Tag Archive for: water damage

For many people who have hardwood floors in their homes, the appearance of white spots and white marks can be both perplexing and frustrating. What caused them? Where did they come from? How do I get remove white spots on wood floors?

In this article, we’ll answer all these questions and offer some tips for prevention as well.

white spots on hardwood floors

What Causes White Spots on Wood Floors?

Although there are a lot of ways to prompt them, there aren’t too many causes of white spots and white marks on hardwood floors.  Let’s discuss these:

Heat

If you enjoy watching TV while sitting cross-legged on the floor eating a pizza, you should probably consider how hot the underside of a pizza carton can be.

The same goes for most cardboard or foil boxes that are used to contain hot food for delivery. These containers are all designed to keep food hot.  

Heat can also be transferred through the bottom of a full coffee or soup mug, or a bowl of hot pasta.

Moisture

Trapped Moisture

If your floors have been recently refinished, white, cloudy spots may form in areas where there wasn’t enough drying time between the coats of lacquer.

Where a wood floor’s finish is worn, water can seep under the edges of the finish and also become trapped between the layers

Spills and Condensation 

If you’re washing that pizza down with an ice-cold beverage, resting the can or bottle on the wood floor can cause white marks. This is the result of condensation traveling down the outside of the can or bottle. Left unchecked, water spills on hardwood floors and condensation can form white water marks on a wood floor.  

Tap Water

In terms of water, “hard” is the term used to describe water with high mineral content.

On some level, most tap water contains minerals. When water evaporates, the minerals remain. Damp mopping with tap water can cause white spots to appear if droplets are allowed to evaporate before they’re dried. The harder the water; the bigger the problem.

Rainwater

Rainwater that’s tracked in from outside is a more common concern in climates with heavy or long rainy seasons.

In these cases, white spots are usually more present nearest a home’s entry doors. This is because rainwater usually contains sodium. On hardwood floors, when rainwater evaporates, the sodium remains.  

Snow 

As if water tracked in from outside isn’t bad enough news, snow along with its naturally high sodium content can be especially rough on hardwood floors. Rainwater is naturally salty, but snow is even saltier.

In the northern hemisphere, wood floors surrounding entry doors can quickly become almost entirely white during the winter. The melted snow’s deposits of salt and other minerals often combine to form what appears to be a large cloud.

Removing scale from a hardwood floor can be a tedious and time-consuming challenge.  

Mold

If the white spots were discovered under a potted plant or under something that remained in direct contact with the floor (boxes, cushions, or even shoes), this could be white mold.

Mold needs two things to survive; moisture and a food source. In this case, the food source is wood.

This type of trouble is more prevalent in moist climates. White mold usually grows in dark, dank areas of a home. You might notice a white powdery substance on the edges of the wooden basement stairs or the basement ceiling joists that support the floor above.

If a roof has leaks or isn’t properly ventilated, white mold might be present on the attic rafters or crawlspaces.

In some cases, the overall appearance of mold can become darker as it generates more spores.

For some people, this situation can send health spiraling downward. For others, the same situation might not even prompt a sneeze. 

Read our article on how to remove mold on wooden floors to deal with this.

Spider Poop

Yes. You read that right.

No. We’re not kidding.

Granted, spiders don’t usually gather out in the open for a poop pow-wow or defecation shindig on hardwood floors.

In fact, most spiders don’t even do this on special occasions. (!) But if it’s been a while since the last time the corners of the room were dusted, well …anything’s possible.

Cleaning Solutions For Removing White Spots That Can Ruin Hardwood Floors

When some people think about removing hard water deposits, the first solution that comes to mind is a container of all-in-one calcium, lime, and rust remover. This type of product can be very destructive to wood and wood finishes.

For other people, the solution is vinegar. But vinegar’s low Ph content makes it as unsuitable for cleaning wood floors as other acidic solutions. Vinegar is corrosive. Corrosives should not be used as wood floor cleaning solutions.

Of course, vinegar can be diluted, but if you’re going to do that, you might as well dilute lemon juice. The Ph content is about the same and lemons smell good.

How To Remove White Spots From Hardwood Floors?

The solution to white spots and marks depends on the cause:

White Spots Caused By Heat

The remedy for this is quick and simple; Place a dampened terry cloth towel on the spot and hold a blow dryer over it.

Start with the blow dryer on the lowest heat setting and check your progress every few seconds.

White Spots Caused By Trapped Moisture

More often than not, these will go away on their own.

If not, treat these as you would a white spot caused by heat, but leave the dampened terry cloth towel out of the process.

Removing Spots Of White Mold

If the white spots are limited to an isolated area such as under a potted plant, a pair of shoes, etc., hydrogen peroxide will remove this. Hydrogen peroxide also functions as a mildewcide.

(See, How To Remove White Spots Caused By Moisture…)

However, if you discover white mold in other places as well, the best thing to do is to call a mold remediation specialist. A remediation service ensures the removal of all mold throughout the entire home.

To Remove Spider Dung

Dust the corners and spray some pet stain cleaner on the um… er… spots. They will disappear in a few minutes. Wipe the area dry with a microfiber cloth (If you’d rather use several squares of t.p., that’s your prerogative).

To Remove White Spots Caused By Moisture

Alkali and acid neutralize one another.

Because most forms of water are somewhat alkaline, a somewhat acidic solution should be used to remove the minerals that remain after evaporation. Hydrogen peroxide in an appropriate concentration will serve this purpose.

Things You’ll Need:

  1. Floor Vacuum (or a vacuum with a setting for wood floors or with a hard floor accessory attachment. Nothing with a brush roller)
  2. Face Mask
  3. Rubber, Latex, or Vinyl Gloves
  4. 8 oz. Hydrogen Peroxide 6%  (or 1 oz. pure lemon juice and 10 oz. distilled water)
  5. Spray Bottle (Empty and clean)
  6. Neutral Ph Floor Cleaner for Hardwood
  7. Flip-Head Mop
  8. Several Two-Sided Mop Pads (one side for damp mopping, the other side for drying)
  9. Several Terry Cloth Towels
  10. Plastic Putty Knife
  11. Whisk broom and dustpan

Instructions:

  1. Put on the face mask and gloves
  2. Transfer the hydrogen peroxide or lemon water solution into the spray bottle
  3. Spray a small area (1’ x 1’) of the floor
  4. While this area of the floor is still wet, use the plastic putty knife to gently remove as much of the offending white crud as possible. Don’t worry if you can’t get all of it. We’ll discuss what to do about the rest later. Pro Tip: When scraping any surface with a putty knife, it’s important to always keep the surface wet.
  5. Scrape residue from the putty knife into the dustpan.
  6. Wipe the area with a water-dampened terry cloth towel as you move from one area to the next. After you’ve scraped up as much of the white stains as can be easily scraped from your wood floor, you’ll move on to confront the more stubborn deposits that remain.
  7. Saturate several terry cloth towels with distilled water and wring them out until they’re damp only
  8. Focusing on a 3’ x 3’ section of the floor, spray the remaining patches of white with the solution in the spray bottle (It’s easier to work in sections not larger than about 3’ x 3’)
  9. Place the damp terry cloth towels over the white stains.
  10. Check the stains every five minutes to see if they come up more easily.  If they don’t, leave the dampened towels in place until the next check. Be sure to keep the towels damp. Exchange them with freshly dampened towels if necessary.
  11. When the stains have become less resistant, remove them with your   putty knife as you did earlier with the less stubborn ones
  12. Move to the next section of the floor and repeat steps 8-11
  13. When all the white spots and marks have been removed, damp mop the entire floor with the neutral Ph floor cleaner. Use the chenille side of the mop pad to dry and buff the floor as you go
  14. Follow up with the Neutral pH Cleaning Solution according to the manufacturer’s directions for use

Preventing White Spots on Hardwood Floors

As always, the key to the life and beauty of hardwood floors is proper care.

Of course, it might be possible to go on forever about various difficulties that can come with hardwood floors. But in reality, these challenges are usually the result of improper or lacking maintenance.  Where a simple but solid care and maintenance routine is in place, these challenges rarely present themselves.

