If an existing floor covering of tiles is to be replaced with parquet, this is generally possible without removing the old tiles.

However, there are a number of important aspects to consider when laying parquet on tiles. The following article will tell you what these are.

Which parquet is for laying on tiles Suitable?

Multilayer parquet is best suited for laying on tiles.

Due to its construction in several layers, less tension is transferred from the parquet to the underlying tiles.

But also the laying of solid parquet is possible in principle. However, in this case it is advisable to use a decoupling pad (e.g. fleece) as a transition between tiles and parquet, as this reduces the voltages occurring.

The best choice for solid parquet is oak, as this type of parquet has relatively low swelling and shrinkage behaviour compared to other parquet types – even in damp conditions – and works correspondingly less.

What is to be done in the preparation of the tiled floor Note?

With the tiled floor itself, it is advantageous if it is as large, stable tiles as possible. Mosaic tiles are suitable for laying of parquet less good, as the many joints make it easy to deformations of the parquet.

Before parquet can be laid on tiles, the floor must be prepared accordingly.

It is necessary to clean the tiles thoroughly in the first step and remove all dirt and residues of care products, otherwise a separating layer may form and the parquet adhesive may not hold properly.

Furthermore, the substrate for laying parquet on tiles must be flat and solid.

Therefore, it is necessary to check carefully whether the existing tiles still adhere accordingly to the substrate.

The best way to find out is to tap every single tile. If hollow-sounding or loose tiles are discovered during this process, they should be removed together with tile adhesive seam and the resulting gaps in the floor filled with filler.

The tiled floor is then sanded and – if necessary – a 2-component epoxy resin primer is applied as an adhesion bridge. This is too smooth on its own after drying to absorb a levelling compound. Therefore the primer must be sprinkled with quartz sand directly during application. This is the only way to ensure mechanical bonding of the filler to be applied afterwards.

The final and decisive step in laying parquet on tiles is theapplication of a suitable levelling compound, with which joints and other unevenness in the tiled floor are levelled.

Only when the substrate is completely dry, flat and solid can the parquet be laid on the tiles. The prepared work requires the greatest care, so that there are no undesirable problems when laying the parquet.

It is therefore generally advisable to have parquet laid on tiles by a specialist.

Parquet on tiles: fully glued or floating Moved?

Basically, parquet can be laid on tiles both full-surface glued as well as floating . In both cases, dismantling is not possible, as the tiles are severely affected by the preceding preparations and are no longer visually appealing.

In general, experts recommend full-surface gluing of parquet to tiles using parquet adhesive, as this type of installation has certain advantages:

Due to the fixed connection with the substrate, fully glued parquet ensures a pleasant kicking feeling and also prevents sound transmission.

Therefore, in this case, footfall sound insulation is not necessary. With floating installation, on the other hand, the parquet only lies loosely on the tiles and thus amplifies the sound. Accordingly, it is essential to ensure effective impact sound insulation for this type of installation.

In addition, a vapour barrier is required for floating parquet on tiles in order to be able to absorb any moisture on the substrate.

It should be noted that the floor construction with floating laid parquet on tiles becomes considerably higher due to the required steam barrier and impact sound insulation than with fully glued parquet.

As a result, there may be unsightly height differences at transitions to other floor coverings or doors may have to be shortened.

In rooms with floor heating, floating parquet on tiles is not recommended. The additional layers have a strong thermal insulation effect and lead to a reduced thermal conductivity of the floor.

There is no right or wrong for the laying direction of parquet.

However, it is crucial that the overall impression and atmosphere of the room are significantly influenced by this. The following article gives you an overview of how the laying direction of parquet affects a room – and what you should consider when making your decision.

Which factors influence the installation direction of Parquet there is?

Basically, a distinction can be made between three variants in the laying direction of parquet:

  • Along
  • Across
  • or diagonal.

Depending on the size of the room, the structural conditions and the light incidence, a room acquires its own character.

Room size

The size of a room can be visually consciously influenced by the installation direction of parquet.

The laying of hardwood flooring on the long side emphasizes the room shape. So if the parquet is laid in the direction of the longer side of the room, the room looks even longer. By laying the parquet across the floor, however, rooms appear wider.

In itself, even wide spaces achieve more depth effect when transversely laid, while narrow, long corridors are optically shortened and widened – and thus appear more even. If, on the other hand, a installation takes place in the direction of space, the room is additionally “stretched”.

In addition to the laying direction, the dimensions of the parquet elements, or the parquet type also affect the visual size of the room.

The following principle applies: The larger the parquet parts, the smaller the room.

If a room is to be enlarged visually, it should therefore be used in return for small-format parquet.

If a room is not to be emphasized in either direction, cube patterns or cassette shelves are optimal. These appear neutral in any room, regardless of whether they are laid parallel to the walls or at a certain angle.

The classic herringbone parquet is also suitable if neither longitudinal nor transversely laid parquet is desired.

Light

In living rooms with windows, the interplay of natural light incidence and installation direction of the parquet also plays a role in terms of the spatial effect.

If the parquet is laid in the direction of the primary light source, the light is optically directed to the centre of the room and refracts less, so that joints in the parquet are hardly visible.

If, in contrast, the parquet is laid transversely to the light source, these not only appear wider, but also joints, shocks and graining of the wood are more pronounced by the refraction of light.

