Tag Archive for: Vinyl floor laying

vinyl floor and underfloor heating – a combination that is becoming increasingly popular. Nevertheless, it is a topic that always raises questions. In this article you can find out which vinyl flooring is suitable for underfloor heating systems and what you should bear in mind when laying , so that you can benefit from the advantages of your vinyl floor on underfloor heating in the long term.

A wide range of applications, attractive appearance, easy installation, resistant material properties and much more – the advantages of a vinyl floor are obvious.

Underfloor heating also impresses with numerous advantages such as cost-effectiveness, cleanliness and environmental friendliness.

In single and multi-family houses, the proportion of underfloor heating as a heating system is now just under 50 percent.

It is therefore not surprising that the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is also becoming increasingly popular.

That’s all that matters:

Criteria for vinyl flooring on underfloor heating

While there was a lot of discussion about the suitability of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating in the past, the combination has now proven itself through predominantly positive experiences.

In principle, there is absolutely no objection to the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating, provided that certain conditions are taken into account in advance:

Exact Temperature

The most decisive criterion for laying vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is whether the chosen heating system ensures reliable temperature control.

Unlike other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet or tiles, a vinyl floor reacts primarily to heat.

If the temperature rises, the material expands strongly, the heat decreases, it tightens again.

Strong temperature fluctuations or too fast temperature rises can lead to unsightly joint formation or permanent damage to the vinyl floor.

Therefore, it is important that the underfloor heating does not heat the vinyl floor too much or too quickly.

The maximum surface temperature of vinyl floor heating should not exceed 27° C.

Hot water underfloor heating vs. electric underfloor heating

The classic version of hot water underfloor heating generates heat by flowing warm water through plastic or copper pipes.

What is often seen as a disadvantage has a positive effect for vinyl floors:

The sluggish lead time of a hot water underfloor heating ensures a slow heating of the vinyl floor and thus protects the material.

In addition, the temperature in the pipes remains relatively constant between 26 and 28° C throughout the heating period.

The flow temperature – i.e. the temperature at which the water circulates through the pipes – has no influence on the vinyl floor and can therefore be quite higher.

Especially with modern low-temperature underfloor heating systems, the surface temperature can be precisely regulated by built-in thermostats.

It should be noted, however, that the installation of a hot water underfloor heating system involves relatively high effort and a certain height must be maintained for the final floor ingesis. Especially in the case of renovation work on existing buildings, the building conditions must therefore be carefully checked in advance.

Otherwise, however, hot water underfloor heating must be used without hesitation for vinyl floors.

Caution is required with electric floor heating systems.

In this variant, the heat is generated by the combination of current and voltage, which leads to a significantly faster and sometimes higher temperature increase than with hot water underfloor heating.

Although modern models also have the necessary technical requirements for temperature control, the installation of vinyl flooring on electric underfloor heating systems has not been recommended before.

Expert Heating installation

In general, the installation of underfloor heating under a vinyl floor exclusively should be carried out by a specialist.

This ensures that the substrate is prepared professionally and that any moisture in the screed has been sufficiently baked out before laying the vinyl floor.

In addition, not only must the construction height on the entire floor area be precise, but also the pipes of the underfloor heating must be installed in such a way that a uniform distribution of heat on the vinyl floor is guaranteed. Even spot heat nests can cause damage to the vinyl floor.

Special Footfall sound insulation

To ensure that the heat from the underfloor heating is ultimately transferred to the surface of the vinyl floor in an energy-efficient manner, the lowest possible thermal resistance of maximum 0.15 m2K/W is required.

In addition to the thickness of the floor and the thermal conductivity of the material, the impact sound insulation or vapour barrier used also affects this value.

For underfloor heating systems on which a vinyl floor is to be laid, special footfall sound insulation is available.

The quartz sand most contained in it stores heat and releases it to the room.

Other insulating materials such as polystyrene, cork or foam, on the other hand, prevent the heat from spreading and are therefore unsuitable for use with vinyl floors on underfloor heating .

Contrary to its previous reputation, vinyl floors achieve excellent results in terms of energy efficiency and heat performance.

Due to the low heat transfer resistance and the good thermal conductivity, rooms with vinyl flooring can be effectively heated by underfloor heating.

Which vinyl floor is designed for installation on Underfloor heating suitable?

If an adequate underfloor heating system has been found and the necessary preparations have been made, the crucial question arises as to the right vinyl flooring.