Listed in random order, here are some measures to take to prevent white spots:

  1. Clean up spills as soon as they happen
  2. If you’re inclined to using your hardwood floor as a coffee or dining table, be sure to use coasters.
  3. While you’re at it, set that pizza carton on a pair of oven mitts
  4. To clean your hardwood floor, try using a neutral Ph floor cleaner intended for use on hardwood
  5. When damp mopping, be sure to dry the floor as you go
  6. If your tap water is hard, use distilled water to damp mop
  7. Remove potted plants from the floor
  8. Place protective floor mats on either side of exterior doors. To ensure that shoes are dry, place two or three mats next to one another inside the entry
  9. Keep a towel handy so that Fido’s paws can be dried when he comes in after getting them wet
  10. Better yet, buy Fido some protective footwear
  11. Even better still, be sure that everyone removes wet footwear upon entering the home (You too, Fido)
  12. Have and use an appropriately located umbrella stand
  13. If your home doesn’t have a mudroom or some form of an anteroom, try setting up an entry bench with shoe storage. That way, items 9 and 11 can be more easily managed
  14. Mount coat hooks and a hat rack over the bench so that outerwear can be removed when entering the house
  15. Get in the habit of entering through the door located nearest to wherever the floor cleaning equipment and supplies are stored
  16. Be sure to include corners in your usual dusting routine to ensure the removal of spider webs
  17. Place rugs in areas of your wood floor where foot traffic is heavy. This will prevent the finish from becoming worn.

Whatever type of hard floors are installed in your home, in addition to preventing white spots, keeping floors dry will go a long way to reducing the risk of slips and falls.

Despite being a more functional option compared to hardwood flooring in terms of cost, ease of installation, and resistance to water and staining, laminate flooring can be affected by certain issues.

One of these is bubbling. But what is it and how can you resolve it when it occurs? Find out right here where we discuss how to fix laminate floor bubbles in detail.

What Is Laminate Floor Bubbling?

Laminate floor bubbling refers to a condition that causes small parts of surfaces in this category to rise up close to the seams or at the center of planks, giving the impression that your floor is peeling slightly.

bubbling in laminate floor

Causes of Bubbling in Laminate Flooring

1. Excessive Moisture in the Air

The presence of excess moisture in the air may cause bubbling in laminate floors. This could occur during the summer, or even if you happen to live in excessively humid areas.

This issue could also be further exacerbated by a lack of adequate ventilation as well.

2. Neglecting Spills

Spills should be cleaned up instantly since laminate floors are not waterproof. Failure to do so could result in your surfaces bubbling. 

3. Using the Wrong Cleaning Methods and Products

The use of mops (either those of the manual or steam variety) can result in excess water seeping into the laminate floor and causing the layers of the plank to separate. This issue can also be caused by using the wrong cleaning products which may affect the adhesive used to hold the layers together.

The loosening of the glue may result in the veneer layer being separated from the plank which may manifest as bubbling. (This separation is also referred to as delamination and may also be caused by low-quality laminate products.)

4. Lack of an Expansion Gap

Laminate floor planks are not meant to be in contact with the walls of a room, stairs, or cabinetry.

Failure to provide an expansion gap between the planks and these components when the laminate floor is installed will result in the planks pushing up against each other during the onset of warmer weather possibly resulting in bubbling in the surface.

Leaving an expansion gap bigger than the recommended size can also lead to issues. 

5. Failure to Take Required Precautions With the Subfloor

Concrete subfloors are not impervious to water and due to their porous nature, moisture will seep through them.

If laminate flooring is installed without permitting an adequate curing period for the subfloor or without the presence of a suitable vapor barrier, it may cause moisture-related issues such as bubbling or buckling in laminate floors.

How to Fix Bubbles in Laminate Flooring?

There are several options for repairing bubbling in laminate flooring which each depend on the cause of the issue. As a result, you will need to examine the floor to determine the reason for the bubbling and select one or more of the appropriate solutions provided below:

1. Check the Extent of the Damage

If only a single plank is damaged, you will simply need to remove the molding, and then the planks from the wall, until you get to the affected plank. You will then need to remove the damaged board and replace it with another from the original batch. 

If the bubbling is more widespread, you may need to replace the entire surface since the issue is likely to be due to the floorboards being of poor quality.  

2. Provide an Expansion Gap

Are the walls level with the laminate floor planks or do they even slightly overlap them? To resolve the issue, you will need to remove the molding and cut a gap of at least a quarter of an inch to provide sufficient space to allow for the expansion of the floors during warmer weather. (The larger the surface of the laminate floors, the larger the gap will have to be.)

To cut in straight lines you will need a circular saw while a jigsaw will do for circular contours. 

A degree of skill is required to cut laminate flooring and so you may need to rely on the services of a professional.

Once you have provided the expansion gap and replaced the molding, you may need to place weights on any uneven planks to restore the smoothness of your floor.

3. Cut Through Bubbles on Planks

It is possible to cut and glue bubbles on planks. You will require the following tools:

  • A sharp knife
  • Wood glue

You will also need to:

Cut a slit through each bubble

For each affected plank you will have to make an incision through every bubble.

Apply the wood glue

Wood glue can stain the flooring and so care will need to be taken when applying it. You will need to squeeze a small amount through each incision and smoothen it. 

A weight should be applied for 24 hours to give the wood glue time to dry.

4. Glue Delaminated Wear Layers

Loose wear layers can be fixed by gluing them. You will need the following tools:

  • Putty knife
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Compressed air

For each affected spot on each plank you will have to do the following:

Apply compressed air beneath the delaminated layer

This can be done by inserting the blade of the putty knife beneath the wear layer and applying the compressed air. Doing so will enable you to ensure it is clean enough to apply the glue.

Apply the wood glue

You will have to apply the adhesive while taking care to hold the layer up with the knife and press a small quantity of wood glue beneath the topmost layer of the plank.

Clamp the planks

You will have to apply the clamps to the parts of the planks to which glue has been applied making them pretty tight.

You will also need to leave the clamps in place for 24 hours which is the period the wood glue will need to dry.

Preventing Laminate Floor Bubbling

Laminate floor bubbling can be prevented by taking the following precautions:

1. Installing Moisture Barriers

Moisture barriers with a minimum of 6mm must be installed above concrete subfloors. If you live in particularly humid areas, you will need to ensure they are at least 12 mm thick.

2. Using the Right Cleaning Methods

Excessive amounts of water should be avoided when cleaning since, it will penetrate the planks and subsequently damage them.

Acidic cleaning agents such as vinegar are also unsuitable   for laminate floors since they will affect the glue holding each plank together and cause loose veneers.

3. Making Use of Dehumidifiers 

This is especially important during summer when humidity can be rather high. Switching on your air conditioning units can also help to reduce moisture levels in the air and reduce the risk of any resulting damage to your floors.

4. Pay Close Attention to Humidity Levels

The recommended levels of humidity for laminate flooring range between a maximum of 60% and a minimum of 30%. Ensuring humidity is maintained between this range will enable you to protect your floors from the risk of any damage from excess moisture in the air.

FAQs

Can I repair swollen laminate flooring without replacing it?

It will depend on the underlying cause of the swelling. When laminate flooring swells due to the presence of excess moisture, it will not regain its original size back even when dried. Under such circumstances, it is best to replace the affected part of the floor.

However, if the swelling in the floor planks is due to the use of glue to install them, the issue would ordinarily be resolved when the moisture from the adhesive dries out (this should take about a month). There will be no need to replace the boards in this instance.

What parts of the home are the least suitable for laminate floors?

Parts of your house that will see a great deal of moisture are the least suitable for laminate floors. This includes kitchens, bathrooms, mudrooms, basements, and covered porches. It is best to opt for more water-resistant flooring choices such as ceramic tiles or vinyl instead.

How can I get rid of water under laminate flooring?

Simply remove the boards and remove the excess water using a wet vacuum. Next, allow it to dry out completely. 

However, it is worth noting that the water may actually extend to other areas,

You may need to call on the services of a professional to ensure they are able to detect any further damage and thoroughly eliminate any excess moisture present, forestalling any risk of mold or mildew.

