut or rubber floor mats so that dirt, stones and dust can be wiped off before entering the living area.

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If tiles have become unsightly or have gone out of fashion in colour, the search for alternatives begins when new tiles are not an option.

One way to cover a tiled floor is to use vinyl floors.

But is it at all possible to lay vinyl floor on tiles?

The answer is: It depends, because not every vinyl flooring is suitable for this purpose, and there are also some special features to consider when laying it.

You can find out which vinyl flooring is suitable for laying on tiles and which is not and which special features have to be taken into account here.

Which vinyl floors are suitable for laying on tiles?

There are three different types of vinyl floors, namely solid vinyl, click vinyl and click vinyl with HDF backing, which have different properties and accordingly advantages and disadvantages and which are laid in different ways, so that not every vinyl floor is suitable for laying on tiles.

Vinyl floors on tiles are plastered
The spatula layer on which the vinyl planks are later glued.

Is Vollvinyl suitable for laying on tiles?

Solid vinyl is a 2 to 4 millimetre thick plank, commonly known as PVC strip. This is the original and typical floor covering when talking about a vinyl floor, a design floor made of vinyl or design vinyl. Solid vinyl is laid firmly with the subfloor bonded. For this reason, this floor covering is extremely robust and resistant, so that it can even be used in the commercial sector and in shop fitting.

The advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of solid vinyl is that this floor covering is glued to the tiles and fixed to the substrate.

This gives the vinyl floor stability so that the floor does not bounce when walked on and does not rattle. Instead, it feels safe and solid. Full vinyl is also resistant to water and heat radiation. Together with the levelling layer, the solid vinyl flooring achieves a maximum height between 5 and 8 millimetres, so that doors need to be sanded down only slightly, if at all.

The disadvantage of solid vinyl is that due to the careful gluing to the tiles the laying is more costly and therefore also more cost-intensive compared to the click system.
We recommend this variant to our customers when it comes to gluing vinyl flooring on tiles.

Is Klick-Vinyl suitable for laying on tiles?

Unlike solid vinyl, click vinyl consists of 8 to 12 millimetres thicknesses click elements, similar to click laminate. Due to the click system, click vinyl is cut to size with a vinyl cutter and then laid lose on a foam underlay or a impact sound insulation for vinyl and not glued. If the click vinyl consists of solid vinyl, it is at least insensitive to water.

The benefits

The decisive advantage of Klick-Vinyl is that this vinyl floor can be laid very quickly and with little effort thanks to the click system . That is why do-it-yourselfers can also take on this task. After careful cleaning, the vinyl floor is laid floating on the impact sound insulation, whereby sufficient distance from the wall should be maintained. Once this work is done, the skirting boards are finally attached.

The disadvantages

The disadvantage of Click-Vinyl is that the floor, like laminate, can rattle and rock easily on an uneven surface.

Depending on the quality of the click vinyl, the material can warp due to the fact that it is not firmly fixed to the ground due to high humidity or strong sunlight and very high temperatures.

Moreover, click vinyl reacts much more sensitively to water than the glued version with full vinyl. Overall, Klick-Vinyl achieves a high construction thickness, so that together with the impact sound insulation 12 to 15 millimetres can be achieved. Therefore, it is possible that the floor with the newly installed vinyl floor total may become too high, so that opening the door and other constructions in this room are impaired.

Place click vinyl on tiles only in exceptional cases

Even though vinyl flooring floating on tiles can be laid , we only recommend this variant to our customers in justified exceptional cases.

One of these exceptions is the installation of a vinyl floor on existing tiles with underfloor heating. Most vinyl floors are approved by the manufacturers for underfloor heating, but with the restriction that underfloor heating can be limited to a maximum temperature of 28 degrees Celsius.

Additional values are usually not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. For the maximum efficiency of underfloor heating, Klick-Vinyl is better suited than full vinyl. However, the thermal permeability can be affected by the impact sound insulation.

Vinyl floor ingess to tiles
Tiles are first sprinkled before the adhesive is applied.

Is Click Vinyl with HDF carrier suitable for laying on tiles?

Click vinyl with HDF backing is the lowest quality level for vinyl floors. Laminate floors are also made of so-called HDF or MDF carriers, which are highly compressed wood fibre boards. Unlike laminate floors, click vinyl floors with HDF backing are covered with an approx. 1 millimetre thin vinyl layer. However, this construction is very sensitive to water and high humidity.

Once this type of vinyl floor has been exposed to water and has become deformed, it no longer assumes its original shape . The distortions remain even after drying. For this reason, it is not recommended to install Click-Vinyl with HDF backing as vinyl flooring on tiles.

Why only professionals should lay your full vinyl on tiles

Vinyl flooring should only be laid on tiles by professionals for various reasons.

First, the substrate must be cleaned carefully. Subsequently, a special primer is applied, which is either a mixture of epoxy resin with quartz sand or PU primer (polyurethane) with quartz sand. A compensating mass is then placed and the substrate is carefully spat and straightened.

