Tag Archive for: Repair parquet

Joints in parquet are nothing out of the ordinary and usually there is neither inferior material quality nor poorly executed laying work behind them. Nevertheless, parquet joints are often perceived as annoying. In the following article you can read why parquet joints are not bad in themselves and what you can use to fill joints in your parquet .

Recommended products for closing joints in hardwood flooring:

What creates joints in the parquet?

The main cause of joints in the parquet is the natural swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the natural floor covering. Wood is a natural product that has hygroscopic properties.

This means, it binds water vapour from the air and releases it again, which changes both the wood moisture and the volume of the material depending on the room climate.

This behavior is called swelling and shrinkage – or colloquially formulated: The wood works.

The optimal conditions for parquet are at a room temperature of 20 to 22°C and a relative humidity of 55 to 60%.

In this indoor climate, professionally laid parquet hardly works and therefore has no joints.

Even if the annual average values are maintained, it is still inevitable that they will be exceeded in summer and undercut in winter. Because parquet always adapts to the ambient climate. The bonding of parquet with parquet adhesive can help a little. This somewhat reduces the swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Especially during the heating period, the air in heated rooms becomes drier, the moisture in the wood decreases, the parquet disappears and joints are created.

How pronounced these can be depends, among other things, on the type of laying: floating parquet works more strongly than glued parquet because the parquet panels only lie loosely on top of each other, whereas with full-surface gluing they are firmly connected to the subfloor.

However, the type of wood and the type of parquet also play a role: parquet made of beech or maple tends to have a higher swelling and shrinking behaviour than, for example, oak.

Are joints in the parquet a deficiency?

In general, joints in the parquet are quite their purpose in view of the inevitable source and shrinkage of the wood.

They give the parquet the necessary room for expansion without damaging the floor. However, a distinction must be made between intended and unintended joints.

By intentional joints are to be understood those joints, which were deliberately placed in order to achieve an optimal result in the laying of the parquet.

For example, when laying parquet in the edge areas or wherever the floor is applied to immovable elements such as doors, stair connections, heating pipes or heavy furniture, appropriate expansion joints must be taken into account in order to compensate for tensions of the parquet .

However, if joints occur between the individual parquet elements, these are often not wanted.

Nevertheless, these can hardly be completely avoided – especially with solid parquet there will always be fugue formation.

Accordingly, joints with a width of between 0.1 and 0.5 mm (for parquet on underfloor heating systems up to 0.8 mm) are considered perfectly normal.

If the joint width is between 0.5 and 1 mm, this can be considered a conspicuity, joints over 1 mm are ultimately outside the tolerance range.

However, it is always necessary to take into account the circumstances in which the joints occurred.

In most cases, a expert is consulted in these cases, who clarifies in an expert opinion whether the exceeding of the tolerance limit was caused by the laying work or by other influencing factors, such as lack of measures to control or regulate the air humidity or incorrect heating and ventilation behaviour.

The dimensional tolerances are regulated in the standards ATV DIN 18356 Parquet work and DIN 18202 Tolerances in building construction.

Should parquet joints be filled?

While expansion joints in the edge areas usually disappear behind skirting boards, joints remain visible on the surface of the parquet.

Older parquet, in particular, often has relatively large joints, which is due on the one hand to the previously usual laying distances and on the other hand to the factor time.

However, even relatively newly laid parquet can, for the reasons mentioned above, lead to more joints, especially in winter.

These can not only negatively affect the appearance of the parquet, but sometimes develop into dirt traps that are difficult to clean or – with the appropriate width – to annoying stumbling blocks.

It is therefore perfectly sensible to repair and fill parquet joints. If there are only small dents or scratches in the parquet, these can be repaired with a parquet repair set and melting wax.

Which parquet joint fillers are available?

For filling joints in the parquet floor, there are basically different options that are used depending on the joint width to be able to.

Fugue kitt for parquet

For narrow joints, fugue kit is a proven option. This can also be easily made from wood glue and sawdust itself by mixing both components into a tough mass.

