Tag Archive for: Parquet planning

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

  • strip parquet:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • ship bottom:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • mosaic parquet:
    8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • lamp parquet:
    6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • panel parquet:
    approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.

Underfloor heating is considered a comfortable heating option.

No disturbing radiators as well as a pleasant and even heating effect are the big advantages.

However, if the underfloor heating is used at the same time as a parquet floor, problems may occur.

By following important instructions, it is possible to avoid the disadvantages and enjoy the advantages of underfloor heating without restrictions.

A professional advice is useful to find out which parquet is suitable for underfloor heating.

To ensure that hardwood flooring and underfloor heating are compatible with each other, it is important to choose the right hardwood flooring and the type of parquet.

One should already consider all factors before the buy parquet.

The parquet adhesive used and the correct temperature setting of the underfloor heating also play an important role.

In order to ensure that the hardwood flooring shows to its best advantage in underfloor heating and does not have any negative effects, the advice of a specialist is required.

The professional knows the requirements:

  • What is important for laying parquet if underfloor heating is planned?
  • What must be observed when laying planks so that the underfloor heating can work properly?

The best parquet for underfloor heating

Parquet flooring and underfloor heating can get along well if important points are clarified in advance.

Underfloor heating must be a hot water heating system. Electric heating systems are not suitable.

The second question deals with the choice of suitable parquet as floor covering. Here, the type of wood is decisive.

Wood generally conducts heat only slowly.

With a higher raw wood density, however, the heat conduction can be improved. All tropical woods are among the woods with the highest density. These include, for example, the well-known teak wood, but Jatoba, Merbau and Wenge are also well suited.

If tropical woods are used for a parquet floor, the wood should come from sustainable forestry. Certified quality seals such as FSC and PEFC make the decision easier.

In the case of domestic woods, there are also wood types that are the right choice for hardwood flooring with underfloor heating.

Wood species with a high raw wood density include oak, pear tree, walnut tree and cherry tree.

These types of wood have a favourable swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Coniferous woods such as fir or spruce are not recommended.

Caution also applies to beech, because beech wood reacts very strongly to changes in temperature and humidity.

Dry room air is also a risk factor for beech parquet. The installation of underfloor heating increases the negative effects.

With beech hardwood flooring in combination with underfloor heating, large joints inevitably occur g>.

How thick should the parquet be with underfloor heating?

The thicker the parquet is, the longer it takes to heat the surface.

Parquet is available in different thicknesses and designs.

In order for the wood to match the underfloor heating and to achieve good heating performance, a thinner parquet is much better.

Very good results can be achieved with an 8 millimetre thick mosaic parquet, whereas a 22 millimetre strip parquet is less suitable.

If the wood surface heats up only slowly, some owners of underfloor heating systems reach for the controller and set the flow temperature higher. This can lead to damage to the wood, or the adhesive, because the water temperature of the heating system must be adjusted to the special properties of wood and adhesive.

Parquet with underfloor heating: The choice of the right laying method

If parquet is to be laid on underfloor heating, always use the full-bonded installation, because the floating installation has disadvantages in this respect.

A thin layer of air is often created between the insulation underlay and the parquet during floating installation.

Small unevenness or bulges in the floor are the cause.

This leads to an increase in thermal resistance.

The heating of the surface takes correspondingly longer. These risks and disadvantages do not exist with full bonding.

For this reason, parquet should always be glued over the entire surface of underfloor heating systems by a specialist company. With glued parquet, the heat of the underfloor heating is transferred directly into the floor covering.

The formation of joints in hardwood flooring with underfloor heating

Wood is a natural material that always works.

By using underfloor heating this effect can be reinforced. The wood dries out and joints can form.

This risk can be minimized by choosing a suitable parquet floor. With a finished parquet the risk of joint formation is lower. Finished parquet consists of several layers that are glued together. This makes the parquet more stable and keeps its shape better than solid parquet.

