Berlin profile

Hamburg profile

Maple skirting board

Beech skirting board

Oak skirting board

Grey skirting board

Walnut skirting board

Walnut skirting board

White skirting boards

The color of your base

To find the right bar for your floor, it’s best to look at some patterns in direct comparison. The color plays a very important role in the selection. Thus, the skirting board can be selected e.g. in the color of the floor. In small rooms, however, this can quickly have a narrowing effect.

A skirting board in the color of the wall (usually white), on the other hand, makes a room look wider (more generous than any other option).

The shape of the skirting boards

The shape of the footboard is a far underestimated factor when it comes to the spatial effect. Both the “style” of your bar and the width of the bar can greatly change the spatial effect.

For example, everyone can immediately recognise the typical skirting boards used for laminate flooring in the low-cost sector. Such a skirting board should never be laid to a high-quality parquet floor.

Traditionally contrazy & no-frills

In most cases, people find traditional profiles, such as the ones described below (Berliner & Hamburger Profile) to be more suitable when it is a plank floor with a rustic effect. Modern floorboards or prefabricated parquet with chamfer / emphasis on the plank look, on the other hand, are usually provided with a simple, white skirting board.

Find the right skirting boards

When selecting the bars, it is important that the cover width is sufficient to cover the edge joint of the parquet. In the case of solid parquet, the edge joint may have been chosen relatively large as a preventive measure due to the swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the wood. In most cases, a width of at least 20 mm must be maintained. A width of just under 16 mm is usually sufficient for finished parquet.

The purpose of a skirting board

Skirting boards should usually cover the joint between the floor and the wall. For wood and laminate floors, this joint is usually up to 15mm – quite a lot. In addition, the skirting board should of course protect the wall from damage during parquet maintenance. It is not for nothing that the noble pieces used to be called “scrubbing bars”.

Massive or veneer skirting boards?

A distinction is also made between solid and veneered skirtings. Both are made of real wood, whereby the “veneer version” is somewhat cheaper due to the low hardwood content. Both variants can be either nailed or mounted with screws. Most skirting boards available as standard oak plinth and beech plinth variants. Always worth considering are aluminium skirtings and the variants listed below.

Possible shapes of your new skirting board

Below we have listed a short overview of the other possible skirting board profiles. Profiles such as the Berliner profile or the Hamburger profile appear to be of the highest quality. Both are available in natural colours as well as in white. The “Berliner” but also the “Hamburger” profile are completely different in their appearance from conventional bases.
In the past they were used in villas, castles and mansions.

Today, these “beautifully ornate” profiles can also be found in old apartments in city centres. The style is particularly suitable for wooden floors such as the plank pattern. Of course, we also have simple profiles in our program, which do not stand out optically and simply cover the edge joint.

Baseboards made of solid wood

The advantage of solid wood skirting boards is their natural appearance. Baseboards made of solid wood also contain once “wilder” areas of wood grain. Thus, a solid bar made of beech wood can also contain very dark stripes or even small branch holes. In contrast to veneered or even “foiled” skirting boards, the massive design also fits rustic floors, which by nature already seem more “uneasy”.

Why solid wood base should be screwed

However, a solid wood footboard tends to change its shape slightly. Just like any piece of wood, the solid skirting board changes its dimensions in the event of fluctuations in humidity. Therefore, they should always be mounted with plugs & screws. This requires a little more effort during assembly, but is the better solution in the long term.

Sockets made of MDF / HDF

The cheapest option is to buy MDF, HDF skirtings. These are pressed wood fibres, which are covered with a foil. Just like laminate floors, the film has the look of a wooden surface. Because only fibres and not whole wooden slats are required for production, this type of skirting board is particularly favourable.

Advantages of plinths & skirting boards made of MDF

]MDF sockets convince not only by their low price. Since they are not made of solid wood, they do not change their dimensions like solid wood. They can therefore be easily fixed with nails or wire pins in the wall. As they are also very flexible, they are also suitable for bridging or laminating slight unevenness in the soil. To do this, simply bend the groin over the floor shaft in question and fix it in the wall at the same time with nails.

Disadvantages of MDF skirting boards

The only known drawback of MDF strips is that the film can easily burst in case of damage. This occurs, for example, when the skirting board is fastened with nails and the hammer slips off. However, it can also happen in hindsight that, for example, a cat or other pets damage the groin with its claws.

MDF Laminate Skirting boards

MDF skirting boards actually come from the laminate manufacturing sector, as they are based on the same material. MDF laminate skirting boards can, however, also be used on parquet floors without hesitation. Only with very “wild” grades with many knots or stripes, the artificial grain of an MDF strip could look unsuitable. For example, if you decide on white bases, this problem does not occur.

Interesting facts about aluminium skirting boards

Aluminium (aluminium) skirting boards are often installed in representative buildings, e.g. bank houses, insurance companies, etc.

Alu footboards also fit perfectly with high-quality parquet floors or epoxy resin floors. The matte appearance of the aluminium strip harmonizes e.g. with the matt surface of an oiled walnut floor.

Important for the assembly of aluminium skirting boards

Alu skirting boards cannot be mounted like ordinary bases. Neither the screwing nor the assembly with nails is possible. Therefore, aluminium skirting boards are mounted with a special “underrail”. This is used for snapping the actual skirting board and is screwed onto the wall beforehand. Then you just click the bar on the rail. You also have to do things differently when cutting the aluminium strips. A special saw blade should be installed in the “cut/miter saw” so that clean cuts succeed and the saw blade does not become blunt. The substrate should also be particularly flat, as real aluminium is not so easy to bend. In old buildings, therefore, better attention should be paid to “hybrid” solutions.

The “Hybrid” – wooden base with aluminium optics

Alu skirting boards are available on wood as a kind of mixed product. This is a deceptively real replica of aluminium, which is pulled over a wooden base as a foil. The advantage: Both the assembly by means of nails/screws as well as the sawing with a normal wood saw blade are possible. In addition, the price is much more attractive than with “real” aluminium skirting boards.

Assemble skirting boards correctly

Because there are various possibilities for the assembly of skirting boards, which do not always have to be suitable in your case, we have described here the most well-known methods.