If the characteristic appearance of the parquet is to be consciously underlined, it is therefore recommended to cross-laying, if it is to remain more discreet, longitudinal laying is the better choice. It should also be noted that when the parquet is laid across, not only the texture of the wood is underlined, but also unevenness or possible signs of wear and tear become more visible.

Building conditions

Walls and ceilings as well as the direction of support beams can also have an effect on the optimal installation direction of parquet.

If differently laid room elements cross, the room appears restless, which in turn can have a negative effect on the living atmosphere. Therefore, different directions of laying should be avoided as a matter of principle.

In addition, in nailed dressing floors, such as they are often used in very large rooms, longitudinal direction is preferred, as this meets the spring and shrinkage behavior of the parquet.

In order to be able to allow for the expansion joints required for floating installation, care should also be taken when choosing the direction of installation to ensure that the parquet does not extend beyond door thresholds, but is laid individually in each room.

Laying direction of parquet – a question of taste

Unless special structural conditions make a particular installation direction necessary, design aspects and personal preferences are in the foreground of the decision.

However, since the laying direction of parquet is of great importance in terms of the character and atmosphere of a room, as mentioned above, the final decision should be taken by the owner.

In addition, it can be quite helpful to test the effect of the laying direction on site using several wooden strips or parquet samples before parquet laying or to simulate this virtually on the computer using special interior design programs.

What exactly is a laminate cutter?

There are countless materials to buy in stores today, such as hardwood flooring laminate or vinyl flooring. These materials vary in many ways, not only in terms of resistance and material thickness, but also in shape and size.

It is therefore crucial for the craftsman to always have the right tool available: the best possible laminate cutter. We have put together a whole range of laminate cutters and parquet cutters for you. hand laminate cutters are available in different sizes, which are equipped with a lever.

The first devices of this type were extremely resistant, with them strong and very robust parquet could be worked, but also already laminate floors. Over time, new techniques and materials were developed, and subsequently new models of the hand-held parquet cutter. These are characterized by lower weight, technical innovation and easier handling.

With these new models, a wide variety of parquet floors can be cut comfortably:

  • Solid hardwood flooring,
  • Ready-made hardwood flooring,
  • Solid floorboards,
  • Mosaic parquet
  • or laminate, whatever its thickness or size.

Every hobby craftsman naturally wants to use a laminate cutter that works precisely and cleanly. To find a usable device, a laminate cutter test is therefore indispensable. There are two possible methods to reach this result. In one case the parquet is cut completely, in the other it is first cut and then split. You therefore have the choice between two different concepts for laminate cutters.

When dealing with both, the most important thing is to cut the laminate floor cleanly and accurately. Therefore, almost every model has a tape measure attached. This makes it possible to place the parquet in the cutting device exactly as you want to cut it. To work with a laminate cutter, some experience is also helpful, the first results may still be unsatisfactory or take longer than expected.

But with each cut laminate plank/vinyl plank/parquet rod, the work is faster and safer, and ultimately the quality of the work results will be more satisfactory.

What are the advantages of a laminate cutter?

These machines are partly operated manually and partly automatically, and they are designed to cut tiles from a wide range of materials. The aim is to enable parquet layers and other craftsmen who work on the floor to work as accurately as possible. In fact, it is usually advisable to work with a laminate cutter in addition to the usual tools such as chisels and spatulas.

Tile cutters or vinyl cutters can also be part of the floor laying equipment, if, for example, a new bathroom floor is to be laid.

Very often holes have to be drilled for pipe and cable laying or clearances have to be adjusted for obstacles such as heating pipes. Contributions will provide tips and share experiences in working with laminate cutters, so that interested parties can learn how these devices work and how best to work with them.

A parquet floor is not only versatile and visually appealing, but also convinces with its durability.

The decisive criterion for the service life is what thickness the parquet has.

An overview of the commercialstrengths and the different structure of parquet floors can be found in this article.

In which thicknesses is parquet available?

The thickness of the parquet depends on which parquet type it is.

Parquet is basically available in two versions, which differ fundamentally in their structure – and thus in their actual thickness – :

Solid parquet (one-layer parquet)

The classic solid parquet (also known as single-layer parquet) consists of a continuous layer of solid wood, which is first laid in its raw state fully glued over the entire surface and only then sanded and surface-treated.

The installation of solid wood parquet is on the one hand relatively costly and time-consuming, as the floor only becomes ready for use and walkable after several work steps. On the other hand, the thickness of the solid parquet also ensures particularly high resistance and durability.

Solid parquet is available in different thicknesses between 8 and 23 mm.

Due to its thickness, it can be sanded down several times in the course of renovation work .

If one assumes that hardwood flooring is in need of renovation every 10 to 15 years due to wear and damage and that approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface is removed per grinding process, solid hardwood flooring has a service life of several decades.

The most common variants of solid parquet floors and their strengths Are:

  • strip parquet:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • ship bottom:
    14 to 23 mm, can be sanded 5 – 7 times
  • mosaic parquet:
    8 to 10 mm, can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • lamp parquet:
    6 to 15 mm (standard: 10 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times
  • panel parquet:
    approx. 10 mm (occasionally up to 20 mm), can be sanded 4 – 5 times

Prefabricated parquet (multi-layer parquet)

In contrast to the solid parquet, finished or multi-layer parquet consists of several layers glued together.

It is already ready for installation and is surface-treated with a layer sealed by oil or varnish, so that it can be walked immediately after installation.