The right adhesive for the full-surface bonding of hardwood flooring with underfloor heating

When the parquet is glued, the temperature must not be too high. The parquet adhesive only holds well if the prescribed temperature is not exceeded.

The professional for parquet laying knows the limit values and points them out in order not to endanger the interaction between parquet and underfloor heating.

The choice of temperature for underfloor heating

To ensure that neither the parquet nor the adhesive bond is damaged, the floor temperature must be monitored.

A specified maximum value must not be exceeded. The decisive factor is the flow temperature of the underfloor heating.

It must be set so that the specified maximum value is never exceeded. If the floor becomes too warm, irreversible damage to the parquet can occur. The expert is also the right address for other questions concerning hardwood flooring. It provides information, for example, on the choice of suitable parquet for underfloor heating or on current parquet prices.

Air humidity, underfloor heating and parquet

With underfloor heating, the room climate is better during the heating period than with conventional heating.

Nevertheless, dry room air may still be present. Together with the heat effect of the underfloor heating, which is in direct contact with the parquet, impairments of the wood are possible.

Regular airing and good parquet care help to prevent damage. Under certain circumstances, a humidifier is useful to improve the indoor climate.

If you have hardwood flooring or planks laid, it is not only a question of the appropriate choice of the type of hardwood flooring or the optimum laying method.

Instead, you should always include surface treatment and finishing in your purchasing decision. Because the surface finish is also decisive for a look with an aesthetically individual note.

In addition, it is the decisive factor in providing lasting protection for the parquet floor from moisture and dirt.

Parquet oil recommendations from this article:

Contrast the pros and cons in a targeted way

Two options are available here: You can oil or varnish parquet .

While lacquer seals the floor, you impregnate the parquet surface with an oil or wax.

Whether oil or lacquer is the better solution for your parquet cannot be answered in a general way. If the respective advantages and disadvantages are considered, the pendulum will swing more in the direction of oil or wax for some important criteria. If you want to buy parquet, you should always weigh up the advantages and weaknesses of the finishing techniques against each other.

Why seal parquet?

Sealing is the final surface treatment of the parquet. Possible methods are: sealing with varnish, wax or oil.

In general usage, sealing practically always refers to the application of paint.

The treatment is important because wood as a natural raw material must be protected from moisture and dirt.

The most effective way to provide this protection is to seal it with varnish. This results in particularly good protection and the process is ideal for rooms subject to heavy use. If parquet is laid in the kitchen, a lacquer finish is also recommended.

The warm radiance of the wood is slightly lost. Oil and wax on the other hand preserve the original wood character. However, a floor with such a sealant is more sensitive. After a parquet renovation it is always necessary to freshly seal the sanded parquet planks.

Always pay attention to the humidity

Wood oils have numerous advantages over lacquer. In particular, oxidative natural oils based on linseed oil preserve the so-called diffusion openness, i.e. the breathability of the installed wood.

factual is however always: Wood is basically hygroscopic and reacts to the respective room climatic conditions.

Thus, the parquet absorbs appropriate moisture in the room with damp air and thus expands. In the opposite case – i.e. in dry air – the parquet shrinks.

The intensity depends on the wood species. For example, maple, beech and other light wood species show a generally high swelling and shrinking behaviour.

A relative air humidity of around 50 to 60 percent and a room temperature of about 20 degrees are considered the ideal room climate for the hardwood flooring and also for people.

parquet professionals monitor the air humidity with a hygrometer and use humidifiers for regulation.

It’s not just the optics that decides – the feel has to be right

However, the feel also plays an important role in deciding whether you should oil or varnish your parquet.

After all, wood is a natural product that you can feel as a material at any time.

So when you are faced with the decision whether to oil or varnish your parquet, the feel of the surface is always a decisive factor.

With oiled parquet, you have a clear advantage. Because the oil does not prevent the wood from feeling natural at any time.