All vinyl floors suitable for installation on underfloor heating systems are specially marked.

If a vinyl floor does not have a corresponding label, a written confirmation of suitability for underfloor heating from the vinyl floor manufacturer should be obtained prior to installation.

The extent to which a vinyl floor is suitable for use on underfloor heating also depends on the design and the type of installation.

Basically, a distinction is made between vinyl on HDF carrier plates and solid or full vinyl.

Vinyl on HDF is similar to laminate and is floating using a click system. There are also click systems that are made entirely of vinyl.

The thinner full vinyl, on the other hand, consists of homogeneous planks and is only glued to the screed on a full surface.

Types of laying from vinyl flooring to underfloor heating

Basically, all types of laying work to install a vinyl floor on hot water underfloor heating systems.

However, there are differences in energy efficiency, albeit mostly minor.

Solid or full vinyl flooring, which is glued to the surface, is best suited for installation on underfloor heating.

The direct connection between the vinyl floor and the substrate using suitable adhesives and the relatively low material thickness of maximum 5 – 6 mm ensure optimum thermal conductivity.

But also the floating laying of vinyl floors on underfloor heating is possible.

However, in this type of laying, in contrast to the fully bonded installation, a thin air layer forms between the substrate and the vinyl floor, which impairs the thermal conductivity.

In addition, in the case of floating vinyl floors on underfloor heating, a footfall sound insulation is necessary, which additionally affects the heat transmission resistance.

Vinyl floors on HDF substrates, which are usually much thicker than solid vinyl floors, are particularly suitable for installation on underfloor heating less optimal.

In addition to the impact sound insulation, which is already integrated in many vinyl floorboards, an additional vapour barrier is also required for mineral substrates (e.g. cement screed or anhydrite screed) so that rising damp cannot damage the substrate material of the vinyl floor.

In any case, when laying vinyl flooring over underfloor heating, it is essential to follow the manufacturer’s specifications and installation instructions. You will also need a orderly vinyl cutter to place clean cuts.

Laying vinyl floor on tiles with underfloor heating

Often a vinyl floor is also laid on existing tiles, under which there is already underfloor heating.

This also applies in this case:

Even if it is basically possible to lay a floating (click) vinyl floor, it is recommended to use a fully glued full vinyl floor to prevent heat loss.

Is a vinyl floor on underfloor heating Harmful?

A question that until a few years ago was quite justified:

Vinyl floors used to contain harmful plasticizers, which developed toxic fumes when heated, for example by underfloor heating.

Today, however, vinyl floors in Europe are subject to strict conditions, which ensure that the use of harmful phthalates is dispensed with.

Therefore, unless an old vinyl floor is used, the laying of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating has no negative health effects.

Contact adhesive for fixing vinyl floors to the wall

Gluing a vinyl floor to the wall is a novel and increasingly popular alternative in interior design.

This article explains what is important when installing vinyl floors on the wall.

Until now, vinyl was primarily known and proven for laying on floors.

But modern vinyl floors can also be attached to the wall.

Due to the advantageous material properties and the limitless selection of different decors, they open up a wide range of possibilities in the design of the room. However, in order to achieve a lastingly beautiful result, there are some important aspects to consider.

Which vinyl floor can be mounted on the wall?

As the demand for vinyl floors for the wall has risen sharply in recent years, the vinyl flooring market has responded.

Since the world’s leading trade fair Domotex 2018, more and more manufacturers have been offering vinyl floors that are also specially designed for the design of walls.

These products, marketed under the term Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT for short), are a cost-effective and user-friendly alternative to laminate and parquet, but especially to ceramic tiles.

Vinyl floors are generally available in two versions:

  • as solid or solid vinyl
  • or as a ready-made vinyl with click system on HDF carriers.

In principle, all vinyl floors can be attached to the wall.

Also those that are actually intended for conventional use as flooring. However, there are differences in the preparation of the substrate and in the assembly.

Glue full vinyl floor to the wall

The material of full vinyl floors is much thinner than vinyl on HDF.

If a full vinyl floor is to be fixed to the wall, the substrate must therefore be completely flat and smooth.

Otherwise, bumps would penetrate the wall, resulting in unsightly dents in the vinyl floor.

However, the thinner material also has advantages: it is easy to process and easily cut against the wall with a sharp knife.

A full vinyl floor is usually mounted in planks that are attached to the wall.