The paste is then applied to the joints with a spatula and, after complete drying, sanded down with a sanding machine or sandpaper and resealed.

It is optimal if the joints are repaired within the scope of the parquet renovation.

The grinding dust caused by the grinding process is excellently suited for the production of joint putty and also has the same colour as the parquet.

Alternatively, special joint fillers in different colours can be purchased from specialist retailers. For example, joints can also be deliberately filled in a contrasting colour to give the parquet a new look.

As joint filler is relatively liquid, it is in principle only recommended for joints up to a maximum width of 5 mm, as it can otherwise run out of the joints.

Acrylic-based joint fillers

If wider joints are to be repaired, special acrylic-based joint fillers are the better choice. These are also available in different colour variants and remain permanently elastic even after filling the joints.

This preserves the necessary flexibility so that the parquet can continue to work.

In principle, these properties also apply to silicone. Acrylic joint fillers are still preferred.

This is because, in contrast to silicone joint sealing compound, acrylic joint sealing compound can also be sanded down and painted or oiled without any problems. Due to its brittle consistency, hard or melting wax is also recommended only for removing defects in hardwood flooring and not for filling joints.

In order to achieve an optimal result of the acrylic joint fillers, the joints should first be carefully cleaned.

In doing so, any remaining joint fillings must be removed completely and the joint must be made dust-free with a parquet vacuum cleaner.

In order to work cleanly, it is recommended to glue the edges of the joints with painter’s crepe. This gives the joints an exact closure and avoids unnecessary contamination of the parquet.

For the application of the joint filler, a cartridge press is best used, with which the joint mass is inserted into the joint up to about 1 – 2 mm via plank level, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If the joint filler is dry, this supernade can be cut off or sanded and the joint sealed. Care must be taken to ensure that the products used are compatible with the joint mass.

Filling joints with wooden strips

Regardless of the composition, joint fillers generally have a limited service life of around 10 years.

After that, the joints should be refilled. However, if you want to fill joints for longer, you can also repair them with wooden strips. However, this method involves significantly more work.

In the first step, the joints must be brought to the same width with a knife or planer. Afterwards, the cut and adapted wooden strips with wood glue and wooden hammer are inserted into the joint. Any supernatry is then sanded and the surface sealed.

A spilled glass or a bucket that has fallen over – water can quickly get onto the hardwood flooring due to minor inattention and cause unsightly water stains. This article will show you how best to remove them.

How do water stains appear on the parquet floor?

Prolonged water exposure does not be good for the parquet.

Because the soil from the natural raw material wood reacts to moisture. In order to avoid damage in the parquet, water laughter should therefore be avoided in general.

Should an accident nevertheless occur, the following applies: The faster the water is wiped up, the better.

If it is removed in a timely manner, no undesirable consequences can be feared due to the wetness.

However, if water remains on the parquet for a longer period of time, it can penetrate into the joints and lead to increased swelling of the floor. Water stains also only occur if the wetness can penetrate the parquet.

Water stains on the parquet floor – what now?

Water stains on the parquet are annoying because they affect the appearance of the floor.

The good news is, however, that damage caused by water spots in the parquet can be repaired relatively well. Depending on whether it is a bright or a dark water stain or oiled or lacquered parquet, there are different approaches.

Remove bright water stains

Bright water spots are only superficial – the water has not penetrated into the interior of the parquet.

Bright water stains can be easily removed from both painted and oiled parquet floors.

No aggressive cleaners are necessary, simple household remedies are completely sufficient in most cases:

Simply apply water-dissolved baking soda or salt, white toothpaste, lubricating soap or paint gasoline to the bright water stain in the parquet and remove with a soft cloth.

The cleaned area can then be treated with oil or sealed sealed.

Remove dark water stains

Dark water stains indicate that the water has penetrated the parquet and reacted with the tannic acid contained in the wood (for oak parquet and acacia). This is why the removal of dark water stains in hardwood flooring is different from the removal of light-coloured stains. The actual cost depends on whether the parquet has been oiled or varnished.