Finished parquet is available as 2-layer or 3-layer parquet. 2-layer parquet consists of a carrier material made of wood composite panels or cheap wood, which is glued to a wear layer of high-quality real wood.

3-layer parquet contains in addition to this a counter-layer – also made of wood or wood composites – which makes the floor even more stable.

Decisive for the quality of prefabricated parquet is the useful layer:

This consists of different types of wood and should have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm.

The principle applies here:

The higher the thickness of the useful layer of the parquet, the higher the quality of the floor and the higher its service life.

The total thickness of the parquet is therefore made up of the thickness of the of the carrier material and the useful layer. Commercially available prefabricated parquet has the following common strengths:

2-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 16 mm, wear layer 3 to 6 mm, can be sanded 2 – 3 times

3-layer hardwood flooring:

total thickness 10 to 25 mm, wear layer 3 to 8 mm, can be sanded 2 – 4 times

Special shape: veneer parquet

Veneer parquet is considered a special form of hardwood flooring, as it combines the special features of wood and laminate floors:

Precious wood veneers with a doctored, multi-coated surface are glued with water-resistant HDF support plates.

The total thickness of veneer parquet is also between 10 and 23 mm. But veneer parquet cannot be sanded down in any other way than the classic finished parquet because the wear layer is less than 1 mm thick.

What does the parquet strength have an effect on?

Strength plays a role in the selection of the parquet in several respects:

On the one hand, the acquisition costs are usually higher for thicker parquet, on the other hand, the strength has a significant impact on the life span of the floor, which in turn makes the investment quite worthwhile.

Parquet with a higher thickness not only withstands the daily stress better, but can also be sanded more often, which is important for carrying out renovation work.

Wear or damage to the parquet can be removed relatively easily by sanding. As a guideline, parquet floors should be renovated every 10 to 15 years and approx. 0.3 to 0.5 mm of the parquet surface should be removed per sanding operation.

The strength of the parquet is also relevant in terms of spatial conditions.

Parquet floors with less thickness are advantageous, for example, in rooms that require a lower height of the overall floor construction. But even in transitions, such as at door sills, the strength of the parquet can be decisive.

In addition, the thickness of the parquet – together with the type of wood used – also has an effect on the thermal resistance at underfloor heating systems. The higher the thickness of the parquet, the more sluggishly the underfloor heating reacts and the slower the room heats up. However, other factors also play a role here, such as the parquet adhesive.

Recommended repair sets in this article:

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Even the most robust parquet is not immune to damage.

Daily wear and tear or minor mishaps can quickly cause scratches, holes or dents in the parquet. Learn in this article how to best repair various damage in the parquet.

One of the great advantages of parquet is its durability and durability.

Nevertheless parquet is not indestructible. However, minor damage to hardwood flooring is usually relatively easy to repair without having to renovate the entire floor. How best to repair defects in hardwood flooring, depends on the type of damage.

Remove scratches in the parquet

Scratches in hardwood flooring are only an optical defect with waxed or oiled floors.

With lacquered parquet, on the other hand, the damaged surface sealant can cause damage in the long term if dirt or moisture penetrates under the protective layer.

To eliminate scratches in the parquet, there are various possibilities that achieve very good results depending on the depth of the scratches.

Superficial scratches or sanding marks in the parquet can be removed in most cases by polishing.

This method works for oiled or waxed parquet as well as for painted parquet.

For this purpose, furniture polish or repair wax or oil is applied to a soft, lint-free cloth and the scratch is rubbed in until it has disappeared.

However, it is important to note the material compatibility with the parquet, as the damaged areas can otherwise discolor when the agent penetrates into the wood.

Especially with painted parquet, the damaged area can also be easily sanded and then provided with a new layer of diluted lacquer. However, it will hardly be possible to repair the paint without transitions, which can be seen more or less depending on the light incidence.

Even with a walnut slight scratches in the parquet can be treated well. By rubbing the nut kernel into the surface, the scratch does not disappear completely, but it becomes much less visible. Suitable parquet maintenance also helps against small scratches in the floor.

In addition, there are also special Retouching pins in different colours, with which the scratches in the parquet can be concealed.

Repairing deep scratches and holes in the parquet

Major damage in the parquet, such as deep scratches or holes, can be easily filled with wooden putty.

To do this, the parquet must first be thoroughly cleaned with a parquet vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

In particular, the damaged site must be clean and completely dry before repair can begin. Subsequently, the wood putty is mixed accordingly, applied to the scratch or hole with a plastic spatula in several layers and smooth coated.

For an optimal colour result, sawdust matched to the parquet floor can be added to the wood putty. Once the wood putty is completely dried – the drying time is between 12 and 24 hours, depending on the product – the repaired area is sanded with sandpaper until the surface is as much as possible aligned with the rest of the parquet.

Eliminate damage in the parquet with repair kit

For deeper scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet, special parquet repair kits are also a good alternative.

These are available in different versions and price categories in DIY stores or specialist retailers.

The most significant difference with repair sets is the melting wax contained in them.

While the cheaper variants usually contain relatively soft melting wax, which deforms even at low temperatures – such as sunlight – , more expensive repair kits contain high-quality hard wax and are also available in numerous colour shades.

For such a professional parquet repair set, you can expect costs of about 100,- Euro. An investment that is, however, definitely worthwhile in view of the result.

To repair the damage in the parquet, the hard wax of the parquet repair set is heated and the scratch or hole is filled with it.