Mounting skirting boards screwed – Quick Start Guide

The screwed mounting of skirting boards is widely used and very popular, especially because of its durability. In the event of a renovation, the strips can be easily removed and, for example, reassembled without complications after painting. For this, the assembly is a little more complex than, for example, the attachment with nails.

First, the skirting board is cut to the right angle with a miter saw or “crosscut saw”. Then you mark the punch marks at regular intervals. The distance between the holes should always be about 50-60 cm. If too little distance is left, the optics are impaired – if one leaves too much distance, the skirting board is usually not uniform everywhere.

Mounting skirting boards with nails – Quick Start Guide

The much simpler method is the assembly with nails or “wire pins”. Here, after cutting, simply press the skirting board to the wall and put on a nail. The nail is now driven through the groin. One should set tighter distances than with the screwed assembly. A nail should be attached approximately every 20 cm.

If you are not yet so experienced with a hammer and nails, you can also simply place the groin on a hard surface and put all nails on already, or drive some milimeters into the skirting board. This makes the subsequent installation on the wall much easier, because the nail can no longer slip off.

Video: Attach skirting boards with nails

vinyl floor and underfloor heating – a combination that is becoming increasingly popular. Nevertheless, it is a topic that always raises questions. In this article you can find out which vinyl flooring is suitable for underfloor heating systems and what you should bear in mind when laying , so that you can benefit from the advantages of your vinyl floor on underfloor heating in the long term.

A wide range of applications, attractive appearance, easy installation, resistant material properties and much more – the advantages of a vinyl floor are obvious.

Underfloor heating also impresses with numerous advantages such as cost-effectiveness, cleanliness and environmental friendliness.

In single and multi-family houses, the proportion of underfloor heating as a heating system is now just under 50 percent.

It is therefore not surprising that the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is also becoming increasingly popular.

That’s all that matters:

Criteria for vinyl flooring on underfloor heating

While there was a lot of discussion about the suitability of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating in the past, the combination has now proven itself through predominantly positive experiences.

In principle, there is absolutely no objection to the installation of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating, provided that certain conditions are taken into account in advance:

Exact Temperature

The most decisive criterion for laying vinyl flooring on underfloor heating is whether the chosen heating system ensures reliable temperature control.

Unlike other floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet or tiles, a vinyl floor reacts primarily to heat.

If the temperature rises, the material expands strongly, the heat decreases, it tightens again.

Strong temperature fluctuations or too fast temperature rises can lead to unsightly joint formation or permanent damage to the vinyl floor.

Therefore, it is important that the underfloor heating does not heat the vinyl floor too much or too quickly.

The maximum surface temperature of vinyl floor heating should not exceed 27° C.

Hot water underfloor heating vs. electric underfloor heating

The classic version of hot water underfloor heating generates heat by flowing warm water through plastic or copper pipes.

What is often seen as a disadvantage has a positive effect for vinyl floors:

The sluggish lead time of a hot water underfloor heating ensures a slow heating of the vinyl floor and thus protects the material.

In addition, the temperature in the pipes remains relatively constant between 26 and 28° C throughout the heating period.

The flow temperature – i.e. the temperature at which the water circulates through the pipes – has no influence on the vinyl floor and can therefore be quite higher.

Especially with modern low-temperature underfloor heating systems, the surface temperature can be precisely regulated by built-in thermostats.

It should be noted, however, that the installation of a hot water underfloor heating system involves relatively high effort and a certain height must be maintained for the final floor ingesis. Especially in the case of renovation work on existing buildings, the building conditions must therefore be carefully checked in advance.

Otherwise, however, hot water underfloor heating must be used without hesitation for vinyl floors.

Caution is required with electric floor heating systems.

In this variant, the heat is generated by the combination of current and voltage, which leads to a significantly faster and sometimes higher temperature increase than with hot water underfloor heating.

Although modern models also have the necessary technical requirements for temperature control, the installation of vinyl flooring on electric underfloor heating systems has not been recommended before.

Expert Heating installation

In general, the installation of underfloor heating under a vinyl floor exclusively should be carried out by a specialist.

This ensures that the substrate is prepared professionally and that any moisture in the screed has been sufficiently baked out before laying the vinyl floor.

In addition, not only must the construction height on the entire floor area be precise, but also the pipes of the underfloor heating must be installed in such a way that a uniform distribution of heat on the vinyl floor is guaranteed. Even spot heat nests can cause damage to the vinyl floor.

Special Footfall sound insulation

To ensure that the heat from the underfloor heating is ultimately transferred to the surface of the vinyl floor in an energy-efficient manner, the lowest possible thermal resistance of maximum 0.15 m2K/W is required.

In addition to the thickness of the floor and the thermal conductivity of the material, the impact sound insulation or vapour barrier used also affects this value.

For underfloor heating systems on which a vinyl floor is to be laid, special footfall sound insulation is available.

The quartz sand most contained in it stores heat and releases it to the room.

Other insulating materials such as polystyrene, cork or foam, on the other hand, prevent the heat from spreading and are therefore unsuitable for use with vinyl floors on underfloor heating .

Contrary to its previous reputation, vinyl floors achieve excellent results in terms of energy efficiency and heat performance.

Due to the low heat transfer resistance and the good thermal conductivity, rooms with vinyl flooring can be effectively heated by underfloor heating.

Which vinyl floor is designed for installation on Underfloor heating suitable?

If an adequate underfloor heating system has been found and the necessary preparations have been made, the crucial question arises as to the right vinyl flooring.

All vinyl floors suitable for installation on underfloor heating systems are specially marked.

If a vinyl floor does not have a corresponding label, a written confirmation of suitability for underfloor heating from the vinyl floor manufacturer should be obtained prior to installation.

The extent to which a vinyl floor is suitable for use on underfloor heating also depends on the design and the type of installation.

Basically, a distinction is made between vinyl on HDF carrier plates and solid or full vinyl.

Vinyl on HDF is similar to laminate and is floating using a click system. There are also click systems that are made entirely of vinyl.

The thinner full vinyl, on the other hand, consists of homogeneous planks and is only glued to the screed on a full surface.

Types of laying from vinyl flooring to underfloor heating

Basically, all types of laying work to install a vinyl floor on hot water underfloor heating systems.