Oiled parquet

In the case of oiled parquet, it is possible to treat the water stain with special tannic acid stain sprays even without pre-treatment and to remove light water edges with it.

The more complex, but also more reliable method is to grind down the affected area and re-oil it. In the case of very small stains, it is also possible to cut out the area with a cutter knife and then repair it with a parquet repair kit.

The oil layer must first be removed – this works best with coarse sanding paper.

When the water stain is reached, use fine sandpaper to avoid sanding too much of the surface. The water stain can be treated with even sanding movements until it is no longer visible. Afterwards, the fine dust produced is removed with a vacuum cleaner and a new layer of oil is applied. Visible transitions/gloss differences between old and new oil layer can sometimes be adjusted with steel wool. Often the colour differences disappear after a few years by themselves, through the regular use of parquet care. Finally, the entire parquet should be treated with suitable care products.

Painted parquet

In principle, this method is also possible to remove water stains from lacquered parquet. However, partial sanding always leads to colour differences in the parquet, as the floor darkens over time. Therefore, in such cases the complete parquet floor must actually be sanded down. This is the only way to avoid differences in colour and gloss.

Even the most robust parquet is not immune to damage.

Daily wear and tear or minor mishaps can quickly cause scratches, holes or dents in the parquet. Learn in this article how to best repair various damage in the parquet.

One of the great advantages of parquet is its durability and durability.

Nevertheless parquet is not indestructible. However, minor damage to hardwood flooring is usually relatively easy to repair without having to renovate the entire floor. How best to repair defects in hardwood flooring, depends on the type of damage.

Remove scratches in the parquet

Scratches in hardwood flooring are only an optical defect with waxed or oiled floors.

With lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the damaged surface sealant can cause damage in the long term if dirt or moisture penetrates under the protective layer.

To eliminate scratches in the parquet, there are various possibilities that achieve very good results depending on the depth of the scratches.

Superficial scratches or sanding marks in the parquet can be removed in most cases by polishing.

This method works for oiled or waxed parquet as well as for painted parquet.

For this purpose, furniture polish or repair wax or oil is applied to a soft, lint-free cloth and the scratch is rubbed in until it has disappeared.

However, it is important to note the material compatibility with the parquet, as the damaged areas can otherwise discolor when the agent penetrates into the wood.

Especially with painted parquet, the damaged area can also be easily sanded and then provided with a new layer of diluted lacquer. However, it will hardly be possible to repair the paint without transitions, which can be seen more or less depending on the light incidence.

Even with a walnut slight scratches in the parquet can be treated well. By rubbing the nut kernel into the surface, the scratch does not disappear completely, but it becomes much less visible. Suitable parquet maintenance also helps against small scratches in the floor.

In addition, there are also special Retouching pins in different colours, with which the scratches in the parquet can be concealed.

Repairing deep scratches and holes in the parquet

Major damage in the parquet, such as deep scratches or holes, can be easily filled with wooden putty.

To do this, the parquet must first be thoroughly cleaned with a parquet vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

In particular, the damaged site must be clean and completely dry before repair can begin. Subsequently, the wood putty is mixed accordingly, applied to the scratch or hole with a plastic spatula in several layers and smooth coated.

For an optimal colour result, sawdust matched to the parquet floor can be added to the wood putty. Once the wood putty is completely dried – the drying time is between 12 and 24 hours, depending on the product – the repaired area is sanded with sandpaper until the surface is as much as possible aligned with the rest of the parquet.

Eliminate damage in the parquet with repair kit

For deeper scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet, special parquet repair kits are also a good alternative.

These are available in different versions and price categories in DIY stores or specialist retailers.

The most significant difference with repair sets is the melting wax contained in them.

While the cheaper variants usually contain relatively soft melting wax, which deforms even at low temperatures – such as sunlight – , more expensive repair kits contain high-quality hard wax and are also available in numerous colour shades.