Only in this way is it possible to prevent the structure of the tiles or even the joints from being pushed through and becoming visible through the vinyl floor. These preparatory measures are also necessary because the adhesive for the vinyl floor needs an absorbent substrate to provide sufficient hold and long-term adhesion.

Firstly by filling the surface with filler a smooth and stable surface is created, which is sanded after the drying process to level out any unevenness and to create a flawless substrate free of residue. Only then can the full vinyl floor be laid and glued.

looking for a specialist company where can buy vinyl flooring or where you can have a vinyl flooring installed, where your questions will be answered and you will receive detailed advice? Then contact us today.

Popular cleaners for vinyl floors

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vinyl floors are among the most sought-after floor coverings in the commercial sector and in private homes.

This is not only due to the good price-performance ratio and the favourable possibilities to order online (also remaining stock), but also because of the offered design shelves and the numerous variants and colours for individual interior design.

Thanks to its surface texture, a vinyl floor is easy to clean. Depending on the demands on the floor, dry or damp cleaning and care are recommended.

Which variants are available and what special measures you can take in case of stubborn stains – find out here!

Clean vinyl floor: Dry cleaning with a b0 sin or vacuum cleaner

Small stones, sand or other dirt that sticks to the shoes are quickly carried into the house or into the apartment.

This is all the more true when children and pets live in the household. These dirt particles can scratch the vinyl floor in the long run, which makes the surface dull. This damage in the vinyl floor is difficult to repair.

Remove loose dirt quickly and effectively with a dry mop, a broom or with a vinyl floor vacuum cleaner.

Unlike mop and broom, the vacuum cleaner whirls up less dust particles, which, usually invisible, accumulate daily on the vinyl floor.

For vacuum cleaners there are special brush attachments which glide gently over the floor, so that scratches are avoided. Also vacuum cleaner robots are usually well suited for cleaning vinyl floors.

Clean vinyl floor with the wiper mop
There is usually no need for more: water, wiper mop and some cleaning agent are enough.

Clean vinyl floor: Wet cleaning with the wiper mop

If dirt adheres to the vinyl floor, dry cleaning is no longer sufficient.

Then the floor covering damply should be wiped . To be able to remove the dirt from the floor more easily, add some washing-up liquid or all-purpose cleaner to the cleaning water. Before cleaning, remove all carpets or other floor mats.

Not all cleaning additives are suitable for cleaning the vinyl floor.

You can use all-purpose cleaner, neutral cleaner, or special cleaning agents for vinyl floors, soft soap and certain glass cleaners.

Make sure that the cleaning agent really cleans and leaves no film on the floor.

To avoid this, wipe the floor again with clear water to which you can add a little vinegar (caution, only with full vinyl!), which has a disinfecting effect and prevents streaking.

Do not use cleaners with solvents (some glass and intensive cleaners), which can cause discoloration of the floor covering.

You should also avoid scouring milk or scouring powder, which can damage the surface of the vinyl floor.

If you are using a cleaning agent for the first time, you should test it on an inconspicuous spot or, even better, on a sample piece of your vinyl floor (e.g. residues from the vinyl floor installation).

Wipe the vinyl floor moist. This means that you should definitely wring out the mop and not spend it wet on the floor.

It is important that it no longer drips and that you avoid puddle formation. Even if the vinyl floor is water-repellent, it can swell if water remains in one place for a long period of time during a too humid cleaning (applies only to click vinyl with HDF/MDF carrier).

If you follow this advice, the vinyl floor will be dry in about five minutes.

During and after cleaning, ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated so that moisture can escape.

Clean vinyl floor with the sponge
If possible, avoid the rough side of the sponge. This can cause fine scratches and gloss differences during cleaning

Cleaning vinyl flooring: measures for stubborn stains

It is not always possible to remove all stains with the clean vinyl floor. Stubborn stains can be treated by applying the cleaning agent undiluted to the stain and allowing it to work for a short time.

If the product is a special cleaner for vinyl floors, refer to the exposure time indicated on the label of the cleaner.

For some stains it may be useful to rub the cleaning agent lightly into the surface with a sponge, while brushes with soft bristles are suitable for structured surfaces.

If you are unsure about the effectiveness of the detergent, test its effect first on a sample piece or in a little visible place.

Especially sponges with a rough surface should be avoided as they can cause irreversible gloss differences or fine scratches

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Alternatively, you can treat the floor covering with a single or multiple disc machine, which is suitable for intensive cleaning.

After a short reaction time of a special cleaner for vinyl floors, the floor is treated with a rotating nylon pad.

Layer deposits and heavy soiling have no chance.

The floor is then wiped damp. This type of intensive cleaning is usually performed by professionals, as the handling of the machines requires some practice.

Clean vinyl floor with a single-disc machine
Cleaning vinyl floors with the single-disc machine is a professional matter.

If you clean the vinyl floor regularly and remove stains as quickly as possible to avoid permanent damage, you will enjoy this robust and durable flooring for a long time.