In order to ensure long-term durability, the full-surface bonding with a suitable adhesive is most suitable.

The use of a double-sided adhesive tape or the attachment of the vinyl floor to the wall with nails is not recommended.

Joints and transitions can be filled and sealed with silicone. This also makes the vinyl floor on the wall water resistant, making it suitable for use in bathrooms.

Fixing click vinyl floor ingtotheis on the wall

Unlike full vinyl floors, click vinyl floors forgivable minor bumps in the underground due to their higher strength.

If a click vinyl floor is to be attached to the wall, it is therefore not absolutely necessary to spat it absolutely smoothly beforehand – dry and even the substrate must still be.

The assembly of click vinyl floors requires some practice:

The boards can be connected relatively easily by the click system, but still have to be attached to the wall with a suitable adhesive at the same time.

It is best to glue the click vinyl floor from bottom to top on the wall so that the boards can support each other.

In addition, the expansion and shrinkage behaviour of the Click vinyl floor must be taken into account:

In the edge area, so-called expansion joints must be released so that the material can work accordingly.

These joints play a crucial role, especially in click vinyl floors on HDF carriers, as otherwise unsightly joint or dent formation can occur during moisture or heat exposure due to e.g. solar exposure.

Is a vinyl floor on the wall also possible in the bathroom?

A major advantage of vinyl flooring on the wall is that it is water-resistant and can be applied to almost any existing substrate.

Accordingly, it is particularly popular with the renovation of bathrooms, because the elaborate, noise- and dirt-causing removal of existing tiles can be dispensed with.

When selecting the vinyl floor for the wall, care must be taken to ensure that it is specifically approved for use in wet rooms.

In addition, it must be ensured that the substrate is sealed against water and moisture.

However, this should already be the case with existing tiles on the wall, so that a new sealing is not required. With fully glued vinyl flooring on the wall, the joints can be easily sealed with silicone.

For click vinyl floors, the groove and spring provide waterproof joints, but expansion joints must remain in the edge area.

Suitable vinyl floors are basically water-resistant, so that neither splash water nor prolonged water exposure damage the surface.

Appropriate sealing of the substrate also prevents mold formation under the vinyl floor on the wall due to penetrating moisture.

With what glue can the vinyl floor on the wall be fastened?

In order to glue vinyl flooring to the wall, it is recommended to use contact adhesive, which is applied to the substrate and vinyl floor. Contact adhesives are easy and safe to use – both planks made of full vinyl and click vinyl planks adhere immediately to the substrate and cannot slip.

As an alternative to the contact adhesive, special polymer adhesives can also be used.

Regardless of the product, the adhesive must in any case match the weight and thickness of the vinyl floor on the wall – and the adhesive strength must not be caused by evaporating ingredients such as water or solvents.

In wet rooms, the vinyl floor should only be attached to the wall on a polymer-based basis, as these can also be water exposure ensure long-lasting durability. From self-adhesive Vinyl floors on the wall are generally discouraged in the bathroom because the dry adhesive is not geared to this.

Regardless of which adhesive is used, make sure that the wall is dry, clean and level before the vinyl floor can be fixed to the wall.

vinyl flooring is known for its simple installation. However, in order for it to be optimally adapted to the spatial conditions, it is often necessary to cut the vinyl floor. How to cut the vinyl floor quickly and exactly and what is important for a vinyl cutter, you can find out here.

Bestseller in the category vinyl cutters:

Vinyl flooring is not only available in different decors and finishes, vinyl floorboards or planks are also available in different dimensions.

Nevertheless, it is hardly possible to lay a new vinyl floor without adapting it there or there.

Room dimensions, corners or cut-outs for heating pipes require the vinyl floor to be cut to size accordingly.

How can vinyl flooring be cut?

Most vinyl floors can generally be cut with little effort – even without special tools.

Regardless of whether it is a solid or solid vinyl floor with a relatively low material thickness between 2 mm and 5 mm or a click vinyl floor on HDF carriers with a thickness of approx. 6 mm to 10 mm.

Cut solid or solid vinyl flooring

A simple, sharp cutter knife, a pen and a cutting rail or an angle are sufficient to cut a vinyl floor made of full vinyl.

Cut vinyl floor with the cutter knife

For this purpose, the cutting edge is simply marked with a pen and the surface of the vinyl floor is cut with the cutter.

The rail ensures that both the marking and the cut are made straight and at the right angle.