The wood can no longer be felt by the lacquer layer

On the other hand, the wood is always under a lacquered layer of lacquered parquet. The wood is still visible, but you can’t feel it at all while running with bare soles of your feet.

Small scratches are not a problem for oiled variants

Also with regard to scratches and similar marks the oiled parquet types have a clear advantage over the lacquered solutions.

Because smaller scratch marks are no longer noticeable if you regularly re-oil the soil. If, on the other hand, there are scratches in the paint layer, these will always remain visible.

Initially, scratches leave white cracks in the paint layer, before these later fill with small particles of dirt and shimmer greyish.

Regularly oiled parquet floors do not necessarily have to be sanded

This can destroy the entire aura of a visually attractive and comfortable parquet floor.

If you also lay oiled parquet, maintain the wooden floor regularly and always treat it with oil in good time, you will often not have to sand your parquet floor again. This saves costs and effort. In addition, you can protect your hardwood flooring with a suitable floor protection mat in places subject to heavy loads.

It depends on the quality of the coating

If you buy parquet that has been covered with a layer of lacquer, you should always pay attention to the quality of the lacquer.

There are considerable differences here. If, for example, a PU lacquer with several layers is used, you are usually on the safe side.

There are parquet floors with a high-quality lacquer coating where even after 40 years no lacquer peeling is visible.

If, on the other hand, an inferior acrylic lacquer is used, frequent sanding is almost inevitable.

In many cases, an inferior product will sooner or later detach itself from the parquet rods or planks, as the wood always swells up due to changes in humidity and then pulls back together again.

Inferior coating layers are more quickly replaced

Experience shows that inferior quality lacquer always peels off first at the edges of the parquet strips or wooden planks.

What remains are bright areas that show a visible contrast to the areas still sealed with varnish.

And not only that:

the bright spots become larger and larger over time. The special charm of a maintained parquet floor falls by the wayside. Rather, the surface suddenly looks more like a patchwork quilt or simply not well maintained.

At a glance: parquet oils – advantages and disadvantages

  • The naturalness of the wooden floor is preserved.
  • Scratch marks and similar damage can be “repaired” by re-oiling.
  • Surface treatment with oil has a positive effect on the indoor climate.
  • Regular oiling prevents premature renovation. Sometimes soils of this kind do not need to be re-ground at all.
  • However, the maintenance of an oiled parquet floor takes a lot of time.
  • Lacquer gives the parquet a very special shine. There are the gloss levels semi-matt, matt and shiny.
  • The surface is optimally protected from mechanical damage and water by the coating layer.
  • Parquet machined with varnish is predestined for use in the commercial sector and under high demands.
  • In case of visible scratches or quirks, you usually need to completely grind a painted floor to repair the damage.
  • You can no longer feel the wood under the lacquer layer.

In earlier times, the living room was the centre of an apartment. In many households today, the kitchen takes up this part. Not only are meals prepared and food stored here, but the kitchen has become a cosy meeting place for the whole family.

If it is an eat-in kitchen, it is also eaten together. And not only that. The whole family meets in the kitchen. Just to talk to each other, to sit together or, for example, to play. It is not for nothing that the trend in this respect continues towards “American cuisine”, where the kitchen, dining room and living room are no longer divided by rigid partitionwalls.

Parquet as preferred kitchen floor: chic, cozy and robust

It is more than logical that the ambience in such an important room for family life should be functional as well as atmospheric and comfortable.

Especially the floor and the decision as to which flooring is the most suitable solution is a central issue. Because the kitchen floor should not only look chic, but above all also functionally aligned. After all, there are times when spills occur in a kitchen while cooking or eating, or when liquids are spilt.

Misfortunes of this kind cannot be prevented. That is why the floor must always be extremely robust, hard-wearing and resistant. In the past, tiles and vinyl flooring were usually the first choice in this respect.

In the meantime, however, parquet has become a popular floor covering in the kitchen. laying floorboards in the kitchen is very much in vogue.

