parquet or tiles? When it comes to the floor covering in an apartment, the decision is often made between these two variants, depending on the room use.

Whether tiles or parquet is the better choice depends on subjective preferences, the spatial conditions and the respective material properties.

If you want to buy parquet, you should always keep the different variants in mind. Because here there are sometimes striking differences in quality.

Large price differences between parquet and tiles

There are sometimes considerable differences in prices, although the difference is of course always dependent on the quality. Tiles or parquet – that is not even the decisive point with regard to price differences. Instead, it is a decisive point for which parquet type you ultimately decide.

Parquet or tiles: Solid parquet costs between 40 and 200 euros per square meter

While you can get inexpensive multi-layer parquet in some cases for prices between ten and 15 euros per square metre, high-quality two- or three-layer parquet already costs around 30 to 50 euros per square metre.

The prices for real wood or solid parquet, on the other hand, start at around 40 euros per square metre. Depending on parquet type, wood species and parquet manufacturer the prices for solid parquet will increase. Thus, there are also variants in this area for which you have to invest up to 150 or even 200 Euro per square meter.

Tiles or parquet: prices for floor tiles vary between 25 and 80 euros per square meter

On the other hand, anyone interested in tiles will not be able to avoid porcelain stoneware with this designation.

These are ceramic tiles that offer extremely low water absorption.

As a rule, floor tiles are laid unglazed, although glazed and polished versions are also available from specialist dealers.

The respective prices vary depending on the quality. Thus, porcelain stoneware tiles with an appealing quality are already available from around 25 to 30 euros per square metre.

Especially high-quality floor tiles, which feature special surface designs and extraordinary designs, can also cost up to 80 euros per square meter.

Parquet or tiles: The cost-benefit ratio of parquet

However, the prices of tiles and parquet must always be considered in the context of the benefits.

Real wood or solid wood parquet has an extremely long service life. Because this type of parquet can be sanded several times, depending on the thickness of the lamellas.

However, this very good service life should not be underestimated in comparison to the cost of sanding down wear marks and the cost of new parquet sealing . As a rule, solid wood parquet is sanded every 15 years.

If you have installed multi-layer parquet instead, you can expect a comparatively limited service life of 15 to a maximum of 20 years. Depending on the thickness of the wear layer, multi-layer variants can often only be ground once, but at most twice .

Tiles or parquet: the cost-benefit ratio of floor tiles

If you choose high-quality tiles, you can expect a service life of around 60 years.

Tiles of this type usually have a high degree of hardness. The lower this hardness is, the more the shelf life shrinks.

In principle, however, tiles are always maintenance-free; there are therefore no renewal costs over the course of their service life no renewal costs.

With cheaper floor tiles, however, visible signs of wear are also produced, which is due to the lower degree of hardness.

Tiles or parquet – the essential comparison criteria

Even if, in addition to the price criterion, the subjective approach or one’s own perception is always important, there are important factors that can be objectively compared.

This gives you a valuable decision-making aid at any time for the question “parquet or tiles“:

1. Atmosphere and comfort

Basically, there are no two opinions here, whether parquet or tiles seem more comfortable and atmospheric. The parquet is clearly advantaged by the subtle structure, the comparatively soft surface and the flattering wood shades. Parquet creates comfort and atmosphere.

2. Naturalness and individuality

Parquet is manufactured industrially just like tiles. Nevertheless, wooden parquet is still a piece of nature. A natural look is given. Virtually every single parquet rod has an individual optical character. Tiles are available in many different colour variations and with different surfaces, but the naturalness and individuality of wood is missing here. Tiles often look sterile and underline a rather cool atmosphere.

3. Degree of hardness and resistance

Different types of wood are used for hardwood flooring. Some woods such as pine, larch, chestnut, spruce or alder are soft woods, while oak, robinia and scupira are hardwoods. Scratch marks are therefore also quickly visible on soft woods. It is enough if you have small stones in the apartment unintentionally stuck under your shoes and scratch them while walking over the hardwood flooring. Tiles, on the other hand, generally have a high degree of hardness and are therefore generally more hard-wearing and resistant than parquet.

4. Visibility of joints

When deciding whether parquet or tiles are the better choice, the subject of joints also plays an important role. For tiles, joints of about two to three millimetres are necessary. With parquet floors, joints are avoided for the time being by the laying technique or by the construction. In the winter months the picture changes and visible joints are formed between the individual laying units. This is due to the low air humidity in winter: the parquet or wood shrinks. Dirt often penetrates into these joints and is sometimes difficult to remove. A underfloor heating further intensifies this effect with parquet.

5. Color changes over time

Parquet flooring can change colour after a certain period of time – for example due to sunlight. Thus, over time, the parquet wood usually becomes darker, in some cases also lighter. Example light oak: the colouring becomes darker and darker over time and tends towards yellow. Tiles do not change their colour. The colour fastness is therefore maintained.

6. Cleaning and care

In order to preserve the optical speciality of parquet over a long period of time, the surface should be regularly treated with care oils and cleaning soaps or cleaned. tiles do not require such maintenance. Stains or dirt can be easily removed with a damp cloth.

But for this (oiled) parquet partially absorbs odours – a service that tiles unfortunately cannot offer 🙂

Tiles or parquet – the respective advantages at a glance

The benefits of parquet over tiles

  • Parquet floors create comfort and atmosphere. In addition, parquet feels really warm right from the first skin contact, which makes underfloor heating virtually unnecessary. Tiles, on the other hand, are cold. They appear sterile and do not create any special cosiness.
  • Parquet can be renovated several times, depending on the wood quality. This is not possible for tiles (only marble and granite can be reworked).
  • The walking sound or impact sound is well insulated by the parquet just like the general room sound. This is especially the case if the parquet has been glued with parquet adhesive. Tiles tend to amplify the reverberation and also transmit sounds when walking more than parquet.
  • oiled parquet can partially absorb odours. This applies both to kitchen odours and, for example, also to the smell of cigarette smoke.

The advantages of tiles over parquet

  • Tiles have a greater degree of hardness. They are therefore more robust and less sensitive to scratches.
  • Parquet flooring must be protected at heavily loaded areas with a floor protection mat.
  • Tiles do not require any special care and are also easy to clean. Parquet, on the other hand, must be regularly machined with special cleaning agents.
  • Even if tiles feel cold when in contact with the skin, they conduct heat much better than parquet. As a result, floor tiles are the best flooring for underfloor heating.
  • wood works, stone and ceramic tiles do not. In winter, joints sometimes form between the individual rods or planks during the parquet. This does not happen with tiles.

If you have hardwood flooring or planks laid, it is not only a question of the appropriate choice of the type of hardwood flooring or the optimum laying method.

Instead, you should always include surface treatment and finishing in your purchasing decision. Because the surface finish is also decisive for a look with an aesthetically individual note.

In addition, it is the decisive factor in providing lasting protection for the parquet floor from moisture and dirt.