However, there are differences in energy efficiency, albeit mostly minor.

Solid or full vinyl flooring, which is glued to the surface, is best suited for installation on underfloor heating.

The direct connection between the vinyl floor and the substrate using suitable adhesives and the relatively low material thickness of maximum 5 – 6 mm ensure optimum thermal conductivity.

But also the floating laying of vinyl floors on underfloor heating is possible.

However, in this type of laying, in contrast to the fully bonded installation, a thin air layer forms between the substrate and the vinyl floor, which impairs the thermal conductivity.

In addition, in the case of floating vinyl floors on underfloor heating, a footfall sound insulation is necessary, which additionally affects the heat transmission resistance.

Vinyl floors on HDF substrates, which are usually much thicker than solid vinyl floors, are particularly suitable for installation on underfloor heating less optimal.

In addition to the impact sound insulation, which is already integrated in many vinyl floorboards, an additional vapour barrier is also required for mineral substrates (e.g. cement screed or anhydrite screed) so that rising damp cannot damage the substrate material of the vinyl floor.

In any case, when laying vinyl flooring over underfloor heating, it is essential to follow the manufacturer’s specifications and installation instructions. You will also need a orderly vinyl cutter to place clean cuts.

Laying vinyl floor on tiles with underfloor heating

Often a vinyl floor is also laid on existing tiles, under which there is already underfloor heating.

This also applies in this case:

Even if it is basically possible to lay a floating (click) vinyl floor, it is recommended to use a fully glued full vinyl floor to prevent heat loss.

Is a vinyl floor on underfloor heating Harmful?

A question that until a few years ago was quite justified:

Vinyl floors used to contain harmful plasticizers, which developed toxic fumes when heated, for example by underfloor heating.

Today, however, vinyl floors in Europe are subject to strict conditions, which ensure that the use of harmful phthalates is dispensed with.

Therefore, unless an old vinyl floor is used, the laying of vinyl flooring on underfloor heating has no negative health effects.

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

  • strip parquet:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • ship bottom:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • mosaic parquet:
    8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • lamp parquet:
    6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • panel parquet:
    approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.

Oiled parquet has many advantages, but also needs the right care.

Regularly re-oiling not only makes wear and tear disappear and the hardwood flooring shines in all its glory again, but the floor also receives care and protection. In this article you will learn how to oil your hardwood flooring best and which parquet oils are suitable for this purpose.

What is oiled parquet?

At the same time as the laying of parquet, the question of the optimum surface finish also arises.

This protects the parquet from dirt and moisture and preserves its characteristic appearance.

Parquet can either be lacquered lacquered or oiled or waxed, whereby the latter has become less and less common in recent years. Which surface finish is the best cannot be said in general terms – it depends on the individual demands on the floor. There are certain differences, especially with regard to appearance and care requirements.

Pros and cons of oiled parquet

While lacquered parquet is fully sealed by the lacquer, oiled parquet is “only” impregnated.

This means that the pores remain open and the wood can continue to breathe, which has a positive effect on the indoor climate. The oil gives the parquet its typical silky matte appearance and underlines the characteristic feel of the wood, which improves the naturalness of the floor.

On the other hand, however, oiled parquet has no additional protective layer. Accordingly, loads and daily stresses act directly on the surface of the floor, which is why wear and tear or damage can occur more quickly.

However, any repair work on oiled parquet can be carried out relatively easily – and also partially – on oiled parquet. Even in the case of major damage, it is often not necessary to sand down the entire floor – re-oiling the affected parquet is sufficient in most cases. Overall, the maintenance and cleaning requirement is nevertheless higher for oiled parquet compared to lacquered surfaces.

What oil is available for parquet?

For the treatment of oiled parquet there are various special parquet oils, which saturate the wood surface and provide protection against moisture and dirt.

When purchasing parquet oil care should be taken to ensure that it is as solvent-free a product as possible, as this is better for the parquet and the room climate as well as for the environment.

In principle, between curing and non-curing oils. Curing oils – also known as 2-component oils – contain synthetic resins that allow the oil to dry faster on the one hand and on the other hand, provide more resistance to the treated surface. Many of these parquet oils offer almost the same protection as a sealing of the soil.

Non-hardening oils or hard oils, on the other hand, usually consist of a mixture of different oils, e.g. linseed oil and walnut oil, and are regarded as particularly natural.

The pores of the wood remain completely open, whereby a parquet floor oiled with hard oil ensures a particularly good exchange of air in the room and also absorbs odours.

However, the surface of the parquet remains more sensitive to dirt and damage, which is why the floor should be additionally waxed afterwards.

Alternatively, hard wax oils can also be used, which are now increasingly produced without solvents on a purely natural basis.

The combination of certain oils and waxes forms a thin layer on the parquet, which closes the wood pores to a certain degree and accordingly in the basic features comes close to a sealing.

Thus, the air exchange between wood and indoor air is restricted, but parquet treated with hard wax oil is also easier to maintain.

The range of different parquet oils is very diverse. The differences between the individual products lie in their composition and their life span.

In contrast to lacquer, oil cannot change the gloss level of the parquet – oiled floors are always matt – but the wood can be stained with special coloured oils in a wide variety of nuances.

In general, the color of the parquet becomes a trace darker or richer due to the oiling.

However, parquet can be oiled also white with specially pigmented products, which makes the floor slightly lighter and makes it look as if it has been freshly sanded.

An impregnation of the parquet – and the associated protection against moisture and dirt – is achieved with coloured oils just as with conventional colourless parquet oils.

Many parquet manufacturers either offer their own coordinated parquet oils or make product recommendations for suitable oils. Therefore, before re-oiling parquet, the manufacturer’s instructions for the respective parquet should be observed.

Oils or waxes?

Rubbing wooden floors with beeswax to protect it from dirt and damage has previously been a proven method.

Pure waxed parquet has become increasingly important in recent years. However, the combination of oil and wax is still very popular with parquet in order to underline the naturalness of the parquet in the best possible way and to provide the wood with appropriate protection.

This is because the surface of purely oiled parquet remains relatively sensitive and receives additional protection through the wax .