For such a professional parquet repair set, you can expect costs of about 100,- Euro. An investment that is, however, definitely worthwhile in view of the result.

To repair the damage in the parquet, the hard wax of the parquet repair set is heated and the scratch or hole is filled with it.

In order to get as close as possible to the wood structure, hard wax should be used in various shades of colour.

With some repair kits, the wax can also be mixed with a wood paste until the colour tone corresponds as closely as possible to that of the parquet. Scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet can then be filled with this compound. However, the wax is not suitable for filling joints in hardwood flooring. This is because the material is brittle and therefore unsuitable.

Remaining wax residues can then be removed with a plastic spatula or a plastic card. Finally, the repaired area is cleaned with a dry, soft cloth and re-treated with care products suitable for the respective parquet (polish, oil, sealing varnish).

Repair kits for parquet only achieve an optimal result if the damage in the floor is deep enough.

Because only if the macke in the parquet is correspondingly large, the filling with the hard wax gets the necessary support.

If the damage is too slight, it should therefore be extended accordingly with a cutter or similar tool if a repair set is used.

Remove dents in the parquet

If the parquet has a dent, it is sometimes sufficient to moisten it.

Due to the moisture, the parquet swells slightly and the dent is removed.

With more stubborn dents, the iron can also help: Simply place a damp cloth on the appropriate place and gently slide over it with the hot iron.

Thus, the moisture from the hot water vapor can penetrate even better into the wood, the parquet expands and the dent disappears again.

However, this method requires very careful handling to prevent the parquet from swelling too much due to excessive moisture.

In addition, especially in the case of lacquered hardwood flooring, you should test in advance on an inconspicuous spot whether the lacquer can withstand the high temperatures of the iron without damage.

If the dents have been caused by water damage, the dents are Repair, however, is not so easy. In this case, the special procedures for the elimination of water damage.

Partially replace the parquet

If a damage cannot be repaired by the various repair methods, hardwood flooring also offers the possibility of replacing individual elements. To do this, the damaged parquet is either cut out with a chisel, for example, or a single plank is removed and replaced with a suitably adapted, new element.

Partial replacement of parquet is particularly advantageous if there is loose parquet, for example because the parquet adhesive has come loose or the click system is damaged.

Grinding the parquet

In the case of extensive or more serious damage, it may be necessary to sand down the parquet in the course of repair.

With the exception of untreated parquet, this is also partially possible in most cases. However, it should be borne in mind that the sanded area will always differ from the rest of the floor, as the parquet changes its color over time.

Corresponding color differences between repaired and original parquet should therefore be compensated so that the repair is as little visible as possible.

This is often possible by treating the surface with polish, oil or sealing wax. However, if this is not the case, the entire parquet floor must ultimately be sanded down. In places subject to heavy loads, e.g. in offices under the desk, you should always use a floor protection mat.

If parquet is arched or swollen, excessive moisture is often the reason.

While superficial water damage can be detected quickly and easily, the cause can also be hidden under the floor. In this article you will learn what causes excessive moisture under the parquet and how to proceed in case of water damage.

How does parquet react to moisture?

As a natural wooden floor, parquet always reacts to water.

What is of great advantage in terms of indoor climate and feel-good atmosphere on the one hand can lead to damage in the parquet floor on the other hand.

Too high humidity leads to an increased swelling behavior of the parquet – unsightly deformations are the result.

A different image is created depending on where the water comes from:

  • Moisture spreads from below, parquet forms convex – it swells up and the middle of the rods curves upwards or comes up.
  • If moisture enters from above, the deformations are concave – the so-called “bowl” occurs, the parquet deforms like a bowl, with the edges facing upwards.

Causes of water damage in the parquet

Water damage in the parquet can have many causes. While a fallen water bucket or a room flooded by an leaking washing machine is quickly discovered, there are a number of water damage that is not so obvious.