Parquet oil recommendations from this article:

Contrast the pros and cons in a targeted way

Two options are available here: You can oil or varnish parquet .

While lacquer seals the floor, you impregnate the parquet surface with an oil or wax.

Whether oil or lacquer is the better solution for your parquet cannot be answered in a general way. If the respective advantages and disadvantages are considered, the pendulum will swing more in the direction of oil or wax for some important criteria. If you want to buy parquet, you should always weigh up the advantages and weaknesses of the finishing techniques against each other.

Why seal parquet?

Sealing is the final surface treatment of the parquet. Possible methods are: sealing with varnish, wax or oil.

In general usage, sealing practically always refers to the application of paint.

The treatment is important because wood as a natural raw material must be protected from moisture and dirt.

The most effective way to provide this protection is to seal it with varnish. This results in particularly good protection and the process is ideal for rooms subject to heavy use. If parquet is laid in the kitchen, a lacquer finish is also recommended.

The warm radiance of the wood is slightly lost. Oil and wax on the other hand preserve the original wood character. However, a floor with such a sealant is more sensitive. After a parquet renovation it is always necessary to freshly seal the sanded parquet planks.

Always pay attention to the humidity

Wood oils have numerous advantages over lacquer. In particular, oxidative natural oils based on linseed oil preserve the so-called diffusion openness, i.e. the breathability of the installed wood.

factual is however always: Wood is basically hygroscopic and reacts to the respective room climatic conditions.

Thus, the parquet absorbs appropriate moisture in the room with damp air and thus expands. In the opposite case – i.e. in dry air – the parquet shrinks.

The intensity depends on the wood species. For example, maple, beech and other light wood species show a generally high swelling and shrinking behaviour.

A relative air humidity of around 50 to 60 percent and a room temperature of about 20 degrees are considered the ideal room climate for the hardwood flooring and also for people.

parquet professionals monitor the air humidity with a hygrometer and use humidifiers for regulation.

It’s not just the optics that decides – the feel has to be right

However, the feel also plays an important role in deciding whether you should oil or varnish your parquet.

After all, wood is a natural product that you can feel as a material at any time.

So when you are faced with the decision whether to oil or varnish your parquet, the feel of the surface is always a decisive factor.

With oiled parquet, you have a clear advantage. Because the oil does not prevent the wood from feeling natural at any time.

The wood can no longer be felt by the lacquer layer

On the other hand, the wood is always under a lacquered layer of lacquered parquet. The wood is still visible, but you can’t feel it at all while running with bare soles of your feet.

Small scratches are not a problem for oiled variants

Also with regard to scratches and similar marks the oiled parquet types have a clear advantage over the lacquered solutions.

Because smaller scratch marks are no longer noticeable if you regularly re-oil the soil. If, on the other hand, there are scratches in the paint layer, these will always remain visible.

Initially, scratches leave white cracks in the paint layer, before these later fill with small particles of dirt and shimmer greyish.

Regularly oiled parquet floors do not necessarily have to be sanded

This can destroy the entire aura of a visually attractive and comfortable parquet floor.

If you also lay oiled parquet, maintain the wooden floor regularly and always treat it with oil in good time, you will often not have to sand your parquet floor again. This saves costs and effort. In addition, you can protect your hardwood flooring with a suitable floor protection mat in places subject to heavy loads.

It depends on the quality of the coating

If you buy parquet that has been covered with a layer of lacquer, you should always pay attention to the quality of the lacquer.

There are considerable differences here. If, for example, a PU lacquer with several layers is used, you are usually on the safe side.

There are parquet floors with a high-quality lacquer coating where even after 40 years no lacquer peeling is visible.

If, on the other hand, an inferior acrylic lacquer is used, frequent sanding is almost inevitable.

In many cases, an inferior product will sooner or later detach itself from the parquet rods or planks, as the wood always swells up due to changes in humidity and then pulls back together again.

Inferior coating layers are more quickly replaced

Experience shows that inferior quality lacquer always peels off first at the edges of the parquet strips or wooden planks.

What remains are bright areas that show a visible contrast to the areas still sealed with varnish.

And not only that:

the bright spots become larger and larger over time. The special charm of a maintained parquet floor falls by the wayside. Rather, the surface suddenly looks more like a patchwork quilt or simply not well maintained.

At a glance: parquet oils – advantages and disadvantages

  • The naturalness of the wooden floor is preserved.
  • Scratch marks and similar damage can be “repaired” by re-oiling.
  • Surface treatment with oil has a positive effect on the indoor climate.
  • Regular oiling prevents premature renovation. Sometimes soils of this kind do not need to be re-ground at all.
  • However, the maintenance of an oiled parquet floor takes a lot of time.
  • Lacquer gives the parquet a very special shine. There are the gloss levels semi-matt, matt and shiny.
  • The surface is optimally protected from mechanical damage and water by the coating layer.
  • Parquet machined with varnish is predestined for use in the commercial sector and under high demands.
  • In case of visible scratches or quirks, you usually need to completely grind a painted floor to repair the damage.
  • You can no longer feel the wood under the lacquer layer.

The most important question first:
Floating vinyl flooring or better to glue?

On the basis of our relevant experience, we advise against a floating installation of vinyl flooring in almost all cases.

A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations
A floating vinyl floor that has deformed due to temperature fluctuations 😀

Many manufacturers of vinyl floors write in their installation guidelines that the floor must not be installed under windows with strong light incidence or rooms with high temperatures.

What has this fact to do with the question “floating or glued installation“?

Most (click) vinyl floors for floating installation are made of solid vinyl, which can deform even at summer temperatures. Under windows with a lot of light, this happens particularly quickly.

This manifests itself in the formation of “hills” (convex deformation) and can push the ground upwards in the middle of the room.

This can cause doors to no longer open (!) or the floor to become irreversibly deformed. In our experience, therefore, in almost all cases floating installation is to be avoided.

If one also considers the Prices for vinyl floors, incl. Laying coststhe floating installation offers no price advantage compared to the much higher quality and more durable glued version.

Laying vinyl floor floating: advantages

  • fast installation
  • also feasible for laymen
  • very cheap for self-publishers

Floating installation of vinyl flooring: disadvantages

  • High susceptibility to heat
  • Danger of jointing
  • Danger of setting up the individual elements
  • No price advantage over a (much higher-quality) bonded installation by a service provider

The glue vinyl flooring is not the easiest, but the best way to obtain a stable and durable floor covering. However, the preparatory work must be carried out very precisely so that the vinyl flooring can be perfectly glued to the substrate.

The following methods are available:

  1. a full-surface bonding by means of adhesive and tooth filler
  2. gluing with a self-adhesive covering

You can find out right away how vinyl flooring works and what the differences are between the two methods.

Floating vinyl floor piles up
Another floating vinyl floor that would have been better glued 🙂

Prerequisites for successful bonding

Certain conditions must be met in order to glue a vinyl floor in such a way that it lies evenly on the floor without leaving any marks. This includes a clean, cementitiously filled and smoothly sanded substrate. You can find out how to prepare the substrate perfectly here.