Both warm and cold wax can be used after the parquet oil has completely dried. While cold wax can sometimes also be rubbed evenly into the wood by hand with a sponge, warm wax requires a special wax machine with which the wax is heated and applied to the parquet at a constant temperature. After the parquet has grown, the parquet must be polished – preferably with a polishing machine.

Parquet oiling: How it works

Regardless of which parquet oil the floor is treated with, should be done when oiling parquet according to the following instructions:

Reworking the parquet

Before the parquet can be re-oiled, it must be completely sanded down. This is usually necessary even with newly laid parquet, if only to remove possible residues of the parquet adhesive. It is important to proceed extremely evenly and carefully and to work your way from coarse to fine on the raw wood in several passes. Only in this way can the oil penetrate deep into the pores of the wood and achieve the desired result.

Since sanding down the parquet is quite demanding, this should only be carried out by experienced do-it-yourselfers on their own.

2. Thorough cleaning

Sanding the hardwood flooring produces a lot of fine dust. Since parquet oil binds it, all surfaces in the room must be thoroughly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, so that a completely dust-free environment is guaranteed.

3. Ensuring proper room conditions

The oiling of parquet requires certain room conditions. For example, the parquet should not be exposed to direct sunlight, so that it does not heat up too much. The room temperature should be between 18 and 25 degrees when the parquet oil is applied.

4. Filling joints

The dust produced by sanding the parquet is also ideal for repairing smaller, damaged joints when mixed with joint filler. For larger joints, however, the use of special joint sealing compound is recommended.

5. Apply parquet oil

Once the preparations have been completed, the actual oiling of the parquet can be started.

First stir the parquet oil thoroughly and then apply it evenly and systematically to the parquet. It is best to start in a corner and work towards the exit. Surfaces with more than 30 m2 should be oiled in sections so that the oil does not dry too quickly.

A scooter or a brush suitable for wooden floors can be used to distribute the oil.

It works even easier when a small amount of oil is carefully poured onto the parquet and smeared with a rubber scraper or a stainless steel smoothing. For corners and edges, it is recommended to use a brush.

As an alternative to applying the parquet oil by hand, polishing machines can also be used. The white/beige polishing pad is used to distribute and massage the oil on the parquet.

6. Allow oil to act

The thinly applied parquet oil then requires around 15 minutes to be able to move into the wood. If parquet is oiled with too much oil, you can stains are created. Therefore, it is important to ensure that there are no oil puddles on the parquet.

7. Remove oil residues

After the start-up time, the excess oil is removed with dry, lint-free cotton cloths.

The oil-soaked cloths should then be placed in a bucket of water, otherwise there is a risk of spontaneous combustion. Please take this very seriously. Whole houses have burned down just because a cloth soaked in oil ignited itself.

8. Let oil dry

If sufficient ventilation is provided, the surface is then Night completely dried. If the colour result is not yet intensive enough, the operation can be repeated again.

When is parquet accessible again after oiling?

Parquet flooring can be walked on again carefully around 24 hours after oiling, but furniture should only be set up after 48 hours and carpets should only be laid after one week.

If the parquet has been committed too early, footprints may remain in the surface.

If this occurs, the oil should be wiped away as soon as possible. If the oil has already dried, the place can be rubbed again with oil or sanded slightly.

Even with the mopping of the parquet should be waited at least one week. desk mats, or chair mats should only be re-applied after approx. 14 days.

Parquet re-oiling – how often?

Freshly sanded parquet should in principle be 2 times thoroughly treated with high-quality parquet oil. The time interval to the next After-oiling depends on the type of parquet oil used, the degree of stress and also according to the type of wood.

While oxidative curing oils have to be re-oiled after 1 to 2 years – and even earlier in the case of heavy loads – two-component oils offer longer protection due to the additional chemical reaction and usually only have to be re-oiled every 3 to 5 years.

In order to maintain the protection of the oiled parquet for as long as possible and to delay the need for grinding, especially unwaxed floors should be refreshed at regular intervals with special care oils.

Basically parquet can be laid in any room.

However, there are a few points to consider when planning to lay floorboards or parquet in the children’s room.

The floor covering has a positive influence on the indoor climate. However, it is harder than a carpet and, depending on the type of wood and surface treatment, also more sensitive.

Anyone wishing to buy hardwood flooring and install it in the children’s room should find out in advance about the parquet prices and the many wood species as well as design options and parquet types.

If you want to lay planks, the type of wood can be well matched to the interior.

Then a harmonious overall effect is created – children feel comfortable with the floor and furniture and have a cosy room of their own at their disposal.

If you follow a few hints and tips, you can ensure that the hardwood flooring in the children’s room remains neat and attractive.

For example, it is important to protect the floor so that chair legs or toys cannot cause scratches in the hardwood flooring.

What must be considered for hardwood flooring in the children’s room?

Especially in rooms where children play, do handicrafts, paint and romp around, typical dangers for the parquet can arise.

Many activities take place directly on the floor. This already begins at crawling age and continues until school age.

With small children it can happen that drinks are emptied. Either the child drips around with the bottle or it tips out a cup. Liquids are always critical for hardwood flooring.

Although the surface treatment offers a certain degree of protection, the floor must not get really wet. Water, drinks and other liquids should be removed immediately so that the parquet cannot swell.

The situation is even more critical when the diaper leaks or an accident happens to children who are actually already dry.

Especially oak parquet and acacia wood are sensitive to urine. These wood species contain tannic acid. Dark stains form on contact with urine and cannot be removed.

The only countermeasure is to completely renovate the hardwood flooring and also colour dark. Alternatively, the parquet can also be exchanged at these points. The affected elements are milled out and then replaced by new ones. It is fixed with parquet adhesive.

Children and toys on the floor:

On the one hand, this is a good thing, because a level wooden floor is a wonderful playing surface.

Buildings made of wooden bricks or Lego stand stable, small and larger cars whiz across the ground.

Also the ride in a sliding car is really fun on a wooden floor. However, the beauty of the floor can suffer from such activities.

It is important for parents to protect the floor, but at the same time not to restrict the child’s urge to play and move too much.

Unfortunately it happens from time to time that children hit the floor with objects. This does not always have to be an aggressive behaviour or an outburst of anger. Little children are simply fascinated by the sounds!