Conclusion

The main cause of bubbling in laminate floors is moisture although it may also be caused by poor quality flooring or the lack of an expansion gap.

It can easily be fixed by using wood glue, replacing the entire surface (in the case of widespread damage), or cutting an expansion gap.

Two weeks after you have moved into your dream home, you pop out to do some shopping. On your return, you find Cookie and Fudge, your two Labradors, lapping at a pool of water on the pale golden wooden floor of your dining room.

What should you do to clear up the spilled water on the wood floor and minimize water damage to your hardwood floors? What issues are likely to arise as a result of the incident?

In this post, we examine the answers to these questions in detail to enable you to handle such an occurrence effectively and as a result, minimize the risk of further damage to your floor.

What To Do If You Spill Water on Hardwood Floor?

When any spill occurs, you will need to act as quickly as possible. Taking prompt action can enable you to forestall the possibility of your floors sustaining any serious damage, and possibly prevent any reduction to the value of your home, and even damage to your property as well. 

The following steps will enable you to get rid of as much moisture in the shortest possible time and greatly reduce the risk of any of the above issues occurring.

1. Identify the Source of the Spill

The first thing you need to do is determine the source of the water (once you’ve gotten your pets out of the room to prevent them from spreading even more water all over your home). You would need to find out whether it is due to a leak, a burst pipe, or simply the result of your pets turning over their water bowls.

This step is of paramount importance since attempting to mop up the water without being able to stop it from its source will defeat the purpose of getting rid of it.

2. Remove Any Furniture and Furnishings

Once you have cut off the flow of water, you will need to remove any mats, rugs, or carpets in the area. You will also need to remove any furniture as well. The furniture and the furnishings will have to be placed in an appropriately safe place.

Doing so will enable you to assess the full extent of the spill, and also ensure you can prevent any furniture or soft furnishings which have not been drenched from getting soaked.

Taking this precaution will also enable you to prevent any soaked items from constituting an additional risk to your wooden floor.

3. Mop Up the Water

This task is best handled using absorbent clothes such as old towels to be able to get rid of the excess water as promptly as you can. If you have to deal with a significant amount of water, you will need to make use of a wet vac. You will also need to use it even if you are dealing with a spill that has been mopped up with towels to ensure you can target any moisture which has seeped between each plank.

4. Get Rid of Any Residue

Depending on the source of the spilled water on your wood floor, you may have to deal with lingering silt or mud. This residue will need to be cleaned up thoroughly as well to not only restore the surface to its pristine state but to also reduce any possible risk of staining.

5. Disinfect the Surface

Getting rid of any water spilled on your hardwood floor is only one part of the task of minimizing damage to it. Another risk that occurs due to the spill is that of mold that prefers moist, warm, organic surfaces. This fungus can cause damage to your floors, furniture, and soft furnishings and most importantly can negatively affect your health.

You will need the following:

  • Gloves
  • Mask
  • Absorbent cloths
  • Cleaning cloths
  • Spray bottle
  • Disinfectant (store-bought or homemade — a solution made from 1 cup of water and ¼ cup vinegar.)

You will need to ensure the entire room is ventilated properly and spray the disinfectant on the part of the floor affected by the spill. You will also need to clean the surface thoroughly with it and clean it up with absorbent cloths at once.

Following this procedure, you should make use of the wet vac to eliminate any excess moisture your floor has been exposed to as a result of this step.

If you have any questions, we have a detailed guide for disinfecting your hardwood floors here.

6. Switch on Your Dehumidifier

Dehumidifiers are excellent at eliminating any excess moisture from the air and in this instance, they will dry it out and also dry out your floor as well.

Air conditioners are also capable of functioning as dehumidifiers to some extent and should be switched on as well as any fans in the room.

To eliminate as much moisture as possible, you will need to run these appliances for an extensive period (between 24 to 72 hours).

As is required during the disinfecting process, you will also need to leave the windows open during this step (unless there happens to be a downpour).

7. Assess the Extent of the Water Damage

Despite your efforts, and depending on the circumstances of the spill, there will be the possibility of lingering moisture in your wood floor. As a result, you will need to use a moisture meter to regularly check for the presence of any excess moisture during the weeks following the spill.

Issues Which May Arise Due to Neglecting Water Spilled on Wood Floor

Due to the organic nature of wood and its tendency to absorb water, spills should be taken seriously.

Merely mopping up the pooled water and moving furniture aside to dab up any in concealed areas will not be sufficient in the event of a spill. Failure to implement the above steps may result in the following issues:

1. Cupping

Exposure to water may result in an imbalance in moisture levels in the planks of your wood floor with higher levels being present at their bases. This could result in their sides expanding so that they are raised higher than their centers giving them a convex shape — an occurrence known as cupping. Learn how to fix cupping in hardwood floors in our detailed article.

Cupping in hardwood floors

2. Buckling

If the spill happens to be especially large and is not handled immediately in an effective manner, the exposure to the excess moisture may result in the planks actually lifting from the floor resulting in an uneven surface. This occurrence is referred to as buckling. It may be resolved by removing the affected planks, thoroughly drying the underlying surface, and adding new replacement planks. For more details, check out our article on how to fix buckling in hardwood floors.

buckled hardwood floors

3. Mold Damage

Mold tends to thrive in the presence of moisture and organic material, hence an unattended spill could provide it with the ideal opportunity to spread in your home. The fungus also tends to propagate promptly as well.

The presence of unattended moisture in your floors could attract spores which will begin to reproduce while feeding on the wood. They could also spread to other sources of organic material such as paintings, furniture, drapes, and upholstery and damage them as well.

The presence of mold in your home could irritate the eyes, noses, and throats of residents. It could also trigger allergic reactions and even result in more grievous issues such as serious damage to the lungs.

We recommend going through our article on removing mold on hardwood floors.

What to Do In Case of Major Water Damage to Your Hardwood Floor?

In addition to buckling or cupping, another sign which is likely to alert you to the presence of water damage is the appearance of stains on the affected parts of the hardwood floor.

This discoloration may be caused by nails becoming rusted, the presence of mold, or the reaction of the tannins contained in the wood to the presence of water.  

The following steps will need to be taken depending on the extent and the nature of the damage to restore your floors to normal:

1. Drying

Occasionally, cupped hardwood floors may flatten over time as they dry out. However, this may take up to half a month or even longer. The use of dehumidifiers and special fans can help to shorten this process. 

2. Removing Damaged Planks

In the event of permanent damage to part of your floor, you will need to remove the affected planks. 

It is worth noting that you will also need to remove adjacent planks to those damaged by mold or stains.

This is due to the fact they may very often be affected as well even though it may not be immediately visible.

3. Checking the Subfloor

You will also need to check the subfloor and the underlying concrete to ensure they are both free of mold and moisture. If this is not the case, you will need to remove the subfloor and dry out the concrete. You will also need to replace the subfloor and install a moisture barrier following which you will be able to add the new planks which should ideally be from the same batch as those already used for your floor.

4. Sanding and Refinishing

This procedure is often carried out to correct cupping in flooring. However, special care must be taken to ensure the planks are dried out properly, failing which crowning may occur.

This procedure may also be an option when replacing part of the wood floor with new planks to provide the entire surface with a uniform appearance.

One summer afternoon you come down to lunch and you suddenly notice something is not quite right. When your sports magazine slips from your grasp and you bend to pick it up from the floor, you discover what it is. The smooth glossy hardwood surface seems somewhat uneven, dipping slightly in places. What is it and what could have caused it? Can it be fixed and how?

In this article, we shall be answering all these questions in detail and learning how to fix cupping in hardwood floors to enable you to resolve the problem as efficiently as possible and restore your floors to their initial state.

What Is Cupping in Hardwood Floors?

Cupping in hardwood floors refers to a condition that causes individual planks to rise at the sides. It may be considered to be the opposite of crowning where the center of a plank rises higher than the edges.

In both cases, your floor will lose its even smoothness resulting in its surface becoming irregular. However, in the case of cupping, its planks will take on a concave or cup-like shape hence the name of the condition.