If the subfloor is not perfectly levelled and sanded, the vinyl floor may, in the worst case, have dents or waves after gluing.

Then all the effort was in vain… 🙁

The different types of bonding

1. Full-surface bonding

For full-surface bonding, is applied to the well-prepared substrate with a toothed trowel dispersion adhesive (a wet adhesive), on which the 2 to 4 millimetre thick vinyl planks are then laid.

With the so-called “full-surface gluing“, work is always carried out in paths that correspond to a multiple of the width of a plank. What exactly is meant by this, you can see in the following video.

For this purpose, the wet adhesive is applied to the substrate over a large area over the entire width with precision using a notched trowel and, after allowing the adhesive to flash off briefly, placed in the adhesive bed. When gluing full-surface vinyl flooring, work must be carried out quickly, as the wet adhesive no longer adheres properly after 30 to 40 minutes.

How much adhesive apply?

In addition, neither too much nor too little adhesive should be applied to the substrate to achieve optimum adhesion. If you glue a vinyl floor, you do this with a so-called toothed spatula. These are available in different versions. Depending on the size of the “teeth”, different amounts of adhesive are applied. You can find out exactly which tooth size you need from the manufacturer/dealer of your vinyl floor.

The advantages of a glued vinyl floor

Glued vinyl flooring offers numerous advantages, namely this:

  • Solid vinyl is firmly bonded to the substrate, making the floor covering very stable and resistant. This is also the reason why it is used in the shop building as well as in the fair– and event area, among others.
  • Even in the case of underfloor heating, the adhesive vinyl flooring is the best solution, as the low installation height and the firm connection of the floor covering to the substrate enable a direct heat transfer.
  • A glued vinyl floor satisfies the highest demands and offers good room acoustics.

If you want to have a vinyl floor glued as a tenant, you should first obtain the permission of the landlord in order to be legally on the safe side.

2. Vinyl floor with self-adhesive underside

When bonded with a self-adhesive coating, the back of a module or plank is already prepared with adhesive, which is protected by a film. This is simply removed when the vinyl floor is glued, and the vinyl plank is applied to the previously primed underbody.

This technique, which is used for the vinyl floor ingeste, is popular with do-it-yourselfers, as it requires no skill with adhesive and tooth spatula. Nevertheless, extreme precision is required, o.g. when creating the first rows.

In order to lay a self-adhesive vinyl floor in a first-class manner , not only manual skill is required. It also takes a lot of time. Trained craftsmen can do the work very quickly. You will find one of our craftsman’s workshops also in your vicinity.

Laying of self-adhesive vinyl flooring

Before the vinyl floor can be glued to the already prepared substrate, it should acclimatize around 24 hours before bonding in the publishing room, so that it can adapt to the indoor climate.

Determining the direction of installation

Since the door is the main line of sight into the room, the laying process starts from here. The first step is the most important one, as it determines that the first row and the rows following it are laid exactly.

On the back of the plank there is (usually) an arrow indicating the installation direction.

This direction must be adhered to for all planks. The back slide is pulled off a bit and the first plank is placed exactly at the guide.

Then the rest of the film is removed and the plank is pressed to the floor.

Planks that need to be resized are scored with a sharp knife scored and then bent off. The second row of planks is then arranged at least one third offset from the first row.

For solid vinyl, usually no vinyl cutter or similar tool is necessary.

The holes required for the heating pipes are ideally made with a Forstner drill bit (for floating laid vinyl)

With glued solid vinyl, it is possible to square the holes with a cutter, or carpet knife, and break out. At the end, the skirting boards are screwed to the wall.

This is what we need to glue to the vinyl floor:

  • An adhesive spatula
  • Adhesive
  • A sharp cutter knife or a floor laying knife with trapezoidal blade
  • A bevel/angle or metal ruler
  • A line strike/chalk line or alternatively a line laser

Measuring the room before sticking

Before laying the vinyl floor, we have to think carefully about where we want to place our first 3-5 rows.

Typically, this is e.g. an exterior wall, which covers the entire length/width of the room.

We should also measure whether our wall of choice is at least reasonably parallel to the opposite wall. If this is not the case, the end result may be that you need to make diagonal cuts that do not look very nice.

In case of doubt, it is better to measure and average a little more.

Cut vinyl floor properly for installation

Vinyl floors can be cut with e.g. a large pair of scissors or a carpet knife. Professionals only scratch the surface with a sharp knife and break off the vinyl plank. This is the fastest way to install vinyl flooring.

Do not apply too much glue

The adhesive has a limited time in which it receives its adhesive strength.

If you wait too long, the adhesive must be laboriously scraped off the floor. It is therefore recommended to mark exactly beforehand how far the adhesive should be applied.

Example:

We want to relocate 5 rows at the same time. Let’s assume a plank has a width of exactly 17 cm. So we draw a marker that is 17 cm x 5 wide (85 cm).

So we apply the adhesive to a track of exactly 85 cm width.

We then lay our first 5 rows of the vinyl floor on the adhesive bed. Then we draw the next 85 cm and so on.

Bonus Tip #1:

After each track that was laid, the flooring should be pressed again.

For this purpose there are, for example, special metal rollers, which are also used for laying carpets. Such rollers can usually be rented from any hardware store.

Alternatively, a board can be wrapped with a towel, with which you can then rub the freshly laid vinyl floor “along“.

Bonus Tip #2:

Even professionals it happens during installation that some adhesive gets onto the vinyl floor.

However, instead of washing it off immediately, it is better to wait until the adhesive has dried.

When washed off, the adhesive only spreads more and is difficult to remove from the joints later. If, on the other hand, it is left to dry, it can usually be removed easily after the vinyl floor has been laid .

Bonus Tip #3

If you need to interrupt the vinyl floor laying for several hours or days, remove excess adhesive from the substrate.

To do this, it is best to take a wooden board with a straight edge and press the excess adhesive flattened on the floor.

This is particularly important in the area of the edges of the vinyl that has already been laid. Otherwise, the glue must be scraped off with a scraper the next day.

Parquet is a natural material, wood can react sensitively to strong temperature fluctuations. You can prevent this by not processing parquet immediately after purchase and transport. The material must be acclimatised to room temperature before laying. Store the planks (in their packaging) in the room where they will later be laid. The storage period is at least 48 hours. The surface should be even.

Important so that the properties of the parquet are not affected: The room temperature should be between 17 and 25 degrees Celsius at most. If the room has floor heating, the temperature of the floor heating must be at least 15 degrees and at most 20 degrees. Ideal is an air humidity in the range of 50 to 65 percent. After installation, the parquet is much less sensitive. Correct storage prevents the elements from warping or swelling before installation. If the parquet is stored for a longer period of time, room temperature and humidity must be checked regularly.

Underfloor heating is considered a comfortable heating option.

No disturbing radiators as well as a pleasant and even heating effect are the big advantages.