With correspondingly low material thickness and a little force, a cut is usually sufficient to cut the vinyl floor exactly.

Click vinyl floor cutting

Even click vinyl floors can be cut quickly and precisely with a commercially available cutter or carpet knife – even vinyl floors with HDF carrier plates or cork.

After the interface has been marked with a pen and an angle or rail, the surface of the vinyl floor is easily carved with the knife.

If the ends of the vinyl floor plank are then pressed down – preferably at a table edge or above the knee – the click vinyl breaks at the set point and a clean edge is created.

For short fringe pieces, which can no longer be broken well by hand, it helps to bend the short side with the help of pliers.

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Vinyl floor sawing

If you are not so comfortable with the cutter, you can also saw the vinyl floor in most cases.

A crosscut saw is just as suitable for straight cuts as a jigsaw.

A jigsaw can also be used to cut corners from a vinyl floor, as is required for laying on doors.

Vinyl floor sawing

Likewise, to cut holes for pipes or to set non-straight or round cuts.

However, the use of a saw is not necessary: corners, holes and curves can be cut just as well with the cutter.

Vinyl cutter – the comfortable alternative

It is even easier to customize vinyl floors with a vinyl cutter.

The practical, versatile devices, also known as laminate cutters, ensure exact cuts in no time at all, thus saving time and making work much easier.

Vinyl cutters are suitable for both adhesive vinyl and click vinyl and can cut thick and thin vinyl floors with a material thickness of 2 mm to 11 mm depending on the model.

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Straight cuts are just as possible as angle cuts – most devices also have additional functions to be able to cut skirting boards or corners, for example.

Only cut-outs – such as for heating pipes – are not possible with a vinyl cutter not possible.

In principle, vinyl cutters in two versions Differences:

Manual vinyl cutters

In the case of manual vinyl cutters, the vinyl floor is cut by a blade, which is operated with a lever.

Depending on the model and the thickness of the panel, the vinyl floor can be cut precisely and without material wear by lever action with more or less effort.

Non-slip rubber feet ensure a secure grip of the device, and one hand is always free to fix the vinyl floor element in addition – moving or slipping the cutting edge is therefore virtually impossible.

Another advantage of manual vinyl cutters is that they can be operated wirelessly. They do not require power supply, can therefore be used on the go and do not cause noise or dirt.

Electric vinyl cutters

As an alternative to manual vinyl cutters, there are electric models.

These are equipped with a motor to cut the vinyl floor.

An electric vinyl cutter is especially recommended if physical exertion is to be avoided as far as possible or if large areas of vinyl flooring are to be laid in the shortest possible time.

However, the appropriate power supply must be guaranteed for motor-powered vinyl cutters – in addition, higher noise and dust generation is also created.

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Vinyl cutters at a glance

Vinyl cutters are available in a wide variety of designs from a wide range of manufacturers – from the practical basic model for do-it-yourselfers to the comprehensive all-in-one device for professional use.

The models differ on the one hand naturally in price, but on the other hand also in their technical characteristics, equipment and functions.

What to look for in a vinyl cutter

The wide range of different vinyl cutters makes the decision is often not easy. However, there are some criteria that are based on the selection of the appropriate model.

  • For example, there are models that are only suitable for cutting vinyl panels or tiles, while other models are more versatile and are also suitable for laminate, parquet or precious wood.
  • There are also glaring differences in the cutting width: depending on the model, this can vary from just under 20 cm to a maximum of 46.5 cm.
  • The same applies to the thickness of the material: ideally, the vinyl cutter should be able to cut materials up to at least 10 mm.
  • Especially with adhesive vinyl it is advantageous if the vinyl cutter is equipped with a non-stick coated blade to avoid an impairment of the cut by sticky adhesive.
  • Features, such as an integrated dust bag or laser, can add value to the vinyl cutter.

The best vinyl cutters in comparison

There are many manufacturers of vinyl cutters, models even more.

Among the most famous brands of vinyl cutters are for example

  • Wolfcraft
  • Logoclic
  • Master
  • Wolf
  • Lux
  • X4 Tools
  • Kwb
  • Qteck
  • Batavia
  • Güde
  • Gmc

All manufacturers offer certain advantages to their models – be it in terms of quality, price-performance ratio, functionality or user-friendliness.

Guidance is provided by regularly carried out product tests and comparisons from various – more or less – independent portals, such as Stiftung Warentest or similar.