Cupping in wood floors

Causes of Hardwood Floor Cupping

The main cause of cupping in hardwood floors is the presence of excess moisture in the immediate vicinity.

The material from which hardwood floors are made is especially susceptible to moisture due to the tendency of wood to absorb it, particularly when it is present in large quantities to adjust its own moisture levels to match those of its surroundings.

Cupping affects both engineered and solid hardwood and can occur under the following conditions:

  • Spills: If water spills are not cleaned instantly or properly, the fluid will seep into the wood resulting in its swelling and the alteration of its form.
  • Leaks: Because leaks often take a while to detect, they can be especially damaging to hardwood floors due to the prolonged exposure to moisture they cause.
  • Excess subfloor moisture: If your basement or crawl space happens to be affected by dampness, it may cause cupping in the floorboards in the room above.
  • Changes in weather conditions: Certain climates experience rather warm and humid summers and the season can result in elevated levels of moisture and with it the risk of cupping.
  • Improper installation of flooring: Hardwood flooring must be given time to adjust to surrounding moisture levels by means of a process known as acclimating or conditioning, before it is installed. Failure to take this step could result in cupping in a matter of months.

How to Fix Cupping in Hardwood Floors 

It is possible to fix cupping in hardwood floors by taking the following steps:

Ascertaining Moisture Levels

This should be the first step you take before attempting to repair or replace all or part of your flooring or before seeking professional assistance.

This can be done by using a wood moisture meter to check moisture levels in every part of your home.

Conducting due diligence in this regard will enable you to determine moisture levels and their source, and play a key role in enabling you to determine the next step.

Address the Source of the Moisture

Common causes of excess moisture in your home include:

  • Leaking pipes: If the cause of the problem happens to be leaking pipes, you will need to have them repaired.
  • A leaking dishwasher: In the case of this appliance you may need to take a look at its float switch, its gasket, the hoses, the valves, or the door latch. It may even be a matter of using the correct dishwasher detergent or simply ensuring it sits level.
  • A leaking fridge: This may be due to the blockage of the defrost drain or the uneven placing of the appliance. However, if neither of these issues happen to be the cause, professional assistance may be required to resolve the leakages.
  • A damp crawl space:  This may be resolved by placing a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from filling your crawl space. However, you may need to call on the services of a water mitigation professional.

Regulate the Moisture Content of Your Home

This step can be especially effective if the cause of cupping is due to seasonal changes at different times of the year.

You will simply need to use a dehumidifier to eliminate the excess moisture in the air and restore conditions to optimal levels.  Depending on the level of moisture damage in this case and the promptness with which action is taken, you may see your floorboards return to normal.

Related Reading: How To Repair Water-Damaged Hardwood Floors

If the cupping is not reversed once you have taken this step, you may need to proceed to replacing your floor or sanding it.

In either case, you will have the option of relying on professional assistance or replacing or sanding your floor yourself.

Will Cupped Hardwood Floors Flatten Out Over Time?

Depending on the extent of the damage, and the promptness with which the exposure to the excess moisture is stopped, your cupped hardwood floors may flatten eventually.  

It is worth noting that they can take a considerable length of time to do so and as noted above, repairs or sanding should only be carried out once you are certain that cupping is permanent.

Hardwood floors are known for being durable and resilient, but they have one big weakness: water.

Wood flooring can stand up to years of heavy use, but a little water over time can ruin the beautiful hardwood.

Maybe you moved into a house with a damaged wood floor or maybe you have had a flood from the kitchen or bathroom plumbing. If you are noticing stained or warped wood or big gaps between boards, you have water damage.

There are some ways that you can repair water damage you find on your hardwood floors, but sometimes you will need to replace the flooring altogether.

This guide will help you identify the type of damage, find out how to repair water-damaged hardwood floors, and teach you how to prevent future water damage.

How Can I Tell If I Have Water Damage on My Hardwood Floor?

If you recently had a small flood or water leak, you probably know that your wood floor has some water damage.

But if you’re not sure, you can inspect the floor visually for some of the signs of water-damaged flooring.

Wood Floor Staining

Water stains on a wood floor take the shape of an uneven ring that ripples across the wood from the water source. The stains can be either light or dark. Stains with a white outline are easier to repair at home than darker stains, which indicate a complete soaking of the hardwood floor.

Wood Floor Cupping

Cupping is one of the ways that hardwood flooring can warp out of shape when wet. You can identify cupping on your hardwood floor when the edges of the individual boards bend upward and are no longer even with the center part of the boards. It gets its name from the cup or bowl shape each plank takes when the edges rise up. Cupping can also make the gaps between floorboards expand, leaving uncomfortable cracks.

If you want to learn what to do about cupping on your hardwood floor, check out our article on cupping in hardwood floors.

Wood floor crowning

Wood Floor Crowning

Crowning occurs in a similar way to cupping, except the boards warp the opposite way. Crowning floorboards rise up in the middle, creating a bowed or bumpy appearance on each individual board. This is due to the floor pieces expanding and pressing into each other too much. Once the floor dries, it may leave large gaps between pieces.

Wood Floor Buckling

Buckling in wood floors

Buckling is the most extreme type of hardwood water damage. This is when the floor planks are pushed so tightly together that they actually detach from the subfloor. The extreme moisture in the wood causes each floorboard to expand. This can make a large hump in the floor or break the locking tongue-and-groove systems between boards.

Buckling is most likely if your hardwood flooring was installed poorly to begin with or in an extreme flood (such as gallons of water pouring in from a hurricane or a burst pipe).

If you suspect your water damage is so bad that the hardwood floor is buckling, check out our article specifically on buckling wood flooring.

Should You Fix or Replace Water-Damaged Wood Floors?

Once you have water damage on your wood floor, you might wonder if you can get away with fixing the floor instead of paying to replace it. This is especially tempting if your water damage is only a small area of the room.

It may not be safe to live with a water-damaged floor if it was wet enough for mold and other bacteria to grow.

In cases of severe floods or a leak of tainted water (like sewer water), you probably need to replace the whole floor to be safe. These molds or bacteria can be extremely dangerous to live with. Plus, severe leaks can weaken the subfloor and other structural pieces of your home.

If you are concerned that your wood floor may be growing mold, read our article about how to remove mold on a hardwood floor.

If your water damage came from clean water and you are able to dry the floor out completely, you can think about fixing the floor instead.

The problem with fixing hardwood floors is that it can be difficult to match the finish on a repaired section with the original finish.

If the water damage is in an out-of-the-way place or if you can throw a rug over it to hide the difference, repairing it may be a good option. Or, if the hardwood is only in one room of your house, you may be able to refinish the entire floor so it comes out an even color.

Your choice will depend on safety and whether you want to live with a repaired area that may look different than the rest of the floor.

You might consider replacing a section of the hardwood floor with a cheaper and more durable material, like ceramic tile. This is especially common in front of an entry door. You can remove the damaged section of hardwood and install tiles with a neat transition rather than having a section of hardwood that was obviously repaired.

Identifying the Source of the Water

If you find water damage on your hardwood floor that wasn’t there before, you need to be sure where the water came from. The source of the water makes a big difference in the decision of whether you should fix or replace your floors because some water sources may carry harmful bacteria.

What to Do When You Can’t Find The Leak

Sometimes the source of water damage is not obvious. You will want to fix problems before you fix the hardwood flooring so that you don’t have the same damage again on your newly repaired floor.

You can usually narrow water damage in a home down to two categories: external water sources and internal water sources.

External water sources dampen your home through the walls, roof, or foundation. Common external sources include:

  • Overwhelming amounts of water from a storm or flood
  • Overwatering a yard
  • Doors and windows with leaky seals, or that are left open
  • A leaking roof
  • A cracked foundation or inadequate or broken drainage system (sump pump)

Internal water sources come from inside the house. Some common leaks include:

  • Broken plumbing seals, such as radiator pipes or drains under a sink
  • Leaking pipes inside a wall or floor (especially if the pipes have frozen)
  • Failing hot water heaters
  • Soft hoses such as the water supply on a refrigerator or dishwasher (these often get pinched when moving appliances and should be replaced every few years)
  • Overflow from a sink or shower
  • A spilled mop bucket or mopping with too much water

These examples can probably help you find the source of the leak so it can be repaired. If you still have no idea where your water damage is coming from or you suspect it is coming from inside your walls, you probably need to call a plumber.