However, if the underfloor heating is used at the same time as a parquet floor, problems may occur.

By following important instructions, it is possible to avoid the disadvantages and enjoy the advantages of underfloor heating without restrictions.

A professional advice is useful to find out which parquet is suitable for underfloor heating.

To ensure that hardwood flooring and underfloor heating are compatible with each other, it is important to choose the right hardwood flooring and the type of parquet.

One should already consider all factors before the buy parquet.

The parquet adhesive used and the correct temperature setting of the underfloor heating also play an important role.

In order to ensure that the hardwood flooring shows to its best advantage in underfloor heating and does not have any negative effects, the advice of a specialist is required.

The professional knows the requirements:

  • What is important for laying parquet if underfloor heating is planned?
  • What must be observed when laying planks so that the underfloor heating can work properly?

The best parquet for underfloor heating

Parquet flooring and underfloor heating can get along well if important points are clarified in advance.

Underfloor heating must be a hot water heating system. Electric heating systems are not suitable.

The second question deals with the choice of suitable parquet as floor covering. Here, the type of wood is decisive.

Wood generally conducts heat only slowly.

With a higher raw wood density, however, the heat conduction can be improved. All tropical woods are among the woods with the highest density. These include, for example, the well-known teak wood, but Jatoba, Merbau and Wenge are also well suited.

If tropical woods are used for a parquet floor, the wood should come from sustainable forestry. Certified quality seals such as FSC and PEFC make the decision easier.

In the case of domestic woods, there are also wood types that are the right choice for hardwood flooring with underfloor heating.

Wood species with a high raw wood density include oak, pear tree, walnut tree and cherry tree.

These types of wood have a favourable swelling and shrinkage behaviour.

Coniferous woods such as fir or spruce are not recommended.

Caution also applies to beech, because beech wood reacts very strongly to changes in temperature and humidity.

Dry room air is also a risk factor for beech parquet. The installation of underfloor heating increases the negative effects.

With beech hardwood flooring in combination with underfloor heating, large joints inevitably occur g>.

How thick should the parquet be with underfloor heating?

The thicker the parquet is, the longer it takes to heat the surface.

Parquet is available in different thicknesses and designs.

In order for the wood to match the underfloor heating and to achieve good heating performance, a thinner parquet is much better.

Very good results can be achieved with an 8 millimetre thick mosaic parquet, whereas a 22 millimetre strip parquet is less suitable.

If the wood surface heats up only slowly, some owners of underfloor heating systems reach for the controller and set the flow temperature higher. This can lead to damage to the wood, or the adhesive, because the water temperature of the heating system must be adjusted to the special properties of wood and adhesive.

Parquet with underfloor heating: The choice of the right laying method

If parquet is to be laid on underfloor heating, always use the full-bonded installation, because the floating installation has disadvantages in this respect.

A thin layer of air is often created between the insulation underlay and the parquet during floating installation.

Small unevenness or bulges in the floor are the cause.

This leads to an increase in thermal resistance.

The heating of the surface takes correspondingly longer. These risks and disadvantages do not exist with full bonding.

For this reason, parquet should always be glued over the entire surface of underfloor heating systems by a specialist company. With glued parquet, the heat of the underfloor heating is transferred directly into the floor covering.

The formation of joints in hardwood flooring with underfloor heating

Wood is a natural material that always works.

By using underfloor heating this effect can be reinforced. The wood dries out and joints can form.

This risk can be minimized by choosing a suitable parquet floor. With a finished parquet the risk of joint formation is lower. Finished parquet consists of several layers that are glued together. This makes the parquet more stable and keeps its shape better than solid parquet.

The right adhesive for the full-surface bonding of hardwood flooring with underfloor heating

When the parquet is glued, the temperature must not be too high. The parquet adhesive only holds well if the prescribed temperature is not exceeded.

The professional for parquet laying knows the limit values and points them out in order not to endanger the interaction between parquet and underfloor heating.

The choice of temperature for underfloor heating

To ensure that neither the parquet nor the adhesive bond is damaged, the floor temperature must be monitored.

A specified maximum value must not be exceeded. The decisive factor is the flow temperature of the underfloor heating.

It must be set so that the specified maximum value is never exceeded. If the floor becomes too warm, irreversible damage to the parquet can occur. The expert is also the right address for other questions concerning hardwood flooring. It provides information, for example, on the choice of suitable parquet for underfloor heating or on current parquet prices.

Air humidity, underfloor heating and parquet

With underfloor heating, the room climate is better during the heating period than with conventional heating.

Nevertheless, dry room air may still be present. Together with the heat effect of the underfloor heating, which is in direct contact with the parquet, impairments of the wood are possible.

Regular airing and good parquet care help to prevent damage. Under certain circumstances, a humidifier is useful to improve the indoor climate.

Unlike conventional floor coverings, with parquet the correct cleaning and care is extremely important.

With the right care measures and cleaning adapted to the requirements of the parquet, the floor will remain fresh, clean and always well maintained.

Cleaning and maintenance of parquet is not difficult if some rules are followed. Wood reacts sensitively to moisture, so when cleaning parquet, care must be taken to ensure that the floor does not get completely wet.

The cleaning utensils also play a role, so that the parquet can be maintained without causing damage. With good equipment, cleaning is relatively effortless.

Recommended product for cleaning sealed parquet:

Basically, when cleaning parquet, a distinction is first made between sealed or oiled parquet.

The second consideration: Do the wooden floorboards need to be cleaned thoroughly or is it sufficient to remove dust and crumbs? Now and then, more extensive measures are necessary if the parquet is to be maintained and treated well.

Parquet and vacuum cleaner: Is the vacuum cleaner allowed to clean the parquet?

Parquet floors may be vacuumed if the vacuum cleaner has a special hard floor nozzle.

This ensures that the parquet floor is not damaged.

You should be careful when handling the vacuum cleaner – especially if it is a floor vacuum cleaner. With handheld vacuum cleaners, only the nozzle comes into contact with the floor.

It is also advisable to use a small cordless vacuum cleaner, recommended for example in households with children, if crumbs fall to the floor frequently.

Otherwise, a soft mop is sufficient for removing dust and crumbs, with which crumbs and dust lint can be quickly removed. The use of a steam cleaner is only recommended in rare cases.

Cleaning sealed parquet: This is how the sealed wooden floor becomes fresh and clean again

In addition to dry cleaning, wet cleaning is a further component of parquet cleaning.

Sealed parquet is more sensitive to water than oiled parquet. The professional advice is that a sealed parquet floor must not be exposed to too much water.

Water can creep under the parquet sealing. The wood can swell in the worst case.

Grey veils can form at the joints of the parquet, other unsightly discolourations are also possible.

If you want to clean hardwood flooring damp, you should pay attention to the note “damp fogging“.

This means that the mop or cloth must be wrung out thoroughly and only slightly damp.

Under no circumstances should puddles form on the parquet floor. The mop contains the right amount of moisture if the floor dries again immediately.