In order to get as close as possible to the wood structure, hard wax should be used in various shades of colour.

With some repair kits, the wax can also be mixed with a wood paste until the colour tone corresponds as closely as possible to that of the parquet. Scratches, cracks or holes in the parquet can then be filled with this compound. However, the wax is not suitable for filling joints in hardwood flooring. This is because the material is brittle and therefore unsuitable.

Remaining wax residues can then be removed with a plastic spatula or a plastic card. Finally, the repaired area is cleaned with a dry, soft cloth and re-treated with care products suitable for the respective parquet (polish, oil, sealing varnish).

Repair kits for parquet only achieve an optimal result if the damage in the floor is deep enough.

Because only if the macke in the parquet is correspondingly large, the filling with the hard wax gets the necessary support.

If the damage is too slight, it should therefore be extended accordingly with a cutter or similar tool if a repair set is used.

Remove dents in the parquet

If the parquet has a dent, it is sometimes sufficient to moisten it.

Due to the moisture, the parquet swells slightly and the dent is removed.

With more stubborn dents, the iron can also help: Simply place a damp cloth on the appropriate place and gently slide over it with the hot iron.

Thus, the moisture from the hot water vapor can penetrate even better into the wood, the parquet expands and the dent disappears again.

However, this method requires very careful handling to prevent the parquet from swelling too much due to excessive moisture.

In addition, especially in the case of lacquered hardwood flooring, you should test in advance on an inconspicuous spot whether the lacquer can withstand the high temperatures of the iron without damage.

If the dents have been caused by water damage, the dents are Repair, however, is not so easy. In this case, the special procedures for the elimination of water damage.

Partially replace the parquet

If a damage cannot be repaired by the various repair methods, hardwood flooring also offers the possibility of replacing individual elements. To do this, the damaged parquet is either cut out with a chisel, for example, or a single plank is removed and replaced with a suitably adapted, new element.

Partial replacement of parquet is particularly advantageous if there is loose parquet, for example because the parquet adhesive has come loose or the click system is damaged.

Grinding the parquet

In the case of extensive or more serious damage, it may be necessary to sand down the parquet in the course of repair.

With the exception of untreated parquet, this is also partially possible in most cases. However, it should be borne in mind that the sanded area will always differ from the rest of the floor, as the parquet changes its color over time.

Corresponding color differences between repaired and original parquet should therefore be compensated so that the repair is as little visible as possible.

This is often possible by treating the surface with polish, oil or sealing wax. However, if this is not the case, the entire parquet floor must ultimately be sanded down. In places subject to heavy loads, e.g. in offices under the desk, you should always use a floor protection mat.

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In order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and well-kept hardwood flooring for as long as possible, regular cleaning and care is essential.

For dry cleaning of hardwood flooring, vacuum cleaners are the ideal tool.

You can find out what is important for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet and which products are available on the market in this article.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (with cable):

Dry clean parquet: Vacuum cleaner vs. breviews

Parquet is robust and easy to care for – but it is still not possible without regular cleaning.

For the daily removal of superficial dirt, dry cleaning is usually sufficient. Best with a vacuum cleaner.

Because of the material condition of the parquet, dust and dirt do not stick to the surface, but lie only loosely on top.

While the dust is partly only stirred up by sweeping with a broom, in order to settle again throughout the room, dust and dirt particles are removed more thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner.

However, there are a few things to consider when using vacuum cleaners for parquet.

Best vacuum cleaner for parquet: criteria and Requirements

The range of vacuum cleaners for parquet is varied – numerous manufacturers offer a wide variety of models in all price ranges.

Among the most well-known and popular vacuum cleaner manufacturers are:

  • Dyson
  • Miele
  • Bosch
  • Siemens
  • Philips
  • Rowenta
  • Aeg
  • and many more

In order to facilitate the decision, it is advisable to to pay attention to different characteristics from the trade mark:

Suction

An essential criterion in the search for the optimal vacuum cleaner for parquet is its suction power.

On the one hand, a high suction effect reduces the time required for cleaning, as the dust is already sucked in from a greater distance and even larger dirt particles, such as stones or crumbs, disappear quickly and reliably in the vacuum cleaner.

On the other hand, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power is also more versatile and is therefore also suitable for use on tiles and carpet in addition to parquet. In addition, a vacuum cleaner with high suction power also reduces the risk of dirt getting caught in the brush and causing scratches in the hardwood flooring.

The best vacuum cleaners for parquet (without cable):

Floor nozzle

The use of a suitable nozzle is essential for a gentle suction process on parquet.

This should be geared to the texture of the parquet and have a dense, soft brush that glides easily and without loss of suction force over the parquet. Commercially available vacuum cleaners are usually equipped with a universal nozzle, in which the brush can be folded in or out depending on the floor covering.

These have the advantage that they can be used for vacuuming both parquet and tiles or carpets.

In some cases, special parquet nozzles are also available for the vacuum cleaner, which have been specially adapted to the requirements of hardwood flooring and have a soft, large-area insert (e.g. made of felt or natural hair). However, these are rarely included in the scope of delivery of the vacuum cleaner, but can be retrofitted in addition to the normal nozzle.

Wheels

Most vacuum cleaners have wheels that pull them through the room. If these wheels block, e.g. by a wedged stone, scratches or scratches can occur in the parquet. Therefore, when purchasing a vacuum cleaner for parquet, attention should be paid to the quality of the wheels, axles and bearings.