Thus, the damage is often not noticed until the parquet is swelled or curves. Then it is said to get to the bottom of the matter quickly in order to limit the damage as much as possible.

There are the following options:

Too moist screed

If it is a new building, the parquet may have been on a screed that was too damp.

In order for a newly erected screed to be suitable for laying parquet, it must be completely dry.

As a guideline, a drying time of approx. one week per cm of screed – a classic cement screed is therefore usually sufficiently dried after about 4 weeks. In order to be certain, a residual moisture determination must be carried out using the CM method before laying the hardwood flooring, which determines exactly whether the values are within the approved standard.

Defective water pipes or heating pipes

If there are water or heating pipes – for example from a underfloor heating system – under the hardwood flooring, the water damage may also have been caused by a leak in these pipes. In this case, moisture penetrates into the parquet from below, but this can go unnoticed for a while.

Too high humidity

Particularly with floating parquet laid , bulging can also be caused by excessive humidity. If, in addition, too little space has been left around the edges or at door thresholds to give the parquet the necessary room to swell and shrink, it will mainly come up at the joints.

Water damage in the parquet – what to do?

No matter what the cause is – in case of water damage in the parquet, the motto applies:

The quicker the damage is repaired, the smaller are the consequences and the more likely it is that the parquet can be repaired.

As soon as a water damage has been detected in the parquet, the therefore be acted upon as soon as possible. In this way, it is not only avoid irreparable damage, but it also prevents mold formation, which could sometimes spread to the entire floor construction.

Parquet has the great advantage that it can be easily repaired in most cases with slight to moderate water damage.

A real wood floor is completely destroyed only if the water is on the floor for a long time or the parquet elements in it “float”.

In contrast to other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet can therefore usually be easily renovated – even the repair of individual damaged areas is possible.

The cost of repairing or remediation measures depends accordingly on the extent of the water damage.

Eliminate superficial water damage in the parquet

Water damage to the surface of the parquet is best repaired by first wiping the water as quickly as possible.

Afterwards, the parquet must dry completely.

If the floor was only in contact with the water for a short time – for example, because a bucket was spilled – it is sufficient to provide the necessary draught in the room by aeration. The affected area can then be treated with a suitable care product.

In the case of larger or longer floods – e.g. due to leaking washing machines or floods – the residual moisture from the parquet and the air must be removed over a longer period of time by a dehumidifier.

It is important to keep windows and doors closed during the entire drying phase – with the exception of impulse ventilation – windows and doors.

Suitable equipment can be rented at DIY stores or specialist companies, the costs for this are usually covered by the insurance.

In addition, in the case of major surface damage, the water may also have penetrated into the joints of the parquet and thus spread moisture under the floor.

If this risk exists, a expert or expert should definitely be consulted, who will examine the water damage in detail and plan further measures if necessary.

Repair water damage below the parquet

If the source of the water damage is below the parquet, has probably already passed some time, which is the expense of the Damage is eliminated.

The most important thing is to eliminate the cause of water ingress. To do this, it is usually necessary to remove the parquet at the affected area. Later the parquet can be fixed again with parquet adhesive.

Once the damage has been repaired, the entire underbody – especially the screed – must first completely dry up before the hole can be closed again.

The use of a drying device is also recommended for this purpose.

In addition, any existing bulk material should be removed. Only when the soil has completely dried out and there are no signs of mold formation, the affected area can be filled with new bulk material and the hole can be closed with new parquet elements.

The old hardwood flooring will probably be too damaged by the effects of water to be reused. Colour differences in the decor can be compensated for by special oils or lacquers or a new parquet sealing.

Signs of mold infestation

If a musty, fashionable or earthy smell goes out after a water damage, this is usually an indication that mold has formed under the parquet.

The extent of the infestation and the possible spread to the dwelling can be investigated by means of an appropriate expert opinion.

If mould is actually found, the parquet must be completely removed and often also the screed underneath must be renovated.

A new screed may only be introduced if the residual moisture in the room is below 4 percent – after that, the corresponding drying time must be observed before a new parquet can be laid.