Water without additives is suitable, but you can also use a suitable parquet cleaner for cleaning the parquet.

Important: The best choice is a parquet cleaner recommended by the parquet manufacturer. Please do not experiment yourself!

Certain cleaning agents are even extremely harmful. Vinegar cleaner may be used e.g. never, it can lead to discoloration which cannot be removed.

If there is particularly heavy soiling, use an intensive cleaner to clean the parquet.

Here too, the manufacturer’s instructions must be observed. The room should be well ventilated during and after cleaning.

Sometimes liquids can be spilled. Be it from carelessness while watering flowers or through a fallen glass. In this case, water and other liquids should be absorbed as soon as possible. This way nothing can penetrate the parquet.

Clean hardwood flooring properly
Clean the parquet properly with a mop

Clean oiled parquet: Tips for careful cleaning

Even oiled parquet should not get really wet, but in principle a little more water is allowed when cleaning parquet.

The ideal cleaning agent is a special wood floor soap.

Follow the instructions on the packaging. The wooden floor soap may foam when cleaning the floor, damage or grey haze does not occur when using the soap.

The components of the wood floor soap have positive effects for oiled parquet.

The soap contains not only cleansing substances, but also caring oils and waxes. In this way, the floorboard floor receives the right care with every cleaning process.

If there are only a few traces to be removed, a slightly damp mop without detergent is sufficient, but cleaning should not be carried out over a long period of time exclusively with water.

Good ventilation is also important for oiled parquet. After damp cleaning, the parquet floor must dry before it is walked on again so that no footprints remain.

Caring for sealed parquet: How to preserve the beauty of the parquet

Sealed parquet remains permanently beautiful with the right care measures.

It is advisable to lay the parquet immediately after the floor if a special initial maintenance is used.

This measure should also be applied after the laying flooring.

The parquet manufacturer recommends products that are suitable for parquet maintenance. Special products are also useful for ongoing cleaning and care.

There are two possibilities here:

  1. You can use a combined wipe care, in which case the care product is already integrated.
  2. Alternatively, if only a cleaning agent is used, a parquet care product should be applied approximately every four to six months.

In rooms with heavy use, for example in commercially used rooms, special care is required more often.

Maintain oiled parquet: The requirements of an oiled parquet floor

If you want to maintain oiled parquet, you can opt for a wood floor soap right away.

The oils and waxes it contains are sufficient for normal care. In addition, the floor may be treated with a special maintenance oil. It makes sense to apply a maintenance oil about once or twice a year when caring for your parquet floor.

If the ongoing maintenance cleaning should only be carried out with a conventional parquet cleaner, the maintenance measure with maintenance oil is necessary more often.

A cotton mop is very well suited for applying the care oil.

Cleaning heavily soiled parquet

If the parquet floor is extremely dirty, a specialist company is the right place to go. You can rent polishing machines or hire the expert who will clean the wooden floor with the appropriate equipment and intensive cleaning agents and bring it back to life.

When does one have to re-oil parquet?

The purpose of re-oiling is to maintain the resistance of the parquet. The “untreated” character is shown to its best advantage, but the parquet needs the right care with re-oiling.

Re-oiling is recommended about once a year. For a very lightly used floor, treatment every two years is sufficient.

Floors that are subject to heavy use should be oiled more often. In public buildings, this can even happen once a week.

Before re-oiling, the floor must be thoroughly cleaned (remove all removable objects such as carpets or floor protection mats etc.). The floor can be wiped with a damp cloth. For heavy soiling, but also simply as care, you can use a special wood soap.

After cleaning, the floor must dry well for at least five hours. Only then is the care oil applied. For re-oiling, the oil is also available in spray form.

The applied oil must be well absorbed, then the floor is polished. No remains of the oil should remain on the ground. A good wood care oil ensures that the wood is antistatic and resistant to dirt. The floor is given a matt, silky shimmer.

The floor covering plays an important role in interior design. Both the appearance and the practical features should match the function of the respective room. There is a wide range of options to choose from. parquet and laminate are particularly convincing because of the large selection of surface designs.

While parquet is made of real wood, laminate is made of plastics.

The surface can be deceptively similar to real wood.

However, laminate is also available in many other design variants, so that it can be used to imitate a tiled floor, for example.

But which floor covering is the right one when it comes to living spaces and wet rooms? Is parquet or laminate flooring better suited for furnishing business premises? For the decision “parquet or laminate” it is important to know the differences and special properties as precisely as possible.

What is laminate made of? Interesting facts about material and production of laminate

Laminate, the short name for laminate flooring, is a composite material based on plastic.

These are thermosetting plastics, i.e. plastics that cannot be deformed after curing.

Several layers make a resistant floor covering. The decor can be designed in almost any desired look. Laminate flooring with a wood look is a frequent occurrence.

The top layer is a protective layer consisting of a thin paper soaked with a melamine adhesive.

Underneath is the decorative paper that gives the laminate its appearance.

The lower layers are applied to a carrier plate and firmly bonded.

The carrier board is a particle board, either MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) or HDF (High Density Fibreboard).

The bottom layer is a backing layer of paper or plastic to prevent deformation.

The thickness of a finished laminate board depends on the number of layers and the thickness of the carrier board.

Laminate floors are available in different qualities. Basically, laminate is versatile.

In order to find the right laminate for a particular application, it is helpful to divide the material into load classes.

The higher the load class, the more resilient the laminate flooring is.

Laminate or hardwood flooring: the main differences

The main difference between laminate and parquet is the basic material.

Laminate is made of plastic, while parquet is always made of pure wood.

This distinction has an impact on the usage properties.

Parquet is – besides many other good properties – extremely durable.

High-quality laminate also has a long service life. However, if a laminate floor is replaced, the question of disposal arises.

While wood poses no problems, plastics are difficult to dispose of. Anyone wanting to buy laminate or parquet should also think about sustainability and disposal.

The decision to use laminate as a floor covering can still be the right one. The durability of a high-quality laminate floor with a high stress class makes the flooring ideal for commercial areas.

Cheaper laminate variants are the optimal choice for furnishing a rental apartment.

What advantages does parquet have over laminate?

Parquet is sustainable and durable.

This advantage is particularly evident in the fact that a parquet floor can be renovated very well.

Scratches and dents in the laminate flooring are permanent, parquet forgives damage with its good renovability.

Even after prolonged use with visible signs of wear, a parquet floor can be sanded down and resealed or oiled, which is not possible with laminate.

Anyone who attaches great importance to an authentic look will make a decision with a parquet floor:

Traces of use do not necessarily have to be disturbing, but they do give the real wood flooring character.

Wood has a warm appearance. Laminate can imitate this effect purely optically, but the floor itself is cold.

Parquet on the other hand always feels pleasant. A parquet floor is warm to the feet. A floor covering made of real wood has a positive effect on the room atmosphere.

The indoor climate clearly benefits when the floor is made of pure wood. Oiled parquet floors in particular can even absorb odours from the room air due to their breathable surface.