Rubber wheels are gentler for the parquet and leave fewer traces than plastic wheels. In addition, the wheels should have as large a diameter as possible and be easily pulled by manoeuvrable joints.

Weight

Basically, the weight of the vacuum cleaner for parquet is rather incidental – much more important is the quality and the execution of the wheels. However, when vacuuming on multiple floors or stairs, the weight can affect ease of use.

Volume

Even the volume of the vacuum cleaner hardly affects whether the vacuum cleaner is suitable for parquet. In view of the fact that however, it makes it possible for the user to there is quite a difference in the noise he makes when vacuuming parquet exposed.

Different types of vacuum cleaners for parquet

Whether floor vacuum cleaners, hand vacuum cleaners or vacuum cleaners, whether Cable or battery, with bag or without – in principle there is for every type of vacuum cleaner Models suitable for parquet.

Vacuum cleaner

The classic among vacuum cleaners for parquet scores points with its consistently high suction force. Strong motors ensure that dust and Dirt reliably disappear. Floor vacuum cleaners are available with different technologies:

With conventional floor vacuum cleaners – such as the Bosch BGL35MON13, the Siemens VS06B1110 or the Miele S 8340 PowerLine – the dirt is sucked into a bag that needs to be replaced regularly.

In contrast, bagless cyclone vacuum cleaners – such as the Philips FC9332/09 PowerPro Compact or the Dyson Big Ball Parquet 2 – transport dust and dirt particles directly into the collecting container through air and rotation.

This eliminates follow-up costs for new vacuum cleaner bags and also reduces the loss of suction power.

Alternatively, vacuum cleaners for parquet are also available, which by the use of water filters for a dust-free exhaust air during the suction process example of this is the Kärcher DS 6.

Hand vacuum cleaner

Wireless cordless vacuum cleaners – such as the Dyson V11 absolute – rely on space-saving compactness – suction tube and motor form a unit, there is no housing that needs to be pulled behind. In addition, they can be used flexibly, as they do not need to be connected to the power supply. To the face of the battery life limited operating time and the heavier weight that is dust ing in your hand.

Suction robots

vacuum cleaners robots are particularly convenient because they vacuum the parquet floor independently. However, the purchase costs are also much higher than for conventional vacuum cleaners for hardwood flooring.

Which product is ultimately most convincing often depends on your personal preferences. Because every vacuum cleaner for parquet has its advantages and disadvantages, as can be seen from various product tests and comparisons.

Tips and tricks for vacuuming parquet

  • Choose a vacuum cleaner for parquet that best meets your requirements. If you have parquet floors and tiles or parquet and carpet in your home, the vacuum cleaner should be as universally usable as possible.
  • Use only a floor nozzle that is suitable for use on parquet.
  • When sucking parquet, be sure to fold out the brush with a universal nozzle. This way, you not only prevent scratches, but also the dust is sucked in directly and not – as would be the case with a flattened nozzle – just pushed over the ground.
  • Make sure that the nozzle does not bend and that there is no coarse dirt (e.g. stones or sand) in the brush that could scratch the parquet.
  • Check the wheels of the parquet vacuum cleaner regularly for their functionality before suction. Dirt should always be removed immediately to avoid streaks or damage in the parquet.
  • Avoid the vacuum cleaner tipping over on the parquet floor – it not only interferes with the operation, but can also lead to damage.
  • Always remove desk chair pads and carpets before vacuuming. In the peripheral areas of these, dirt often accumulates that would otherwise not be removed properly.
  • For floor vacuum cleaners that need to be plugged into the power outlet, make sure that they have a sufficiently long cable or are replugged accordingly. This not only facilitates vacuuming, but also prevents the vacuum cleaner from being pushed sideways over the parquet floor, leaving traces on the parquet floor.
  • For cordless vacuum cleaners for parquet, keep in mind that the device must be charged continuously to be ready for use at all times.

parquet is a robust and durable floor covering. Nevertheless, it can happen that a new floor is desired in the course of renovation or remodelling and laminate is chosen. The question then arises as to the correct procedure for laying laminate on hardwood flooring.

Which parquet is suitable as a substrate for laminate?

In general, it should be noted that laminate can not be laid on every type of parquet.

Only fully glued parquet is suitable as a subfloor for the new floor – in this case there is nothing to prevent direct installation.

Laying laminate on floating parquet is not recommended. In this case the parquet should first be completely removed before the new floor can be laid.

What should be considered when laying laminate on parquet?

Apart from the fact that the parquet must be fully glued, there are a number of other factors involved in the laying of laminate must be taken into account on parquet:

Just like the screed when laying a new floor, the parquet must be clean, dry and level before the laminate can be laid on it. Larger unevenness should be levelled in advance by sanding or filling with levelling compound. However, minor unevenness of approx. 1 to 2 mm can usually be compensated with a impact sound insulation for parquet .

The impact sound insulation is highly recommended for laminate on parquet because the combination of the two floor coverings would otherwise be very noisy.

Moisture-permeable insulating materials such as cork or cardboard are suitable. It is even easier if a laminate with integrated footfall sound insulation is used.

A vapour barrier, on the other hand, should not be used for laminate parquet always. Parquet is a wooden floor that absorbs or releases moisture. This could easily cause waterlogging under the PVC film, which would result in permanent damage to the floor.

In order to achieve more stability of the floor, the laminate should be laid crosswise to the existing parquet. It should be noted, however, that light incidence can cause a changed joint pattern.

