The most important thing for the successful vinyl floor laying,is the underground preparation. In the following, we will discuss the most important points – cracking cracks, applying the correct primer and leveling the substrate.

Vinyl floor substrate: screed cracks resinous

Cracks in the subsoil of our vinyl floor (screed) are completely normal. Often these occur with freshly introduced screeds as a side effect of drying.

But cracks also appear in the screed during renovations of old buildings, e.g. after the removal of an old carpet. However, a finished substrate for vinyl floors must no longer have cracks. Cracks in the vinyl floor ingeste must be closed with a special resin before laying a vinyl floor – otherwise the two separated screed parts move and the later applied filler material bursts. Not a good substrate for a vinyl floor. In order to close the cracks in the substrate, they must be separated with a separating cutter (e.g. Flex) and then sealed with a so-called “casting resin”.

Attention: Make sure beforehand whether it is a heating screed. If so, the flex must not be unpacked under any circumstances. This should only be done if only an absolute expert, who has previously discussed himself with a specialist in heating screeds. Otherwise the screed is flooded faster than we like.

Vinyl floor ingess: cracks – checklist:

So far, so good – away with the cracks in the underground

In order for the cracks to be closed once and for all (and we can finally use the substrate for our vinyl floor), we first have to unpack the good old flex.

Now we mill the complete crack with the flex and a concrete racing disc. A flex with suction is recommended, because otherwise the whole room is dusted from top to bottom.

Creating cross-connections in the underground

Then we mill in the background transversely to the crack, approx. every 50 cm a small cut into the screed (length approx. 15 cm). The whole thing should look like a badly sewn scar 🙂

Now we suck out the complete, separated crack including the cross-cut sections cleanly.

Then we place so-called shaft connectors (usually made of sheet metal) or alternatively a steel nail of 10 cm each in each of the cross-sectional sections of the substrate.

The sense: The synthetic resin alone is not enough to connect the two halves of the screed. Metal must be inserted for reinforcement. The synthetic resin is later intended only for fixation and as a filling material for the crack in the vinyl floor substrate.

Mix synthetic resin for the vinyl floor substrate.

It is recommended to use a special casting resin for screeds. Polyester filler is also rarely used for this purpose. However, this is not liquid enough to completely fill the crack in the substrate. It is therefore not recommended.

The casting resin is usually a so-called 2-component casting resin. It is therefore mixed from 2 components, which then perform a chemical reaction. You usually have about 20 minutes to process the brew – after that it becomes tough and then hard.

Attention:mixed casting resin becomes very hot when curing. The excess in the can/bottle must therefore be stored outdoors – far away from combustible objects.

Now we pour the casting resin into the previously sucked out crack and into all cross-cutting sections.

So, almost done. Now quickly sprinkle quartz sand over the freshly cut crack. Otherwise, the filler does not hold later, because the casting resin is eel-smooth after curing.

Vinyl floor base primer

Before we can lay the vinyl floor on the substrate, the vinyl floor must be flattened. And before we can do that, the ground must be primed. As a rule, there are two scenarios:

  1. We have an absorbent substrate (e.g. screed) for our vinyl floor
  2. We do not have an absorbent substrate (e.g. tiles) for our vinyl floor

Correctly read. Tiles can be over-filled (and can therefore also serve as a substrate for vinyl floors) – if the right primer is used.

We touch the primer and apply it to the entire substrate with a foam roller. ready.

Vinyl floor base primer

Leveling vinyl flooring substrate

Now the substrate has to be completely leveled or equalized. This means: freeing the ground from unevenness, so that they don’t matter.

For this purpose, a cementequal compensating mass is stirred. This should then be applied to the substrate later with a thickness of approx. 3-5 mm.

To prepare the substrate for the vinyl flooring, we need:

It is best to spase the ground for two. Otherwise you get very sweaty, because you are constantly busy with fetching water, but at the same time you would have to stir again, so that the filler mass does not dry up.

The performance of the drill must also not be overestimated. When stirring filler mass, many drills have already given up the spirit.

In doubt, better take a stirrer.

Vinyl flooring spat

The most important thing:

  • The filler must be stirred properly – otherwise granules in the surface
  • The filler must be evenly distributed
  • Avoid “heaps”
  • “Wet in wet”. Under no circumstances may the filler mass dry at the edge.
  • The amount of water must be 100% adhered to – here simply read/keep the instructions of the manufacturer on the packaging

Prepare vinyl floor substrate: smooth grinding filler

If the entire surface has been spat and allowed to dry out afterwards, it still needs to be sanded cleanly.

For this purpose, we take a single-disc machine (with suction) and place a coarse grinding wheel underneath (grain 24 or 36). Now we drive off the complete screed with it and remove last unevenness as well as grains etc.

A good single-disc machine costs well over 1000,- Euro. It is therefore advisable to borrow them from the local hardware store. As a washer you need a grinding wheel with very coarse grain – K24 or K36. This can also be found at the rental service.

Afterwards, everything has to be extracted. The substrate for our vinyl floor is ready.

Continue laying with the vinyl floor.

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