Wood is a renewable resource. With parquet that comes from sustainable forestry, every builder makes a significant contribution to the protection of the environment.

Moreover, wood is unique. It is possible to imitate a special grain in a laminate floor. In a direct comparison parquet or laminate, however, wood as an original cuts better off.

Parquet or laminate flooring: For which applications is laminate better?

Laminate flooring is very suitable if the rental apartment is to be given a new floor covering.

The good value for money speaks for itself, because laminate is cheaper than parquet.

The prices for parquet are higher, but the quality also speaks for this.

Laying laminate is quick and easy – do-it-yourselfers also get on well with laminate.

Laminate is, however, not suitable for damp rooms, e.g. the bathroom or laundry room. Moisture causes laminate irreversible deformation.

Laminate is well suited for heavily used areas in commercial properties. The hard-wearing floor covering fits in department stores and smaller shops, in hotels and restaurants.

Laminate flooring also makes sense in offices and administrative buildings as well as in social facilities, for example in a day-care centre for children or a retirement home. However, especially in offices, both parquet and laminate should be protected with an office chair underlay.

For which areas should you choose parquet instead of laminate?

Whether parquet or laminate makes more sense depends on the area of application, but also on your own expectations.

Parquet has a noble aura. A parquet floor is of high quality, and accordingly it is also very effective in demanding areas.

In the house and in the apartment parquet is suitable for all areas. Parquet flooring not only fits in the living room, bedroom and children’s room, but also in the kitchen and can even be laid in the bathroom. A floor made of real wood is a perfect match for a healthy lifestyle.

Anyone who has planks laid can count on a high-quality, sustainable floor covering.

In commercial areas, parquet is always the right choice when it is a elevated ambience.

The small, fine boutique, the cosy café or the elegant lounge area of a hotel receive a pleasant and harmonious overall effect with a high-quality parquet floor.

Parquet flooring also makes an excellent impression in a law firm, in a stylish office or on the executive floor.

The differences in laying: How to lay parquet or laminate

For the laying of hardwood flooring the skills of a specialist are required.

For parquet there are options, it can be glued with parquet adhesive or laid as a floating installation.

This alternative does not exist for laminate, where a floating installation is always necessary. Laminate works hard and must be exposed. The advantage is the quick installation, the disadvantage is the higher impact sound.

What is better suited for underfloor heating, parquet or laminate?

For underfloor heating, a glued floor is much better due to the higher heat transmission.

Since laminate must not be glued, parquet is the right choice for underfloor heating.

Many of our customers are concerned about the question of whether vinyl soils contain harmful substances, which could harm health in the long term.

Vinyl flooring, for example, is suspected of being a heavy burden on the environment already during production or of containing harmful plasticizers.

This article explains:

  • how the different types of flooring are produced,
  • what they consist of,
  • which substances are actually contained
  • and for what reasons vinyl floors are generally harmless to health

Environmentally friendly vinyl floor without pollutants

Especially the European vinyl flooring manufacturers have faced up to their responsibility in recent years and put a lot of development work into the production of environmentally friendly vinyl floors.

The objectives were, among other things, to make the coatings as climate neutral as possible and to equip them in such a way that they do not harm the environment during disposal.

Today, there is a huge selection of hard-wearing, extremely easy-care vinyl floors that do not contain any plasticizers that are harmful to health, such as phthalates contained in conventional PVC.

The development has now even progressed so far that some producers offer so-called organic soils with softening components from rapeseed oil that meet the strictest EU specifications.

Vinyl Floor: Health & Pollutants
Vinyl floors made of full vinyl are harmless to health. So harmless that you can eat on it.

Features of easy-care vinyl flooring in terms of health

As early as the 1980s, the testing procedures of independent and state institutions were tightened and the production processes of modern PVC floors were drastically improved.

Since then, not only have the properties of vinyl soil improved with respect to health and the environment, but also its properties have improved. Due to their composition and surface structure, advanced vinyl floors are extremely hard-wearing, slip-resistant, footfall sound absorbing, hygienic, anti-allergic and easy to clean.

Neither toxic ingredients nor dangerous plasticizers endanger health, so a vinyl flooring without harmful substances can be laid without hesitation in living rooms, bathrooms, children’s rooms, doctors’ surgeries, hospitals and other public facilities. In addition, the diverse designs leave plenty of room for the various design options.

Homogeneous or heterogeneous: Which vinyl floor is better for health?

Homogeneous Vinyl Floor & Health

Homogeneous floor coverings made of solid vinyl are usually produced as sheet material. Because they consist of only one material composition throughout, experts often speak of so-called single-layer coverings. A single-layer vinyl floor without pollutants consists of about 55 % PVC, fillers, additives and pigments. In a special mixing process, the components are mixed together and then formed into webs by means of rollers under the influence of strong heat.

Heterogeneous Vinyl Flooring & Health

In comparison, heterogeneous coverings consist of several layers, mostly bottom support layers such as HDF or MDF and an upper wear layer. The upper layer consists of the components already mentioned and is mainly responsible for the useful life. The carrier layers are enriched with chalks, fillers, additives, stabilizers, sometimes also with formaldehyde.

Vinyl Floor Health & Pollutants
Vinyl floors are perfect for children’s rooms: durable, robust and harmless to health.

Conclusion regarding health and the environment:

Although a floor with a carrier layer such as click vinyl may contain formaldehyde, for example, neither a homogeneous nor a heterogeneous constructed vinyl floor has a detrimental effect on health. In addition, a vinyl floor produced in the EU contains so few pollutants in permissible quantities according to the directive that it does not pose a problem for the environment either during production or disposal.

Full vinyl without pollutants vs. vinyl floor with carrier layer

Other major advantages and disadvantages

Although a heterogeneous vinyl flooring does not pose a risk to health any more than sheet material, it is clearly inferior to homogeneous floorings in terms of durability and water resistance .

That is why so-called (mostly heterogeneous) click vinyl floors are mainly used in the private sector or in less stressed rooms. By contrast, homogeneous vinyl floors made of solid vinyl are extremely hard-wearing and, in the case of professional vinyl flooring, are laid using adhesive absolute waterproof. This makes them the ideal choice for highly frequented private rooms, kitchens, wet areas such as showers and baths as well as for public facilities such as schools, doctors’ surgeries or hospitals.

Vinyl floor without pollutants: recognition features

Vinyl floors manufactured in the EU are subject to strict legal requirements.

Plasticizers in the vinyl flooring that could be potentially hazardous to health, such as phthalates or other harmful additives are prohibited. Well-known manufacturers guarantee that their vinyl flooring is harmless to health and the environment with the corresponding packaging information, data sheets and test seals.

In addition, it is recommended to purchase the floor covering from a certified manufacturer in an authorised specialist trade or from a specialist installation company that is familiar with all the properties.

Vinyl Floor: Health & Pollutants
Full vinyl is bonded with solvent-free adhesive and is harmless to health.