The use of click laminate is recommended, as this is not only relatively easy to install without expert help, but can also be removed again without leaving any residue, as it does not have to be glued.

Since laminate expands and contracts again with temperature fluctuations, expansion joints should be taken into account when laying laminate on hardwood flooring. This gives the floor the necessary clearance without causing undesirable joint formation or dents.

If laminate is laid on hardwood flooring, this changes the construction height, or thickness of the flooring. It may therefore be necessary to shorten door frames or leaves accordingly. Height differences at transitions can be laminated with profiles.

Berlin profile

Hamburg profile

Maple skirting board

Beech skirting board

Oak skirting board

Grey skirting board

Walnut skirting board

Walnut skirting board

White skirting boards

The color of your base

To find the right bar for your floor, it’s best to look at some patterns in direct comparison. The color plays a very important role in the selection. Thus, the skirting board can be selected e.g. in the color of the floor. In small rooms, however, this can quickly have a narrowing effect.

A skirting board in the color of the wall (usually white), on the other hand, makes a room look wider (more generous than any other option).

The shape of the skirting boards

The shape of the footboard is a far underestimated factor when it comes to the spatial effect. Both the “style” of your bar and the width of the bar can greatly change the spatial effect.

For example, everyone can immediately recognise the typical skirting boards used for laminate flooring in the low-cost sector. Such a skirting board should never be laid to a high-quality parquet floor.

Traditionally contrazy & no-frills

In most cases, people find traditional profiles, such as the ones described below (Berliner & Hamburger Profile) to be more suitable when it is a plank floor with a rustic effect. Modern floorboards or prefabricated parquet with chamfer / emphasis on the plank look, on the other hand, are usually provided with a simple, white skirting board.

Find the right skirting boards

When selecting the bars, it is important that the cover width is sufficient to cover the edge joint of the parquet. In the case of solid parquet, the edge joint may have been chosen relatively large as a preventive measure due to the swelling and shrinkage behaviour of the wood. In most cases, a width of at least 20 mm must be maintained. A width of just under 16 mm is usually sufficient for finished parquet.

The purpose of a skirting board

Skirting boards should usually cover the joint between the floor and the wall. For wood and laminate floors, this joint is usually up to 15mm – quite a lot. In addition, the skirting board should of course protect the wall from damage during parquet maintenance. It is not for nothing that the noble pieces used to be called “scrubbing bars”.

Massive or veneer skirting boards?

A distinction is also made between solid and veneered skirtings. Both are made of real wood, whereby the “veneer version” is somewhat cheaper due to the low hardwood content. Both variants can be either nailed or mounted with screws. Most skirting boards available as standard oak plinth and beech plinth variants. Always worth considering are aluminium skirtings and the variants listed below.

Possible shapes of your new skirting board

Below we have listed a short overview of the other possible skirting board profiles. Profiles such as the Berliner profile or the Hamburger profile appear to be of the highest quality. Both are available in natural colours as well as in white. The “Berliner” but also the “Hamburger” profile are completely different in their appearance from conventional bases.
In the past they were used in villas, castles and mansions.

Today, these “beautifully ornate” profiles can also be found in old apartments in city centres. The style is particularly suitable for wooden floors such as the plank pattern. Of course, we also have simple profiles in our program, which do not stand out optically and simply cover the edge joint.

Baseboards made of solid wood

The advantage of solid wood skirting boards is their natural appearance. Baseboards made of solid wood also contain once “wilder” areas of wood grain. Thus, a solid bar made of beech wood can also contain very dark stripes or even small branch holes. In contrast to veneered or even “foiled” skirting boards, the massive design also fits rustic floors, which by nature already seem more “uneasy”.

Why solid wood base should be screwed

However, a solid wood footboard tends to change its shape slightly. Just like any piece of wood, the solid skirting board changes its dimensions in the event of fluctuations in humidity. Therefore, they should always be mounted with plugs & screws. This requires a little more effort during assembly, but is the better solution in the long term.

Sockets made of MDF / HDF

The cheapest option is to buy MDF, HDF skirtings. These are pressed wood fibres, which are covered with a foil. Just like laminate floors, the film has the look of a wooden surface. Because only fibres and not whole wooden slats are required for production, this type of skirting board is particularly favourable.

Advantages of plinths & skirting boards made of MDF

]MDF sockets convince not only by their low price. Since they are not made of solid wood, they do not change their dimensions like solid wood. They can therefore be easily fixed with nails or wire pins in the wall. As they are also very flexible, they are also suitable for bridging or laminating slight unevenness in the soil. To do this, simply bend the groin over the floor shaft in question and fix it in the wall at the same time with nails.

Disadvantages of MDF skirting boards

The only known drawback of MDF strips is that the film can easily burst in case of damage. This occurs, for example, when the skirting board is fastened with nails and the hammer slips off. However, it can also happen in hindsight that, for example, a cat or other pets damage the groin with its claws.

MDF Laminate Skirting boards

MDF skirting boards actually come from the laminate manufacturing sector, as they are based on the same material. MDF laminate skirting boards can, however, also be used on parquet floors without hesitation. Only with very “wild” grades with many knots or stripes, the artificial grain of an MDF strip could look unsuitable. For example, if you decide on white bases, this problem does not occur.

Interesting facts about aluminium skirting boards

Aluminium (aluminium) skirting boards are often installed in representative buildings, e.g. bank houses, insurance companies, etc.