If that’s the way it goes, Wolfcraft is right at the top of the bestseller list with its VLC 300, VLC 800 and VNC 250 models.

But also models such as the Logoclick LE 210 or the X4-Tools laminate vinyl cutter receive best marks in ratings and price-performance ratio.

Which model is ultimately best depends on the individual requirements and the actual field of application.

Bestseller in the category vinyl cutters:

Rent vinyl cutters

If a vinyl cutter is only needed for a single use, it often does not stand for buying a new device.

Do-it-yourself stores such as Hornbach, Obi or Hellweg therefore usually also offer the possibility of borrowing a vinyl cutter.

But do-it-yourself flea markets as well as portals such as Shpock or ebay are also a good alternative: Vinyl cutters can also be bought cheaply.

The most important question first:
Floating vinyl flooring or better to glue?

On the basis of our relevant experience, we advise against a floating installation of vinyl flooring in almost all cases.

A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations
A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations 😀

Many manufacturers of vinyl floors write in their installation guidelines that the floor must not be installed under windows with strong light incidence or rooms with high temperatures.

What has this fact to do with the question “floating or glued installation“?

Most (click) vinyl floors for floating installation are made of solid vinyl, which can deform even at summer temperatures. Under windows with a lot of light, this happens particularly quickly.

This manifests itself in the formation of “hills” (convex deformation) and can push the ground upwards in the middle of the room.

This can cause doors to no longer open (!) or the floor to become irreversibly deformed. In our experience, therefore, in almost all cases floating installation is to be avoided.

If one also considers the Prices for vinyl floors, incl. Laying coststhe floating installation offers no price advantage compared to the much higher quality and more durable glued version.

Laying vinyl floor floating: advantages

  • fast installation
  • also feasible for laymen
  • very cheap for self-publishers

Floating installation of vinyl flooring: disadvantages

  • High susceptibility to heat
  • Danger of jointing
  • Danger of setting up the individual elements
  • No price advantage over a (much higher-quality) bonded installation by a service provider

The glue vinyl flooring is not the easiest, but the best way to obtain a stable and durable floor covering. However, the preparatory work must be carried out very precisely so that the vinyl flooring can be perfectly glued to the substrate.

The following methods are available:

  1. a full-surface bonding by means of adhesive and tooth filler
  2. gluing with a self-adhesive covering

You can find out right away how vinyl flooring works and what the differences are between the two methods.

Floating vinyl floor piles up
Another floating vinyl floor that would have been better glued 🙂

Prerequisites for successful bonding

Certain conditions must be met in order to glue a vinyl floor in such a way that it lies evenly on the floor without leaving any marks. This includes a clean, cementitiously filled and smoothly sanded substrate. You can find out how to prepare the substrate perfectly here.

If the subfloor is not perfectly levelled and sanded, the vinyl floor may, in the worst case, have dents or waves after gluing.

Then all the effort was in vain… 🙁

The different types of bonding

1. Full-surface bonding

For full-surface bonding, is applied to the well-prepared substrate with a toothed trowel dispersion adhesive (a wet adhesive), on which the 2 to 4 millimetre thick vinyl planks are then laid.

With the so-called “full-surface gluing“, work is always carried out in paths that correspond to a multiple of the width of a plank. What exactly is meant by this, you can see in the following video.

For this purpose, the wet adhesive is applied to the substrate over a large area over the entire width with precision using a notched trowel and, after allowing the adhesive to flash off briefly, placed in the adhesive bed. When gluing full-surface vinyl flooring, work must be carried out quickly, as the wet adhesive no longer adheres properly after 30 to 40 minutes.

How much adhesive apply?

In addition, neither too much nor too little adhesive should be applied to the substrate to achieve optimum adhesion. If you glue a vinyl floor, you do this with a so-called toothed spatula. These are available in different versions. Depending on the size of the “teeth”, different amounts of adhesive are applied. You can find out exactly which tooth size you need from the manufacturer/dealer of your vinyl floor.

The advantages of a glued vinyl floor

Glued vinyl flooring offers numerous advantages, namely this:

  • Solid vinyl is firmly bonded to the substrate, making the floor covering very stable and resistant. This is also the reason why it is used in the shop building as well as in the fair– and event area, among others.
  • Even in the case of underfloor heating, the adhesive vinyl flooring is the best solution, as the low installation height and the firm connection of the floor covering to the substrate enable a direct heat transfer.
  • A glued vinyl floor satisfies the highest demands and offers good room acoustics.