Is The Water Fresh or Dirty?

The water that stained your floor should fit into one of the following three groups:

  • Clean Water, such as rainwater from an open window, overflow from a sink or tub, or a leaking hot water heater. This water is mostly pure and will carry very few bacteria. Unless the area was wet for several days (enough for mold to grow), this kind of water damage is probably not dangerous.
  • Used or “Gray” Water, such as that from a drainpipe under a sink or shower, has been exposed to some dirt and other waste. If this kind of damage doesn’t dry quickly, it will grow bacteria and mold.
  • Dirty or “Black” Water is tainted water or sewage. This is from a leaking, overflowing, or backed-up septic line. This water is full of dangerous bacteria. You can try to sanitize the wood if it is only a minor leak (1 or 2 liters), but most of the time a black water leak will require replacing the floor. You should wear gloves and a filtering mask when you clean any area damaged by black water.

Identifying the source of the water damage will help you decide whether it’s safe to repair the floor. Of course, this is also the time to correct the problems that allowed water to get onto your floor such as by replacing window seals or calling a plumber to fix a pipe.

How to Fix Water-Damaged Wood Flooring

Depending on how much of the flooring was affected by water damage, you might need to call a professional to repair your water-damaged wood floors. They will be more experienced in sanding and staining the floor evenly. It can be a difficult process, but if you are confident in your DIY abilities, you should be able to pull it off.

After you get the floor completely dry and knock down the warped and water-damaged areas, the process is mostly the same as refinishing a worn-out floor. Feel free to read our other articles on that process, but we will include the steps here.

Step 1: Dry the Floor if it is Still Wet

If your water damage is new, you will need to dry the boards off before you can really assess the damage or make any repairs.

Standing water on the surface can be sucked up with a shop vacuum on wet mode. A squeegee can help push the water toward the vacuum hose.

Then the wood needs time to dry out internally. You can speed this process up by using fans and open windows to ventilate the room. You can also rent or buy a dehumidifier machine.

Be careful not to dry the floor too fast. Applying heat to a wet floor, for instance, can lead to more cupping or crowning. Hardwood needs to adjust gradually to temperature and humidity changes, so stick to natural airflow methods to dry the wood.

Step 2: Check for Extra Floorboards in Storage and Install Them

Usually, flooring installers will leave a few leftover pieces of wood at the house when they put in a floor. If the flooring in your house is decades old, you probably won’t have this luxury, but it doesn’t hurt to look.

A few pieces of flooring may be enough for a flooring installer to remove the damaged boards and replace them with new ones that will match perfectly. This is potentially the easiest way to repair your water-damaged floor, so look around.

Removing the old boards and laying new ones requires experience and the right tools. This is especially true if the wood floor is glued or nailed down. You most likely need a flooring expert to come to your house and replace the boards.

If the match on the finish is close after you install the new boards, this may be all you need to do. If the color difference is really bad, you will want to go on to the refinishing process.

Note that buffing and refinishing the floor will not only be more difficult, but more expensive. You will have to get the tools and supplies to refinish the floor.

Step 3: Sand the Floor

After you place new planks where the damaged ones were, or if you do not have any planks to weave into the floor, you are going to need to sand the flooring.

The right sander for the job is one that is specifically made for flooring. These have a large sanding wheel and a heavy head so that you can sand large areas quickly and evenly. You will probably need to rent it from a hardware store or flooring company.

Use a coarse grit sanding wheel first (around 60-80 grit) and follow with a fine sander (100-150 grit or a fine sanding screen).

You should sand the edges of the room by hand because it can be hard to maneuver the flooring sander into the edges and impossible to reach the corners. Use a fine sandpaper between 100 and 150 grit. Sand with the woodgrain.

If at all possible, you should sand the entire surface for the hardwood floor, or at least the entire room with water damage.

Move the sander across the entire surface of the floor, overlapping a few inches on each stroke. If you do not get the water-damaged sections flat on the first pass, you can try a second pass.

Do not sand the floor too many times unless you are sure that your planks are very thick. Taking too much thickness off the floor will cause problems.

Note: Wear a mask or respirator when using a flooring scuff sander. These machines will kick up a lot of dust as they sand the finish and wood.

Step 4: Clean the Sanded Hardwood Flooring

Use a vacuum to remove all of the sawdust you created by sanding the floor. Follow the vacuuming up with a dry microfiber cloth or dust mop. This will get the fine dust off of the floor.

This process will also remove other dirt and make the stain adhere better to the wood.

It’s good to do this not just after the sanding is complete, but every five minutes while you sand. 

You can also vacuum the sander wheel to remove the dust. If it clogs up too much, it won’t sand evenly. 

Step 5: Stain the Sanded Wood Floor

Following the directions on the can, apply the desired color of stain to the hardwood floor. Try to select a stain that is specifically made for hardwood floors.

Note that most wood stains will put off some strong fumes. You need to wear a respirator if possible, or at least ventilate the room by opening windows and using fans (not directly as they will dry out your stain too fast and blow dust around).

Start by applying a thin, even coat of stain to a small area (less than 1 square meter). Brush the edges and corners first to make sure you don’t miss them. Use a clean rag to wipe up all the excess wood stain.

You will have permanent lines in the finished coat if you let the leading edge of your stain dry. Try to work quickly and don’t leave any edge to dry for more than 10 or 15 minutes. Apply the stain evenly across the whole room.

Note: Make sure to have an exit strategy when you start staining. You don’t want to step across a wet stain to get out of a corner. Work from the deepest corners of the room toward the door.

Step 6: Apply Polyurethane

A coat of polyurethane on top of the stain will protect the floor from scuffs and create a water-resistant barrier.

You can roll polyurethane onto the floor like paint after the stain is completely dry.

The key to applying polyurethane is that you need a very thin, even coat to create a nice-looking finish. Choosing the right roller will help.

Don’t use a regular fuzzy paint roller or you will leave a coat that’s way too thick. Use a dense foam roller for a smooth finish. Also, use a long handle for the roller so you can see better while you work.

Cut in the edges of the room with a good quality paintbrush first and then use the roller to complete the center of the room.

Give the refinished floor a day to dry before moving furniture back into it and you will have a fully improved hardwood floor!

Preventing Water Damage to Your Hardwood Flooring

It’s always easier and cheaper to take care of problems before they become problems. Take care to avoid wood floor water damage in the first place.

Here are some ideas to prevent water damage to your hardwood flooring:

  • Keep doors and windows closed when you are away from home and repair small leaks as soon as you notice them.
  • Hire only licensed contractors to work on your plumbing.
  • Be especially careful of rubber or plastic hoses on washing machines, dishwashers, and refrigerators tha.t can break over time.
  • Invest in shower curtains, shoe mats, and other items to keep daily water off your floor.
  • When you clean your floor, do not bring a big bucket of mop water where it can spill on your hardwood floor and mop only with a small amount of water.
  • Clean up all spills immediately.
  • Keep your house warm enough to avoid freezing temperatures that can burst a pipe.
buckled hardwood floors

Buckling is the term that’s used when one or more areas of a floor swell or lift upwards.

In some cases, the floor might have only one swollen area whereas, in others, the floor might appear to be wavy or undulating as the floorboards can arch upward several inches.

As you can imagine, the sight of a buckled wood floor can be pretty jarring. Let’s face it; this isn’t something that can be obscured by tossing a throw rug over it. A throw rug also won’t do much to resolve the problem or keep anyone from stumbling over it. Something needs to be done.

If buckling wood floors is a concern, read on to learn about causes, how to fix buckling in hardwood floors, and ways to prevent this situation.

What Causes Wood Floors to Buckle?

Water

Hardwood floors can react to moisture in various ways. Buckling is a very significant reaction. So it’s natural to assume that a significant event preceded it such as a flood or an event that caused prolonged contact with water.