Clever parents take precautions and offer the child a good alternative:

If there is a rubber mat or a play mat on the floor and toys to make noise with, both work – the desire to produce really loud noises and the protection of the floor.

The parquet floor is also at risk if older children slide around on the floor with chairs. scratches in hardwood flooring are not uncommon.

The floor also has a great attraction when painting, crafting or gluing. It is therefore important to set up a safe place to paint and do handicrafts in good time.

How can parents protect the parquet when a parquet floor is installed in the children’s room?

The correct surface treatment is an important step to ensure that the parquet floor is suitable.

With an oiled surface the parquet has several advantages. This treatment is more ecological and healthier. The floor is easier to clean clean.

A basic cleaning and re-oiling ensure that the surface is beautiful again.

Even a renovation is more successful. While a abrasive sanding with a material removal of at least one millimetre is required for a lacquered floor, the renovation is more successful with an oiled parquet floor. The material thickness is retained.

To prevent this from happening in the first place, some precautionary measures to protect the parquet floor in the children’s room are useful.

chair and table legs should be fitted with felt glides. This helps to avoid scratches when moving chairs as far as possible.

In the room of smaller children there is often a low table, ideal for painting and handicrafts. Underneath, a flat, simple and inexpensive carpet looks good – but if something goes wrong, the parquet stays clean.

If the first desk with the corresponding desk chair moves into the children’s room, a floor protection mat is a good idea. The mat lies in front of the desk and protects the floor. Even a swivel chair with castors cannot damage the floor covering.

A toy carpet is also very practical. Children love to play on the floor – a colourful play carpet feels pleasant to the touch and also provides ideas for playing.

One of the precautions is that painting and craft materials are not stored in the children’s room. Until the child is big enough to understand that the floor is not a painting surface, crayons, wax crayons and felt pens are better kept outside the room.

The right mix of feel-good atmosphere and floor protection, rules and preventive methods is not always easy – but you should also remember that traces of use on a parquet floor tell a story:

Children live here who are doing well – perhaps a more important fact than an absolutely spotless floor.

vinyl floors are easy to install – and almost as easy to remove again.

However, depending on the age, condition and installation technique of the floor, there are a few things to consider. Learn below how best to remove your vinyl floor and dispose of the residue properly.

What is important when removing vinyl floors

If a room is to be redesigned or renovated, this often includes the replacement of the floor covering.

Vinyl floors are relatively easy to remove yourself, as long as a few important aspects are taken into account.

Laying technique

How time-consuming the removal of a vinyl floor is depends primarily on how it is laid.

Floating or loose laid vinyl floors are easier to remove than glued .

And again, it makes a difference whether the vinyl is fully bonded or self-adhesive.

Age and condition of the soil

The age and condition of the floor also play a role, as the materials used and installation techniques have changed over the years.

While vinyl flooring adhesives used today are becoming more and more efficient and are therefore harder to separate from the substrate, older floor coverings are usually already more worn and brittle, which makes them more easily tear/break when removed.

Special care should be taken with vinyl floors (actually PVC floors) from the 70s and 80s: These may contain asbestos and should therefore only be removed with appropriate protective equipment.

Work preparation

Before starting the dismantling process, it is therefore essential to find out the date of origin of the vinyl floor and how it is attached to the subfloor.

Suitable work clothing as well as any necessary protective equipment (mouthguards, goggles, etc.) – and above all the right tools (cutter knife, spatula, etc.) should also be prepared in advance.

Remove floating vinyl floor

Floating vinyl flooring is very easy to remove as it is not fixed to the subfloor.

In the first – and at the same time most complex – work step the (glued, nailed or screwed) skirting boards are dismantled. Afterwards, the removal of the floor can be started.

Relatively little effort is required for vinyl planks with click system. These can easily be removed row by row and – with the appropriate care – even reused if necessary.

If necessary, the footfall sound insulation and the vinyl floor underlay is removed in a final step, provided that this is no longer required for the new floor covering.

Remove glued vinyl floor

It is a little more complicated when removing glued vinyl flooring.

Although this can also be removed with relatively little effort, adhesive residues usually stick to the substrate and must be removed additionally.

Subdivide floor into individual pieces

If it is vinyl flooring (actually PVC flooring), the floor should be cut into even, narrow strips with a sharp knife or cutter.

If the vinyl consists of individual planks, it can be removed again without prior subdivision.

The individual elements can be grasped more easily with a lever tool or spatula and lifted or detached with less effort.

Ideally, you should start to remove the flooring at the corners by pushing a spatula under the flooring and removing the floor.

It is quite possible that the vinyl will crack again and again and the putty must be reapplied.

Stubborn adhesions can be loosened more easily by heating them with a hair dryer, but electrical spatulas or machine carpet strippers also make the work much easier (ask at the hardware store / rental park).

In addition, special multi-milling machines can also be hired from DIY stores. These are particularly suitable for particularly old coverings and substrates that have been filled several times, as they not only completely remove the vinyl floor including the adhesive layer, but also work their way up to the firm base layer of the subfloor.

Remove vinyl floor from tiles

Often there is already a floor covering underneath the vinyl surface, which is to be uncovered again in the course of renovation.

If, for example, you want to remove a vinyl floor from tiles, a particularly careful procedure is required to avoid damaging them.

Remove adhesive layer

Once the vinyl floor has been completely removed, in most cases an adhesive layer remains.

If a new flooring is laid on top of it, it is sufficient to roughly remove the adhesive residues and then grind it down with a single-disc machine.

If a new bought vinyl flooring is then to be laid, the usual procedure for the preparation of the subfloor is necessary.

However, if the vinyl has been removed to reveal the underlying flooring, the adhesive must be thoroughly removed.

It works best with an electric spatula and a hot-air dryer, which is used to warm up the adhesive residues.

Alternatively, the adhesive can also be moistened and scrubbed with methylated spirit or a turpentine substitute solution.

Dispose of vinyl flooring

Once the vinyl floor has been successfully removed, the remaining residues raise one last crucial question: Where to dispose of?

As vinyl floors are made of artificially produced PVC, they must not be thrown into normal household waste, but disposed of properly.