Since the highest care is required in the refurbishment of parquet after a water damage with mould infestation, the measures should be carried out by a specialist.

When should parquet be sanded?

parquet is sanded down during renovation. There is no standard time period for this.

Under normal use, a interval of ten to fifteen years is sufficient. The decisive factor is wear and tear. Depending on how worn out the parquet looks, sanding can be necessary more or less frequently. Often it is also sufficient to repair individual scratches with a parquet repair set.

Most of the water stains and scratches can be reliably removed with it. However, one should bear in mind that wood is removed during each grinding process.

Depending on the parquet type and the respective thickness of the wear layer the parquet floor can be in use for decades. A stronger parquet made of a harder wood species is generally more robust, but can also be sanded more often.

After sanding, the parquet must be freshly sealed again – either with oil, wax or varnish.

Even after new parquet has been laid, it must be sanded down if it is untreated. This removes residues from the parquet adhesive, for example.

When should parquet be resealed?

A new seal is always due when the floor has been sanded down.

The first choice for sealing is a protective, transparent varnish layer. One should apply a primer before painting. This minimizes edge gluing caused by the subsequent application of varnish. It also allows the wood colour tone to be changed.

During renovation, holes, cracks and scratches can also be filled and repaired with wood putty.

The varnish for parquet sealing is available in various versions. You have the choice between glossy, silky gloss or silk matt.

Coloured lacquers are also possible, with which the colour of the parquet can be changed. After sealing with varnish, the floor must dry well before it can be walked on again.

Some parquet types are delivered without sealing. Then, of course, the sealing process is due after the laying. Apart from lacquer, oil or wax can be used. The floor then retains its particularly natural appearance, but is more sensitive to moisture.

Why do you have to prime hardwood flooring?

Parquet should be primed before applying the varnish for sealing.

The process is not absolutely necessary, but often makes sense. When the parquet is primed, it is possible to influence or change the colour of the wood.

In addition, the primer reduces the so-called “edge gluing” of the sealant to be applied afterwards. With a water-based primer, the surface will also become a little brighter.

However, you can also make the wood darker with an appropriate primer or emphasize the natural color more.

After a primer, which is applied with a brush or roller, the paint also holds better.

Why should parquet be primed as well? Special primers with special properties play an important role.

There are primers with ingredients that isolate old oil or wax residues. This is useful in the case of renovation. A special primer is used when processing parquet made of exotic woods. This prevents discoloration or other damage to the surface caused by certain substances that may be present in the wood.

Can I sand the parquet myself?

Even if it looks very simple in different videos, you should leave parquet sanding to the professionals. There are just too many things that can go wrong with it. In addition, handling the machines requires a lot of practice and experience. It is not without reason that the profession of hardwood flooring installer is an apprenticeship with a regular training period of 3 years.

At some point, the time comes for each parquet floor when it must be removed.

Depending on the type of installation and the type of hardwood flooring, diligent do-it-yourselfers can carry out the work themselves or commission a specialist company.

The decisive factor is whether it is finished parquet or solid parquet. The used parquet adhesive also plays a role.

It also depends on the time available, how large the area is and which tools or heavier equipment must be used.

The cost factor is also important – do-it-yourself work saves money, but can be very cumbersome and difficult. A professional, on the other hand, is well equipped and knows the challenge of the parquet removal very well.

When do i need to remove parquet?

In principle, the natural material wood is durable. parquet can be sanded and resealed. Scratches can also be repaired with a parquet repair set.

However, this is only possible several times with solid parquet. The wear layer of finished parquet is relatively thin, so that sanding only produces good results twice at most.

So if the originally installed parquet floor cannot be renovated, it must be removed and replaced.

Another reason: The old parquet simply no longer pleases the residents. Before new parquet can be laid, the old wooden floor must inevitably give way.

Video: Remove parquet with the floor saw

The simple case: Remove floating laid parquet

The easiest way to remove it is to use floating pre-finished parquet.