Humidity

There’s a reason gymnasiums have wood floors, but locker rooms do not. Locker rooms can be extremely damp and humid. If you live in a tropical climate, or in a region that tends to be very muggy during the summer months especially, your hardwood floors are at greater risk for buckling.

Lack of or Incomplete Acclimation

Before a wood floor is installed it must be acclimated to its immediate environs. To do this, the floorboards are placed in the room where they’re to be installed, and allowed to remain for at least two weeks before installation takes place. This allows the wood to “breathe” or draw in the moisture in the air so that it can expand as necessary.

This doesn’t mean the floorboards should be acclimated to greenhouse types of conditions or that the floors’ intended substrate shouldn’t have a limited moisture content. The moisture content of the substrate should be monitored using a moisture reader. Ambient air temperature should always be in the 60℉ to 80° range.

Installation Failure

It is only in very rare instances that a professional flooring installer will overlook or forget to do something crucial to a successful installation. 

On the other hand, laypersons are more likely to fail to appreciate critical steps when installing hardwood floors on their own. Overenthusiasm and assumption can play major roles as these can lead to failure to allow for long enough periods of acclimation and failure to leave enough room for their new hardwood floor to expand.

Another reason for buckling hardwood floors is the failure to install a moisture barrier between the substrate and the new floor itself. If a moisture meter wasn’t used prior to installation or the readings were ignored, the resulting lack of protection that a moisture membrane would have provided can cause trouble in the long run.

If you suspect installation failure has caused your hardwood floor to buckle, you’ll need to call your flooring installer right away.

Can You Repair Buckled Wood Floors?

On the other hand, if you and your flooring installer happen to be one and the same, you’ll need to look for ways to remedy the situation. If your wood floor hasn’t buckled too severely, there might be something you can try, but there’s no point in it until you do the following:

Identify The Source

warped hardwood floors

Firstly, it’s important to keep in mind that your hardwood wood floor has warped.

In most cases, the cause of a warped hardwood floor is moisture. So naturally, you’ll need to take measures to locate the culprit.

However, for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Buckling is an extreme reaction. Such a reaction usually indicates that your hardwood floor has been directly exposed to more than mere moisture. Think!

The floor might have been underwater? BINGO!

A flood would certainly account for an extreme reaction.

But if your hardwood floor is no longer submerged for whatever reason (e.g., after being somehow roped into it yet again, while shopping for groceries with your mother, you were so thoroughly captivated by the dulcet tones of her delightful litany concerning the high price of produce, her bursitis, and her last husband, that you remembered you’d left the water running in the tub), then we can assume that the source is no longer an issue, 

However (there’s always a “however”!), because your floor can be directly exposed to water without you being aware of it, it’s time to bring your awareness up to date.

Assuming you don’t hear squishing sounds when you walk on your hardwood floor, you’ll need to look for other telltale signs of moisture.

Telltale Signs of Moisture That Can Cause Your Wood Floor to Buckle

Start by inspecting your walls. You’ll need to inspect your home’s interior and exterior walls. Look for walls that are:

  • Swollen
  • Mossy, moldy or mildewed
  • Bubbled or peeling
  • Water stained
  • Water Streaked
  • Seeping
  • Water, water, water…

These characteristics can be caused by

  • An improperly sealed window or door
  • A leaking pipe or condensation
  • A leaking faucet
  • An exposed sill plate.

A sill plate, also known as a sill, framing sill, or sill piece, is a piece of lumber usually a 2”x4”, that sits atop the length of a structure’s founding walls or footings of a structure. If your home’s foundation is made from poured concrete, a sill plate rests horizontally on top of the foundation and flush along the length of the foundation’s outer edges.

If you have no trouble locating part of your home’s sill plate, then it’s exposed to the elements. An exposed sill plate that’s soggy, swollen, water-stained, or rotting indicates that it is saturated or has been saturated at some point. A saturated sill plate is a potential troublemaker. 

  • A cable (Yes, a cable!)

If you have cable television service, satellite internet service, a low voltage security system, wired security cameras mounted on your home’s exterior walls, or anything that calls for a cable to pass through an exterior wall to some type of terminal inside, then the cable should first be looped before it’s fed into the exterior wall.

To prevent water from traveling along the part of the cable that runs past the exterior wall, this “drip loop” should be lower than the cable’s entry point. A cable that isn’t drip looped or isn’t properly looped can cause water damage.

This might not seem like a big deal, but in climates where there is heavy annual rainfall, the damage that can be caused by water that’s allowed to travel along a cable can become increasingly significant with each drenching.

Put The Cause of Your Buckled Wood Floors in Check

Once you’ve located the source of what’s causing your hardwood floor to buckle, it’s time to eliminate it. This will also help to stabilize your home’s humidity and moisture levels.

Until then, any effort to fix your buckled hardwood floor is likely to be wasted. 

How To Fix a Buckled Wood Floor

If your hardwood floors haven’t buckled too severely, your hardwood floor might right itself as it dries. You can also use a floor dryer to speed up the process. These are usually available for rent at your local home improvement center or you can buy one for under $60.

You can also help to straighten your hardwood floors by placing some weight on them as they dry. Just be sure to start with something light and continue to add weight a little at a time as the pressure helps the boards settle back into place.

If neither of these solutions does the trick, you’ll need to remove and replace the warped floorboards. You can use boards that were saved when your floors were initially installed. Because ten percent is added to the measurement of the planned installation area, there might be enough extra boards to complete the repair. 

If not, you’ll need to buy additional boards at your local home improvement center or flooring specialty store. Be careful to match the wood species and color. If the color of the existing and spare floorboards can’t be matched exactly, it’s best to choose a lighter color so that you can stain them darker to match and blend with the rest. 

buckling in wood floors

Instructions for Replacing Buckled Hardwood Floorboards 

Although the following instructions represent the simplest way to replace warped floorboards, an intermediate skill level is called for. While working outside your comfort zone is always a good way to expand your skillset, be sure to ask for help from a professional if you’re not confident in your skill level. These instructions apply to nailed or glued floors. Repairs to tongue and groove planks call for a more advanced skill level.  

In addition to the floorboards, you’ll need to have these items on hand: 

To replace buckled hardwood floorboards, follow the steps listed below:

  • Use the straightedge and chalk to draw two parallel lines along the length of the plank, about ½” inside the edge. 
  • Set the circular saw to the depth of the floorboard only. 
  • With the circular saw, cut along the chalk lines. 
  • Cut diagonally to form an ‘x’ between the parallel lines. 
  • Beginning at the center of the ‘x’, tap the chisel with your mallet to remove the floorboard piece by piece. 
  • Continue in this way to remove any old glue. Note: Do not attempt to sand the glue. Some older adhesives were manufactured with asbestos which becomes powerfully carcinogenic when sanded or ground. 
  • Uset your pry bar to remove rusted, loose, or protruding nails. 
  • Collect loosened debris with the whisk broom. 
  • Vacuum the area. It’s essential to keep your work area completely free of dust and debris. 
  • If you notice any sign of moisture, aim an electric fan or floor dryer at the affected area until it’s completely dry. 
  • Fit the new floorboard to the exact dimensions of the empty space. 
  • Nail or glue the replacement board (as appropriate) into place.  

Note for nailed or glued wood floors: If the empty space is surrounded by other boards, this final piece will need to be glued in place. 

  • Use weights to hold the glued board flush and firmly in place. 
  • With a water dampened towel, wipe up any excess glue as quickly as possible. Dried floor glue is difficult to remove and will require a different process. 
  • Allow the glued board(a) to set according to the adhesive/floor glue manufacturer’s recommendations. Two hours are usually necessary before removing the weights. 

If you’ve concluded that a moisture barrier might have prevented the source of the damage from having such a pronounced effect, you probably shouldn’t attempt to fix your buckled wood floor on your own. This is a time-consuming and often tricky process that’s best undertaken by an expert. 

Speaking of prevention…

How to Prevent Your Wood Floor from Buckling

It truly is as your mother (the person you can hardly wait to go grocery shopping with) always says. An ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure. So, it’s important to be sure not to allow your hardwood floor to be in prolonged or repeated contact with moisture. 