High-quality, durable vinyl flooring for health and environment

Customers who want a durable, long-lasting hygienic vinyl flooring should opt for solid vinyl and commission a specialist company to carry out the professional laying using the wet adhesive method.

The main reasons are:

  • Vinyl floor without pollutants, in accordance with strict EU directive.
  • Solid vinyl is guaranteed to contain no formaldehyde, which is why a professionally installed, homogeneous vinyl floor is more beneficial to health than a click floor with HDF/MDF backing.
  • As a rule, vinyl planks are glued together. A specialist company uses solvent-free adhesives in accordance with EU regulations. If, in special cases, the use of a different adhesive should nevertheless be necessary, the installation company will explicitly point this out to the customer or suggest an alternative.
  • On request detailed on-site sampling.
  • A professionally laid vinyl floor meets the building regulations.
  • Fast, clean installation including careful site cleaning and cleaning.
  • Extensive warranty claims.
  • From consultation to planning, punctual delivery and professional installation: Everything from one source at a fair price-performance ratio.

Professionally laid vinyl flooring: a plus for health and money

Due to their properties and the low installation height vinyl floors are ideal for renovations.

A vinyl floor without danger to health can also be laid on underfloor heating.

Whether private premises, business premises, medical facilities or public areas: A laying specialist company is very familiar with the peculiarities of every laying situation and is therefore the ideal contact partner when it comes to attractive floor coverings without pollutants.

Due to many years of experience and continuous further training, our professionals not only have a trained eye for the optimal design, they also dispose of your old flooring if necessary, prepare the substrate optimally and use the adhesive suitable for the installation situation.

Properly laid vinyl flooring means health and lifelong service

With their professional service, the experts always guarantee a professional execution as well as an optically perfect, long-lasting result. And even after installation, the friendly staff competent contact persons remain available to answer all your questions about your vinyl floor, its health, care or necessary repairs.

Vinyl floor coverings are now among the most sought-after floor coverings in both the private residential and commercial sectors. There are many arguments in favour of buying a vinyl floor in the course of renovation or for new buildings:

In addition to excellent mechanical and hygienic properties, floors made of solid vinyl offer excellent thermal and impact sound insulation, they are extremely durable and easy to clean. In addition, vinyl flooring is now available in numerous designs, making individual interior design possible.

In order to keep the costs manageable and to ensure that the pleasure of the new flooring lasts for a long time, building owners should avoid the following mistakes when buying vinyl flooring purchase:

Error No. 1: Buy click vinyl instead of full vinyl floor

In contrast to a (fixed glued vinyl floor) floor made of solid vinyl, a click vinyl floor vibrates when walked on. In the worst case, it can even rattle with every step. Furthermore, click-vinyl flooring with HDF support is unsuitable for heavily frequented rooms and for damp rooms because moisture can penetrate through the click joints, which leads to swelling of the floor over time.

Solid vinyl planks, on the other hand, are firmly bonded to the substrate, are tightly sealed at the wall edges and thus resistant to wiping water and other liquids. Furthermore, the very low installation height and the lower price compared to click vinyl in comparison to click vinyl purchase of vinyl floor planks made of solid vinyl.

Look out! Some versions of the Klick vinyl flooring, which can be bought in the DIY store, are in fact cheap laminate versions that only have a vinyl cover. This so-called vinyl laminate neither has the advantages of vinyl flooring nor can it be laid dust-free and hypoallergenic!

Buy vinyl flooring and get advice from the professional

Error No. 2: Buy cheap goods from the DIY store instead of tested quality vinyl flooring

Modern quality vinyl floors from the specialist not only offer an immense variety of designs, they also contain no plasticizers that are hazardous to health or other harmful substances.

They have an above-average service life and can be easily recycled. Flooring professionals work together with renowned manufacturers who exclusively sell products with test marks and building authority approvals. However, building owners who buy cheap vinyl flooring in DIY stores risk buying a product that exceeds the allowable emission values.

In addition, self-adhesive planks from the DIY store contain plasticizers which, although not in the vinyl itself, are hidden in the adhesive tapes “, for example. In addition, experience has shown that these tapes stay very poorly, so that a vinyl floor from the DIY store can peel off again by itself after a while. Experts therefore generally recommend the installation of solid vinyl flooring with wet adhesive , which will last for decades even under heavy loads.

Error No. 3: Buy vinyl flooring with wrong usage class

Floor covering made of solid vinyl can be used almost everywhere. A prerequisite, however, is that the correct use class according to DIN EN 685 is observed for the vinyl flooring purchase.

Is the product of your choice exclusively for private use, can it withstand commercial stress or is the soil suitable for permanent industrial use?

What about the classification, the frequency of use and what is the guaranteed service life with the appropriate load?

What laymen sometimes find difficult, a flooring professional can see at a glance due to his training and experience! Since the different qualities differ in some cases considerably in terms of their price, it is worthwhile for cost reasons alone to buy quality vinyl flooring with the appropriate service class from a specialist company.

Error No. 4: Buy vinyl flooring without proper sampling

Human imagination is limited. Therefore, sampling vinyl flooring before purchase, directly on site, at home, in commercial premises or in public facilities offers many advantages.

The customer can look directly at the different designs, feel different haptics and match colours and patterns perfectly to the local and existing furnishings. In addition, the customer is given detailed advice on the qualities of the necessary accessories, such as adhesives, accent strips or silicone joints, and can help determine components and colours. Serious specialist companies usually offer a pre-sampling directly on site. This not only saves time and effort, but also a lot of money.

Buy vinyl flooring and view patterns

Error No. 5: Buy vinyl flooring and dispense with professional publishers

Customers who buy a quality vinyl floor should know that the substrate for full-surface bonding must be absolutely clean and level. This usually requires several work steps, such as sanding, filling and priming. Only in the last working step is the adhesive, which matches the floor, evenly applied to the substrate using a toothed spatula and the vinyl plank glued at the correct size and angle.

A laying expert knows exactly which work steps and which materials are required. He has special training, the necessary tools and years of experience. These components guarantee an attractive, durable result, without unevenness, air pockets or waves in the floor.

Error No. 6: Vinyl flooring purchase without service and warranty

From a professional installation company, customers receive, in addition to excellent quality goods, numerous services, such as

  • professional, personal advice
  • On-site surveying
  • individual sampling on site
  • professional preparation of the substrate
  • Proper relocation
  • extensive warranty on the laying work
  • Repair
  • faire, prices that can be tracked at any time
Buy vinyl flooring and get advice from the professional

Buy and have individual design vinyl flooring installed

The purchase of high-quality vinyl floors from the expert offers the great opportunity to realize individual ideas, such as borders, inlays or logos, using state-of-the-art cutting and laying techniques.

Due to the special type of installation, vinyl planks with the same height can be combined with different patterns and colours, islands can be formed, areas can be visually delimited or connected or accents can be set.