This is especially true if the material in question is old and contains asbestos.

Vinyl waste can either be delivered directly to material yards or taken away from bulky waste collection.

In both cases, it is advisable to contact the responsible disposal company in good time to find out any restrictions that may apply (size or quantity of vinyl residues) and to arrange a date for delivery or collection.

In addition, the respective waste recycler will provide information on the costs of disposing of the vinyl flooring.

parquet floors are fully in line with the trend in Germany.

This can be seen not least in the offers of the parquet manufacturers. The focus is increasingly on exclusive and individual types of parquet and flooring, which above all rely on the original character of the wood.

A natural surface finish and new interpretations of well-known classics – such as the traditional herringbone parquet – are the trends of the hour for the parquet types.

Overview of the most popular types of parquet

Prefabricated parquet floorboards

Landhaus floorboards are usually made of solid wood.

Alternatively, they are also available as multi-layer planks. Country house floorboards in the form of a 3-layer parquet are sold a lot and are an excellent alternative to “real” solid wood floorboards.

This type of parquet is cheaper. In addition, you save a lot of time thanks to the final treatment already carried out. In addition, the three-layer structure reduces the work of the wood. Only rarely do joints occur between the individual planks joints; and if they do, then only to a very small extent

Popular parquet types: Plank
Popular parquet types: Plank

Solid floorboards

This type of parquet is one of the oldest and most traditional types of wooden floor used in buildings.

Modern solid wood planks – for example made of oak, pine or larch – give a wooden floor a natural character.

As a rule, this type of parquet is laid raw and then sanded down before the surface is treated, for example, with floor oil, wax or parquet lacquer.

In the specialised trade, however, “finished” solid parquet is also available, which has an already applied surface treatment.

Types of parquet: Solid flooring
Types of parquet: Solid flooring

Ship floor planks

Floorboards of this type give your premises a robust look and conjure up a touch of nostalgia in your own home.

ship flooring planks spread a natural comfort and promote an attractive living ambience.

Typically, the ship’s floor boards are arranged irregularly and staggered, whereby three bars placed next to each other always characterize the ship’s floor structure.

Here you can choose between numerous types of wood – such as beech, oak, cherry, birch, ash or walnut.

Popular parquet types: Ship's floor
Popular parquet types: Ship’s floor

mosaic parquet, parallel connection

The name is virtually the program here.

The lamellas always run parallel to each other. This gives the whole room a uniform, symmetrical and calm atmosphere.

Regardless of the wood used, the parallel bracing appears very geometric and orderly.

The mosaic parquet itself consists of thin and small wooden lamellas, which usually have a thickness of eight millimetres and edge lengths of twelve to 16 centimetres. Thanks to its low construction height, the mosaic parquet is ideally suited for laying over a underfloor heating system, because there is hardly any obstruction to the heat transfer.

Popular parquet types: mosaic parquet, parallel bond
Popular parquet types: mosaic parquet, parallel bond

mosaic parquet, English association

This is a type of hardwood flooring where the individual wooden lamellas are laid in the so called English bond.

They lie parallel to each other, but are offset by half of the plank bar. Thus the mosaic parquet always appears calm and visually harmonious. In addition, the mosaic parquet sets rustic accents and spreads a pleasant atmosphere.

Parquet type: Mosaic parquet, English association
Parquet type: Mosaic parquet, English association

Industrial parquet

This type of parquet is also known as upright lamella parquet.

The individual solid wood slats are extremely hard and resistant. This extreme robustness then also ensures a long service life.

But the industrial hardwood flooring with its upright lamellas can also score points in terms of design and appearance.

Architects all over Germany use the special laying optics and lay industrial parquet in commercial and public buildings as well as in modern residential projects.

The lamellae have a width of eight millimetres and a thickness of ten to 22 millimetres.

Industrial parquet is a by-product from the production of mosaic parquet. The slats from the mosaic parquet production are simply arranged upright. This results in the similar product dimensions.

Popular parquet type: Industrial parquet (vertical lamellas)
Popular parquet type: Industrial parquet (vertical lamellas)

Classic herringbone parquet

With the fishbone hardwood flooring thus designated, comparatively thin strips are laid at an angle (90 degrees).

Due to the special arrangement a good stress distribution can be guaranteed. The individual parquet strips for this type of laying are available both solid and in three layers, and can even be ordered with a surrounding fibre.

The method of laying is strongly reminiscent of the fishbones of a fish. Visually, the effect of the light incidence is particularly attractive.

The wood shimmers – depending on the angle of incidence – in different brightness levels.

Popular parquet type: Herringbone parquet
Popular parquet type: Herringbone parquet

French herringbone parquet

The French herringbone parquet, like the classic version, offers a laying pattern with an optically interesting play of light.

However, there is a special feature of this type of parquet: the individual parquet strips are bevelled on both sides by 30°, 45° or 52.5° and then lined up next to each other.

A continuous head joint runs between the respective braid rows in this special herringbone parquet.

Popular parquet type: French herringbone
Popular parquet type: French herringbone

Lamp parquet

There are small, large and so-called maxi-lamp parquet elements. Due to the low installation height, the Lamparkett is often used for renovations.

The individual bars are always glued to the substrate with parquet adhesive.

With the Parquet tapis – these are particularly large lamp parquet elements – the individual elements are nailed as well as glued.

The admissibility of the respective wood for this type of parquet must comply with the standards of DIN EN 13227 (tables one to six).

For example, the wood used must not show any cracks and the ratio of bar width to bar thickness must not fall below certain limit values. This is to ensure the dimensional stability of lamp parquet.

strip parquet

This type of parquet is characterised above all by extreme stability and durability.

This is a solid hardwood flooring with classic dimensions. Strip parquet is generally regarded as a traditional classic among parquet types.

In addition, the strip parquet is extremely versatile and can be laid in a wide variety of patterns to suit almost any style of interior design.

The individual bars are preferably 10 to 22 millimetres thick and around 60 to 100 millimetres wide.

The rod length varies according to individual taste.

Popular parquet types: strip parquet
Popular parquet types: strip parquet

Parquet types: Rough differentiation between solid and multilayer parquet

Basically, parquet is available – roughly speaking – in two different types of parquet: as solid parquet or as multi-layer parquet.