In this case, only the individual elements are glued together. It is even easier with click parquet where no glue has been used at all.

The parquet is not glued to the ground under any circumstances, so the removal of the floor is easy.

First of all, the removal of the skirting boards.

Then the first row of parquet is lifted, starting at one end of the room.

It is advisable to use a lever tool. With a crowbar or a so-called cowfoot it is easy to remove the parquet.

The only difficulty is with the first row, since the joint has a dimension of only about 10 to 15 millimetres. Once the first row of parquet has been removed, the further removal is very fast.

exception: Glued parquet elements with a tongue and groove joint can be a little more complicated. It is necessary to break the connections between the individual planks. But even in this case the effort is limited and can be easily managed by hobby craftsmen.

With high effort: Remove glued prefabricated parquet

The situation is completely different, however, when fully glued finished parquet must be removed before new planks can be laid.

The fixed bonding is normally not to be loosened by hand. This is only possible if the adhesive bond is brittle due to age.

So before you resort to the use of machines, it is worth trying. If the adhesive bond is brittle, it is possible to scrape off the individual parquet strips.

Good aids are chisels, scrapers and spatula. However, the work requires time and strength.

Only a special machine helps with a stable adhesive connection. Power is still needed, but at least progress is being made relatively quickly.

If a machine is used, it is advisable to use a device with fine dust extraction (or at least a vacuum cleaner). Otherwise, experts recommend wearing a respirator so that the dust formation does not cause any damage to health.

It is particularly difficult to remove finished parquet if elastic adhesives have been used. These are usually silane adhesives, which are characterized by a long service life and elasticity.

This actual quality feature can cause great difficulties when removing parquet. The lowest layer of the parquet rods can stick to the screed and must be removed in painstaking work.

Video: Cut off parquet glue after the parquet out:

Remove solid parquet

In the case of solid parquet, age is the first thing that matters. Parquet flooring that has been in use for several decades or even longer often dissolves almost by itself.

The adhesives used at the time have long since lost their strength. However, novel adhesives such as an elastic silane adhesive make removal an enormous challenge.

By hand the distance is practically impossible. You need a professional parquet layer with experience and above all a special machine.

With an old solid parquet floor, it may be worthwhile to consider the alternative of “sanding down and resealing”. The special charm of a floor “with history” can be wonderfully shown to advantage when a time-honoured solid parquet floor, freshly reconditioned, is combined with the fitting interior!

How much does the parquet removal cost?

The cost of removing a parquet floor is variable and depends on the condition of the old floor.

Bonding, size of space and time involved in pricing. If the bond is brittle, removal can be very quick and easy, but a lot of effort is required for an elastic adhesive with high adhesive strength.

A competent specialist company will prepare a meaningful cost estimate, so that you are safe from unpleasant surprises.

Even before the removal, it is important to obtain general information about floor prices.

Then it is also possible to make a realistic estimate for the buy parquet. Because after the old floor has been professionally removed, a new parquet or plank floor can be laid, which again creates a pleasant living atmosphere.

Where can I dispose of parquet?

Old hardwood flooring falls into the category of construction waste.

Under no circumstances may the planks be burned, because there are almost always pollutants in some form in torn out parquet.

Adhesives, oils and sealing varnishes can be harmful to health, and these materials must not be allowed to enter groundwater or otherwise be disposed of in the environment.

Where to put old hardwood flooring? If only small quantities are involved and the parquet – without adhesive – was laid floating, the remains can be disposed of in the household waste. However, in most cases the quantities of waste involved are larger.

Especially when the old parquet was glued, it is even hazardous waste. Adhesives used a few decades ago often contain toxic components. In this context: When removing the old parquet, a breathing mask should always be worn.

You can ask the municipality whether the local building yard is the right place to go.

The administration provides information on where to dispose of parquet. Anyone who commissions a professional with the removal and disposal is also on the safe side. The costs also include removal, an expense that is worthwhile.