If you want to have a vinyl floor glued as a tenant, you should first obtain the permission of the landlord in order to be legally on the safe side.

2. Vinyl floor with self-adhesive underside

When bonded with a self-adhesive coating, the back of a module or plank is already prepared with adhesive, which is protected by a film. This is simply removed when the vinyl floor is glued, and the vinyl plank is applied to the previously primed underbody.

This technique, which is used for the vinyl floor ingeste, is popular with do-it-yourselfers, as it requires no skill with adhesive and tooth spatula. Nevertheless, extreme precision is required, o.g. when creating the first rows.

In order to lay a self-adhesive vinyl floor in a first-class manner , not only manual skill is required. It also takes a lot of time. Trained craftsmen can do the work very quickly. You will find one of our craftsman’s workshops also in your vicinity.

Laying of self-adhesive vinyl flooring

Before the vinyl floor can be glued to the already prepared substrate, it should acclimatize around 24 hours before bonding in the publishing room, so that it can adapt to the indoor climate.

Determining the direction of installation

Since the door is the main line of sight into the room, the laying process starts from here. The first step is the most important one, as it determines that the first row and the rows following it are laid exactly.

On the back of the plank there is (usually) an arrow indicating the installation direction.

This direction must be adhered to for all planks. The back slide is pulled off a bit and the first plank is placed exactly at the guide.

Then the rest of the film is removed and the plank is pressed to the floor.

Planks that need to be resized are scored with a sharp knife scored and then bent off. The second row of planks is then arranged at least one third offset from the first row.

For solid vinyl, usually no vinyl cutter or similar tool is necessary.

The holes required for the heating pipes are ideally made with a Forstner drill bit (for floating laid vinyl)

With glued solid vinyl, it is possible to square the holes with a cutter, or carpet knife, and break out. At the end, the skirting boards are screwed to the wall.

This is what we need to glue to the vinyl floor:

  • An adhesive spatula
  • Adhesive
  • A sharp cutter knife or a floor laying knife with trapezoidal blade
  • A bevel/angle or metal ruler
  • A line strike/chalk line or alternatively a line laser

Measuring the room before sticking

Before laying the vinyl floor, we have to think carefully about where we want to place our first 3-5 rows.

Typically, this is e.g. an exterior wall, which covers the entire length/width of the room.

We should also measure whether our wall of choice is at least reasonably parallel to the opposite wall. If this is not the case, the end result may be that you need to make diagonal cuts that do not look very nice.

In case of doubt, it is better to measure and average a little more.

Cut vinyl floor properly for installation

Vinyl floors can be cut with e.g. a large pair of scissors or a carpet knife. Professionals only scratch the surface with a sharp knife and break off the vinyl plank. This is the fastest way to install vinyl flooring.

Do not apply too much glue

The adhesive has a limited time in which it receives its adhesive strength.

If you wait too long, the adhesive must be laboriously scraped off the floor. It is therefore recommended to mark exactly beforehand how far the adhesive should be applied.

Example:

We want to relocate 5 rows at the same time. Let’s assume a plank has a width of exactly 17 cm. So we draw a marker that is 17 cm x 5 wide (85 cm).

So we apply the adhesive to a track of exactly 85 cm width.

We then lay our first 5 rows of the vinyl floor on the adhesive bed. Then we draw the next 85 cm and so on.

Bonus Tip #1:

After each track that was laid, the flooring should be pressed again.

For this purpose there are, for example, special metal rollers, which are also used for laying carpets. Such rollers can usually be rented from any hardware store.

Alternatively, a board can be wrapped with a towel, with which you can then rub the freshly laid vinyl floor “along“.

Bonus Tip #2:

Even professionals it happens during installation that some adhesive gets onto the vinyl floor.

However, instead of washing it off immediately, it is better to wait until the adhesive has dried.

When washed off, the adhesive only spreads more and is difficult to remove from the joints later. If, on the other hand, it is left to dry, it can usually be removed easily after the vinyl floor has been laid .

Bonus Tip #3

If you need to interrupt the vinyl floor laying for several hours or days, remove excess adhesive from the substrate.

To do this, it is best to take a wooden board with a straight edge and press the excess adhesive flattened on the floor.

This is particularly important in the area of the edges of the vinyl that has already been laid. Otherwise, the glue must be scraped off with a scraper the next day.