The first variant is made from a continuous and solid piece of wood. This variant can then be further subdivided into special types of parquet, such as industrial parquet, mosaic parquet or strip parquet.

If you want to lay such a hardwood flooring , you must always glue it over its entire surface and only then sand it down afterwards.

Laying is therefore rather difficult for laymen. In this case, it is recommended to commission a specialist to lay the parquet.

Many types of parquet are directly available as finished parquet

If, on the other hand, you want to lay planks , which are designed as multi-layer parquet, this is comparatively easier.

This is because parquet types from this group have already been sanded in advance by the parquet manufacturer.

Also the surface of the individual elements is usually already treated.

This is why these types of parquet are also known as finished parquet. In terms of structure, two to three layers of wood are firmly glued together for the respective parquet types, with only the visible layer consisting of the higher quality hardwood.

Parquet types in multi-layer construction can be laid via click connections

The top layer often covers large areas, as is the case with parquet types such as country house floorboards or industrial parquet.

Alternatively, the top layer can also be composed of individual bars.

This can be observed, for example, especially with parquet types such as the ship floor parquet. All types of parquet with multi-layer construction can usually be laid quickly and easily with the appropriate click connections.

Solid wood parquet types are more resistant and durable

Types of parquet made of solid wood are generally much more robust and durable.

This is due to the much thicker layer of wood, which on the one hand is extremely resistant and resilient and on the other hand can be renovated much more often than parquet types with thinner multi-layer construction.

An example illustrates this. Multi-layer parquet types preferably have wear layers of about 2.5 millimetres thickness. Since a sanding process alone removes 0.5 millimetres of wood, the respective types of parquet can therefore only be processed two to three times with the sanding machine at most.

The prices often differ considerably

The parquet prices vary depending on the production method and quality.

Click- or finished parquet types are usually much cheaper than solid wood parquet types. If you want to buy solid parquet and have a rather small budget available, you should take a close look at the industrial parquet designated in this way. Compared to other types of solid wood parquet this is usually cheaper.

The range of vinyl bases is diverse – they are available not only in countless colours and designs, but also in various thicknesses.

It is not so easy to keep an overview and to make the right choice, especially not.

The following summary of commercially available vinyl flooring thicknesses and their areas of application should help you to make a decision.

What does the vinyl floor thickness depend on?

With regard to the thickness of vinyl floors, two factors must be taken into account: the substrate and the wear layer.

Thickness of the carrier material

As regards the carrier material, a basic distinction is made between vinyl on HDF carrier boards and solid or solid vinyl.

Vinyl on HDF has a structure similar to laminate and is equipped with a click system.

Such a vinyl floor can only be laid floating and has a thickness of approx. 10 mm.

In contrast, solid or full vinyl only between 2 and 5 mm thick, is available with and without click system and is suitable for both floating and glued installation.

The thickness of the base material has an effect on the construction height of the floor, which is particularly important when renovating existing buildings.

If the vinyl floor is laid on an existing floor covering, such as on tiles, thinner variants are particularly suitable.

However, even if the old vinyl floor is removed, the overall height of the existing floor must be taken into account in order to avoid difficulties in tricky places (e.g. door sills). If in doubt, the door must otherwise be shortened.

Thickness of the wear layer

What is commonly understood by the thickness of the vinyl floor refers mainly to the top layer.

This surface, which is usually made of polyurethane, not only determines the appearance of the floor due to the incorporated decoration, but also protects the vinyl primarily against external influences such as wear, damage, moisture, e.g. with vinyl flooring in the bathroom or dirt.

The fact that the vinyl flooring is basically all the more hard-wearing and durable, the stronger this protective wear layer is, seems hardly surprising.

But which strengths are suitable in practice for which areas of application?

Vinyl flooring in practice: Which thickness for which room?

The thickness of the wear layer has a decisive influence on the resistance and robustness of the soil.

Commercially available vinyl floors are available in four different designs:

  • 0.2 mm
  • 0.3 mm
  • 0.55 mm
  • 0.7 mm.

When selecting a suitable floor, the daily stress and strain of the respective room plays a decisive role.

In living areas with low levels of wear and tear, such as bedrooms or offices, floor coverings with a 0.2 mm or 0.3 mm wear layer are completely sufficient.

If the floor is exposed to higher loads, as is the case in corridors, kitchens, living rooms and children’s rooms, but especially also in damp rooms such as bathrooms, the use of vinyl floors with 0.55 mm wear layer is recommended.

These are not only easier to clean, but are also more durable and more resistant to moisture.

Vinyl floors with a wear layer of 0.7 mm are ideal for the contract sector in particular.

Whether office, doctor’s surgery, salesroom or warehouse – floorings with a very high wear layer withstand even heavy loads and street dirt, brisk customer traffic or punctual loads from heavy shelves or desk chairs do not leave marks so quickly. Nevertheless, you should use a office chair underlay.

Slicone sealants for sealing joints in vinyl floors

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Joints in vinyl flooring are not only unattractive to look at, but sometimes also carry the risk of permanent damage. In the following, you will learn what you should therefore already consider when laying vinyl flooring and what you can do if joints in the vinyl floor open up.

What causes joints in the vinyl floor to fall apart

Like many floor coverings, a vinyl floor reacts to different room conditions.

The material works – joints are created or dissolved.

In most cases the reasons for joints in the vinyl floor are either heat or moisture.

Heat

While parquet and laminate floors are primarily sensitive to moisture, vinyl floors primarily react to heat.

The material expands strongly when the heat is affected and reassembles when the temperature drops. The result is diverging joints.

Especially often joints are created in the vinyl floor in rooms with large windows or direct light. The sun’s irradiation leads to a sharp increase in the temperature on the surface – and consequently to the expansion of the vinyl floor.

With darker soils this effect is even more obvious than with brighter soils, as these reflect sunlight better.

But even with underfloor heating systems, the vinyl floor expands more, which is why it is essential to ensure that the surface is not heated too quickly or too highly.

Moisture

Incoming moisture and subsequent drying also cause joints to rise in the vinyl floor.