  • Be sure to clean water spills as soon as possible
  • Elevate potted plants
  • Don’t allow wet towels, boots, or shoes on your hardwood floor
  • Keep a rug or doormat outside of exterior doors
  • Keep your home well ventilated to prevent high levels of humidity
  • Refresh the seal. If your floors have a wax seal, this should be done annually. For floors with a polyurethane seal, this should be done every few years
  • Conduct routine inspections as above for leaks and/or excess moisture

Also, be on the lookout for changes as they might not be terribly obvious at first. 

Warning Signs of Buckling Hardwood Floor

A buckled hardwood floor doesn’t necessarily happen overnight. 

In fact, in cases where the buckling isn’t the result of an extreme event, there were probably warning signs that presented themselves on some level or in some way. These signs might be small, but they are clarion calls nevertheless. 

  • Clouding, White Stains: A floor or an area of a floor that appears cloudy or hazy. The appearance is distinctly different from the hazy effect of abrasion.  
  • Dark or Black Stains: Water or moisture that’s underneath the floor or has penetrated the surface can cause this type of stain. You can learn more about this specific issue in our article on removing black stains on hardwood floors.
  • Rust Stains: These usually form at the edges of individual floorboards that have been fastened with nails.
  • Cupping: This is the term for individual floorboards that lift at the sides. The effect is a U-shaped board. Cupping can happen to a single board or entire sections of boards. Learn more about this topic in our guide on hardwood floor cupping.
  • Crowning: A floor that’s crowned will have one or more “humps” in it. 
  • Lifting: As the term suggests, the floorboards lift at the ends.

All these things are evidence of damage from moisture. If the source is eliminated before the damage becomes profound, cupping, crowning, and lifting can resolve themselves. 

However, instead of waiting for these warnings to become more prominent, proactive measures should be taken to ensure the earliest possible intervention. The following items are vital components of such an effort. 

  • Moisture Tester: Klein Tools makes a very decent one that sells for under $40.  In addition to moisture reading of concrete to let you know if installation of a water barrier membrane is called for, you can also use this device to read the moisture content of wood, drywall, and masonry. So, it’s perfect for detecting leaks as well. For the price, you really can’t do much better.
  • Humidity Monitor: For under $20, you can buy a pair of these to alert your phone when the readings are outside of the range you preset by using the app that comes with it. These hygrometers display the temperature as well. Very cool.

The total cost of the three items, above, comes to around $200. Hence, the cost to prevent buckled hardwood flooring amounts to a tiny fraction of the cost to replace it. Prevention also saves a lot of hassle and headache.                        

While it might seem like investing in hardwood floors represents a lot of work, in reality, they’re no more difficult to maintain than any other type of flooring. The difference is that hardwood floors never go out of style and with proper care, yours can last a lifetime. 

For any homeowner, mold is one of the scariest household problems you can find. Unfortunately, it can grow easily with just a little moisture, organic material, and time. Hardwood flooring is one material that is prone to mold growth, especially in a bathroom or kitchen where water is present.

Mold can be extremely dangerous to people. For that reason, large mold problems require professional removal. If you discover mold that covers a large area or appears to be growing on studs, subfloor, or other structural elements of your home, call a professional.

If you just have a little mold on the surface, such as from a short-term leak or spill, you can go ahead and correct it yourself by following this guide. Protect yourself with the necessary gloves and a breathing mask.

After you remove the mold on your hardwood floors, you should always make sure to fix whatever allowed the mold to grow. Clean the area more often and fix any areas where water regularly leaks or pools.

Is Mold on Hardwood Floors Dangerous?

Not all types of mold are dangerous, but some definitely can be. Black mold can weaken neurological function and cause serious damage to the heart and lungs. Eventually, this can lead to death. 

Mold can get into your lungs over time if you do not clean it up or quickly if you disturb the mold without a protective mask.

If conditions are wet enough, the mold can also eat into the walls and subfloor, weakening the structure of your house.

For these reasons, you need to protect yourself by cleaning bathrooms, kitchens, and other “wet” areas of your home regularly and checking plumbing occasionally for leaks or other mold-growing problems.

If you have discovered mold on your hardwood floors, make sure not to walk on or touch the mold in any way. This will disturb the mold and release it into the air.

Leave the moldy area alone until you are prepared with a certified mask (such as an N-95) or a filtered respirator. You should also wear disposable gloves when you remove the mold and throw the gloves away when you are done.

Signs of Mold Under a Hardwood Floor

If your wood floor has just a little mold growing on top, you can clean it and keep using it. But if the mold has penetrated deep into the flooring and subflooring, you have a much bigger problem on your hands.

First, inspect the wood for serious warping. If there are larger-than-usual gaps between planks or if the boards are curling up at the edges (cupping), you have significant water damage.

You can find out how deep the mold goes by checking to see if the wood is still solid. Take a flat screwdriver and try to press it into a board in the moldy area. 

If you can’t press the screwdriver into the wood, it is probably still dry and clean below the surface. But if the wood is soft like a sponge and you can push the screwdriver deep into it, the wood is bad. Water and mold have penetrated deep into the floor.

If your floor fails the screwdriver test, you should call a flooring or cleanup professional to evaluate the leak and see how deep the moisture has spread.

Deep seeping moisture with mold will probably require that you completely replace the flooring in the area, and it may even be necessary to replace the subfloor materials.

How to Remove Mold on Hardwood Floors

Tools and Materials You Will Need

  • Disposable rags, sponges, or paper towels
  • Rubber gloves
  • An N-95 mask or another filtering mask (not just a simple cloth or surgical mask)
  • Water and a spray bottle
  • Dish soap
  • Bleach (optional)
  • Vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter (optional)

Step 1: Personal Mold Safety

At all times when cleaning mold, wear a filtering mask and gloves. Do not touch the mold or moldy materials with your skin. The spores may be too small for you to see and can make you sick or spread to other areas.

Throw away any gloves, paper towels, or rags that you use to touch the mold. Do not wash and reuse them. You should only need one or two rags to remove a small spot of mold.

Bring a garbage can near the spot you are cleaning so you do not have to carry your used rags through the house.

Ventilate the area without making it too windy. Open windows in the room and place a fan nearby — just don’t point the fan directly at the moldy area because it will blow mold spores around the room. When you are cleaning the mold, you can use the fan to blow the room out.

Always wash your hands with soap and hot water after working near mold.

Step 2: Use Soap and Water to Remove the Mold

Mix up a solution of dish soap and hot water. Rather than using a huge bucket that could spill on the hardwood floor, mix it in a spray bottle. This will work better for cleaning the mold anyway.

Dish soap will not kill the mold, but it is a good first step because it can remove most of the mold and cannot damage the finish on your hardwood floor.

Spray the dish soap solution on the moldy area until it is covered. Let it sit for 1 minute and wipe it off with a rag. Press down firmly and try to wipe up all of the mold in one swipe.

Dispose of the rag with mold on it immediately. Repeat if necessary.

Step 3: Kill Mold With Bleach (optional)

Bleach has a powerful sanitizing ability and can kill mold in just a few minutes. However, it has some dangers:

  1. Bleach puts off harsh fumes, so you need good ventilation in the room
  2. Bleach can only kill the mold on the surface of the wood, not what is growing below
  3. Bleach can damage the finish on your hardwood floor

Because of these risks, you might want to avoid using bleach on your floor. It depends on the finish you have on your floor and how deep the mold appears to be growing. You can test an inconspicuous spot to see if it hurts your floor’s finish.

If you decide to use bleach, water it down in a spray bottle. Use only 1 part bleach to 10 parts water (you can also use a bleach-based cleaner such as Clorox spray – just read the bottle to see if it is safe for hardwood floors).

Spray the bleach to completely cover the mold. It will start killing the mold on contact, so you do not need to let it sit for long.

Leave the bleach on the mold for no more than 5 minutes (you can wipe it off instantly if you are worried about your hardwood floor’s finish). Swipe it up with a rag and throw it away.