The optimal kitchen floor endures a lot

And that’s not by chance. It is obvious that hardwood flooring in the kitchen alone can score visually and atmospherically against vinyl or, for example, tiles.

It creates a much warmer and more comfortable atmosphere than any other floor covering. However, a floor covering in the kitchen must also always be robust and resistant in order to avoid the corresponding dangers.

In the kitchen, unlike other living areas, a lot can happen. You should be aware of this when you buy parquet.

These are the typical danger swells for parquet in the kitchen:

  • objects fall to the ground.
  • Drinks are knocked over and liquids spill out, causing water stains on the hardwood flooring.
  • the refrigerator is not de-iced properly and water runs out.
  • when opening or clearing the dishwasher, water drips out.
  • when frying, grease squirts from the pan onto the floor.
  • the soil is subjected to a high level of stress at certain points, resulting in increased abrasion.

Parquet in the kitchen is less sensitive with good care

A robust natural material – such as solid wood parquet – is a good choice here.

The parquet prices vary according to quality. Parquet in the kitchen stands for an attractive and decorative look on the one hand, but also offers functional properties that are particularly in demand in the kitchen.

High-quality parquet insulates the heat and at the same time indirectly regulates moisture. Moreover, parquet is far less sensitive for the kitchen than many people still think.

If you lay hardwood flooring, the only thing that always matters is the correct maintenance. If you regularly oil your parquet floor in the kitchen oil and in due course comprehensively sand and reseal , you will enjoy hardwood flooring in the kitchen and co. for a long time. In addition, a floor glued with parquet adhesive is usually more robust than a floating floor.

The coating of the parquet is an essential criterion

But watch out:

Not all parquet types are ideally suited for use as flooring in the kitchen.

Basically you have to differentiate between parquet variants with different coatings.

For example, parquet, which has been sealed with a coating of paint, is not the optimal choice. This is due to the finish, i.e. the surface refinement.

This is because the lacquer forms a layer on the parquet, which, for example, prevents liquids from penetrating the parquet.

However, the longer the liquid remains on the parquet, the greater the risk that it will be drawn into the wood through the joints.

This can result in unsightly stains directly under the parquet sealant, which you cannot easily remove.

Parquet in kitchen – oiled versions are better than painted versions

Better suited than varnish are in this respect oiled parquet floors. There are two clear reasons for this. Firstly, the oil does not form an impenetrable barrier, which means that you have quick access to stains and can remove them immediately.

On the other hand, you can repair or renovate an oiled parquet floor completely without sanding repair.

In many cases it is sufficient to carry out an explicit basic cleaning with the help of a single disc machine and apply new oil to the parquet.

So if you decide on hardwood flooring in the kitchen, you should make sure that you actually buy the oiled version.

This version protects your kitchen floor with its special surface finish.

Just keep in mind that you refresh the oil layer at the right time and otherwise treat your parquet regularly with a care oil. In this way, the soil remains durable and resistant in the long term.

You too can protect your parquet in the kitchen sustainably

However, you can also protect the parquet floor in the kitchen yourself by taking minor measures.

For example, it is important that you always remove liquids or other treats immediately. Care should also be taken when opening and emptying the dishwasher.

If you do this too hastily, water may drip onto the floor at any time. Simply place a carpet in front of the dishwasher and the problem is virtually solved by itself.

The same applies to defrosting your fridge. Even if modern devices do this fully automatically, you should keep an eye on the process. If something is wrong with the functionality, a lot of liquid can leak out. In combination with careful care of the parquet, you prevent in this way lasting damage or unsightly spots on the parquet.

Many dog and cat owners ask themselves the question whether parquet floors and pets are compatible.

Four-legged roommates should feel comfortable, at the same time the floor should not be damaged.

The combination parquet and cat is almost always harmless. With parquet and dog it looks a little more critical.

The type of wood and the surface treatment should be chosen in such a way that no damage occurs.