Especially in rooms with high humidity or direct contact with water (e.g. B. with vinyl flooring in the bathroom) this can cause permanent damage or mould growth.

Which avoids joints in the vinyl floor

Due to its material properties, the vinyl floor needs sufficient leeway to work.

Therefore, it is important to insert a expansion joint at the time of installation. This applies wherever the vinyl floor meets immovable components (e.g. walls, pipes, columns, built-in furniture) or other floor coverings.

This expansion joint serves to compensate for the elongation and pulling of the material and to allow joints to diverge only where it is intended.

The rule of thumb for the edge distance is at least 5 mm or, in large rooms, 1 mm per metre of length.

Vinyl floor gets joints – what to do?

There are several ways to close joints in the vinyl floor. Various products are available from specialist retailers to fill, glue or seal joints.

Elastic materials – e.g. silicone – are best suited to fill joints in the vinyl floor. They remain permanently flexible, which allows the soil to expand accordingly and contract again.

Corresponding joint fillers are available in numerous different colours and compositions. Therefore, they are versatile and are ideal for closing joints in the edge area.

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It can also be used to seal transitions to connection joints in doors, skirting boards or stairs.

Sealing joints waterproof is particularly important for vinyl floors in wet rooms to prevent moisture from entering.

Massively laid vinyl can be easily sealed with silicone, e.g. in the edges and connections to tiles, but this is not recommended for floating floors.

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Whether new construction or renovation – the choice of suitable covering often does not only concern the floor area, but in many cases also includes the stairs.

A vinyl floor is a proven alternative to other materials when it’s covered with stairs, because it convinces in many ways.

The advantages of a vinyl floor staircase

Material

The material properties of the vinyl floor make stairs particularly robust and resistant, even when exposed to heavy loads.

Vinyl floors are abrasion-resistant, UV-resistant and easy to clean, which is particularly important for stairs in hallways or in households with children and pets.

Moreover, vinyl is very soft and elastic, which is easy on the joints when climbing stairs. Allergy sufferers also benefit from stairs made of vinyl floors, as these are antibacterial.

Applications

Vinyl flooring can be laid on any staircase, provided the substrate is clean, level and suitable for full-surface gluing.

The different material thicknesses of vinyl floors allow installation on stairs with different heights.

This is why a vinyl flooring is suitable both as a covering for newly built stairs made of concrete, as well as for the renovation of existing stair flooring made of wood, laminate or stone.

Single shortcoming: Vinyl floors are not weather-resistant and are therefore only suitable for indoor stairs.

Optics

Vinyl floors are available in a wide variety of looks and designs. The range of decors extends from light to dark, from single-coloured to marbled – also wood optics or stone optics are available.

As a result, vinyl floors offer correspondingly creative freedom to optimally integrate the stairs into the room image.

Lay vinyl flooring on stairs: What are the options?

Laying a vinyl floor on stairs requires relatively little effort.

With the appropriate equipment and the necessary craftsmanship, vinyl floor stairs can be quickly and easily renovated or manufactured on their own.

There are basically two possibilities:

  • The stairs to dress up with a classic vinyl floor
  • or special prefabricated stages.

Stairway with vinyl floor dressing

To give a room a harmonious overall picture, stairs can be clad with the same vinyl décor as the rest of the floor. This can consist of either vinyl on HDF carrier plates or full vinyl.

For installation on the stairs, ready-made vinyl floorboards or loose vinyl floor ingesses are tailored precisely to the dimensions of the individual steps (each viewing and treading surface).

Then the adapted vinyl floor elements are attached to the step surfaces.

In the case of full vinyl, a full-surface bonding is absolutely necessary.

Vinyl floors on HDF carriers can also be used with double-sided adhesive tape. Self-adhesive vinyl floors can of course also be attached to the stairs.

It is only important that the vinyl floor on stairs is always permanently connected to the ground, so that nothing can slip.

This applies in particular to vinyl floors, which are generally suitable for floating installation.

The edges, where the visible and tread surfaces collide, are finally clad with (mostly self-adhesive) angle profiles.

Special cover rails ensure visually attractive transitions to other floor coverings. For example, unclean edges caused by the vinyl cutter can be covered.

Vinyl flooring pre-stage systems

Various manufacturers offer various products as installation-friendly solutions for vinyl floor stairs.

Here are some examples:

Tilo

Tilo offers two solutions for vinyl floorstairs.

In the more flexible version, any vinyl floor boards are connected to a suitable step-edge profile by means of a practical click system. Step depth and length do not play a role here, as stair steps can be individually adapted and tailored to the corresponding stair dimension.

The maintenance-free stepped edge profiles are available in two versions (1 x or 2 x wrapped) as well as in all structured surfaces and decors and vinyl floor colours. With their low thickness of 10 mm, Tilo vinyl floorboards are particularly suitable for renovating existing stairs. With cork inlays on the underside of the planks, a vinyl floor impact sound insulation is also already integrated.

Tilo’s compact stair steps make installation even less effort.

Steps are compact for both renovations and new buildings, as they are available for different floor thicknesses and in two formats (for straight and curved stairs).

Hafa Stairs

Hafa has an optimal solution for renovation work on high-stress stairs.

Thanks to the usage class 43, vinyl steps from Hafa can withstand extreme loads and are therefore also suitable for business premises and public facilities.

The modular vinyl renovation stages are available in different decors and five widths, but only with a straight front edge. The vinyl floor stairs are mounted with stabilizing rails and special adhesive.

Primashop

Vinyl levels from Primashop also correspond to the usage class 43 and are accordingly robust.

Due to the high quality standards in cooperation with selected German premium manufacturers, Primashop pursues the motto “professional quality for self-making”.

Available in various design lines, decors and finishes, the stair steps can be configured and ordered online according to individual requirements.

The products in the online shops of Tresabo or Conceptfloor. are similarly structured

What costs can I expect for stairs with vinyl flooring?

No blanket statement can be made about the cost of a staircase with vinyl flooring.

The financial effort depends on the nature of the stairs and the substrate as well as the material or system used.

While the price of cladding stairs with a classic vinyl floor varies greatly depending on the manufacturer and design of the floor, when using a prefabricated system, it is possible to calculate a guideline value of at least 80 to 120 euros per stage.