On request, the installation professionals offer their customers an all-round carefree package with all the necessary work, such as scheduling, clearing out the furniture, removal and disposal of the old floor covering, advice through to initial cleaning and handover ready for living, at a reasonable price-performance ratio.

Take advantage of the competence of trained experts from the initial consultation to the purchase of vinyl flooring right through to professional installation and contact us today.

Adhesives for glued installation (non floating)

Anyone who decides on parquet as a floor covering must first think about more than just the type of parquet, whether it should be solid parquet or multi-layer parquet.

The choice of the parquet type also determines the way in which the parquet is to be laid.

Solid parquet must be glued down, whereas the laying of the planks can also be done “floating” with finished parquet.

Of course, the floor price certainly plays a role in the choice of the product.

When buy parquet some technical aspects should also be considered. For example, not all types of parquet are suitable for underfloor heating.

Last but not least, the durability of the hardwood flooring also plays a role. Because if you live e.g. for rent, there should at least be the possibility to remove the parquet without leaving any residues when moving out. In this case, with laying parquet the “floating installation” is certainly preferable to gluing.

What does a “glued-on installation” mean?

With “glued installation”, the parquet is firmly and permanently bonded to the subfloor using parquet adhesive.

When purchasing, it is important to remember that solid wood parquet is best glued over the entire surface on a suitable and even base.

It is advisable to have this done by the expert.

There are good reasons for gluing parquet or hardwood flooring planks over the entire surface and firmly bonding them to the substrate.

In addition to certain types of parquet, which cannot be laid in any other way, gluing the parquet guarantees above all a high durability.

Glued parquet made of solid wood is easy to renovate and lasts for many decades even in rooms with heavy use of the floor covering.

The direct and firm connection of the parquet with the subfloor thus stands for a high load-bearing capacity.

What does “floating laying” mean?

In contrast to glued installation, with “floating installation” the individual parquet planks are not connected to the subfloor, but only to each other. The parquet lies unfixed on the subfloor, “floats” thus on this.

The connection between the individual pre-finished parquet elements varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but is usually made by simple click systems.

For the floating parquet installation, therefore, only little manual skill is required. It is also easy to handle even for laypersons. The parquet floor can then be walked on immediately.

Gluing parquet: What are the advantages and disadvantages?

Advantages:

With glued parquet there is no room for movement of the floor and therefore a much lower noise pollution due to impact sound than with floating parquet.

The firm connection with the subfloor ensures that the glued parquet cannot vibrate.

The treading noises are significantly quieter than with floating installation, where the flooring amplifies the sound when it is set in motion by steps or movements.

Parquet glued laid (industrial parquet)
Raw industrial parquet is firmly glued to the substrate. After drying, it must be sanded and sealed.

Glued parquet has a tendency to not to joint formation and material fatigue due to its firm connection with the subfloor.

This means that hardly any cracks can form even under permanent load, into which moisture can penetrate.

Glued parquet is in total very resilient, which significantly increases the service life of the floor covering.

In addition, the parquet can be well renovated during its lifetime and can also be sanded some times over time, if necessary.

Cons:

Glued parquet requires more time during installation and is therefore more cost-intensive.

With glued parquet, it is very difficult or even impossible to correct laying errors after the glue has dried, because once glued, parquet elements can hardly be detached and realigned without damage.

The parquet is not immediately walkable after laying, because the adhesive must first harden. This takes at least 12 hours.

Large quantities of adhesive are required for bonding to the substrate.

Of course, care should be taken to use an adhesive without solvents.

After removing an already glued parquet floor, a reuse is no longer possible.

Also, the removal of the glued parquet can be quite time-consuming.

Accordingly, glued parquet is clearly designed for durability and not for flexibility.

Why glue parquet?

Basically, parquet can be laid or glued as a floating floor.

Bonding has several advantages. Glued parquet is mainly suitable when a very long-term use is planned. This is because the removal of glued parquet is considerably more complicated.

If you live in a rented apartment, you should definitely inform the landlord and ask for permission.

When must parquet be glued? In any case then, if a complicated parquet pattern or a demanding parquet type is planned.

The glued installation technique is ideal for a home with children or in rooms subject to heavy use.

In the laying pattern and in the transition to other rooms, no expansion joints are usually necessary when gluing.

Another factor if the question of when to glue parquet is answered positively: What is important is an adhesive with “healthy” properties, free of solvents and low in emissions.

Advantages and disadvantages of floating installation

Advantages:

The special advantage of floating installation is that it is very easy and quick to do, even by laymen with some skill.

It is only important that the subfloor is level when the parquet is laid.

To ensure this, there is, for example, self-levelling filler. Once the laying work is complete, the parquet can be walked on immediately and the room can be furnished.

Another advantage is the possibility of taking up the floating parquet again if necessary, replacing it if the taste changes, or laying it again elsewhere.

Especially if the parquet is to be laid in a rented apartment, the residue-free removal when moving out is an aspect that should be considered before buying. Floating parquet is the flexible solution here.

Cons:

Floating parquet floors have a lower durability compared to glued parquet floors, as vibrations of the floor covering cannot be avoided.

In the long run, this leads to higher mechanical stress and thus to material fatigue at the element connections.

In the course of time cracks can develop here, through which moisture can penetrate the wood. Floating parquet floors are also more difficult to renovate if they vibrate, e.g. during grinding off.

It should be noted that parquet can only be used for floating installation if it has also been designed and designated for this purpose.

The main disadvantage is the impact sound, which is caused by the fact that the flooring gives way with every step. Like a soundboard, the sound is amplified by vibrations. A impact sound insulation must be applied before floating installation of the parquet on the subfloor to reduce this effect.

With some finished parquet products, the footfall sound insulation is already attached to the individual parquet elements.

Why lay parquet floating?

Floating installation requires little or no adhesive.

This means that there is no need for full-surface bonding to the substrate. Only the individual elements are connected with each other.

The work can be done by do-it-yourselfers and talented laymen. If you use parquet with tongue and groove, the joints can be glued additionally, but this is not not necessary.

If you live in a rented apartment or are planning to remove or replace the parquet floor after a few years, parquet is best installed as a floating floor.

The bottom can be removed relatively easily if necessary. Floating installation is not suitable for solid parquet, this type of parquet must be glued. If, on the other hand, you use multi-layer parquet or ready-to-lay parquet, the floor can be laid as a floating floor. Floating parquet is not as resilient as glued parquet.

Parquet best glued with underfloor heating

Anyone who has underfloor heating does not therefore have to do without a parquet floor. However, there are a few things to consider. Thus, certain types of wood are less and others more suitable for installation over underfloor heating.

Wood species with unfavourable swelling and shrinkage behaviour such as beech and maple should be avoided at all costs, whereas, for example, oak and walnut are suitable.

However, the decisive factor is that with underfloor heating, the parquet should definitely be glued, because only then is good heat transfer possible.

With floating parquet, on the other hand, there is a layer of air between the subfloor and the parquet, which acts like an insulating layer and impairs heat transfer.