Alu footboards also fit perfectly with high-quality parquet floors or epoxy resin floors. The matte appearance of the aluminium strip harmonizes e.g. with the matt surface of an oiled walnut floor.

Important for the assembly of aluminium skirting boards

Alu skirting boards cannot be mounted like ordinary bases. Neither the screwing nor the assembly with nails is possible. Therefore, aluminium skirting boards are mounted with a special “underrail”. This is used for snapping the actual skirting board and is screwed onto the wall beforehand. Then you just click the bar on the rail. You also have to do things differently when cutting the aluminium strips. A special saw blade should be installed in the “cut/miter saw” so that clean cuts succeed and the saw blade does not become blunt. The substrate should also be particularly flat, as real aluminium is not so easy to bend. In old buildings, therefore, better attention should be paid to “hybrid” solutions.

The “Hybrid” – wooden base with aluminium optics

Alu skirting boards are available on wood as a kind of mixed product. This is a deceptively real replica of aluminium, which is pulled over a wooden base as a foil. The advantage: Both the assembly by means of nails/screws as well as the sawing with a normal wood saw blade are possible. In addition, the price is much more attractive than with “real” aluminium skirting boards.

Assemble skirting boards correctly

Because there are various possibilities for the assembly of skirting boards, which do not always have to be suitable in your case, we have described here the most well-known methods.

Mounting skirting boards screwed – Quick Start Guide

The screwed mounting of skirting boards is widely used and very popular, especially because of its durability. In the event of a renovation, the strips can be easily removed and, for example, reassembled without complications after painting. For this, the assembly is a little more complex than, for example, the attachment with nails.

First, the skirting board is cut to the right angle with a miter saw or “crosscut saw”. Then you mark the punch marks at regular intervals. The distance between the holes should always be about 50-60 cm. If too little distance is left, the optics are impaired – if one leaves too much distance, the skirting board is usually not uniform everywhere.

Mounting skirting boards with nails – Quick Start Guide

The much simpler method is the assembly with nails or “wire pins”. Here, after cutting, simply press the skirting board to the wall and put on a nail. The nail is now driven through the groin. One should set tighter distances than with the screwed assembly. A nail should be attached approximately every 20 cm.

If you are not yet so experienced with a hammer and nails, you can also simply place the groin on a hard surface and put all nails on already, or drive some milimeters into the skirting board. This makes the subsequent installation on the wall much easier, because the nail can no longer slip off.

Video: Attach skirting boards with nails

Whether parquet, carpet or laminate – excessive load is not good for the floor.

Especially at workplaces with desk and office chair, the floor is heavily stressed.

A floor protection mat as a chair mat prevents damage and protects the floor covering.

Office chair pads – the optimal floor protection

Desk chairs with castors can quickly leave marks on the floor – carpets are rubbed off, hard floors such as parquet or laminate are defaced by scratches or nicks.

Floor protection mats should therefore not be missing under any office chair, as parquet savers or carpet protectors offer effective protection against damage.

Office chair pads are available in a wide variety of designs, colours, sizes and materials.

Which floor saver is best suited depends on several criteria:

On which floor ingesenator is the floor protection used?

There is the right protective mat for every floor.

The offer includes floor protection mats for carpet as well as floor protection mats for hard flooring and parquet.

The surfaces all have a non-slip underside, the surface is often even coated with an antibacterial coating, so that dirt and bacteria have no chance.

Floor protection mats for carpet

As a chair pad for textile floor coverings, the special carpet floor protection mats are equipped with blunt anchor tops on the underside of the mat. These ensure a secure grip so that the protective mat cannot slip.

How long the anchors should be depends on the height of the carpet.

Thanks to the carpet saver, the carpet is neither flattened nor soiled by the rollers of the desk chair and the floor remains beautiful for longer.

Soil protection mats for hard flooring

Hard floors include flooring such as wood, parquet, laminate, tiles, stone, PVC, vinyl and cork.

In contrast to floor protection mats for carpets, floor protectors for hard floors do not have bumps, but have a special non-slip profile.

It is smooth and protects the floor without the underlay slipping.

Floor protection mats for parquet

Hard-floor office chair mats are also suitable as parquet savers.

Its smooth underside has proven to be parquet protection.

The protective mats not only prevent scratches or sanding marks, but also protect the parquet from stains and moisture in case something falls to the floor.

Which material is used as a chair pad for the respective application?

Soil protection mats can be made of different materials, all of which have certain properties and advantages.

Apart from the flooring, personal preferences and requirements for the office chair base are also decisive for the material decision.

PET (polyethylene terephthalate)

Pet floor savers are partly made from recycled bottles and are therefore environmentally friendly.

They also score points for their durability and are highly translucent. They have an effect footfall sound insulation and are also suitable for use on underfloor heating systems.

Polypropylene

Also suitable for underfloor heating and in addition odourless and skin-friendly are floor protection mats made of polypropylene.

They withstand high loads, are scratch-resistant and water-repellent.

Polycarbonate

Due to the properties of polycarbonate, desk chair pads made of this material have a very long service life.

They are not only extremely resilient and hard-wearing, but also resistant to weather, heat and radiation. Also plasticizers or solvents are not contained in these mats.

Natural rubber

Floor protection mats made of the renewable raw material natural rubber are water-repellent and very elastic. The material is also tear-resistant and has an antistatic effect.