Note: You may have read that white vinegar can also kill mold. Some people prefer vinegar because it is natural — but vinegar is bad for hardwood floors. Vinegar takes 60 minutes to kill mold, which is way too long to leave liquid sitting on hardwood floors. It can damage the finish and seep into the wood, causing bigger problems. Skip the vinegar for your hardwood floor and use a bleach solution that kills mold faster.

Step 4: Clean Up

Dry any spills you may have made while cleaning. Throw away any rags or paper towels that touched the mold. Take out the trash.

If you have a vacuum cleaner that is equipped with a HEPA filter, you can vacuum the room to remove any mold spores.

A regular vacuum filter will not catch the spores but rather spread them around the room. So, if you don’t have a HEPA vacuum, just mop the floor with a mild cleaning solution.

Throw away the gloves and mask you wore while cleaning and wash your hands thoroughly with soap.

Preventing Mold on Hardwood Floors

The two best ways to prevent mold are to clean regularly and to keep moisture from getting to the wood in your house.

Wood floors should be mopped with a light cleaning solution designed for hardwood. This can help to remove the first mold cells before they grow and eat into the hardwood floor.

Make sure to wring the mop out so you do not put too much water on the wood. It’s a good idea to dry the floor with a microfiber mop afterward.

Mopping every few weeks will go a long way to prevent mold growth.

There are several things you can do to keep moisture low on your hardwood floors:

  • Always dry up spills or excess mop water right away
  • Inspect plumbing occasionally and fix any leaks
  • Also inspect windows and doors and repair leaky seals
  • Control splashing in common areas with rugs, a shower curtain, etc.
  • Seal crawl spaces and sump pump basins that can humidify your house

Any large amount of water can cause mold. Even small amounts of moisture can let mold grow if the area is frequently wet. You can buy a wood moisture sensor if you are concerned about humidity affecting the wood in your house. This machine will give you a percentage of moisture content for the wood to show whether you are in danger of growing mold.

In terms of interior decor, hardwood floors have long been considered ideal for bestowing an ambiance of sophistication, or rustic appeal on homes, schools, or workspaces.

However, they also have very specific maintenance requirements such as waxing. This procedure is ideal for finished and unfinished hardwood floors and can restore their natural sheen. Waxing hardwood surfaces can also enhance their longevity and also protect them from getting stained frequently.

However, over time, the wax used tends to build up. When this happens, your floor will no longer display a smooth polished appearance making it necessary for the excess wax to be removed.

This article takes a close look at this issue and how to resolve it. We discuss how to remove wax buildup from hardwood floors, the best products for doing so, and what products you must avoid.

Why Should You Remove Wax Buildup on Wood Floors?

1. The Accumulation of Trapped Dirt and Blurriness

As wax accumulates, the use of indoor heaters can melt it and cause debris such as hair, pet fur, or dirt to sink into it. It can also result in scuff marks being made in it as well.

Wax buildup will make your floors look blurred and cloudy in addition to trapping particles.

2. The Presence of Scratches

Over time, your hardwood floor will get scratched, either by your pets or simply by grit that clings to the soles of feet, stockings, and footwear. To refinish it, you will need to get rid of the overlying layer of accumulated wax covering it.

3. Slight Water Damage

Occasionally, water damage may cause a whitish discoloration on certain parts of your floor. This is caused by the moisture penetrating the wax and part of the process of remedying the damage will involve removing any wax on the floor.

Checking for Wax Buildup

If you have noticed any stains, scratches, or even general dullness on your floor or simply wish to refinish it, you will need to find out if there is a layer of wax you need to get rid of first.

You can do so by using the following:

  • Sandpaper: Lightly pass sandpaper across the floor. If there is any wax present, it will ball up.
  • Mineral Spirits: Apply a small amount (no more than a few drops) of mineral spirits to a cloth. Next, wipe the floor with it. The presence of a brownish, yellowish, or even whitish smear means that there is wax on your floor.
  • Water: Simply place a drop of water on your floor and wait for a minute. The appearance of a white spot beneath the drop within that timeframe will indicate the presence of wax.

The Best Wood Floor Wax Removers 

Mineral Spirits

Also referred to as turpentine substitute, and white spirit, this petroleum-derived solvent is cheap, mild smelling, and low in VOCs (volatile organic compounds). It is also capable of dissolving the wax on your floor enabling you to remove it from the surface completely.

Although mineral spirits may affect certain surfaces adversely, it does not do so to wood and is therefore suitable for hardwood floors as a result. However, the solvent is unsuitable for no-wax surfaces since it will strip them of their gleaming finish, leaving them with a matte, dull appearance.

It is also flammable and should be handled with caution.

Sunnyside Corporation’s Mineral Spirits is an excellent example of mineral spirits which can be used for this purpose. This particular product has been produced by the Sunnyside brand which has been manufacturing potent solvents for over a century.

In addition to being low odor and suitable for use on wooden floors, it is also ideal for cleaning paint brushes, rollers and sprayers, and degreasing mechanical components.

Products Which Are Unsuitable for Removing Wax Buildup

  • Acetone: A colorless, flammable, and volatile fluid, acetone is also known to be a highly effective solvent. It is capable of dissolving grease and is also capable of stripping wax from hardwood floors. However, acetone is unsuitable for this purpose because it may not only damage the finish of your floors but will also discolor the wood as well.
  • Commercial Wax Removers: Special care must be taken when selecting products in this category since the wrong choice can turn out to be particularly harsh on your hardwood surfaces. As a result, you will need to ensure that the product you select has specifically been manufactured for hardwood floors and is approved by your manufacturer. 
  • Homemade Ammonia/Vinegar Solutions: Hot water solutions of ammonia and vinegar are highly popular homemade remedies for stripping floor wax. And while they may be efficient, it is worth noting that the extensive exposure of your floor to hot water will place it at risk of water damage. 

How to Remove Wax Buildup on Hardwood Floors

Things You’ll Need

  • A soft-bristled brush
  • Absorbent cloths
  • Mineral spirits
  • Steel wool
  • Rubber gloves
  • A face mask
  • Knee pads

1. Prepare the Room

Empty the room of all furniture and open every window and door. Using a soft-bristled brush or broom, sweep the floor clean of dust and debris.

2. Remove the Surplus Wax

This process is especially time-consuming and effort-intensive. You will need to apply the mineral spirits to the floor using a spray bottle and scrub it with the steel wool.

If your floor comes with bevels, you will also need to scrape them manually to get rid of the wax in the crevices.

As the wax is loosened you will need to wipe it off the surface and taking another cloth, wipe the floor clean.

3. Clean Any Left Over Residue 

Once you have finished cleaning each section, you will need to clean the floor with an additional application of mineral spirits to new clean cloths. This last step will ensure that no wax residue has been left behind.

Certain experts recommend carrying out this step twice. To ensure you have been thorough in removing all the wax, simply apply mineral spirits to another clean cloth and go over the section you have cleaned. 

The absence of any residue on the cloth will mean that every trace of wax has been removed. However, the presence of any coloration as noted above will mean that you will need to go over that part of the surface with a cloth and mineral spirits, once more.

What You Can Do Following Wax Buildup Removal 

Now, you know how to remove wax from hardwood floors. But what else will you be able to do following the procedure?

1. Apply a Fresh Coat of Wax

To protect your hardwood flooring from stains and conceal slight blemishes, you will have the option of applying a fresh coat of paste or liquid wax. You can take a look at our article on how to wax hardwood floors – it covers the procedure in detail and looks at the best products for your hardwood floors.

waxing hardwood floors

2. Repair Slight Water Damage

If you intend to get rid of white spots on your floor caused by water as referenced above, you will need to sand the affected area once you have removed the wax, and then wipe it repeatedly with an oxalic acid crystal solution until the stain is eliminated. Once you have done so you will be able to stain or seal it before refinishing it.

3. Eliminate Scratches and Scarring.

If your hardwood floor happens to be excessively damaged by scratches or scarring, you will be able to sand it. And once you are through you will be able to apply a brand new finish of your choice, restoring your floor’s original classic appeal.