The problem with animal claws

Cats retract their claws when running and move almost silently on any floor.

scratch marks on the floor are not caused by cats. However, cat claws are a danger for many other materials in the home: all rough surfaces encourage scratching and sharpening of the claws.

This challenge can be defused with a scratching post, and the claws can also be gently shortened with special pliers.

With a parquet floor a cat gets along well. young and lively animals even enjoy the smooth surface especially >/g> and use it for extensive romping.

But what about the topic of claws, parquet and dog?

Dog claws cannot be retracted and often leave scratch marks.

Especially when it is a large and heavy dog, scratches quickly form on the parquet floor.

A sealed floor is more sensitive than oiled parquet. An oiled floor can be re-oiled, smaller scratches can be polished away g>.

Apart from the difficulty caused by hardwood flooring and dog claws, dogs make more running noises than cats.

On a parquet floor you can hear every tap, jump and run fast. As a dog lover, you are usually happy to accept these noises – however, if you are particularly in need of rest, you can cover the dog’s main running track in the apartment with a carpet.

If the pet is not yet stub-clean

Another problem occurs when young animals are not yet house-trained.

Wood reacts very sensitively to urine, the species of animal is not important. This is particularly critical with oak parquet. The cause is the tannic acid contained in oak wood.

The chemical reaction of tannic acid and urine forms ugly black spots. Discoloration extends several millimetres into the wood, abrasive sanding is therefore not an option. The affected parquet strips must be replaced. Other types of wood, for example beech or acacia, also show similar reactions when animal urine hits hardwood flooring.

Parquet and dogs/cats. Animal urine is particularly dangerous for oak parquet
Parquet and dogs/cats. Animal urine is particularly dangerous for oak parquet

Only one thing helps here:

carefully cover the floor until the pet is fully in control of its bodily functions.

And should a mishap happen, the mishap is wiped away as quickly as possible.

The less time the liquid has to penetrate the parquet floor, the less damage is caused.

The problem can recur in sick or old animals. As an animal lover, it is best to take care of the housemate. Then precautions can be taken if necessary!

But there is also good news regarding the question of how parquet and dog or cat get along.

When it comes to “parquet and animal hair“, the floor covering performs very well in comparison with a carpet.

There is no way to prevent pets from losing hair. From a parquet floor, however, the hairs are removed in a flash, e.g. with a vacuum cleaner.

A dry wiper mop is very suitable for this, the animal hairs can be easily absorbed. In the trade there are also special dust cloths, with which animal hairs are removed in no time.

Which parquet is suitable for dogs?

A parquet floor has numerous advantages. Before buying, it is important to consider what requirements the floor should meet.

Is the room subject to heavy use, are there any pets and/or children present? It is best to inform yourself thoroughly about different types of wood and parquet types and their properties.

At a specialist company interested customers will receive the requested information. Which floor price must be expected? Is it possible to lay the parquet by oneself or is it better to get professional help with the floorboarding?

Solid wood parquet is well suited for dogs and other pets if certain precautions are taken. An oiled floor is easy to maintain maintain, and if scratch marks do become visible after some time, oiled parquet can be treated well.

The choice of wood is also important. With a hard wood for the parquet floor, dog owners are on the safe side. Softwoods, for example, are all coniferous woods, but they are rarely suitable for a wooden floor anyway.

Hardwood such as beech, oak or ash is well suited if you want to buy parquet and are considering which parquet would harmonise well with a dog. oiled parquet seems better here than sealed parquet. Scratches can be polished away and a complete renovation is also easier.

Sometimes a smooth parquet floor causes the dog to slip. This can lead to different situations, depending on the temperament of the dog.

A young dog might find it great, he uses the parquet floor as an additional playing surface. Old dogs, who may have problems with their sense of balance or generally with locomotion, become even more insecure.

In both cases it is worthwhile to make a try with ABS socks. What is helpful for small children can also make life in the home easier for the dog. The anti-slip knobs on the underside ensure a secure hold on a smooth wooden floor.

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