What shape or colour should the floor protection mat have?

Due to different designs and colours, the office chair underlay can become quite an eye-catcher.

Those who attach importance to discreet floor protection are well advised with transparent chair documents.

They are barely visible and still offer the desired effect.

The form of the office chair pad depends primarily on the arrangement of the desk.

It is important that the shape of the floor protection mat covers the entire workplace as far as possible.

Lips on the mats provide additional protection against wetness and dirt on shoe soles.

How big should the underlay be?

Like the shape, the size of the desk chair underlay depends on the workstation.

In accordance with the workplace regulation, the freedom of movement must be at least 1.5 m2.

With regard to the dimensions of the floor protection mat, the larger the floor protection.

In addition to the standard sizes, many manufacturers also offer custom-made floor savers.

Attaching and cleaning floor protection mats

In order to protect the floor effectively and sustainably, care must be taken to properly attach the office chair pad.

For floor protection mats for carpets, the smooth side represents the surface, the toped side represents the underside.

In contrast, floor protection mats for hard floors or floor protection mats for parquet have the smooth side at the bottom and the rough side at the top.

The cleaning of floor savers is best done with pure water and subsequent re-drying with a soft cloth.

In the case of heavy contamination, household general-purpose cleaners can be added, sharp or corrosive agents as well as alcohol- and salmiak-holding cleaners should be dispensed with altogether.

As a natural floor covering made of wood, parquet has many advantages. However, its naturalness also has an effect in that the parquet works. So in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful and intact parquet floor in the long term, expansion joints must be taken into account. In the following you will find out how to proceed best in this respect when laying parquet parquet .

Elongation joints at parquet – why?

Parquet is made of wood and wood works.

In the event of temperature fluctuations or changes in humidity, parquet reacts accordingly with swells and dwindling. This means that it expands depending on the room conditions and pulls back together.

In order to give the parquet the necessary leeway, expansion joints must be observed as soon as they are laid, as they compensate for the spring and shrinkage behaviour of the parquet.

In addition, appropriate expansion joints ensure reduced sound transmission and therefore additionally optimise the result of the required impact sound insulation.

Where do you need expansion joints for parquet?

In the first place, expansion joints must be taken into account when laying parquet in the edge areas of the room.

The basic rule is a wall distance of at least 2 mm per metre of floor – so if the room is 4 m wide, 8 mm expansion joint is required.

With the usually recommended distance of 10 to 15 mm one is on the safe side in rooms of average size, in very large rooms the expansion joint should be correspondingly wider.

From a room dimension of 8 m width and 12 m length, an additional expansion joint is required by leaving out a gap between the parquet elements.

If an elongation joint is already included in the screed, one must also be inserted in the same place in the parquet.

It is well known that parquet all around requires expansion joints on the walls.

However, expansion joints for parquet must be taken into account not only where, but also in other places, where the floor can encounter immovable elements.

These include door frames, stairs, radiator pipes, end profiles e.g. for transitions to other floor coverings and much more.

In the case of heavy furniture, such as kitchens or built-in cupboards, it is advisable to install them before laying the hardwood flooring and then take into account the corresponding expansion joint under the plinth.

If this is not possible, the hardwood flooring under the built-in furniture on the other side requires twice the distance to the wall, as it can only work in one direction.

Is there a difference between bonded and floating laid parquet?

Expansion joints are always necessary for all hardwood flooring, regardless of whether it is glued over the entire surface or installed as a floating installation.

The difference, however, is that glued parquet works less, as it is fixed to the subfloor.

The smallest extent occurs with glued floorparquet, as it is not only connected to the screed, but the material is also glued transversely to each other.

Correspondingly, the expansion joints may be smaller when the parquet is glued, depending on the recommended manufacturer’s instructions. Even with head joints, less distance is sufficient, as the hardwood flooring unfolds its greatest expansion in width here.

Different, on the other hand, with floating parquet. Here, the parquet panels are only loosely laid on the substrate and accordingly have high spring and shrinkage behaviour.

Therefore, in this case, it is strongly advisable to maintain a greater distance in the expansion joints.

What happens if parquet has no expansion joints?

If parquet is laid without paying attention to the correspondingly large expansion joints, the wood cannot work sufficiently.

The parquet panels collide when they are expanded or stand by fixed room elements and begin to bulge.

This not only looks ugly, but can even lead to permanent damage to the parquet.

For example, when individual parquet panels break out of the gluing or the click system breaks.

Floating parquet can still bulge even if the ground is only on one side.

If no expansion joints have been adhered to as part of the parquet laying, you can also install them afterwards.

This involves a certain amount of effort, but it is always worthwhile compared to the inconvenience of a damaged parquet.

Tips for erecting expansion joints

Observance of expansion joints is particularly challenging for laymen.

The use of spacers, which are placed between the wall and the parquet when laying and removed after the laying work has been completed, has therefore proved to be successful.

This ensures that a uniform expansion joint is maintained. In commercially available laying sets for parquet, such wedges or blocks are usually already included or can be retrofitted in the DIY store.

For protection – and of course also because of the more attractive appearance – the expansion joints can be covered accordingly at the end: With skirting boards in the wall areas, rails or profiles at transitions or doors or pipe rosettes or similar covers for heating pipes etc.

Of course, expansion joints can also be filled with joint sealing compound. Here, however, it is essential to ensure that it is a suitable, permanently elastic material, otherwise the parquet will not be able to work.